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BIABacus. Im I doing it right. Does this recipe make sense?

Post #1 made 13 years ago
by balli1990
Hi,

Iv been trying to get my head around the BIABacus and have experimented and come up with a recipe. This recipe is suposed to be as simple as possible (will be my second ever brew) with readily available ingredients. I was wondering if you guys could comment on whether Iv understood this properly and will this beer be drinkable? If this is rubbish can anyone suggest a simple IPA recipe I can follow? Also is the BIABacus US or Imperial when it comes to Gallons?

OVERVIEW

Style: IPA
Yeast: 1056 American Ale
Fermentation Temperature: 18c
Original Gravity:1.065
Total IBU's: 50
Colour (EBC): 32.3
ABV%: 6.3
Efficiency at End of Boil: 81
Mash Length (mins): 60
Boil Length (mins): 60
Your Vessel Type (Pot/Keggle/Urn):Pot
Source/Credits: Brooklyn Brew Shop Beer Making Book/2008
BJCP STYLE GUIDELINES


Volumes etc.

Your Vessel Volume (L or gal): 15L
Your Vessel Diameter (cm or in): 28cm
Water Required (L or gal): 7.99L
Mash Temperature (C or F): 68c
Volume at End of Boil (L or gal): 4.85L
Volume into Fermenter (L or gal): 4L
Brew Length (L or gal): 3.70L
Total Grain Bill (g or oz): 1264g

Grains - Colours - Percentages and/or Weight (g or oz)

Grain 1: Marris Otter – EBC 4 – 91.7% - 1158g
Grain 2:Crystal Malt Dark – EBC 300 – 8.3% – 105g


Hops - AA% - IBUs - Weight (g or oz) at Minutes

Hop 1:Fuggles – AA% 50 - 8.7g – 60mins
Hop 2:Cascade – AA% 6 – 4.3g – 45mins
Hop 3: Cascade – AA% 6 – 4.3g – 30mins
Hop 4: Cascade – AA% 6 – 4.3g – 15mins
Hop 5: Cascade – AA% 6 – 4.3g – 5mins

Iv attached my BIABacus file if that helps.

Any comments would be much appreciated!

Thank you!

Balli.
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Post #2 made 13 years ago
by PistolPatch
Hi there balli and welcome to the forum :peace:,

Good on you for having a crack at the BIABacus. At a quick glance it looks like you have done an excellent job :salute:. Let's have a close look and check everything...

The Recipe Report

If you are posting a BIABcus report, you don't have to worry about using the BIABrewer recipe template. Just go to the Recipe Report tab and follow the instructions there.

The Recipe

I'm no expert at the design of ingredients in a recipe so others may have better comments than me. I think everything looks fine except for one thing - the dark crystal. Probably nothing wrong with that but it will make the beer way too dark for a normal IPA. Who cares though? :)

Your Gallon Question

All measurements in the BIABacus are metric or US only.

Your BIABacus

Perfect! Good on you :party:.

Your Method

The only problem I see are the following...

1. Change your mash length from 60 to 90 minutes. A number of brewers have been measuring this and the extra 30 minutes makes an important difference in how much you extract from the grain.

(Doing a mash-out, if you can do so easily, also makes a difference).

2. Change your boil time to 90 minutes (or at least 75). Not as critical as mash time but the extra boil time can prevent a lot of potential problems such as haze.

Nice job balli :drink:
PP
Last edited by PistolPatch on 09 May 2013, 20:44, edited 2 times in total.
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Post #3 made 13 years ago
by balli1990
Thank you so much for your reply PistolPatch much appreciated.

It took me quite a while to figure out the BIABacus I'm verry pleased I managed to get it right first time :thumbs:

I was worried the EBC may be too high so Iv taken your advice and im going to use Caramunch instead of the Dark crystal which will bring the total EBC down to 16.7 which I think is more typical of the IPA style.

I will also be doing a 90 Min Mash and a 75Min boil as you suggested thank you again for the advice.

Sorry but I still have two questions left.

What dose SWN (Strike water needed) mean? Is this the actual amount of water I need to start with as I will loose some water from evaporation while heating up to strike temperature? or do I just start with the TWN volume?

What should I use to carbonate? The book Iv been reading (The Brooklyn Brew Shop How to Make Beer Book) suggests 3 table spoons of honey (1 gallon) for an IPA but I know corn sugar is a popular choice? What do you suggest I use for small 1G batches?

Thank You once again :thumbs:

Post #4 made 13 years ago
by BobBrews
balli1990,

Save this link to your favorites. :salute: Corn sugar is normally used but any sugar can be substituted in a pinch. Look at BIABacus Tab Unit Conversion [Priming Sugars] for a handy help. PP Will help you with BIABacus. I taught him everything he knows about it! :lol:

http://www.northernbrewer.com/priming-sugar-calculator
Last edited by BobBrews on 10 May 2013, 03:01, edited 2 times in total.
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Post #5 made 13 years ago
by Mad_Scientist
balli1990 wrote: What dose SWN (Strike water needed) mean? Is this the actual amount of water I need to start with as I will loose some water from evaporation while heating up to strike temperature? or do I just start with the TWN volume?
For this file you posted, start with TWN (this is the volume of water at an ambient temperature) and as it is heated, it expands to the SWN. So yes, this is what you start with. The exception is when you are doing a MAXI and there is a value in Section W.

Evaporation, grain absorption and so forth is all figured in the BIABacus.
Last edited by Mad_Scientist on 10 May 2013, 03:23, edited 2 times in total.
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Post #6 made 13 years ago
by balli1990
Thank you Bob that is a very useful link indeed. I can see myself using that calculator allot in future brews.

Thank you for clarifying that for me Mad-Scientist I didn't think about the amount water expands when heated.

Iv now ordered my ingredients for this brew and am very exited although Iv changed my Yeast choice to
S-04 as I didn't realise how expensive 1056 was (more than double the price of S-04)

Ill post updates of how its doing! Im sure ill come up with plenty more questions to bother you all with along the way :thumbs:

Thank you again, your time and knowledge has been invaluable.

Balli

Post #7 made 13 years ago
by PistolPatch
Balli, see if you can order S-05. S-05 is the dried version of 1056 and will be the same price as S-04. S-05 can be use in any recipe that quotes 1056. In fact, I can't think of a reason why anyone would purchase 1056 these days unless they wanted to make slants.

I think the honey would be fun to prime with :). Why not? The BIABacus has a priming calculator built in to it in Section Q. It requires the first temperature field in Section K to be completed as well as the 'Req Volumes of COs' field. You normally fill in these fields for a brew anyway. Type in the appropriate volume in Section Q and the result will be given in corn sugar. If you want to use something besides corn sugar, such as honey, you'll have to do as Bob said and go to the Priming Sugars section on the second sheet of the BIABacus. Sounds fiddlier than it really is especially if you are just using corn sugar which is the same as glucose and dextrose.

The BIABacus priming calculator gives a slightly lower result than the Northern Brewer one. I reckon they are all too low myself and it's probably an area we need to look at more. This could be a job for Bob :P.

Looks like Mad-Scientist has you sorted on the volumes :peace:. There's also a pic you can click on in this post that might give you some more info on terminology stuff.

:peace:,
PP
Last edited by PistolPatch on 10 May 2013, 06:58, edited 2 times in total.
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Post #8 made 13 years ago
by balli1990
Thanks again for the reply PP. I didn't realise that 1056 had a dried yeast equivalent. Is there actually any benefit to using the more expensive liquid yeast?
Unfortunately I have already orderd S-04 which I believe is like S-05 but an English version?

Is there a table of some sort that shows yeast equivalents and there ideal beer style?

My John Palmer books are in the post :) I'm really enjoying reading into the brewing topic and I hate reading so I must be finding it interesting!!

Thanks again!

Balli

Post #9 made 12 years ago
by balli1990
Hi Guys.

Today was brew day and my first BIAB.
Seemed to go quite well although my gravity measured 1.061 4 points off what I was aiming for. I also ended up with 850ml of wort over that I couldn't fit in my Demijohn (I filled it up as far as I could while leaving headroom). Could the excess amount of wort be responsible for my gravity being a bit off? ie if I had lost that 850ml of water to evaporation my gravity would have been higher?

Oh and hear is the final recipe I settled for swapping out the crystal for Caramalt and longer mash and boil times. Also my Demijohn is an Imperial Gallon (4.54L)

OVERVIEW

Style: IPA
Yeast: S-04
Fermentation Temperature: 18c
Original Gravity:1.065
Total IBU's: 50
Colour (EBC): 16.8
ABV%: 6.3
Efficiency at End of Boil: 81
Mash Length (mins): 90
Boil Length (mins): 75
Your Vessel Type (Pot/Keggle/Urn):Pot
Source/Credits: Brooklyn Brew Shop Beer Making Book/2008
BJCP STYLE GUIDELINES


Volumes etc.

Your Vessel Volume (L or gal): 15L
Your Vessel Diameter (cm or in): 28cm
Water Required (L or gal): 9.36L
Mash Temperature (C or F): 68c
Volume at End of Boil (L or gal): 5.51L
Volume into Fermenter (L or gal): 4.54L
Brew Length (L or gal): 4.20
Total Grain Bill (g or oz): 1423

Grains - Colours - Percentages and/or Weight (g or oz)

Grain 1: Marris Otter – EBC 4 – 91.7% - 1305g
Grain 2:Caramunch– EBC 90 – 8.3% – 119g


Hops - AA% - IBUs - Weight (g or oz) at Minutes

Hop 1:Fuggles – AA% 50 – 9.8g – 60mins
Hop 2:Cascade – AA% 6 – 4.9g – 45mins
Hop 3: Cascade – AA% 6 – 4.9g – 30mins
Hop 4: Cascade – AA% 6 – 4.9g – 15mins
Hop 5: Cascade – AA% 6 – 4.9g – 5mins

Cheers!!

Balli.

Post #10 made 12 years ago
by 2trout
Could the excess amount of wort be responsible for my gravity being a bit off? ie if I had lost that 850ml of water to evaporation my gravity would have been higher?
Hit the nail on the head I think!
Last edited by 2trout on 20 May 2013, 04:37, edited 2 times in total.
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Post #11 made 12 years ago
by balli1990
Cheers Trout thought that might be it.

How would I edit my biabacus to compensate for my lower boil off rate? I could just use 850 ml less of water but I have two different sized fermenters so how would I scale my boil off rate for each? If that makes sense? One is a US gallon and the other is an Imperial Gallon.

My brew is bubbling away nicely can't wait to taste it!!

Cheers

Tom.

Post #12 made 12 years ago
by PistolPatch
[EDIT: Just saw your post balli as I was hitting submit. Post up your BIABacus file ;)}
balli1990 wrote:Thanks again for the reply PP. I didn't realise that 1056 had a dried yeast equivalent. Is there actually any benefit to using the more expensive liquid yeast?... Is there a table of some sort that shows yeast equivalents and there ideal beer style?
Sorry I missed your questions above balli. Busy times here atm :sad:.

Dried yeasts are extremely high quality these days. They are cheaper, not because of any inferior quality but due to easier handling, storage etc. Most micro beers you drink will be from dried yeasts. Not all yeasts can be made dry though atm (I don't know the reason why).

If the strain of yeast you want is available in both dry and liquid, there would be no advantage in going liquid unless you wanted to do slants / yeast farming and even then, you could still do this with a dried yeast as far as I can see. Someone might correct me on this though.

As for a table of dried and liquid yeasts, I'm not sure on that either. It's a great question though and it would be an excellent new topic to start here if you can.

Your first BIAB.

:clap: on your first BIAB :thumbs:.

As trout said above, more volume at the end of the day than expected will mean a lower gravity at the end of the day than expected.

Looks like you are still posting in an old recipe report format. Let us know if you need a hand in learning how to post the BIABacus Recipe Report as that must have taken you ages to write out the report above :dunno:.

Also, if you can, post your BIABacus file up here with the actual volume and gravity numbers you recorded. That will make it easier to point out some bit s and pieces.

Good show balli :peace:,
PP
Last edited by PistolPatch on 20 May 2013, 18:55, edited 2 times in total.
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Post #13 made 12 years ago
by balli1990
Thank you once again for the reply PP.

Iv attached my BIABacus with some additional info, I hope there is enough info there to find a solution.

:headhit: I cant figure out how to copy and paste the recipe report. I am using the OSX version of Excel I dont know if that makes a difference? :think: I cant seem to click on/highlight the END OF REPORT cell?


Cheers!!

Balli
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Post #14 made 12 years ago
by PistolPatch
balli, sorry about the slow response. I've had the flu which has been a PITA. I tried to kill it with a heavy dose of Little Creature's Pale Ale a few night's ago but all this did was turn it into man flu and made me feel sorry for myself :P.

Still crook so will be as quick as I can.

On the recipe report thing, are you clicking on the cell above 'End of Report'? It won't work if you click on the actual 'End of Report' cell.

As for your numbers, they look fine to me. I don't even blink an eye if your EIK or EOBE is within 5% of estimated. Just remember that there are several times when you can take volume and gravity measurements during a brew. The more you take, the faster you can fine tune things but even after that, you should still only expect to be within 5% of estimates on your brews.

So, good stuff and brew on ;),
PP

PS Let us know about the Recipe Report thing too if you can.
Last edited by PistolPatch on 25 May 2013, 19:34, edited 2 times in total.
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Post #15 made 12 years ago
by balli1990
Get well Soon PP! There is no reason to be sorry, your health is of most importance.

Im surprised the Pale Ale didn't sort it, I thought it was good practice to drink lots of fluids. :drink:

Thank you for the advice. The ingredients for my next brew 'Hopped up IPA' (http://beersmith.com/Recipes2/recipe_242.htm) are in the post ill take more readings and measurements next time in an attempt to reduce that 5% :P

Thank you again.

Balli out.

Post #16 made 12 years ago
by PistolPatch
Yep, I was surprised the LCPA didn't work either :angry:.

Not sure what you mean by 'in the post' above????

There is no need to reduce the 5% discrepancy. No matter how well you record, you should only ever hope to be within 5% of predictions at the end of the day. As a very general rule, you should, in fact, have your BIABacus set to about 5% higher than the standard auto-efficiency and even then be still, on average, hitting a little higher than those predictions.

How did you go with the Recipe Report thing Balli?

:peace:
PP
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Post #17 made 12 years ago
by balli1990
Cheers PP!

Sorry that wasn't very clear. by 'in the post' I mean in the mail. I have to order ingredients online as there are no brew shops in my area.

Yes I now understand the recipe report thingee :champ: and the proof


[center]BIABacus Pre-Release 1.3 RECIPE REPORT[/center]
[center]BIAB Recipe Designer, Calculator and Scaler.[/center]
[center](Please visit http://www.biabrewer.info" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; for the latest version.)[/center]
[center]Hopped up IPA[/center]

Recipe Overview

Brewer:
Style:
Source Recipe Link:

Original Gravity (OG): 1.065
IBU's (Tinseth): 56
Bitterness to Gravity Ratio: 0.86
Colour: 22.3 EBC = 11.3 SRM
ABV%: 6.29

Efficiency into Kettle (EIK): 81.6 %
Efficiency into Fermentor (EIF): 70 %

Note: This is a Pure BIAB (Full Volume Mash)

Times and Temperatures

Mash: 90 mins at 67 C = 152.6 F
Boil: 75 min
Ferment: 14 days at 17 C = 62.6 F

Volumes & Gravities

Total Water Needed (TWN): 9.38 L = 2.48 G
Volume into Kettle (VIK): 8.83 L = 2.33 G @ 1.041
End of Boil Volume - Ambient (EOBV-A): 5.32 L = 1.41 G @ 1.065
Volume into Fermentor (VIF): 4.56 L = 1.2 G @ 1.065
Volume into Packaging (VIP): 4.22 L = 1.12 G @ 1.016 assuming apparent attenuation of 75 %

The Grain Bill (Also includes extracts, sugars and adjuncts)

Note: If extracts, sugars or adjuncts are not followed by an exclamation mark, go to http://www.biabrewer.info" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; (needs link)

63.6% Pale Ale Malt (5.7 EBC = 2.9 SRM) 909 grams = 2 pounds
14.7% Pale Crystal (60 EBC = 30.5 SRM) 211 grams = 0.46 pounds
14.7% Pale Wheat Malt (4 EBC = 2 SRM) 211 grams = 0.46 pounds
7% Biscuit Malt (55 EBC = 27.9 SRM) 100 grams = 0.22 pounds

The Hop Bill (Based on Tinseth Formula)

17.9 IBU Fuggles Pellets (5%AA) 8.6 grams = 0.303 ounces at 60 mins
14.7 IBU Cascade Pellets (6%AA) 6.4 grams = 0.225 ounces at 45 mins
12.3 IBU Cascade Pellets (6%AA) 6.4 grams = 0.225 ounces at 30 mins
7.9 IBU Cascade Pellets (6%AA) 6.4 grams = 0.225 ounces at 15 mins
3.2 IBU Cascade Pellets (6%AA) 6.4 grams = 0.225 ounces at 5 mins
0 IBU Cascade Pellets (6%AA) 6.4 grams = 0.225 ounces at mins (Dry Hopped)

Mash Steps

Mash Type: Pure BIAB (Full Volume Mash) for 90 mins at 67 C = 152.6 F

Fermentation& Conditioning

Fermention: US-05 for 14 days at 17 C = 62.6 F

Secondary Used: no


Req. Volumes of CO2: 2.5

Condition for 14 days.

:cool:

Hmm so in the BIABacus field 'adjust auto efficiency by' should I type in 5% there?

Also just wanted to throw this out there because iv not seen it anywhere. Anyone ever tried brewing a Butcombe Bitter? Its just I remember having a pint of this a few week ago and it was delicious.

Thank you for all your help!

Balli.
Last edited by balli1990 on 28 May 2013, 04:50, edited 2 times in total.

Post #18 made 12 years ago
by PistolPatch
balli1990 wrote:Hmm so in the BIABacus field 'adjust auto efficiency by' should I type in 5% there?

Also just wanted to throw this out there because iv not seen it anywhere. Anyone ever tried brewing a Butcombe Bitter? Its just I remember having a pint of this a few week ago and it was delicious.
I reckon start a new thread on the Butcombe Bitter thing balli. I have never heard of it and I actually only just caught your questions at the end of the BIABacus Report by luck :). Definitely go a new thread probably in the recipes forum;).

As for the adjusting auto-efficiency thing, there are many right answers here and they depend on asking many questions. The first question to ask is, "Are you bottling or kegging?", as bottling gives you a flexibility in volume that kegging won't.

Have a think on this and let me know if you can see what I am getting at.

:peace:
PP


P.S. Still think on the above but the main point, as always, is that you will rarely hit your numbers bang on in a brew. The big question is how you should set things up so as the most likely error suits your 'brewery'.
Last edited by PistolPatch on 29 May 2013, 19:59, edited 2 times in total.
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Post #19 made 12 years ago
by balli1990
Hi PP thank you for the reply. Sorry its been a while but Iv been a bit busy in work recently.

I will be botteling my beer and priming with Dextrose.

My beer has finished fermenting I took a gravity reading (Collecting the beer from my demijohn with a turkey baster) and the FG came out at 1.012 and it was expected that it would come out 1.015. Im am led to believe that this extra fermentation will add a little more dryness? I will be bottling tomorrow after picking some more swing tops up from a friends house.

Cheers!

Balli

Post #20 made 12 years ago
by PistolPatch
Have run out of time today sorry Balli so I'll have to be very quick...

1. Take FG readings (any gravity readings for that matter) with a grain of salt. Many things occur (eg stratification) that can throw readings off. 1.012 versus 1.015 is not even worth a blink of the eye so don't read anything into it ;).

2. On the auto-efficiency thing, I'd just leave the default as is for now. What this will mean is that you will probably end up with a slightly higher OG than estimated which you can then top up. However, on a brew day where you get less evaporation than usual, you might end up with more volume than estimated but the gravity will be right.

After five or so brews, then you might decide to adjust things a little.

;)
PP
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