Post #26 made 15 years ago
hashie wrote:I believe it wouldn't matter without Irish moss.

I used to use fining agents every brew, but gave them up after a while, I have found absolutely no difference in the final quality of my beers.

Others may argue otherwise, I can only speak for myself.
Quality aside, if it's not a dark beer I do like it to be clear unless of course it's a style thing...I typically don't care much about styles, just sayin.
Last edited by Nikobrew on 15 Oct 2010, 13:45, edited 5 times in total.

Post #27 made 15 years ago
shibolet wrote:sorry, i still don't understand. what happens in the mash after full starch conversion?
Sorry shib, I see now that the link I provided did not give a proper answer. Trough Lolly used to always help me out with technical stuff.

All I can tell you is that since that period, I have never trusted iodine tests. I had tried them several times but always my gravity would continue to rise after the iodine test turned.

So, sorry mate. I can't give you any technical reason here just my experience.

Cheers,
PP
Last edited by PistolPatch on 15 Oct 2010, 17:26, edited 5 times in total.
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Post #28 made 15 years ago
Nikobrew wrote:Got my bags from cabelas today, woot woot! Going to wash some lager yeast, crack my grain to bits (is there something bad about making them flour? I didn't plan on turning them to powder just curious) and brew friday or monday morning.
Good luck with it all niko :). Looking forward to hearing how it all goes.

My problem with turning grain to flour is based on the following...

1.) I am not aware of anyone doing a side by side brew with two different crushes - one normal and one extemely fine. (I might do this one day but am not really keen :). I would also have to repeat it perhaps another two times before feeeling confident in the results.)

2.) I can't think of any BIABrewers who are crushing super-fine.

3.) I can't think of anyone reporting an increase in efficiency by crushing super-fine. There might be a post or two out there but I doubt the brewer has posted results based on more than one brew.

4.) Some brewers are using bags that are coarser than others. Pictures are not much good when "showing your bag." So, my bag might handle flour while yours might not hold it at all giving you a massive trub problem. (Clear wort is a good aim to have mainly because it is safe territory.)

5.) As hashie mentioned, a fine crush is going to take longer to drain. It might even take so long to drain and retain so much liquid before your boil starts that you could get lower efficiency.

As I said in a prior post here re this, I would fully recommend any new BIABrewer not to do a very fine crush as they will be stepping into an unknown, unexplored and undocumented area on their first brew which increases the risk of something going wrong.

What we need is a heap more BIABrewers with two identical BIAB rigs :). That way we can start doing side by side tests and get "instant," feedback. One brewer with two rigs trying something once does not prove a method variation to be true. One brewer with one BIAB rig (or traditional rig) brewing two different recipes (even the same recipe) a week or more apart definitely does not prove a theory.

Make sure you take some pics Niko :),
PP
Last edited by PistolPatch on 15 Oct 2010, 17:42, edited 5 times in total.
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Post #29 made 15 years ago
Will do, PP. Strangely enough I have the equip for two identical systems. Two converted kegs, and I have four of the same bags. Not sure if I'll be doing a side by side with my first brew, though "two rigs" is really just two kettles and identical bags as that's all the biab equipment needed :P

Post #30 made 15 years ago
Great post Siggi, very informative.

Not being a scientist or as well read as yourself, I still agree with what you have to say. The only deviation being cold break, I put my chilled wort, cold break and all into my fermenter as the break is beneficial to yeast health and production. I can do this because I use a conical fermenter and drain (rack) off every day, during primary fermentation. So I have a very slim chance of any nasties getting into my beer from the break material. However, I wouldn't suggest doing this in a carboy style fermenter unless the brewer was going to rack off the trub and yeast cake within 4-5 days of fermentation begining.
"It's beer Jim, but not as we know it."

Post #31 made 15 years ago
I went with 90 minutes because I couldn't check it easily as I had no valve on the kettle and I could grab samples from different spots in my mash but it would've been inaccurate. Checking temp was as difficult as I had assumed. I used one of the long stemmed thermometers clipped to the side of the kettle. It looked like I was right where I wanted to be 150-160 range (yes I know that's quite a range but I don't care lol) though when I went to raise my temp to 170 for mashout, I moved the thermometer around to see that it was 140! So I started thinking I was wrong in my temps the whole time. I clipped the thermometer back on how I had been reading it the whole time and I think the tip was very close to the strainer at the bottom of the kettle so it was reading from a very hot area. What is nice is it was fairly consistent, so whatever the ambient temp was didn't seen to affect it much. I think it was about 40 degrees F and with my turkey fryer even with the heat off, and my old cooler/MLT sitting on top as a lid, it seemed to hold very well!

Since you've got all this grain floating around I don't know how you'd know an accurate temp reading, I didn't put a floating one in also which I will next time to cross reference. I don't know if you're supposed to read temps from the top, middle, or wherever :P
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