I recently completed the first of what I hope will be a few trials on the effect of FWH. I wanted to see if the idea of adding the hops to the wort and leaving it while sparging and pre boil makes a taste difference.
Since BIAB does not do a sparge I decided to leave the hops in wort at 65c for 40 minutes in order to simulate the sparge.
Tests were done in 2 1L batches and fermented in 2L milk containers.
To simplify things for my first test I used a wort made from Light Dry Malt and split it into 2 kettles.
The OG was 1.034 and both bittering hops were same weight and selected to 26 IBU's. I only used one hop addition.
Both were held for 40 minutes at 65c, one had the bittering hop added immediately while the other was added at the boil.
I simultaneously boiled, cooled, pitched and fermented the two batches. Both finished fermenting at the same time and FG of 1.007. I bottled to the same bottles and after 3 weeks we did a three person triangle taste test. None of the testers could identify a difference between the batches.
Based on this test I would have to say I no longer believe that in full volume mashing first wort hopping adds anything. No extra flavour, no change in bitterness, nothing.
I guess it is possible that traditional mashing with sparge may produce a different result, it does have initial run-off at higher pH and SG and this may have an impact. I am considering testing this in a future experiment.
It may also be possible that the absence of hot break material in the wort has an effect. So that is a test that could also be done.
Recipe:
0.10 kg Light Dry Extract
0.75 g Magnum [12.20 %]
1g Nottingham (Danstar #-) Yeast
Post #2 made 12 years ago
Novaris, Interesting! Thanks for posting that and for doing the work. Are you testing the bitterness factor of FWH there using Magnum? I was interested in testing out the flavour aspect. I was going to try making a FWH version of my house beer, using cascade, to check out bitterness and flavour of FWH.
This should be an interesting thread. Thanks.
This should be an interesting thread. Thanks.
Guinges
Post #3 made 12 years ago
Novaris,
Really interesting experiment. Thanks for sharing.
B
Really interesting experiment. Thanks for sharing.
B
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Post #4 made 12 years ago
Hi Novaris,
Its great that you took the time to do the experiment, we so often talk the talk without having tried it.
I actually thought first wort hopping was more for replacement of your 20 minute flavour hops rather than your bittering hops.
Its great that you took the time to do the experiment, we so often talk the talk without having tried it.
I actually thought first wort hopping was more for replacement of your 20 minute flavour hops rather than your bittering hops.
Post #5 made 12 years ago
Novaris,
I did a all grain side by side also with disappointing results. I was "hopped up" at the idea and I thought it worked from my first "non controlled" tests. When I tried it under good conditions I couldn't really fine a improvement. However I may have to repeat it again as I may need more convincing. I tend to judge what I (expect) rather than what I actually (receive). I may let my beer club critique it
I am also trying to test "not" adding bittering hops until after 40 minutes of the 60 minute boil is completed. So many things to try and so little time to try them!
I did a all grain side by side also with disappointing results. I was "hopped up" at the idea and I thought it worked from my first "non controlled" tests. When I tried it under good conditions I couldn't really fine a improvement. However I may have to repeat it again as I may need more convincing. I tend to judge what I (expect) rather than what I actually (receive). I may let my beer club critique it
I am also trying to test "not" adding bittering hops until after 40 minutes of the 60 minute boil is completed. So many things to try and so little time to try them!
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tap 2 Bourbon Barrel Porter
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Post #6 made 12 years ago
BB, so you say with less than 20 minutes left to boil, you add the hops???
Do you pull them if you No-Chill, or how long after Flameout?????
Do you pull them if you No-Chill, or how long after Flameout?????
Honest Officer, I swear to Drunk, I am Not God.
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Post #7 made 12 years ago
joshua,
On a 60 minute boil I put the bittering hops in at the 40 minute mark. I will add any late hops to the hops sack (using a spider) at the appropriate time. example, 1 ounce of bittering hops with twenty minutes left. One ounce at 15, 10, 5 and 0 (flame out). I let the hop sack stay in the wort for about 5 minutes post boil. So the bittering hops are in about 25 minutes? I have done two beers but they are still sitting in a keg or fermentation bucket?
Yes, I remove the hops sack and all the pelleted hops are pulled before I no-chill them. No hop pellets (vegetable matter) in the N/C at all. The oils are in the N/C and I am curious if that isomersizes the oils? This is on the border of hop bursting and I was just curious as to the amount of bitterness derived with the minimum of boil time. I don't know if I will accomplish anything but it seemed easy to do?
On a 60 minute boil I put the bittering hops in at the 40 minute mark. I will add any late hops to the hops sack (using a spider) at the appropriate time. example, 1 ounce of bittering hops with twenty minutes left. One ounce at 15, 10, 5 and 0 (flame out). I let the hop sack stay in the wort for about 5 minutes post boil. So the bittering hops are in about 25 minutes? I have done two beers but they are still sitting in a keg or fermentation bucket?
Yes, I remove the hops sack and all the pelleted hops are pulled before I no-chill them. No hop pellets (vegetable matter) in the N/C at all. The oils are in the N/C and I am curious if that isomersizes the oils? This is on the border of hop bursting and I was just curious as to the amount of bitterness derived with the minimum of boil time. I don't know if I will accomplish anything but it seemed easy to do?
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Post #8 made 12 years ago
BB, I am trying to get good Smooth bittering ANd good Flavor.
So At flame-Out, in go 1/2 the Bbittering hops, at 190F, in go the other 1/2 for a total 60 minutes from there.
At 30min post 190F, in go the Flavor hops for 30 Minutes.
Since I secondary, I dry Hop there!
So far, the wort going into the Primary, is REALLY quite Good!
So At flame-Out, in go 1/2 the Bbittering hops, at 190F, in go the other 1/2 for a total 60 minutes from there.
At 30min post 190F, in go the Flavor hops for 30 Minutes.
Since I secondary, I dry Hop there!
So far, the wort going into the Primary, is REALLY quite Good!
Honest Officer, I swear to Drunk, I am Not God.
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Post #9 made 12 years ago
joshua,
You are upsetting the apple cart!
It sounds to me that you are on the ragged edge of blasphemy? I am very interested in what you are doing! I hope it works out well? So let me get this right..
At flame out (212F) you add 1/2 the bittering hops.
As it cools to 190F you add the other 1/2 of the bittering hops.
At 30 min. post 190F, in go the flavor hops for 30 Minutes. What is the temp?
What do you do at this point? do you N/C or just let it cool to ferment right away?
You are upsetting the apple cart!
It sounds to me that you are on the ragged edge of blasphemy? I am very interested in what you are doing! I hope it works out well? So let me get this right..At flame out (212F) you add 1/2 the bittering hops.
As it cools to 190F you add the other 1/2 of the bittering hops.
At 30 min. post 190F, in go the flavor hops for 30 Minutes. What is the temp?
What do you do at this point? do you N/C or just let it cool to ferment right away?
Last edited by BobBrews on 20 Feb 2013, 01:06, edited 2 times in total.
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tap 2 Bourbon Barrel Porter
tap 3 Czech Pilsner
tap 4 Triple IPA 11% ABV
Pipeline: Mulled Cider 10% ABV
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tap 2 Bourbon Barrel Porter
tap 3 Czech Pilsner
tap 4 Triple IPA 11% ABV
Pipeline: Mulled Cider 10% ABV
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Post #10 made 12 years ago
BB, there is data that says "Flavor hop oils" isomerizes above 158F and starts to Boil Off at 194F, so there is NO hurry for me since the Temperature is above 180F.
There is data that shows Smooth "Bitterness hops" isomerizes above 154F and start to boil off at 208F,
and data showing Harsh "Bitterness Hop Oil" isomerizes above 154F and NEVER boil Off
So FWH Works at Both ends of the Boil, but FWH boils off some of the Flavor and Smooth Bitterenss hop oils
I No/Slo-Chill in the Kettle over night (up to 2 days), and have never had a bad batch in 77 brews.
Here in Tennessee, it takes at least 12 hours to cool to ambient, in the Kettle!
There is data that shows Smooth "Bitterness hops" isomerizes above 154F and start to boil off at 208F,
and data showing Harsh "Bitterness Hop Oil" isomerizes above 154F and NEVER boil Off
So FWH Works at Both ends of the Boil, but FWH boils off some of the Flavor and Smooth Bitterenss hop oils
I No/Slo-Chill in the Kettle over night (up to 2 days), and have never had a bad batch in 77 brews.
Here in Tennessee, it takes at least 12 hours to cool to ambient, in the Kettle!
Honest Officer, I swear to Drunk, I am Not God.
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Post #11 made 12 years ago
joshua,
Good data! research and more research! What is a man to do? I guess we will all have to suffer the consequences of having too much beer and having to drink our mistakes? This is a hell of a passion to be suffering from! Good luck in your quest! I will be watching!
Good data! research and more research! What is a man to do? I guess we will all have to suffer the consequences of having too much beer and having to drink our mistakes? This is a hell of a passion to be suffering from! Good luck in your quest! I will be watching!
tap 1 Raspberry wine
tap 2 Bourbon Barrel Porter
tap 3 Czech Pilsner
tap 4 Triple IPA 11% ABV
Pipeline: Mulled Cider 10% ABV
http://cheesestradamus.com/ Brewers challenge!
tap 2 Bourbon Barrel Porter
tap 3 Czech Pilsner
tap 4 Triple IPA 11% ABV
Pipeline: Mulled Cider 10% ABV
http://cheesestradamus.com/ Brewers challenge!
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Post #12 made 12 years ago
Great thread novaris 
,
Here's a few thoughts...
1. We know bugger all about FWH. Most of the stuff you see bandied around the net is based on the results of a few brews (pilsners) published in an official journal years ago. Experiments and threads like this enable us all to learn more. Nice job! (But there, is a downside I will get to as well
.
2. In those 'first' FWH brews (the pilsners), the FWH were stolen firstly from the aroma additions, then the flavour additions and, if necessary, the bittering additions. Your brews do not do this but it is because of that that I find them even more interesting
.
3. Don't think about the sparge water side too much. Whilst most traditional brewers do not adjust their sparge water, it is copnsidered to be preferable to do so. In full-volume BIAB, if any water adjustments are made, you focus on adjusting all the water. (Another easy side of BIAB).
4. I think the real truth in experimenting is that much of it may be a waste of time, and misleading, if you only rely on yourself. I think it is one of these areas where active and interested people, like novaris, need to couple with other active and interested people for anyone to learn.
I think brewing experiments need dedicated individuals working as a collective.
I think a lot of us here already enjoy or want to get involved in experimenting but the hardest thing is to do enough experiments of exactly the same brew to safely draw conclusions. This is too hard of an ask on any one individual.
I have done large side by side brews here. (The larger the batch size, the less room for measurement error.) One example I posted here on BIABrewer.info was a chilled versus no-chilled APA's. We triangle tested on many people and still gained no knowledge. Half the tasters would say it is more this and the other half would say it is less
.
I think what I am trying to say is that you can't make generalisations until many brews of the same type are done over and over again. For example, FWH might work on one beer style but not another? Furthermore, FWH'ing might work with one hop variety but not another. (The head brewer at Little Creatures taught me these things in one single talk. I see GR mentioned the hop variety factor as well.)
So, whilst we home brewers can't draw conclusions on our own experiments (unless we can do a hundred side by sides), we certainly can learn as a group.
All the above reminded me of a post I haven't re-visited in two years. I am obviously slipping! Here's a cut and paste from an old post that all of us experimenters need to keep at the front of our minds...
novaris, and many other posters here, all have the right attitude to join such a, 'commune.' Joining a commune does not mean you have to sleep with novaris or anyone else. It just means, initially at least, talking to each other in threads like this.
You can go further if you want though. BobBrew's wrote to me, "Look, I'm happy on the whole experimenting commune thing but I will not sleep with novaris unless he sends me his photo first."
It is quite possible that I made that last paragraph up. Who knows? Have any of us verified it? And, that's the point. Hardly anything ever gets checked, let alone double-checked in the home-brewing world.
novaris, if you want to PM Bob, let me know in advance and I'll make sure he wears something nice.
PP
,Here's a few thoughts...
1. We know bugger all about FWH. Most of the stuff you see bandied around the net is based on the results of a few brews (pilsners) published in an official journal years ago. Experiments and threads like this enable us all to learn more. Nice job! (But there, is a downside I will get to as well
.2. In those 'first' FWH brews (the pilsners), the FWH were stolen firstly from the aroma additions, then the flavour additions and, if necessary, the bittering additions. Your brews do not do this but it is because of that that I find them even more interesting
.3. Don't think about the sparge water side too much. Whilst most traditional brewers do not adjust their sparge water, it is copnsidered to be preferable to do so. In full-volume BIAB, if any water adjustments are made, you focus on adjusting all the water. (Another easy side of BIAB
).4. I think the real truth in experimenting is that much of it may be a waste of time, and misleading, if you only rely on yourself. I think it is one of these areas where active and interested people, like novaris, need to couple with other active and interested people for anyone to learn.
I think brewing experiments need dedicated individuals working as a collective.
I think a lot of us here already enjoy or want to get involved in experimenting but the hardest thing is to do enough experiments of exactly the same brew to safely draw conclusions. This is too hard of an ask on any one individual.
I have done large side by side brews here. (The larger the batch size, the less room for measurement error.) One example I posted here on BIABrewer.info was a chilled versus no-chilled APA's. We triangle tested on many people and still gained no knowledge. Half the tasters would say it is more this and the other half would say it is less
.I think what I am trying to say is that you can't make generalisations until many brews of the same type are done over and over again. For example, FWH might work on one beer style but not another? Furthermore, FWH'ing might work with one hop variety but not another. (The head brewer at Little Creatures taught me these things in one single talk. I see GR mentioned the hop variety factor as well.)
So, whilst we home brewers can't draw conclusions on our own experiments (unless we can do a hundred side by sides), we certainly can learn as a group.
All the above reminded me of a post I haven't re-visited in two years. I am obviously slipping! Here's a cut and paste from an old post that all of us experimenters need to keep at the front of our minds...
I think the above might help explain why we need to start an experimenting 'commune.' I'm not sure the word, 'commune,' translates well internationally but...
The HBD Palexperiment gave over 35 brewers a recipe and the ingredients and instructions to brew it with. 35 results were returned and a table of measurements can be seen here.
I think every brewer should sit back and study that table - preferably download it. You'll see IBU's varying from 50 - 94, original gravities from 1.043 to 1.062, final gravities from 1.010 to 1.019 and final volume (whatever that means) from 4 gal to 5.1 gal.
novaris, and many other posters here, all have the right attitude to join such a, 'commune.' Joining a commune does not mean you have to sleep with novaris or anyone else. It just means, initially at least, talking to each other in threads like this.
You can go further if you want though
. BobBrew's wrote to me, "Look, I'm happy on the whole experimenting commune thing but I will not sleep with novaris unless he sends me his photo first."It is quite possible that I made that last paragraph up. Who knows? Have any of us verified it? And, that's the point. Hardly anything ever gets checked, let alone double-checked in the home-brewing world.
novaris, if you want to PM Bob, let me know in advance and I'll make sure he wears something nice.
PP
Last edited by PistolPatch on 21 Feb 2013, 00:04, edited 2 times in total.
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Post #13 made 12 years ago
Any comments please on the hop additions here before I make it. I couldn’t put 50% in the FHW as it would be bitterer than I would like. I stuck a lot of cascade in the 10 minute addition as I wanted more and more of that citrusy mango cascade flavour. I was thinking of dry hopping as well but maybe not this time as I’m not sure I would like the grassy/green flavour of dry hopping, and I don’t want to try too many things at once, but I’d be interested on comments on dry hopping with this one for next time as well. Thanks.
Last edited by GuingesRock on 25 Feb 2013, 00:02, edited 1 time in total.
Guinges
Post #14 made 12 years ago
GuingesRock,
2. What "grassy/green flavour of dry hopping" If you leave hops in for a month maybe? Dry hopping gives the fresh defined hops aroma. The combination of the bittering hops and dry hopping give the American IPA's the refreshing punch they are known for.
1. The idea of FWH is that it mellows the hops bitterness. It is suppose to make the hops presence more refined. It counter balances the sweetness of the malt.1. I couldn’t put 50% in the FHW as it would be bitterer than I would like
2. not sure I would like the grassy/green flavour of dry hopping
2. What "grassy/green flavour of dry hopping" If you leave hops in for a month maybe? Dry hopping gives the fresh defined hops aroma. The combination of the bittering hops and dry hopping give the American IPA's the refreshing punch they are known for.
Last edited by BobBrews on 23 Feb 2013, 21:21, edited 2 times in total.
tap 1 Raspberry wine
tap 2 Bourbon Barrel Porter
tap 3 Czech Pilsner
tap 4 Triple IPA 11% ABV
Pipeline: Mulled Cider 10% ABV
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tap 2 Bourbon Barrel Porter
tap 3 Czech Pilsner
tap 4 Triple IPA 11% ABV
Pipeline: Mulled Cider 10% ABV
http://cheesestradamus.com/ Brewers challenge!
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Post #15 made 12 years ago
Thanks Bob, I had read that about the bitterness, but didn't think that the change in bitterness would allow me to jump from my usual 60 IBUs to 120 IBU. If I like 60 IBU what should I aim for with FWH?
We drink the IPA from kegging and it's all finished usually before the month is up so is dry hopping not good for drinking that fresh? Maybe it isn't the thing for my house beer.
Thanks
We drink the IPA from kegging and it's all finished usually before the month is up so is dry hopping not good for drinking that fresh? Maybe it isn't the thing for my house beer.
Thanks
Guinges
Post #16 made 12 years ago
GR, I have found "dry Hopping" can be done as soon as the S.G. has dropped, and the Primary Fermentation has finished, like 3 to 10 days.
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Post #17 made 12 years ago
FWHopping wont change your IBU's noticebly as long as you calculate your IBUs for the full length of the boil.
AWOL
Post #18 made 12 years ago
Guinges,
If you put 10 pounds of Bittering hops in or 4535.9 Grams FWH hops in you can only get 50 IBU's That's the max isomerized hops are allowed by nature? You lose 10 IBU's in two months of storage. So use late hoping and dry hoping if you want to make a ass kicking hop bomb!
The hops actually stick to the side of the bottle and keg that's why the number of IBU's drop.
April 12, 2012 - Hop Bursting IBU Test
http://www.basicbrewing.com/index.php?page=radio
If you put 10 pounds of Bittering hops in or 4535.9 Grams FWH hops in you can only get 50 IBU's That's the max isomerized hops are allowed by nature? You lose 10 IBU's in two months of storage. So use late hoping and dry hoping if you want to make a ass kicking hop bomb!
The hops actually stick to the side of the bottle and keg that's why the number of IBU's drop.
April 12, 2012 - Hop Bursting IBU Test
Check this out this show. http://ec.libsyn.com/p/c/b/6/cb6cb5bd39 ... id=4441781Home Brewer Kim Odland from Norway brewed a beer with an enormous amount of hops added at the end of the boil. Brad Sturgeon from Monmouth College puts it through his lab to look at its IBUs.
http://www.basicbrewing.com/index.php?page=radio
Last edited by BobBrews on 23 Feb 2013, 23:42, edited 2 times in total.
tap 1 Raspberry wine
tap 2 Bourbon Barrel Porter
tap 3 Czech Pilsner
tap 4 Triple IPA 11% ABV
Pipeline: Mulled Cider 10% ABV
http://cheesestradamus.com/ Brewers challenge!
tap 2 Bourbon Barrel Porter
tap 3 Czech Pilsner
tap 4 Triple IPA 11% ABV
Pipeline: Mulled Cider 10% ABV
http://cheesestradamus.com/ Brewers challenge!
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Post #19 made 12 years ago
Very interesting Bob! that’s exactly what I wanted to know. So now after that, I’m going to do two equal 4 oz additions. One FWH 4oz and one 5 min 4oz addition of cascade.
I think the first 1/3 of that podcast, which has Brad’s experiment where he couldn’t get higher than 50 IBU no matter how many hops he put in the 60 minute boil is essential listening.
I think the first 1/3 of that podcast, which has Brad’s experiment where he couldn’t get higher than 50 IBU no matter how many hops he put in the 60 minute boil is essential listening.
Last edited by GuingesRock on 25 Feb 2013, 00:01, edited 1 time in total.
Guinges
Post #20 made 12 years ago
GuingesRock,
Lots of informative information on BBR Basic Brewing Radio. You just have to pick through the titles to find the gems.
Lots of informative information on BBR Basic Brewing Radio. You just have to pick through the titles to find the gems.
tap 1 Raspberry wine
tap 2 Bourbon Barrel Porter
tap 3 Czech Pilsner
tap 4 Triple IPA 11% ABV
Pipeline: Mulled Cider 10% ABV
http://cheesestradamus.com/ Brewers challenge!
tap 2 Bourbon Barrel Porter
tap 3 Czech Pilsner
tap 4 Triple IPA 11% ABV
Pipeline: Mulled Cider 10% ABV
http://cheesestradamus.com/ Brewers challenge!
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Post #21 made 12 years ago
Many of the stories about FWH, advise that it alters the quality of the bitterness. And that it adds flavour to the brew.PistolPatch wrote:Great thread novaris
Here's a few thoughts...
1. We know bugger all about FWH. Most of the stuff you see bandied around the net is based on the results of a few brews (pilsners) published in an official journal years ago. Experiments and threads like this enable us all to learn more. Nice job! (But there, is a downside I will get to as well
2. In those 'first' FWH brews (the pilsners), the FWH were stolen firstly from the aroma additions, then the flavour additions and, if necessary, the bittering additions. Your brews do not do this but it is because of that that I find them even more interesting
PP
I deliberately minimised the variables to see if I could better understand these changes. So I avoided and flavour or late hopping additions. If FWH actually adds flavour then this test should show it, same with any change to bitterness.
I really expected to get a flavour difference but I wanted to be sure so I arranged the three of us to do blind triangle tests. It was immediately obvious to all of us that the difference was probably not there. We still tried our best to guess the different brew and we all failed to get it right.
The fact that stories exist about FWH is very likely the result of the natural tendency to believe our ability to discriminate is better than it is. This happens all the time and seems to be particularly exaggerated when we are dealing with things that stimulate emotion, or that we have emotionally bonded to eg. brand association.
Its telling that as soon as I knew which was the odd brew I suddenly felt sure I could smell a difference. I did not go as far as to tell myself I could taste a difference but I really thought I could smell it. Of course this is rubbish if I could have detected a difference in smell I would have in the blind test.
It would be great if this test could be repeated by others, Joshua mentioned There is data that shows Smooth "Bitterness hops" isomerizes above 154F and start to boil off at 208F, this would indicate that perhaps I missed the temperature I was under this by 5F
My test does not rule out FWH it just indicates doing it this way does not work. How many ways did Edison learn not to make a light bulb?
Last edited by novaris on 24 Feb 2013, 13:43, edited 2 times in total.
Everything in moderation - including moderation!
Post #22 made 12 years ago
I like this link http://www.brewersfriend.com/2009/05/09 ... t-hopping/ but I still can’t figure out from reading whether, as you say, it is all Emperors clothes/brand association stuff.
Is Emperors clothes/brand association such a bad thing?
I’m going to try brewing the FWH beer today and when it is ready I will see if I can kid myself that it is better. How long I can kid myself that FWH is better, will be all the testing I need to do.
I’m not doing a side by side.
If I like something, the longer I keep liking it, the more convinced I become that I do like it, and whether I like it or not is all that matters to me.
So much of the colour of life is subjective experience.
Should Beer be a scientific thing or should it be a subjective thing?
I can think of many beautiful life experiences that are entirely subjective, and the enjoyment of them would be stolen away by scientific experiment and side by side testing.
A micro-brewer marketing his beer can use terms like FWH and Dry Hopping, to give that marketing edge and make his beer sound special, command a higher price, and more sales.
There is a commercial beer which I can’t stand to drink, around here, and it is very popular because it is marketed as an IPA. It has no resemblance to an IPA. I won’t say what it does resemble.
The home brewer can use branding too:
“Would you like to try my FWH beer? FWH is a very old and recently re-discovered brewing process”
It’s a bit like:
“Would you like a Coke?” vs. “Would you like a cola?”
Is Emperors clothes/brand association such a bad thing?
I’m going to try brewing the FWH beer today and when it is ready I will see if I can kid myself that it is better. How long I can kid myself that FWH is better, will be all the testing I need to do.
I’m not doing a side by side.
If I like something, the longer I keep liking it, the more convinced I become that I do like it, and whether I like it or not is all that matters to me.
So much of the colour of life is subjective experience.
Should Beer be a scientific thing or should it be a subjective thing?
I can think of many beautiful life experiences that are entirely subjective, and the enjoyment of them would be stolen away by scientific experiment and side by side testing.
A micro-brewer marketing his beer can use terms like FWH and Dry Hopping, to give that marketing edge and make his beer sound special, command a higher price, and more sales.
There is a commercial beer which I can’t stand to drink, around here, and it is very popular because it is marketed as an IPA. It has no resemblance to an IPA. I won’t say what it does resemble.
The home brewer can use branding too:
“Would you like to try my FWH beer? FWH is a very old and recently re-discovered brewing process”
It’s a bit like:
“Would you like a Coke?” vs. “Would you like a cola?”
Last edited by GuingesRock on 24 Feb 2013, 20:46, edited 2 times in total.
Guinges
Post #23 made 12 years ago
Quick question please.
Just starting this. I don’t want to do a mashout as I would have to cool the wort again back to mashing temperature to do the FWH. I normally do a mashout.
Will not doing a mashout change the beer much/at all?
Just starting this. I don’t want to do a mashout as I would have to cool the wort again back to mashing temperature to do the FWH. I normally do a mashout.
Will not doing a mashout change the beer much/at all?
Guinges
