Post #451 made 14 years ago
Henry22 wrote:I am using a 7.5 gallon aluminum kettle on a turkey frier burner with standard ale pail fermenters (6.5 gallons I believe).

Kind of confused as to how I should go about doing this. I cant fit all the necessary water and the grains in my kettle so should I mash in a regular cooler, drain that off, sparge in the cooler, drain and then boil?

Thanks

Henry22,

Your right not enough room. I have brewed this recipe for patersbier 3 or 4 times. I would just fill the pot with enough water so that you have enough for a safe boil. Sparge (rinse) into another vessel (bucket?) and then fill the pot to near full. You need about 7.5 gallons to boil down to 5. You can always add water near the end of the boil as long as it gets boiled too! The beer gets better as it mellows. good luck with that!
Last edited by BobBrews on 10 Feb 2012, 02:47, edited 9 times in total.
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Post #452 made 14 years ago
BobBrews wrote:
Henry22 wrote:I am using a 7.5 gallon aluminum kettle on a turkey frier burner with standard ale pail fermenters (6.5 gallons I believe).

Kind of confused as to how I should go about doing this. I cant fit all the necessary water and the grains in my kettle so should I mash in a regular cooler, drain that off, sparge in the cooler, drain and then boil?

Thanks

Henry22,

Your right not enough room. I have brewed this recipe for patersbier 3 or 4 times. I would just fill the pot with enough water so that you have enough for a safe boil. Sparge (rinse) into another vessel (bucket?) and then fill the pot to near full. You need about 7.5 gallons to boil down to 5. You can always add water near the end of the boil as long as it gets boiled too! The beer gets better as it mellows. good luck with that!
Thanks, Ill use my bottling bucket to sparge in. What should the sparge water be? Same temp as mash temp?
Last edited by Henry22 on 10 Feb 2012, 04:10, edited 9 times in total.

Post #453 made 14 years ago
henry22,
I don't think it matters. I would suppose that warm or hot would rinse the grains better but.... My water is usually cold or at least air temperature, alright that's cold. Anyway I would place a colander or something in the bucket to keep the spent grains off the bottom of the bucket. I would then dump enough water over them to bring my pre-boil water to where I wanted it. That means a inch above the temperature probe. That gives me 7.5 gallons to boil away until I get to and inch or so below my temperature probe. That fills my No chill cube about right.

I do a lot of "guess-timation" because I was given good looks and personality instead of the ability to use numbers. PP was given numbers!
tap 1 Raspberry wine
tap 2 Bourbon Barrel Porter
tap 3 Czech Pilsner
tap 4 Triple IPA 11% ABV

Pipeline: Mulled Cider 10% ABV

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Post #454 made 14 years ago
Hi henry22
I've done a couple of maxi BIAB's - a BAIB with a sparge (or two). I've always boiled my sparge water (in a separate pot), dumped it in the "sparge bucket" and just put the bag & grains in bucket and stir it every now and then for about 10 - 15 minutes. Not an exact science but it's worked pretty well for me. Oh, please read here in order to get an idea of the sparge volumes/aditions.

Cheers,
Lambert

PS: I've heard a broadcast featuring BobBrews today. I think people who brew on frozen lakes don't bother with temperatures. They TELL the grain at which temperature it WILL sparge. :lol: :lol: :lol: . Respect.
Last edited by lambert on 10 Feb 2012, 09:11, edited 9 times in total.
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Post #455 made 14 years ago
BobBrews wrote:I do a lot of "guess-timation" because I was given good looks and personality instead of the ability to use numbers. PP was given numbers!
:lol:

Don't listen to Bob on temperatures Henry. This "ice lake brewer" brews in temperatures of around -20 C (-4 F). Boiling point to him is probably like a warm shower for us normal brewers :lol:. Here's the numbers ;)...

Like lambert said above, you can usually pretty much boil your sparge water. By the time you get it mixed with the grain, you'll be lucky (depending on how much you use) for the whole mash to reach 78 C (172 F) which is the highest mash-out temperature. The water you are adiing quickly drops in temperature as the grain has usually cooled by a considerable degree from squeezing etc. However...

If you wanted to pull your bag from your main kettle at 78 C and then immediately dump it into another bucket that contains your sparge water, then you would also have the water in the second bucket at 78C as there will be little/no heat loss from your grain during the transfer.

Long but hopefully it makes some sense :dunno:,
PP
Last edited by PistolPatch on 10 Feb 2012, 18:14, edited 9 times in total.
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Post #456 made 14 years ago
Hey all, need a hand converting this recipe to 10L.

Coopers Best Extra Stout clone (from Szamatulski's clone brews):

4.1 British 2-row pale malt
240g 120L crystal malt
283g roasted barley
170g chocolate malt

steep at 66.2C for 90 mins

Add 9.2 HBU Pride of Ringwood and .57g cane sugar for 90mins of the boil

Add 14g Styrian Goldings at 15mins

Wyeast 1084 Irish ale yeast.

OG 1.066 - 1.067
IBU 41
SRM 87
ABV 6.8%
FG 1.013- 1.014

Thanks in advance!
Bek

Post #457 made 14 years ago
Hi there Bek,

Started to do this for you last night and got distracted. Will post it up when I get home from work.

Cheers,
PP
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Post #459 made 14 years ago
Okay Bek, have copied the scaled recipe below.

Usually I try and explain things a bit but I never have enough time lately sorry :roll:. Here's a few quick things though that might help...

1. When you wanted the recipe converted to 10 L, it's hard to know exactly what you mean. Sometimes brewers say I want a 10 L batch. This is meaningless as they might mean 'Volume into Packaging (VIP), Volume into Fermentor (VIF) or End of Boil Volume (EOBV). It 's a great habit to develop being really clear in your terminology. (Never use the word 'batch' when talking recipe conversion ;)).

2. I've assumed you meant VIP but let me know if I am wrong. It is a one second job to change this.

3. I've chosen AA% for the hops to reflect the current crops so what you buy shold be pretty close to these AA%. Note that HBU's means ounces by AA%. So in the original recipe, 9.2 HBU's means that if their Pride of Ringwood hops were 9.2% they would have added one ounce or 28 grams. (I'm not too sure why they didn't use the same logic on the original recipe for the Goldings although as you get to the end of the boil, weight matters a bit more than AA% does.)

4. As the recipe contained sugar, I had to play around with this a little as the current BIABacsu Beta does not handle sugar. So, forget the percentages below and concentrate on the weights instead.

5. I have assumed an evaporation rate of 2.98 litres an hour like last time. I've also assumed some other losses that you'll see in the report below. See if you can start to take a few measurements on your brews so as we can get more accurate with these estimates etc.

6. This beer's efficiency into kettle is lower than your last brew as the recipe has a higher original gravity - it's a bigger beer

Hope that's at least something for you. Let me know if you want anything changed - as mentioned, changing things only takes a sec.

Here you go and :luck:,
PP

BIABacus RECIPE REPORT
***********************
The Recipe Designer, Calculator and Scaler for BIAB Brewers
(The BIABacus will be available from http://www.biabrewer.info" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;)

Coopers Best Extra Stout Clone (Batch 1) - Stout Foreign Extra (13D)
Brewer: Stoutgirl
Original Recipe by: Szamatulskis Clone Brews

Equipment, Efficiencies and Losses
-------------------------------------
Equipment: 18.38 Litre Kettle with a diameter of 30 cm (Evaporation Rate:2.98 l/Hr)
Efficiencies: 77.9% Efficiency into Kettle (EIK) and 66.8% Efficiency into Fermentor (EIF)
Kettle to Fermentor Losses = 1.8 Litres - Fermentor to Packaging Losses = 0.8 Litres

Gravities and Volumes
------------------------------
Total liquor (water) = 19.09 Litres
Volume of Mash (assuming a full-volume BIAB) = 21.79 Litres
Pre-Boil Volume and Pre-Boil Gravity = 17.59 Litres at 1.050
End of Boil Volume (before chilling) and End of Boil Gravity (or OG) = 13.12 Litres at 1.067
Volume into Fermentor and Original Gravity (OG) = 10.8 Litres at 1.067
Volume into Packaging (Bottles/Keg) and Final Gravity (FG) = 10 Litres at 1.016

Mashing and Boiling
---------------------------------
Single Infusion Mash at 66.2˚C for 90 minutes.
Boil for 90 minutes.

The Grain Bill (Original Gravity 1.0665)
---------------------------------------
2953.17 g or 84.29% Pale Ale Malt - 2 Row
172.87 g or 4.93% Crystal 120
203.84 g or 5.82% Roasted Barley
122.45 g or 3.5% Chocolate Malt
40.80 g or 1.46% Cane Sugar

The Hop Bill (BBTinseth IBU's - 43.2)
-----------------------------------
21.68 g or 40 IBU's Pride of Ringwood Pellets (9.2%) at 90mins.
10.79 g or 3.2 IBU's Styrian Goldings (Austria/Slovenia) Pellets (3.4%) at 15mins.

Yeast, Fermentation, Carbonation and Conditioning Details (ABV = 6.52%)
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Yeast Choice: Wyeast 1084
Ferment for 10 days at 18 ˚Celsius

Bulk prime with 48.43Grams of Table Sugar
Carbonate at 18˚Celsius for 14 days or Crash Chill at 1˚Celsius for 4 days and then transfer to keg.
Carbonate to 2.3 Volumes CO2.
This beer is best consumed between 0 days and 12 mths after carbonation.
Serving Temperature: 6˚C
Last edited by PistolPatch on 16 Feb 2012, 20:25, edited 9 times in total.
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Post #460 made 14 years ago
Thanks for the help PP,
Sorry PP, i did mean 10L in the fermentor (VIF),
I remembered to take a pre boil gravity on the last brew,but forgot about the post boil.
I have never really understood HBU's and i am terrible at maths! So thanks for the conversion.

Thanks always for the help PP!

Bek

Post #461 made 14 years ago
Hello all, I'm new here. I'm gonna do my first biab this weekend. I plan to use this recipe since I have most all of the stuff. I'm going to alter it a bit to suit my ingredients and I'll explain how. The original recipe is at http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f66/bee-cav ... ale-31793/.

"Recipe Type: All Grain
Yeast: Nottingham
Yeast Starter: Nope
Additional Yeast or Yeast Starter: Nope
Batch Size (Gallons): 5.5
Original Gravity: 1.051
Final Gravity: 1.011
IBU: 39
Boiling Time (Minutes): 60
Color: 5 SRM
Primary Fermentation (# of Days & Temp): 10 Days at 68 degrees



This is my Haus Pale Ale. A very quaffable beer that is very easy to make using basic ingredients and a dry yeast.

Grain Bill
8 lbs. 2-Row Pale Malt
2 lbs. Vienna Malt
0.5 lb. Crystal 10L Malt

Mash
Single Infusion mash for 60 minutes at 152 degrees.
I batch sparge in a 10 gallon water cooler with a stainless braid manifold. Click here for great info on Batch Sparging.
Dough-in with 3.5 gallons of water. After 60 minutes, add 5 quarts of 175 degree water and begin vorlauf. My system only takes about 2 quarts before it clears up, then it's wide open to drain in the kettle. Have another 3.25 gallons of 175 degree water ready for the next batch sparge. You should then get 6.5 gallons to your kettle for the boil.


Boil & Hops
1.0 oz Cascade 6.6% at 60 min.
0.5 oz. Cascade 6.6% at 30 min.
0.25 oz. Cascade 6.6% at 15 min.
0.25 oz. Cascade 6.6% at 5 min.

Chill to 70 to 75 degrees

Pitch with Nottingham Dry Yeast. No starter or hydration. Update! With the Nottingham shortage, Safale -05 is a great substitute and will make a great beer too. Very similar."

I am using a 15 gallon keggle with a 12 inch top hole. Boiling over propane turkey fryer. My fermenters available are another keggle (lots of beer could be made in this), two 5.5 gal carboys, and three 6 gallon buckets. I'm just doing 5 gal tho since this is my first batch.

I plan to alter the recipe to use crystal 60 instead of crystal 10. (I don't have any 10 handy) I'm also going to use WLP001 yeast. With a starter.

Thanks in Advance
Wes

Post #462 made 14 years ago
[EDIT: Sorry Wes. Didn't see your post until now. Will try and have a look tomorrow unless someone beats me to it :salute:]

No problems at all Bek. I'll post the correction below and have a little ramble as well ;).

I often write about numbers but, in many ways, numbers are not that important so you shouldn't be worried about measurements, HBU's etc. Why do I say this?

Because there are many ways of learning and reaching a goal.

Brewing is a bit like real 'Yoga', actually pronounced, "Yog." The word means union or to become one with. There are many different forms of yoga but all have this goal. Hatha Yoga, 'Yoga of the Body,' for example, is totally different to, Raja Yoga, 'Yoga of the Mind,' or 'Royal Yoga,' however both, only if used well, can result in enlightenment.

These days, with yoga, we often forget it's original purpose. For example, some people will think hatha yoga is a great way to keep fit and flexible. This might be true but it is not it's primary purpose. Losing sight of the primary purpose of a method of thinking is very dangerous. We can see it in science (falsification of reports), religion (fanaticism) and probably even art although I am not smart enough to think of an extremely bad example of art right now.

What has all this got to do with brewing???

Well, learning numbers can be a great way of improving your brewing but it is not a necessary way and it is certainly not the only way. Some of the best brewers I know have no idea on numbers. They have an artistic approach that I'm not skilled at but that amazes me. I'll say, "How do I improve that?" and they'll say, "Just add a bit of this!" I then go :think: :idiot: :thumbs:.

All the 'pure' yoga methods have one bit of technology in common - they are designed to promote attention. Most of the time, in anything we do, we do not 'pay' attention. This is the usual scenario. The less common scenario is when someone pays so much attention they lose total sight of the primary purpose. They can't see the object of their attention as a tool, instead they see it as the goal.

The primary purpose of brewing is to make a beer that delights the senses (yours and maybe even others). Nothing more, nothing less. This can't be done without 'paying' attention.

Haven't done a ramble like that for a while Bek - my apologies :lol:.

Here's your updated recipe report ;)
PP

(P.S. If you want me to post back on a few simple measurements that might be worth keeping half an eye on, let me know.)

BIABacus RECIPE REPORT
***********************
The Recipe Designer, Calculator and Scaler for BIAB Brewers
(The BIABacus will be available from http://www.biabrewer.info" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; at a date to be advised.)

Coopers Best Extra Stout Clone (Batch 1) - Stout Foreign Extra (13D)
Brewer: Stoutgirl
Original Recipe by: Szamatulskis Clone Brews

Equipment, Efficiencies and Losses
-------------------------------------
Equipment: 18.38 Litres Kettle with a diameter of 30 cm (Evaporation Rate:2.98 l/Hr)
Efficiencies: 78.3% Efficiency into Kettle (EIK) and 67.1% Efficiency into Fermentor (EIF)
Kettle to Fermentor Losses = 1.66 Litres - Fermentor to Packaging Losses = 0.74 Litres

Gravities and Volumes
------------------------------
Total liquor (water) = 17.99 Litres
Volume of Mash (assuming a full-volume BIAB) = 20.47 Litres
Pre-Boil Volume and Pre-Boil Gravity = 16.62 Litres at 1.049
End of Boil Volume (before chilling) and End of Boil Gravity (or OG) = 12.15 Litres at 1.067
Volume into Fermentor and Original Gravity (OG) = 10 Litres at 1.067
Volume into Packaging (Bottles/Keg) and Final Gravity (FG) = 9.26 Litres at 1.016

Mashing and Boiling
---------------------------------
Single Infusion Mash at 66.2˚C for 90 minutes.
Boil for 90 minutes.

The Grain Bill (Original Gravity 1.0665)
---------------------------------------
2719.66 g or 84.29% Pale Ale Malt - 2 Row
159.2 g or 4.93% Crystal 120
187.72 g or 5.82% Roasted Barley
112.77 g or 3.5% Chocolate Malt
47.1 g or 1.46% Cane Sugar

The Hop Bill (BBTinseth IBU's - 43.2)
-----------------------------------
19.99 g or 40 IBU's Pride of Ringwood Pellets (9.2%) at 90mins.
9.98 g or 3.2 IBU's Styrian Goldings (Austria/Slovenia) Pellets (3.4%) at 15mins.

Yeast, Fermentation, Carbonation and Conditioning Details (ABV = 6.52%)
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Yeast Choice: Wyeast 1084
Ferment for 10 days at 18 ˚Celsius

Bulk prime with 44.84Grams of Table Sugar
Carbonate at 18˚Celsius for 14 days or Crash Chill at 1˚Celsius for 4 days and then transfer to keg.
Carbonate to 2.3 Volumes CO2.
This beer is best consumed between 0 days and 12 mths after carbonation.
Serving Temperature: 6˚C
Last edited by PistolPatch on 16 Feb 2012, 23:41, edited 9 times in total.
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Post #463 made 14 years ago
Thanks PP,

I totally get your point, thats exactly what ive been doing. I have become so distracted by trying to do things the 'right' way that i dont even feel like im brewing. Personally the last few brews have been a nightmare and now i understand why.
A friend of mine asked me if i'd give him a hand with his brew/botttle day and it was so much fun. He dosn't really care about numbers, he just brews. Thats what i need to start doing.
So what are the numbers that i do need to watch?

Bek

Post #464 made 14 years ago
flyfisherwes: Just before I get to your recipe Wes, I wanted to reply to Bek's post above. My next post here will be on your recipe.

stoutgirl: Did I write all that last night? :P. I'm glad something in the ramble helped a little.

Before answering your question on which numbers might be the best to focus on, can you give me a bit more detail on what's been making the brew days a nightmare? (We've all been there but the soomer we can make it fun, the better!) Also, have you tasted any of the results so far? Hearing these answers I think will make my next answer to you more "tailor-made." Sometimes generic advice is pretty unhelpful.

Cheers,
PP
Last edited by PistolPatch on 17 Feb 2012, 19:09, edited 9 times in total.
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Post #465 made 14 years ago
Hi there Wes and welcome aboard!

Good on you for getting stuck into it and good luck on your maiden voyage :thumbs:.

Just had a study of your post. Because you are brewing (tomorrow?) I won't ask any questions, I'll just try and give some answers. I am guessing that some questions you might have are...

1. What should I do about the Crystal 60 versus Crystal 10?
2. Is my yeast change okay?
3. Is the grain and hop bill okay?
4. How much water should I start with?

If these are your questions, I hope the below helps....

1. If you simply replace the Crystal 10, weight for weight, with Crystal 60, your beer will obviously be darker (but not horribly so) and you'll find a caramel flavour in the beer you won't get with the Crystal 10. Make a personal choice on this between going weight for weight or perhaps just adding a third. I don't think you can make a mistake here whatever you choose but I am not skilled in this area.

2. Your yeast choice is fine and my personal palate preference would be for the cleaner, less fruity yeast you have chosen. However, Nottingham is a dry yeast and a dry yeast has many practical advantages. A yeast being dry does not mean it is of lower quality. On your next pale ale brew, consider using a dry yeast susch as SO5 (US-56) if you want a clean, unobtrusive yeast.

3. I think that is all fine. I wouldn't bother changing any weights. With the volume figure I give you below, I suspect you will end up with a bit more beer than you need but at around the right gravity - probably a tad higher. Dilute this if you want to but don't rush into it. Double-check the gravity a few times. if the numbers seem out of 'whack'.

4. While your keggle top opening might only be 12 inches, I am guessing that the widest diameter of your kettle (which determines the surface area of your wort usually and therefore has a high impact on evaporation rate) would be a bit less than 16 inches. So, I would start with 8 gallons of water if you choose to do a 60 minute boil or 8.5 gallons if you choose a 90 minute boil.

Summary

I think you should do a 90 minute mash and a 90 minute boil. It is not a race :lol:. The extra time will give you a chance to take a breath and focus on your next steps.

So, make a decision on the crystal, heat 8.5 gallons up to about 154 F - 155 F (this will get you close to your mash temp of 152 F). Mash for 90 min and boil away for 90 minutes with exactly the same grain and hop bill as the original recipe (except the crystal ;).

All should be good! (Don't drink until the end of the boil otherwise you won't be able to find anything. Happens to me every time!!!)

:P
PP
Last edited by PistolPatch on 17 Feb 2012, 20:07, edited 9 times in total.
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Post #467 made 14 years ago
PP, the main problem i had with the actual brewing was the thermometer crapping out on me. So hopefully that's an easy fix with my new thermometer. I also did not leave enough time to brew, started after work and finally got it in the fermentor at 3am, hence forgetting to take an end of boil gravity (and spilling quite a bit on the floor!)
Bottling day was really the nightmare. Siphoned about 4L fine and then i must have lifted the hose a bit too far, tried to start siphoning again 4 times to no avail. No idea what was going wrong, so eventually i decanted into a jug and tipped into the fermentor.
Next problem i had was when bottling, the tap would not fill with beer, again no idea what was going on -never happened to me before. Ended up having to lift the fermentor up and unscrew the tap and fit it with a spare tap. Of course i drop the fermentor halfway through and beer goes everywhere.
Ended up with roughly 7L. Tasted ok, but will be surprised if its not infected or oxidised.
OG was 1.050 and FG was 1.013

Once again thanks PP for the time you put into your replies.

Bek

Post #468 made 14 years ago
In all actuality, this will probably turn out to be your best beer ever.

I'd strongly recommend you get yourself an auto siphon, they make things much easier, although they are not so great on the hot side.

Great story Bek, thanks for sharing :)
Last edited by hashie on 19 Feb 2012, 06:04, edited 9 times in total.
"It's beer Jim, but not as we know it."

Post #469 made 14 years ago
[EDIT: Just about to post and saw hashie's post. I think the below probably just says what he said - lol!]

Thank you Bek. Apologies too that some of my posts are more like streams of consciousness - probably my form of brewing yogs :think: :lol:. Sometimes my work requires really long or odd hours and it is relaxing for me to think/write on something different so all is good.

I remember your thermometer problem now - what fun for you :roll:. I didn't know about the other stuff though :o :smoke:. That's a great war story you've written above! I'm actually laughing a bit as I can see you are already having a bit of a frustrated laugh at what has happened to yourself. These sort of disasters are paradoxical. They are really bad (especially on the day) but they do become funny over time - the longer the better!

Very pleased though to see your humour and determination are obviously in tact. Good on you :clap:.

The worst thing about these war stories is that usually, like in your case, the brewer has done nothing wrong or reasonably foreseeable. For example, one guy brewed his first all-grain and everything went perfectly. He was so happy, excited and proud. Except, he made one mistake... He fed the family's pet goat the spent grain and spent grain is about the only thing that will kill a goat :roll:.

Suffice to say that his initial euphoria quickly subsided with his wife and family not even experiencing a temporary share in his joy. He did keep his sense of humour though as can be seen here, a post I quickly found by searching for, "Dead Goat Ale." :dunno:.

Mmmmm.

A couple of things on your problems that may or may not help.

1. It's nearly always the little things that cause massive grief. I can't see any of these you could have possibly foreseen so I think you have done nothing wrong.

2. Syphon Hoses: In my experience, a 1/2 " (11.27 mm internal diameter) syphon is a PITA. Always go a 3/8" (9.5 mm). The wider the internal diameter of the syphon, the easier it stalls. Were you using a syphon 'jiggler' or just straight hose?

3. Dodgy Tap: I doubt this will be the answer but just in case... Last year I brewed a few beers for a comp and was in a real rush so didn't transfer my usual way. Initially the beer came out of the fermentor but then the flow became slower and slower until nothing came out. Wtf? I basically went through the same process as you did but fortunately left out the dropping the fermentor step :). I use special airlocks that are only one-way. I had forgotten to open it up so basically a vacuum formed in the fermentor and that was why nothing drained :idiot:. I only tell you this story because, besides hops clogging your tap, I can't think of any other reason why the tap would fail. Sometimes, you never find a reason for these types of things.

4. Infected or oxidised: I don't think this will be a problem at all Bek. Infection problems are mainly caused from the stagnant areas in your post-boil equipment. By stagnant, I mean deadspace areas such as you'll find in kettle or fermentor taps. These areas sit for long periods without movement. It is very unlikely that you'll get an infection by treating the chilled wort a bit roughly if you pitch the yeast shortly afterwards. (I once had a new brewer do his first brew and he accidentally dropped the empty packet of dried yeast into his fermentor after pitching. He reached in and grabbed it out. He then assumed he must have infected the whole brew so threw it down the drain :argh:. Of course, there would have been a 99% chance that his brew would have been perfect.) Keeping your gear from stagnation between brews is the main cleanliness and sanitisation thing a brewer should concentrate on. This is the major reason why brewers can start off brewing great beers and then their quality declines.

...

So what numbers etc should you concentrate on for your next brew? The only really important numbers are what you put in and what you get out. So, record how much water you use in the beginning. Double-check if possible how much grain you start with. At the end, see how much wort you get into your fermentor and get an original gravity. Single gravity readings are very dodgy due to layering etc, etc. Most people take an OG reading from the fermentor or from the kettle once it has chilled. My personal preference is to take it from the kettle at the end of the boil. Agitate the wort and dip a coffee mug into it. Cover that with glad wrap (plastic film) and chill it in freezer, cold water etc. Once cool, take film off, stir it and then pour it into your nice wide hydrometer jar - these are the jars that never come with the hydrometer of course :smoke:.

There are a few other ways to take good original gravity readings but the above is, in my opinion, easy and reliable.

Or...

Just forget about 'output' numbers on your next brew or two. Scale your recipe in this thread, start with the right amount of water and the right weight of grains and just enjoy your day. When you taste the beer a few weeks later, you can just say, "Yum," or, "I'd like a bit more roastiness," or whatever.

This might sound stupid but I still do it these days as much as I can as it does make a real difference... Lay out and prepare your equipment, do your measuring etc the day before your brew day as much as you can.

And, as you now know, never start a brew day when you get home from work, especially when a neighbour offers to come and help. But, that's another story :lol:.

It's 6:30 am here now and I haven't just woken up, I am actually just about to head for bed - another long/odd hour work day :roll:. So, apologies Bek that I haven't written concisely. At worst, I think you'll have a wry smile at the dead goat ale ;).

:peace:
PP

P.S. Just realised that I have thrown in a lot of info above. For many brewers, doing this would be a big mistake. I'm pretty sure though that you are a careful/thorough reader and can take a lot on board at once. Even so, some areas need more explanation but what reader could bear more than the essay above? :lol:. If you have some specific questions on the above, I will try and make my answers concise/less laborious. Or, better still, I'll get hashie to answer them :thumbs:
Last edited by PistolPatch on 19 Feb 2012, 07:07, edited 9 times in total.
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Post #471 made 14 years ago
PP, well i guess if i haven't killed any livestock/pets i might not be doing so badly! That was a great tale.
I will go get a 9.5mm siphon hose, hopefully that will be the end of my siphoning woes.

For my next brew i will try to curb my enthusiasm and wait till i have enough time so i'm not rushing.
So now after work, i'll just have to settle with drinking instead of brewing.

Post #473 made 14 years ago
Good link Lylo :peace:

LOL Bek :P. Next time you have a minute, see if you can find some posts here on 'jiggler' syphons. Some of the guys have had success with these. Maybe there is a smaller diameter model available?
Last edited by PistolPatch on 20 Feb 2012, 17:56, edited 9 times in total.
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Post #474 made 14 years ago
Thanks Lylo, great info in that link, have read it once before but there was quite a bit that my brain disnt absorb.

Will check that out PP.

I got impatient so i opened a bottle, tasted ok but the head went crazy, over half the bottle was head.
Gusher bug?

Bek

Post #475 made 14 years ago
stoutgirl5 wrote:Thanks Lylo, great info in that link, have read it once before but there was quite a bit that my brain disnt absorb.

Will check that out PP.

I got impatient so i opened a bottle, tasted ok but the head went crazy, over half the bottle was head.
Gusher bug?

Bek
Did you chill it down for at least 48 hours in the fridge to allow the CO2 to be absorbed into the liquid before you opened it? If not, you will usually get a gusher.

Speaking of gushers, I currently have a case of beer I made as a test batch with some home-grown hops, had a mental lapse when I bottled it and added enough priming sugar for a 5 gallon batch.......except this was only a 2.5 gallon batch! "Over-carbonated" does not even begin to describe this batch. :idiot:
Last edited by thughes on 20 Feb 2012, 21:33, edited 9 times in total.
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