Wow thats a big beer and a big ask going on the info we have

I think the best you could do is find an Imperial stout recipe and ramp it up. See what you can find and post back, in the mean time someone might volunteer a recipe.



Yeasty

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Re: Request: Big Imperial Stout recipe akin to BrewDog's Par

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Ahh...

I was looking at the last one on beerandwinejournal.

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Its a shame you have already ordered the ingredients. It would have been better to sort the recipe out first... but nevermind.

I know it can be daunting looking at the BIABAcus for the first time, but if you get stuck into it, and start looking at what hapens when you make alterations, you will get the hang of it in no time.

To get you started I have attached a BIABacus that has some of the detail entered. This can be useful if others want to look and make sugestions too, but you will need to check some of the values I have entered are correct. kettle dimensions, will you be using a hopsock?, grain specs, and most importantly we would need to know the AA% of the hops you have bought. I haven't entered any details for these in your file.
I would guess columbus could be used for bittering, and first gold for flavour/aroma? I would have thought it better to save your Saaz for a lighter beer though, as noble hops like these may get drowned out in all the strong grain flavours.

As for the grains; I am by no means saying you should use what is entered (I have halfed your qty of crystal & oats though as they may have been too much).
Have a look, and see if we can get you closer to having a "safe" recipe. Once the recipe, and hop additions are sorted you can then simply change the volume into fermenter (VIF) or O.G. to suit either your requirements (read leftovers), or match what you have bought (read ingredients used up).

For reference you currently can have a VIF of 11L, and an O.G. of 1.100 (10% ABV), this can/will change depending on some of the missing info required.

BIABacus PR1.3T - Big Imperial (DYR) .xls

If I were brweing this I would be tempted to do a parti-gyle of some sort. You could end up with something similar to Guiness as well as the RIS, but don't worry about that unless you really want to jump in at the deep end! In fact I probably shouldn't have mentioned it

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I am not sure of your experience level DYR, but this guide here may help with some terminologies etc.

I see you have changes the hopsock to "Y", good, so just make sure you do on the day otherwise you will make a slightly different beer.
IMHO I think 11L in a 25L cube isn't advisable. If you are pitching ASAP (next day) your risks are reduced. My concern here isn't sanitation (which you can do with the cube as you mentioned) it is the amount of oxygen exposure. Like I said, quick pitching reduces the risks, but be aware of them.

BIABacus -
Section A is for info (no effect on ingredients).

Section B is essential, as this defines your equipment, boil length, and volumes.

Section C is essential, it needs to know how "strong" you want your beer to be, and what ingredients it is using to get there. (Across the top row) O.G. is for scaling an existing recipe, "for this batch" is if you want to make a modification to the existing recipe (this takes precedent I believe even if there is an entry in the O.G.), natural priming is if you are adding sugars after fermentation for carbonation purposes. if you force carbonate with a CO2 cylinder then type "N" here, "Y" this will make a very small change to ABV% values in the finished product.
The bill design section is essential for reasons mentioned above. You can enter weights or percentages here (as an example in your file, where your pale malt says 4000g and is 66.7% of the grain bill, you could type 66.7 instead of 4000, however, the entries below will also have to follow the same convention so that it all adds up to 100. To the right of this is what you will use, self explanatory, it is the weights you need to use on your brew day.
You will only need to make entries here if there is a difference in the ingredients from original.
The EBC values will give you an indication of colour (but is not essential). There is also a little box that is easy to miss, next to the grain entries called "method" again not essential unless you are steeping or boiling ingredients.

Section D - essential, if you are copying a recipe, you will need to know their VAW. Otherwise just enter the IBU's you want to achieve in the "i'm designing my own recipe". These values will be used to determine the quantities of hops required for the brew. Similar to the grain bill, you only need to enter values on the right hand side if they are different from the original recipe, and again you will use in your brew the values in "what you will use".

Section E - required but not essential, though will advise on strike temps (so assign your own importance to that).

Section F - not essential, though useful.

Section G - not essential apart from hopsock Y/N as this will affect volumes.

These are what you will need to know for now, for this brew. There are many other functions and adjustments, but you will not need to worry about them at the moment. However..... Section K does not need any inputs, but this is one of the most important sections you need for the brew day. It tells you what volumes are required.

Your EBC values will be OK, I just used a value for crystal wheat as I have never heard of dark wheat.

2 vols of CO2 seems about right for the style I guess

IMHO whenever I do a parti-gyle I do it thinking I have nothing to lose. If I didn't part-gyle the grain would end up in the bin anyway.
I would probably put about 10L of 78C water in another bucket/kettle leave for 10 mins, drain, and see what you get.
The only problem you have is that you either have to do 2 boils in one day, or risk storing unboiled wort for another day. Life and brewing is all about choices!

Now after that lengthy post (done in the style of PistolPatch), I think I need a beer

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