Post #1826 made 11 years ago
Thanks, PP. I just downloaded the PR 1.3K and am about to enter my stuff into it. When I first open the file, I get this message, screen shot attached. Is this worth worrying about, or fine as is?
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Post #1827 made 11 years ago
Hi All,

Looking for recipe critique of this one please. Its for a local comp and have to use pre defined aussie hops.
More so wondering if any one has used marris otter in an ipa before with success. Not expecting anything more than feedback as its my first comp.
CATnDOG IPA.xls
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Last edited by DaveDoran on 07 May 2014, 04:41, edited 6 times in total.

Post #1828 made 11 years ago
laserghost wrote:Thanks, PP. I just downloaded the PR 1.3K and am about to enter my stuff into it. When I first open the file, I get this message, screen shot attached. Is this worth worrying about, or fine as is?
My goodness! Lol!

Never seen anything like that before :shock:. It looks like you are using Apple. What sort of spreadsheet program? I think that was the cause of your other problems as well as that spreadsheet program is immediately corrupting the file. I think you'll need to use LibreOffice for Mac as I don't think there are any problems there.

Fun and games eh LG? :roll:
DaveDoran wrote:Hi All,

Looking for recipe critique of this one please. Its for a local comp and have to use pre defined aussie hops.
More so wondering if any one has used marris otter in an ipa before with success. Not expecting anything more than feedback as its my first comp.
Sounds like fun Dave. A few preliminary things. Try and use PR 1.3 K as some terminology etc in PR1.3 is obsolete. Also use the naming convention... "BIABacus PR1.3? - IPA - CATnDOG IPA.xls". Makes things easier on your own computer down the track and also when posted up here.

On the recipe, I think maybe a good way to go is to ask you questions so as you make sure you are clear why you are making the decisions you have made. Marris Otter would be fine. I'm wondering why so much wheat? Not really needed. Also wondering why such a dark crystal?

On the hop side, when designing a recipe, make a decision on what IBU's you want and type that on the second line of Section D. Lave the first line blank. Also put your hops in time order so as it keeps things clear for you.

My questions on the hops are... Why are you adding hops every ten or so minutes. What do you want from them at those times? I think the Summer hops are more suited to end of boil and after boil. Vic Secret is fine where it is. Mind you. I am not speaking from experience at all as there are so many hops out these days I can't keep up with them. I am basing my comments on what I read here.

On one of the Vic Secret hop additions you have WP (I assume that means Whirlpool and then 15 mins beside it. Get rid of the 15 minutes otherwise the BIABacus and other readers will think you are putting this hop addition in 15 minutes before flame out. If you want to define a time for the whirlpool hops, write it in Section I.

One last thing. See your red warning about your mash volume? You need to hold five or so litres back and add them before or during the boil after you pull your bag especially as you have a tall, narrow kettle. (Use Section W to do this.) Definitely get PR 1.3K as the warnings etc work in it better as well.

Good on you! :peace:
Last edited by PistolPatch on 07 May 2014, 08:36, edited 6 times in total.
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Post #1829 made 11 years ago
Pistol, you are busy on this forum! You are correct, I'm on a Mac, but I'm using Microsoft Excel ... I'll look into LibreOffice, but instinctively I thought Excel would be preferred. Will post back with my results.

Cheers!
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Post #1830 made 11 years ago
Wow, that is weird lg. I've never heard of any problems before with Mac.

The only named areas in the spreadsheet relate to the Print Areas of the Recipe Report and the Checklist and they are not needed. I'll attach here a version with them deleted and see how you go. If it works alright, I'll remove them from the main release as well.

I've called it double K.

:luck:

P.S. Let me know if it comes up as Protected. In other words, you should only be able to click on input fields. Also see if you can Unprotect it without a password.
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Post #1831 made 11 years ago
Thanks for the response PP. Great advice and will be using this for sure.
Have filled it in on the PR 1.3K version.
With this recipe this was my thinking.
The Wheat was really just for head retention so can look at dropping this back a bit. The 5% crystal was to add a little bit of sweetness to grain bill hopefully to complement the malty flavour form the Marris Otter.
Looking though my notes here and this was my thinking for the hops. Originally designed as 60 IBU recipe being of 25 IBU Bittering (Pride of Ringwood), 20 IBU Flavour (Summer) and 15 IBU Aroma ( Summer + Vic Secret) along with a significant dry hop (Vic Secret). Hope this makes sense so far.
I then decided that maybe it would be of benefit to try smooth out the bitterness of the recipe using first wort hopping. So took 10IBU's of the 60 and took them from the aroma hops being summer. This resulted in 45g of Secret to FWH.
Now I am rethinking this because Summer like Vic Secret I read is best suited to a late addition or dry hop addition. Maybe they are better off being left as a 10min addition. If I had the time I would love to do 23 batches side by side to compare.
Thanks for the advice regarding the mash volume.
Have revised it to PR1.3k and attached.
BIABacus PR1.3K -IPA - CATnDOG.xls
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Last edited by DaveDoran on 07 May 2014, 09:40, edited 6 times in total.

Post #1832 made 11 years ago
That file had the same warning that I posted earlier. It's okay though, I went ahead and got LibreOffice and there were no warnings, though the numbers it's outputting are exactly the same as before – I'll just go ahead and use Libre along with PR 1.3K and not worry about it!

Here is the new file. Everything is entered accordingly except for the 1 L wort out / 1 L water in. Not sure how to input that. When I'm writing the recipe for the beer, I don't think that's a step I would want to include, but I would like to know what mash efficiency into boil to specify.

I notice in the 1.3K version, there is "once chilled, VAW should be appox: 21.15 L" as well as "Volume of Ambient Wort (VAW): 21L" – what is the purpose for having both of those when the difference is only .15L?
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Post #1833 made 11 years ago
Mad_Scientist wrote:
cwier60 wrote: This is only my 2nd BIAB and AG brew, but I have to say I'm impressed with the accuracy of the calculations. Other than the fact that my evaporation was slightly higher than predicted, which is why I decided to dump virtually all the VAW into the fermentor because there was no "thick" trub, almost everything was spot on. My file shows my measurements. Can't wait to see how this turns out.
Let us know how this turns out and what your VIP turns out to be. How did you calculate your split between KFL and VIF?
I transferred this to keg ~2 weeks ago. I'd estimate that my VIP was ~4.75 gal, so my FPL was ~0.75 gal or 3L. I haven't done a direct comparison to Bell's 2 Hearted, but I'm really enjoying it. I expect that the IBUs are low, but the bitterness is really smooth and drinkable, which is supposed to be a characteristic of first wort hopping (FWH). I'll have to see how my IBU-loving friends like it.

I have attached my final Biabacus file for reference.

The BIAB learning curve continues, and I can't thank Pat and everyone else enough for the all the knowledge I have gained about efficiency and actually hitting targets in replicating recipes (of integrity). I brewed an oatmeal porter this past weekend, and though my efficiency numbers are a little off, I reduced my boil rate to a slow rolling boil and hit my evaporation rate almost exactly.
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Last edited by cwier60 on 07 May 2014, 11:06, edited 6 times in total.
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Post #1834 made 11 years ago
Dave, I'll have to come back to you later sorry.

Laserghost, that is super weird about the Excel for Mac. Oh well!

Regarding the two VAW's...


THe BIABacus allows a series of double-checks because we know that single readings cannot be relied on. The first measurement we can take is into the boil. See how your EIB was 75.6%? The first time we can check that is at flame-out. Checking volume at flame-out is usually pretty hard if you use an immersion chiller but other brewers and no-chillers can fairly easily take a volume reading at flame-out. However, hot volumes are a bit dodgy as ther is so much swelling at boiling temperature. If you delete your KFL and VIF in Section L,you will notice that your EAW in Section P changes slightly to 69.9%, If you were a no-chiller, this is the only number you would have available until you pitched. So, that is one of the reasons why we have that approx VAW in Section L.

Let's put the 19L and 2 L back in. Now the BIABacus changes the EAW to 69.4%. The reason it does this is because if two sets of numbers are available, it will be the cold volume figures that will be more accurate. So, it's all about enabling opportunities to double-check numbers. Let's have a look at yours...

Have fun reading this next paragraph - lol!

Theoretically, if we could measure well enough, EIB should equal EAW as no sugar is lost during the boil and that is what efficiency is all about, working out how much sugar is in the wort. Your EIB was 75.6% and your EAW was 69.4% so we have a discrepancy of about 6% which is not uncommon (but you actually really do not have that discrepancy as you'll see later). What I can do now though is have a look at your EIF figure to see if that is confirming EAW. This is a bit advanced so don't worry about it too much. Remember we talked about efficiency being a measure of how much sugar is lost in the boil? Well the only difference between EAW and EIF is how much sugar we lose in our KFL. What I see here is that your estimated VIF is an exact match to your actual and this makes it very easy for me to see if the EIF figure confirms the EAW figure. Notice how your estimated EAW and estimated EIF are almost exact matches to your actuals? Basically that is telling me that those numbers are reliable and to ignore your into boil figures.

Now your problem is this removing the wort and replacing it with water. We already talked about why not to do that. If you ever did want to make a pre-boil adjustment (which you shouldn't!!!) you would just add more water and end up with more beer at the end of the day. Never would you remove wort from the boil. Anyway, my job is to adjust the numbers so we can see what would have happened if you hadn't fiddled :).

All you basically did when you removed the wort is you took out 1 L @ 1.041. We can call this 1 x 41 metric gravity points. All we have to do is add them back in again at the end of the boil. Your end of boil gravity was 1.052. 41/52 = 0.79. All I have to do is add 0.79 L to your VIF so it now reads 19.79 L. (I'll adjust the volume at flame-out as well but will not bother with the 4% shrinkage as on 1 L it is nothing.)

Now we can see that your actual EAW was 72.0% which confirms the EIB of 75.6% quite nicely. Your EIF is 65.4%. Suffice to say your kettle efficiency was 72.0%.

What's Important

When publishing a recipe,your kettle efficiency figure is not of importance to another brewer as their kettle efficiency will be different from yours. What is important is the ratio of the grains used and the OG. Regardless, the BIABacus includes comprehensive information in its recipe report so use it as is. That is what you should use to publish all recipes. The whole question we have addressed here, in other words, is irrelevant.

It's also largely irrelevant to you. The BIABacus estimates were extremely close to what you got. If after five brews, you seem to be always getting higher efficiency than the Bi Abacus, then over-ride the default. But not until then. The worst that will happen to you is that you will get more beer than expected. Have some cooled boiled water ready at the end of each brew to dilute your wort if needs be.

Here's your file ;)
PP

(P.S. The 13.25 in Section W stays as is. Don't add a litre in there)
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Last edited by PistolPatch on 07 May 2014, 11:14, edited 6 times in total.
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Post #1835 made 11 years ago
cweir60 (second) and DaveDoran (first)

Dave, sorry I didn't get back you you uesterday. I got drunk on light beer writing BIABAcus help :lol:.

I think the recipe is more complicated thatn it needs to be. THe best IPA's recipes are often quite simple. No wheat is needed un lees with yiour water you have some problem. A simple bill if 95% MO and 5% Crystal 30 would be fine.

On the hops, do less additions. Do a bittering one at 75 mins using POR and nothing else. Do a flavour one of Vic Secret at 15 mins. Do a WP of Summer and Vic Secret and same with the DH.

I'm basing this on Mitch Steele's IPA book. Most of the American IPA's basically had one bittering addition adn then nothing else until the whirlpool. A couple had a 30 or 45 minute addition but not many. For thos recipes that had aonly bittering and WP additions, basically half th weight of hops were used at bittering and the remainder at the end of that is of any help.

The above is just an idea. I'm certainly no expert at the artistic side of recipe design. Your idea is probably as good as mine.

Just looking at cwier60 recipe now and heahas added additins all the way through as well so definitley don't take what I say as gospel.

;)

cwier60, glad to hear it is tastting great :drink:. Yep, pump the IBU's up tp 60 or 65 I reckon. Your over-riding of the BIABacus auto-estimate was a bit ambitious. If you hadn't over-ridden it, you would have been pretty spot on.

One thing, don't reduce boil vigour to try and slow down evaporation rate. It won't make much of a difference anyway. If you are worried about the large evaporation from a wide pot such as yours, float a SS bowl in it. I've got your pot and really don't worry about it. Hey, why no KFL? :)

Good stuff!
PP
Last edited by PistolPatch on 08 May 2014, 13:19, edited 6 times in total.
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Post #1837 made 11 years ago
Thanks PP.
PistolPatch wrote:Your over-riding of the BIABacus auto-estimate was a bit ambitious. If you hadn't over-ridden it, you would have been pretty spot on.
I don't understand this comment. Even after adjusting my efficiency by 9% in sec X, my measured GIB & GAW were slightly above predicted. It still seems that if my evaporation had been lower, then my VAW and GAW would have been close to what Biabacus predicted.
Hey, why no KFL? :)
I tried to explain that earlier. Probably the last 2 gallons of wort had a lot of trub in it, but there wasn't a distinct separation between "clean" wort and trub, so I just decided to dump it all into the fermenter. Therefore, my actual FPL was about twice the Biabacus estimate; I just removed the extra trub at end of fermentation instead of the beginning.

BTW, I took some to some co-workers, none of whom are homebrewers, but are IPA lovers, and we did a comparison to Bell's Two Hearted. Unfotunately, I felt that the Two Hearted was a little skunky and nowhere near as fresh as mine, so I might try another comparison later. The hop aroma and flavor of mine won hands down, but the bitterness was a little low. I'd probably just up the FWH bittering addition ~40-50%. Bottom line is this is a very enjoyable IPA for a non-hardcore IBU lover.
Last edited by cwier60 on 12 May 2014, 06:05, edited 6 times in total.
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Post #1838 made 11 years ago
That's great the beer turned out nicley cwier60 :drink:,

Thanks for re-expliaing your trub lss thing. Sometimes it gets hard in this thread keeping track of who is doing what ;).

Okay, firstly, evaporation does not affect efficiency. It affects volume only. Efficeicny is all about the amount of sugar in the wort. If you could measure things accurately, and your actuals in this brew managed to match your estimates, here is what you would have measured...

Into Boil: 33.03 L @ 1.047 = 33.03 * 47 = 1552 metric gravity points.
End of Boil: 24.24 L * 1.064 = 24.27 * 64 = 1551 metric gravity points.

The amount of sugar, and therefore efficiency, does not change due to evaporation.

Now on the 9% thing. Firstly ignore your actual into boil measurements as these are the least reliable of measurements. (Did your actual VIB really exactly match the estimated or is that 33 just typed in but not actually measured? As the previous para show, all efficiency readings rely on measuring both volume and gravity not just gravity.)

Look at your efficiecny of ambient wort reading in Section P. It is about 7% below. That is the tell-tale sign.

Now, if you simply go ahead and delete the 9% from Section X, you may get confused as your efficiecny will still read 7% below. However, if you had done this before ordering your grain bill, you would have found yourself ordering more grain and therefore you would have endded up putting more sugar into the boil and your actual would therefore have neen higher. You would have found your EAW coming to within 2% of the estimate. (You might need a beer to understand that :)).

Main lesson. Don't over-ride anything in Section X without a very good reason or several brews under your belt.

:peace:
PP
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Post #1839 made 11 years ago
Source: https://www.brewtoad.com/recipes/firework-cream-ale

Kettle Size: Keggle - 15.5 U.S. Gallon Converted Keg

Fermenter Size: 7.5 Gallon Fermenter Bucket

The recipe is currently set for a 6 Gallon batch size, but I need it for a 5 gallon batch size because ultimately this will be going into a ball-lock keg. Please let me know if there is anything I have failed to mention. Also if this is a relatively straight forward conversion can it be explained so I can learn to do some of this on my own.

Thanks for all your help.
Last edited by rephormat on 22 May 2014, 02:47, edited 6 times in total.

Post #1841 made 11 years ago
I'm having a look at this right now, but there are a few things suspicious looking. First, I doubt that crystal 15 malt has an extract potential of 10PPG as listed in the recipe. We can ignore the first point and move forward I think. Second, It says to rack to a keg at 29 PSI but doesn't give the temperature. So we will have to assume they are carbonating at or close to room temp, or carbing to over 3 vols. A little bit of a shot in the dark in terms of recreating carbonation level. I think 2.7 vols is fairly standard for the style, so we can go with that for now. It also appears that they just dump everything in the fermenter, trub and all. Considering that they are dumping everything into the fermenter, I think this recipe is probably meant to leave 1 gallon behind in the fermenter and yield 5 gallons VIP (volume into packaging).

I'd suggest putting 20.5 or 21 in the VIF field of BIABacus. Or I can upload a partially completed file that you can change the kettle dimensions to match your equipment, and populate the fields in section G.
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Post #1842 made 11 years ago
Hey guys, I'm going to be brewing my first BIAB next weekend and I'm looking for some help converting a recipe over to a 3 gallon batch.

My kettle holds 7.5 gals, and is 13" diameter and 13" deep. Fermenter is a 5 gal wide mouth by northern brewer. I will be using a modified kegco kegerator as a fermentation chamber to maintain consistent temp.

The recipe below lists a mash temp of 66 deg C but afterward people said to mash at 68-69 deg C for better results. I'm totally new to BIAB, but have been reading a crazy amount of info and I'm about ready to go for it. The simpler it is to understand the better for me! LOL, thanks!!!




Style: APA
Name: Galaxy crossing Cascade
Yeast: US- 05
Fermentation Temperature: 18 Deg C
Original Gravity: 1.048
Total IBU's: 29.5 - No Chill.
Colour (EBC): 12.8
Efficiency at End of Boil: 68%
Mash Length (mins): 60 mins
Boil Length (mins): 30 mins
Your Vessel Type (Pot/Keggle/Urn): Crown Urn
Source/Credits:
Notes/Instructions/Comments:

Volumes etc.

Your Vessel Volume (L or gal): 40 ltrs
Your Vessel Diameter (cm or in): 33.7 mm
Water Required (L or gal): 31 ltrs - 342 mm
Mash Temperature (C or F): 66 Deg C
Volume at End of Boil (L or gal): 28 Ltrs
Volume into Fermenter (L or gal): 20 Ltrs
Brew Length (L or gal): 21 Ltrs
Total Grain Bill (g or oz): 4.90 kg

Grains - Colours - Percentages and/or Weight (g or oz)

Grain 1: 2.1kg Golden Promise (5.9 EBC) 42.86%
Grain 2: 2.1kg Maris Otter (7.9 EBC ) 42.86%
Grain 3: 0.500 kg Wheat Malt (2.0 EBC) 10.20 %
Grain 4: 0.200 kg Caraamber ( 70.9 EBC) 4.08%

Hops - AA% - IBUs - Weight (g or oz) at Minutes

Hop 1: Galaxy 14.3% 12.3 IBU 8g @ 30 mins
Hop 2: Cascade 6.8% 5.61 IBU 10g @ 10 mins
Hop 3: Galaxy 14.3% 11.6 IBU 10g @ 10 mins
Hop 4: Galaxy 14.3% 0 IBU 52g French Press.
Last edited by LampyB on 25 May 2014, 02:08, edited 6 times in total.

Post #1843 made 11 years ago
LampyB wrote:Hey guys, I'm going to be brewing my first BIAB next weekend and I'm looking for some help converting a recipe over to a 3 gallon batch.
Do you have a source for the recipe that we can have a look at?
You say 3 gallon batch, is that 3 gallons ending up in bottles/kegged or 3 gallons in the fermenter?
Last edited by JackRussel on 25 May 2014, 02:35, edited 6 times in total.
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Post #1844 made 11 years ago
I'm looking for 3 gallons to fermenter but more is fine if it fits into my 7.5 gal pot. I'm open to brewing as much as possible with my pot.

The recipe came from someone in this forum but thats the extent of info I have to work with.

Post #1845 made 11 years ago
Source: http://www.biabrewer.info/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=1236

This recipe is full of mistakes I think.

1. Says 30 minute boil, but 90 min boil seems to better match his equipment's boil-off and total water need. 90 min boil also seems fairly close to his start of boil volume (if the end of boil listed is actually start of boil volume). :dunno:

2. The IBU is way off from what the recipe lists. If I double both of the 10 min additions then we get close. I don't really understand this, as this appears to be a generated recipe report. Maybe the program that generated the report increases IBU for no-chill users?

Unfortunately the user hasn't visited the forum in over a year, so asking for clarification may not help. Maybe one of the more experienced brewer's here can make sense of this, but I can't.

We can scale the recipe to 3 gallons, but you would have to decide whether you are OK with the IBU being much lower than what is listed, or increase the hops to match the IBU listed. I'm also unsure how to handle the "French press" hops.
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Post #1846 made 11 years ago
I've been trying to make sense of this for a long time today, I completely agree that it's off in several areas. Really appreciate the feedback on this one. I'm going to scrap it for now until I'm more experienced and able to build an accurate recipe out of it.

Back to the drawing board, looking for a good Amber to brew instead. Thanks JR!

Post #1847 made 11 years ago
Ok I'm back with another recipe, and this time I was able to put together the BIABacus to the best of my ability, and I used the Calculator to determine basic water volumes to start out with.

The recipe is for a 5 gallon to keg batch, I converted over to 3 gallons to finish with. Will you guys take a look and see if all looks good for a 3 gallon batch?

My kettle: 13"x13" = 7.5 gals
Water Required: 5.76 gals to start
Grain Bill: 7.02 lbs
Grain Absorption: 68 oz

Original Recipe:
http://www.brewersfriend.com/homebrew/r ... ybi-recipe
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Last edited by LampyB on 26 May 2014, 00:51, edited 6 times in total.

Post #1848 made 11 years ago
LampyB wrote:Ok I'm back with another recipe, and this time I was able to put together the BIABacus to the best of my ability, and I used the Calculator to determine basic water volumes to start out with.
LampyB, I'll start by telling you that I have done only 3 BIAB brews, but I have just gone through many of the issues you are dealing with, so I'll offer my suggestions. Hopefully, I won't offer any incorrect info, and the experts will chime in if I do so. The first comment is that you're making a clone of a clone of a clone. If you trust the info about the original CYBI recipe (or want to verify it yourself or already have), then why not use that as your baseline instead of kcpup's brewersfriend version, which doesn't match the OG, FG, or IBU of JZ's CYBI version? Obviously, if you make that choice, then you'll have quite a few tweaks, but you may get closer to the original Uinta recipe.

Next, there's no need to use the Calculator, as it's basically just an obsolete limited version of the Biabacus, which will help you figure out everything (with a little help) and learn how each ingredient, volume, etc. impacts your end result.

Here are some observations about your Biabacus file.
  • Will you guys take a look and see if all looks good for a 3 gallon batch?
    You have probably chosen a safe volume for your kettle, but you could push it a little higher. If you keep increasing the VIF in Sec A, you'll see that you first get a warning when you exceed 13.56L. I'm not sure of the criteria for the warning, but you still have ~1.25 in of headspace during mash and 3.25 in at the start of boil, which should be fine. Therefore, if you want to brew as much as your kettle allows, that would be where to start.

    Notice that both the CYBI and brewersfriend versions specify IBU in Rager, but Biabacus calculates Tinseth. You need to account for this difference.

    If you do decide to base your recipe on the CYBI one, then of course your OG becomes 1.049 and FG 1.012 (3P). You can input the grain bill with either that recipe's weights or simply as percentages. Both yield the same result as long as you specify the correct OG.

    Since you haven't brewed yet, Secs L & M should be blank, and I'm almost certain N should be too. Did you add that? I can't think of a reason you would want to make any adjustments in this section.

    Notice that your FG is only 1.016 vs. the brewersfriend target of 1.103? This is because you have the apparent attenuation in cell AG179 of 70%. This drops to the expected 1.013 when you use the 76.5% average value listed in the BF recipe.

    You have quite an extensive checklist in your Sec Z checklist. I have to assume some of it may be boilerplate, since you reference Galaxy and multiple Amarillo additions, neither of which are in this recipe. Maybe you can look that over and clean it up before resubmitting your Biabacus. There are a lot of concerns I have with some of them.
I hope most of this is helpful. I'm just trying to share some of the great knowledge I have learned here recently.
Last edited by cwier60 on 26 May 2014, 08:17, edited 6 times in total.
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Post #1849 made 11 years ago
This is really good feedback. I didn't fill out a blank Biabacus, I actually just took one that was filled out for the Amarillo APA and entered my own info. Thus Sections L, M, Z were all boiler plate and don't relate to my brew. Lesson learned...

I'm going to complete this in further detail tomorrow morning and re-submit for review. I'm learning very quickly, and want to be ready to brew by next weekend. I don't mind that my first recipe is a clone of a clone (etc), as long as the numbers come close and I have a good process in place I'll see how it turns out!

More to come in the morning, really appreciate the help. I look forward to figuring all this shit out so that I can start helping others do the same!

Post #1850 made 11 years ago
Question regarding Tinseth / Rager values. BeerSmith software allows me to easily convert rager over to tinseth and see each corresponding IBU based on my hop additions in the recipe.

Here are the two IBU equivalents that populate in BeerSmith software:
Rager 12.6 IBU = Tinseth 10.1 IBU

Questions:

1. To figure out the actual hop additions for my scaled down 3 gallon batch in Biabacus, all I need to do is enter into category D my desired IBU of 10.1 (tinseth)...correct?

2. Doesn't 10.1 IBU tinseth seem way low even with a flameout hop addition and a dry hop?

All I need to do at this point is figure out how much hops to add to the batch and I'll be good to brew a test next weekend.
Last edited by LampyB on 27 May 2014, 09:37, edited 6 times in total.

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