GR, Your file looks good to me. If you use a hopsock or whirlpool, answer the question(s) in Section G, and it will change the grain and hop bill lower.
As for your question about pellet to leaf hops calculations, it's just an annotation in the 'Form' and 'Method' columns (Section D).
Let us know how it comes out!
Post #1002 made 12 years ago
Thanks a lot MS
I got the hop thing now with your help. I didn’t realize there were two little boxes for hop form and method beside the name box until I clicked there. It looked like it was all one box. That’s great.
I got the hop thing now with your help. I didn’t realize there were two little boxes for hop form and method beside the name box until I clicked there. It looked like it was all one box. That’s great.
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Guinges
Post #1003 made 12 years ago
"Sorry to hear about the bag. Good to see Bob did a sympathy burn for you 
. How's that for the Brewerhood?"
Brewerhood, I like that. LOL
"Your file actually opened up with an unreadable content warning. I think it's because you saved it as an .ods. If using Libre or whatever, still save it as an .xls file (2003) as I think this is problem free."
The next time I save a biabacus will try saving as an .xls. The one I'm attaching for the blonde ale is also .ods, not sure how or if I can change it.
"Your numbers are looking 'honest' to me on a single brew. (You've actually done a superb job at filling the actuals in). See how you have a discrepancy between EIK and EOBE? They should be much more in agreement but anyone who gets perfect agreement on every brew on these two numbers is fudging."
I did notice this & my second batch the discrepancies are about the same. I did use hot tap water instead of cold when filling my keggle at the start of the mash so I beleive this could account for some of the discrepancy. I may losing a lot to evaporation as well. I may try the bowl floating on top of the wort during the boil next time.
"To me, your file looks very typical. Your numbers could be mine on any of my brews. What next?...
Don't make any adjustments on your next few brews. Your end of the day numbers are definitely in the ballpark. Nothing worries me at all. If you leave things as they are for a few more brews, the 'noise' will settle down and, if there are any adjustments to be made, we will see them easily and be able to place some good faith in those adjustments."
Sounds good. The second batch seems cloudy as well when kegging it but will have to wait until I finish Tood's IPA before tapping that one.
Thanks again for the help & the great site.
Keith
. How's that for the Brewerhood?"Brewerhood, I like that. LOL
"Your file actually opened up with an unreadable content warning. I think it's because you saved it as an .ods. If using Libre or whatever, still save it as an .xls file (2003) as I think this is problem free."
The next time I save a biabacus will try saving as an .xls. The one I'm attaching for the blonde ale is also .ods, not sure how or if I can change it.
"Your numbers are looking 'honest' to me on a single brew. (You've actually done a superb job at filling the actuals in). See how you have a discrepancy between EIK and EOBE? They should be much more in agreement but anyone who gets perfect agreement on every brew on these two numbers is fudging."
I did notice this & my second batch the discrepancies are about the same. I did use hot tap water instead of cold when filling my keggle at the start of the mash so I beleive this could account for some of the discrepancy. I may losing a lot to evaporation as well. I may try the bowl floating on top of the wort during the boil next time.
"To me, your file looks very typical. Your numbers could be mine on any of my brews. What next?...
Don't make any adjustments on your next few brews. Your end of the day numbers are definitely in the ballpark. Nothing worries me at all. If you leave things as they are for a few more brews, the 'noise' will settle down and, if there are any adjustments to be made, we will see them easily and be able to place some good faith in those adjustments."
Sounds good. The second batch seems cloudy as well when kegging it but will have to wait until I finish Tood's IPA before tapping that one.
Thanks again for the help & the great site.
Keith
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Post #1004 made 12 years ago
Wow you guys are amazing. This is the friendliest brewing website I have ever seen. Here is the original recipe before I scaled down using Beersmith. It looks like I will be using the biabicus in the future so I don't need to know what I did wrong in Beersmith.
http://beersmithrecipes.com/viewrecipe/2779/chinook-ipa
If someone could show me how the biabicus would have scaled down this recipe that would be awesome. It looks like my efficiency was 72 percent (I think????) and I hit everything spot on except for my volumes. I am also curious as to what my ibu's are for the batch I brewed since I hit 1.054 instead of 1.062. I just measured my brew pot. It is 34.29 cm across and 25.4 cm deep. You guys can see my Beersmith recipe up above right? Thanks so much guys!!!
Metalhophead Fred
http://beersmithrecipes.com/viewrecipe/2779/chinook-ipa
If someone could show me how the biabicus would have scaled down this recipe that would be awesome. It looks like my efficiency was 72 percent (I think????) and I hit everything spot on except for my volumes. I am also curious as to what my ibu's are for the batch I brewed since I hit 1.054 instead of 1.062. I just measured my brew pot. It is 34.29 cm across and 25.4 cm deep. You guys can see my Beersmith recipe up above right? Thanks so much guys!!!
Metalhophead Fred
Post #1005 made 12 years ago
Also my brewpot is 19 liters (5 gallons) I'm not able to find my previous post with my scaled down recipe so here it is again. I posted this on another brewing site and everyone said it looked good but I guess they weren't biab experts like you guys!
BeerSmith 2 Recipe Printout - http://www.beersmith.com
Recipe: Chinook IPA- Edited
Brewer: Rob
Asst Brewer:
Style: American IPA
TYPE: All Grain
Taste: (35.0)
Recipe Specifications
--------------------------
Boil Size: 3.62 gal
Post Boil Volume: 2.87 gal
Batch Size (fermenter): 2.25 gal
Bottling Volume: 2.03 gal
Estimated OG: 1.062 SG
Estimated Color: 7.6 SRM
Estimated IBU: 57.2 IBUs
Brewhouse Efficiency: 65.00 %
Est Mash Efficiency: 79.7 %
Boil Time: 60 Minutes
Ingredients:
------------
Amt Name Type # %/IBU
5 lbs 4.7 oz Pale Malt (2 Row) US (2.0 SRM) Grain 1 90.0 %
5.8 oz Pilsner (2 Row) Ger (2.0 SRM) Grain 2 6.1 %
3.6 oz Caramel/Crystal Malt - 80L (80.0 SRM) Grain 3 3.9 %
0.52 oz Chinook [13.00 %] - Boil 60.0 min Hop 4 47.5 IBUs
0.26 oz Chinook [13.00 %] - Boil 10.0 min Hop 5 8.6 IBUs
0.26 oz Chinook [13.00 %] - Boil 1.0 min Hop 6 1.0 IBUs
0.5 pkg Safale US 05 [50.00 ml] Yeast 7 -
0.23 oz Chinook [13.00 %] - Dry Hop 3.0 Days Hop 8 0.0 IBUs
Mash Schedule: BIAB, Full Body
Total Grain Weight: 5 lbs 14.1 oz
----------------------------
Name Description Step Temperat Step Time
Saccharification Add 16.20 qt of water at 162.2 F 156.0 F 60 min
Mash Out Heat to 168.0 F over 7 min 168.0 F 10 min
Sparge: Remove grains, and prepare to boil wort
Notes:
BeerSmith 2 Recipe Printout - http://www.beersmith.com
Recipe: Chinook IPA- Edited
Brewer: Rob
Asst Brewer:
Style: American IPA
TYPE: All Grain
Taste: (35.0)
Recipe Specifications
--------------------------
Boil Size: 3.62 gal
Post Boil Volume: 2.87 gal
Batch Size (fermenter): 2.25 gal
Bottling Volume: 2.03 gal
Estimated OG: 1.062 SG
Estimated Color: 7.6 SRM
Estimated IBU: 57.2 IBUs
Brewhouse Efficiency: 65.00 %
Est Mash Efficiency: 79.7 %
Boil Time: 60 Minutes
Ingredients:
------------
Amt Name Type # %/IBU
5 lbs 4.7 oz Pale Malt (2 Row) US (2.0 SRM) Grain 1 90.0 %
5.8 oz Pilsner (2 Row) Ger (2.0 SRM) Grain 2 6.1 %
3.6 oz Caramel/Crystal Malt - 80L (80.0 SRM) Grain 3 3.9 %
0.52 oz Chinook [13.00 %] - Boil 60.0 min Hop 4 47.5 IBUs
0.26 oz Chinook [13.00 %] - Boil 10.0 min Hop 5 8.6 IBUs
0.26 oz Chinook [13.00 %] - Boil 1.0 min Hop 6 1.0 IBUs
0.5 pkg Safale US 05 [50.00 ml] Yeast 7 -
0.23 oz Chinook [13.00 %] - Dry Hop 3.0 Days Hop 8 0.0 IBUs
Mash Schedule: BIAB, Full Body
Total Grain Weight: 5 lbs 14.1 oz
----------------------------
Name Description Step Temperat Step Time
Saccharification Add 16.20 qt of water at 162.2 F 156.0 F 60 min
Mash Out Heat to 168.0 F over 7 min 168.0 F 10 min
Sparge: Remove grains, and prepare to boil wort
Notes:
Post #1006 made 12 years ago
I finished with 3.20 gallons after my boil instead of 2.87. I hope I have given all the info you need. 
BeerSmith2 Errors
Post #1007 made 12 years ago
Hi again Fred 
,
That info you posted is great. This one is an easy recipe conversion but only because I have BeerSmith2 and can download the recipe. (Well, it wouldn't download from the link unfortunately even though there was a download button. Had to actually search for the recipe in the cloud and then the download button worked
).
Anyway, if I didn't have the above, I would have to use some guesswork as the cloud reports do not contain some critical numbers. As always, the main one missing is the EOBV-A. The only thing we have is 'Batch Size' and unfortunately some BeerSmith uses mean EOBV-A while others mean VIF. (It's a long story).
Moving on, I have downloaded and opened the recipe in BS2. By clicking on the red tick beside 'My Equipment', I can see that this particular brewer has no trub losses in his profile so by 37.85 L, he means EOBV-A. Now we are right to input the recipe.
Before I post the final scaled file, I want to post...
[center]The BIABacus in Recipe Detective Mode - Advanced Stuff)[/center]
You can skip this section Fred if you want to or maybe just give it a quick read. The following BIABacus file is set up to match the BeerSmith2 recipe. This is a good example of how matching a recipe without full knowledge of the original program and it's errors can lead to many mismatched numbers.If you look at the file above, you'll see I have used Section X to match the BeerSmith 2 profile.
Error 1: Note that I have had to set the moisture content of the grains to zero to get the grain bill matching on the left and right hand side? This is a BeerSmith error. If you own BeerSmith, you will notice that if you change the moisture content of a grain, it has no effect on your recipe. It should. This means that an all-grain recipe in BeerSmith2 (and maybe 1) is always around 4% out.
Error 2: Note that there is a discrepancy in the IBU estimates between the two 'programs' even though both programs are using the Tinseth formula. The reason for this is that BeerSmith 2 is using the pre-boil gravity instead of the original gravity in its calculations. Glenn Tinseth's original formula works on original gravity just like The BIABacus. (There's also a pellet utilisation difference as well. We have assumed that Glenn used flowers in his formula whereas BeerSmith assumes he used pellets. We'll be double-checking this again prior to final release but we are pretty sure we are correct on this pellet thing.)
[center]Back to Your Recipe[/center]
The following file is scaled Fred. If you did read the above section, you'll remember that I over-rode some defaults in The BIABacus. In this file I have removed all of them except for in Section Y where I have put in the correct extract potential adjustments. We'll come back to that. Here's your file... I would save this file under a different name and have a play around with it. For example, see how on the right hand side it says you will need 2574 grans of grain? Now go to Section Y and delete all the values there. Now it says you need 2541 grams for grain. This tells you that the auto-estimates for grain potential are working nicely and that in most recipes, you really don't need to worry about Section Y.
Also note that this recipe in The BIABAcus can be qquickly scaled by any brewer, usually just by changing the values in Section B. Easy!
Some other things you can play with are perhaps putting a Y beside Hopsock or Whirlpool in Section G. Either of these things will reduce your Kettle to Fermentor Loss (KFL).
If you have some actuals from your last brew (I saw one volume figure), you can try inputting them and you'll see some efficiency numbers in Section P pop up.
There's lots to explore but, really, in most cases, for most brewers, there's very little data you need to input to give you a safe estimate.
A Few Other Things
- That mash temperature looks a tad too high to me. I would be going 66 C (151 F) on that.
- I've changed the mash length to 90 minutes in accordance with the results on mash time we are getting here.
- I can't really check how you scaled the recipe in BeerSmith very well unless I had your actual file. As you can probably tell if you skimmed the advanced stuff, things like this are very difficult to check. They shouldn't be!
Hope that gets you under way.
PP
,That info you posted is great. This one is an easy recipe conversion but only because I have BeerSmith2 and can download the recipe. (Well, it wouldn't download from the link unfortunately even though there was a download button. Had to actually search for the recipe in the cloud and then the download button worked
).Anyway, if I didn't have the above, I would have to use some guesswork as the cloud reports do not contain some critical numbers. As always, the main one missing is the EOBV-A. The only thing we have is 'Batch Size' and unfortunately some BeerSmith uses mean EOBV-A while others mean VIF. (It's a long story
).Moving on, I have downloaded and opened the recipe in BS2. By clicking on the red tick beside 'My Equipment', I can see that this particular brewer has no trub losses in his profile so by 37.85 L, he means EOBV-A. Now we are right to input the recipe.
Before I post the final scaled file, I want to post...
[center]The BIABacus in Recipe Detective Mode - Advanced Stuff)[/center]
You can skip this section Fred if you want to or maybe just give it a quick read. The following BIABacus file is set up to match the BeerSmith2 recipe. This is a good example of how matching a recipe without full knowledge of the original program and it's errors can lead to many mismatched numbers.If you look at the file above, you'll see I have used Section X to match the BeerSmith 2 profile.
Error 1: Note that I have had to set the moisture content of the grains to zero to get the grain bill matching on the left and right hand side? This is a BeerSmith error. If you own BeerSmith, you will notice that if you change the moisture content of a grain, it has no effect on your recipe. It should. This means that an all-grain recipe in BeerSmith2 (and maybe 1) is always around 4% out.
Error 2: Note that there is a discrepancy in the IBU estimates between the two 'programs' even though both programs are using the Tinseth formula. The reason for this is that BeerSmith 2 is using the pre-boil gravity instead of the original gravity in its calculations. Glenn Tinseth's original formula works on original gravity just like The BIABacus. (There's also a pellet utilisation difference as well. We have assumed that Glenn used flowers in his formula whereas BeerSmith assumes he used pellets. We'll be double-checking this again prior to final release but we are pretty sure we are correct on this pellet thing.)
[center]Back to Your Recipe[/center]
The following file is scaled Fred. If you did read the above section, you'll remember that I over-rode some defaults in The BIABacus. In this file I have removed all of them except for in Section Y where I have put in the correct extract potential adjustments. We'll come back to that. Here's your file... I would save this file under a different name and have a play around with it. For example, see how on the right hand side it says you will need 2574 grans of grain? Now go to Section Y and delete all the values there. Now it says you need 2541 grams for grain. This tells you that the auto-estimates for grain potential are working nicely and that in most recipes, you really don't need to worry about Section Y.
Also note that this recipe in The BIABAcus can be qquickly scaled by any brewer, usually just by changing the values in Section B. Easy!
Some other things you can play with are perhaps putting a Y beside Hopsock or Whirlpool in Section G. Either of these things will reduce your Kettle to Fermentor Loss (KFL).
If you have some actuals from your last brew (I saw one volume figure), you can try inputting them and you'll see some efficiency numbers in Section P pop up.
There's lots to explore but, really, in most cases, for most brewers, there's very little data you need to input to give you a safe estimate.
A Few Other Things
- That mash temperature looks a tad too high to me. I would be going 66 C (151 F) on that.
- I've changed the mash length to 90 minutes in accordance with the results on mash time we are getting here.
- I can't really check how you scaled the recipe in BeerSmith very well unless I had your actual file. As you can probably tell if you skimmed the advanced stuff, things like this are very difficult to check. They shouldn't be!
Hope that gets you under way.
PP
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Last edited by PistolPatch on 23 Feb 2013, 19:49, edited 8 times in total.
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Post #1008 made 12 years ago
Fred (metalhophead): I'm doing some consecutive posts here. Just in case you miss it, your answer is above
Strengthnhealth:
Thanks for posting another actuals file and your notes. Here's a few quick things...
1. Yep, definitely save the file only as .xls as this extension seems to open without any problems in all the programs whereas weird stuff happens with .ods if you are using Excel. I actually couldn't open the file with Excel.
2. Once again, on the numbers, they are looking honest to me and you've done a great job at recording a good amount of them. Here's what I'd do on your next brew...
- See how on both brews, your evaporation rate is a bit higher than the BIABacus is predicting? (9.0L and 9.5 L over 90 minutes). I can't see any problem for your next brew in changing this in Section X to 6.15 l/hr. I wouldn't worry about floating the bowl.
- I wouldn't usually advise this after two brews but your files, posts etc are telling me that you are approaching things the right way. On your next brew, I would also have no problem if you adjusted the 'Auto-Efficiency' in Section X by -5%.
See how that goes over the next two brews. If this -5% adjustment gets the next few brew's actuals closer to the estimates then, after that, I'd start looking at the pH of your water so as we can see if we can get rid of that -5 eventually.
The cloudiness is also a possible indication that things might not be quite right with the water. I really wouldn't worry about it for now though as long as the beer is tasting good. However, Just reading about the hot water bit and...
- The hot tap water shouldn't really affect your efficiency but maybe it is? I would definitely avoid using hot tap water unless it is coming from an instantaneous gas hot water system as funny chemical stuff can happen in many hot water heaters. So cold water on the next few brews as well I reckon.
PP
P.S. I think everyone else is getting looked after. Cool!!!
Strengthnhealth:
Thanks for posting another actuals file and your notes. Here's a few quick things...
1. Yep, definitely save the file only as .xls as this extension seems to open without any problems in all the programs whereas weird stuff happens with .ods if you are using Excel. I actually couldn't open the file with Excel.
2. Once again, on the numbers, they are looking honest to me and you've done a great job at recording a good amount of them. Here's what I'd do on your next brew...
- See how on both brews, your evaporation rate is a bit higher than the BIABacus is predicting? (9.0L and 9.5 L over 90 minutes). I can't see any problem for your next brew in changing this in Section X to 6.15 l/hr. I wouldn't worry about floating the bowl.
- I wouldn't usually advise this after two brews but your files, posts etc are telling me that you are approaching things the right way. On your next brew, I would also have no problem if you adjusted the 'Auto-Efficiency' in Section X by -5%.
See how that goes over the next two brews. If this -5% adjustment gets the next few brew's actuals closer to the estimates then, after that, I'd start looking at the pH of your water so as we can see if we can get rid of that -5 eventually.
The cloudiness is also a possible indication that things might not be quite right with the water. I really wouldn't worry about it for now though as long as the beer is tasting good. However, Just reading about the hot water bit and...
- The hot tap water shouldn't really affect your efficiency but maybe it is? I would definitely avoid using hot tap water unless it is coming from an instantaneous gas hot water system as funny chemical stuff can happen in many hot water heaters. So cold water on the next few brews as well I reckon.
PP
P.S. I think everyone else is getting looked after. Cool!!!
Last edited by PistolPatch on 23 Feb 2013, 20:21, edited 7 times in total.
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Post #1009 made 12 years ago
Hello all,
Well, I brewed today using the BIABacus as my guide for the first time. I see there is a newer version now and will need to convert. I am going to attach my recipe here for anyone to scan or comment. I flew by the seat of my pants but I think it all worked out. I didn't get the full amount into the fermenter that i wanted, but I nailed the expected OG. My efficiencies are too good to be true...literally I think.
This recipe is from the moderator named Biermuncher at HomeBrewTalk. It's his Centennial Blonde ale. It might be a little lighter than I'm partial to, but is such a cheap, easy recipe that I thought I'd give it a go as warmer weather is on the horizon I have thoughts of racking this on some frozen raspberries later, but something wants me to stay true to the recipe for the first time. I pitched the Notty about 2 hours ago and it's already bubbling.
I learned a few things this time around:
1. Those large black paper clasps that some use to hold the bag at the top of the kettle. I found holes in the voile bag from the last brew. I heard mention of using bungee cords and tried that today. Worked like a charm. No additional holes.
2. I learned that out of 3 thermometers, none worked well for me. I had a cheapo digital with the long probe. It junked out in the middle of my mash today. Suddenly it went from reading 150F to the 120's for no reason. I jumped to a small stick thermometer, it was a good 6 degrees off. I grabbed my infra-red probe that I use to measure pizza oven temp's. It is very accurate but not for a kettle of foamy liquid. I really want to get a good thermometer that can be installed in my kettle.
3. 8 gallons is about my limit on water for mashing in my pot. I used 8.25 gallons plus my grain bill and it was right at the rim.
4. Without a sight glass, measuring volumes throughout the brewing process is spotty at best. I have a wooden dowel that I roughly marked off gallons on.
Thanks for any tips.
Well, I brewed today using the BIABacus as my guide for the first time. I see there is a newer version now and will need to convert. I am going to attach my recipe here for anyone to scan or comment. I flew by the seat of my pants but I think it all worked out. I didn't get the full amount into the fermenter that i wanted, but I nailed the expected OG. My efficiencies are too good to be true...literally I think.
This recipe is from the moderator named Biermuncher at HomeBrewTalk. It's his Centennial Blonde ale. It might be a little lighter than I'm partial to, but is such a cheap, easy recipe that I thought I'd give it a go as warmer weather is on the horizon
I have thoughts of racking this on some frozen raspberries later, but something wants me to stay true to the recipe for the first time. I pitched the Notty about 2 hours ago and it's already bubbling.I learned a few things this time around:
1. Those large black paper clasps that some use to hold the bag at the top of the kettle. I found holes in the voile bag from the last brew. I heard mention of using bungee cords and tried that today. Worked like a charm. No additional holes.
2. I learned that out of 3 thermometers, none worked well for me. I had a cheapo digital with the long probe. It junked out in the middle of my mash today. Suddenly it went from reading 150F to the 120's for no reason. I jumped to a small stick thermometer, it was a good 6 degrees off. I grabbed my infra-red probe that I use to measure pizza oven temp's. It is very accurate but not for a kettle of foamy liquid. I really want to get a good thermometer that can be installed in my kettle.
3. 8 gallons is about my limit on water for mashing in my pot. I used 8.25 gallons plus my grain bill and it was right at the rim.
4. Without a sight glass, measuring volumes throughout the brewing process is spotty at best. I have a wooden dowel that I roughly marked off gallons on.
Thanks for any tips.
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Post #1010 made 12 years ago
Great report BfF 
,
Here's a few things...
1. I'm a bit scared about sight glasses as to me it just seems another thing where wort can get trapped and cause infections? So, before going to that extreme...
Consider using a metal ruler and Section S and/or T - the depth and headspace section of The BIABacus. If your kettle is not level, make sure you take your depth measurement at the right place. Working off the headspace can make measurement a lot easier - less steamy.
These sections can be set up to handle kegs as well.
2. Good honest figures there. Make a note of where the discrepancies are and think if there is anything you can do to improve on the measurement side of things on your next brew. For example, 1 above, and, make sure you take time to cover and cool your hot gravity samples.
3.
on the thermometers. That is typical and one of the most important things to discover early in all-grain is not to trust a single instrument or reading.
4. Nothing to worry about on your 'end of the day' volumes and gravities. You couldn't ask for better than that. After a few brews if your KFL remains high, look at other ways of reducing it. (You have a Y beside Hopsock so I'm assuming you did use one?)
Nice job
,
PP
,Here's a few things...
1. I'm a bit scared about sight glasses as to me it just seems another thing where wort can get trapped and cause infections? So, before going to that extreme...
Consider using a metal ruler and Section S and/or T - the depth and headspace section of The BIABacus. If your kettle is not level, make sure you take your depth measurement at the right place. Working off the headspace can make measurement a lot easier - less steamy
.These sections can be set up to handle kegs as well.
2. Good honest figures there. Make a note of where the discrepancies are and think if there is anything you can do to improve on the measurement side of things on your next brew. For example, 1 above, and, make sure you take time to cover and cool your hot gravity samples.
3.
on the thermometers. That is typical and one of the most important things to discover early in all-grain is not to trust a single instrument or reading.4. Nothing to worry about on your 'end of the day' volumes and gravities. You couldn't ask for better than that. After a few brews if your KFL remains high, look at other ways of reducing it. (You have a Y beside Hopsock so I'm assuming you did use one?)
Nice job
,PP
Last edited by PistolPatch on 24 Feb 2013, 18:11, edited 7 times in total.
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Post #1011 made 12 years ago
Thanks PP.
Duh, never thought of measuring the headspace.
That should be much easier with a metal tape measure. I realized yesterday that placing a wooden dowel in chilled wort is just asking for infection, even if I sprayed it with starsan.
I am planning on selling my 10 gallon pot and going with something larger. At some point I may just go for a keggle versus large brewpot. I definitely want the built in thermometer and ball valve.
I did use a hop sack for the first time. I was hoping to cut down on trub, but still got quite a bit. I tried to whirlpool and let it sit for a half hour but it still settled out flat. I ended up tilting the pot and siphoning out what I could before drawing in trub.
The wort tastes pretty good though and she is bubbling away this morning
Duh, never thought of measuring the headspace.
That should be much easier with a metal tape measure. I realized yesterday that placing a wooden dowel in chilled wort is just asking for infection, even if I sprayed it with starsan. I am planning on selling my 10 gallon pot and going with something larger. At some point I may just go for a keggle versus large brewpot. I definitely want the built in thermometer and ball valve.
I did use a hop sack for the first time. I was hoping to cut down on trub, but still got quite a bit. I tried to whirlpool and let it sit for a half hour but it still settled out flat. I ended up tilting the pot and siphoning out what I could before drawing in trub.
The wort tastes pretty good though
and she is bubbling away this morning
Post #1012 made 12 years ago
Just on the headspace thing, if your kettle isn't level, make sure you take the depth from the 'average' point if that makes sense. (With depth, always measure in the centre of the kettle.)
Great idea on getting a kettle large enough for you to full-volume mash. It is the ultimate purpose of BIAB so go for it.
I'd forget the built-in thermometer. We've all wanted one but in real life, they aren't really of much value. Firstly, you have to calibrate them regularly. Secondly, the probe gets in the way of your bag etc. Thirdly, the temp won't be anywhere near accurate unless you stir the mash (or the strike water when you are looking for strike tempo). Fourthly, if you are stirring the mash anyway, why not just dangle a thermometer in there?
I use a thermometer with a probe that pierces a plastc lid that floats on top of the wort. Easy!
Stuff that looks good may not always serve you well which brings us to...
Ball-valves. Do a search of my posts here to find the pros and cons of these. You need to maintain them and often the maintenance time (and trouble) can cost you heaps. Putting a bit more thought into how to create a good syphon set-up will save you time and give you a lot more control than a ball-valve in nearly all situations so be careful not to dismiss it.
As mentioned, I have lots of rambles on here re this. I have both ball-valves and syphon. The control and speedy cleaning of syphon wins for me.
On the whirlpool, you'll need to wait until the wort cools a little and then you need to gradually build the whirlpool up with a very large spoon or something similiar. An electric drill, for example, won't work. Tricky stuff!
PP
Great idea on getting a kettle large enough for you to full-volume mash. It is the ultimate purpose of BIAB so go for it
.I'd forget the built-in thermometer. We've all wanted one but in real life, they aren't really of much value. Firstly, you have to calibrate them regularly. Secondly, the probe gets in the way of your bag etc. Thirdly, the temp won't be anywhere near accurate unless you stir the mash (or the strike water when you are looking for strike tempo). Fourthly, if you are stirring the mash anyway, why not just dangle a thermometer in there?
I use a thermometer with a probe that pierces a plastc lid that floats on top of the wort. Easy!
Stuff that looks good may not always serve you well which brings us to...
Ball-valves. Do a search of my posts here to find the pros and cons of these. You need to maintain them and often the maintenance time (and trouble) can cost you heaps. Putting a bit more thought into how to create a good syphon set-up will save you time and give you a lot more control than a ball-valve in nearly all situations so be careful not to dismiss it.
As mentioned, I have lots of rambles on here re this. I have both ball-valves and syphon. The control and speedy cleaning of syphon wins for me.
On the whirlpool, you'll need to wait until the wort cools a little and then you need to gradually build the whirlpool up with a very large spoon or something similiar. An electric drill, for example, won't work. Tricky stuff!
PP
Last edited by PistolPatch on 24 Feb 2013, 23:38, edited 7 times in total.
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Post #1013 made 12 years ago
Making this FWH SMaSH. Hope no mistakes. Posted it on FWH thread but then took it off as I remembered only supposed to post biabacuses here.
I really like working with BIABacus.
Thanks!
I really like working with BIABacus.
Thanks!
You do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post.
Guinges
Post #1014 made 12 years ago
Hey PP
I'll definitely try your suggestions on my next batch, prob in a couple of weeks.
With the hot tap water I was more thinking it effected the volumes as I wouldn't of had enough water in at the start of the mash.
I haven't had any prob with clarity in any of my extract brews in the past so not sure if ph is the prob.
The only prob with using cold water is the time & cost to heat it but will try it if you think it will make a difference.
Keith
I'll definitely try your suggestions on my next batch, prob in a couple of weeks.
With the hot tap water I was more thinking it effected the volumes as I wouldn't of had enough water in at the start of the mash.
I haven't had any prob with clarity in any of my extract brews in the past so not sure if ph is the prob.
The only prob with using cold water is the time & cost to heat it but will try it if you think it will make a difference.
Keith
Post #1015 made 12 years ago
I've looked at the scaled down recipe in the biabicus you gave me. I have a few questions. My measurements of my brewpot end up not equaling 5 gallons (19 liters) which I know it is. Should I just fiddle around with the numbers until it says 19 liters?
The biabicus looks pretty straight forward. I have found a new recipe I would like to brew. I wlll attempt to scale it with the biabicus and post it in the forum and hopefully someone can tell me how I did. Thanks.
Fred
The biabicus looks pretty straight forward. I have found a new recipe I would like to brew. I wlll attempt to scale it with the biabicus and post it in the forum and hopefully someone can tell me how I did. Thanks.
Fred
Post #1016 made 12 years ago
Good! It must have taken Pat three hours of writing to convince you the best way to learn was to just play with the damn thingGuingesRock wrote:Making this FWH SMaSH. Hope no mistakes. Posted it on FWH thread but then took it off as I remembered only supposed to post biabacuses here.
I really like working with BIABacus.
Thanks!
. Look where you are now!!!That file is perfectly filled out
.Hold on, just found one thing... As a general rule, put your bittering additions in at the top of the hop bill, then your flavour and then aroma additions. That's the convention. When dealing with FWH in THe BIABAcus, all you can do is type in the FWH beside the addition you are moving to FWH which brings me to...
We know very little about FWH but normally you move your late addition hops to FWH. In your file, you have moved the bittering hops (the 60 min hops) to FWH. Who really knows if this is a good or bad thing?
PP
Last edited by PistolPatch on 25 Feb 2013, 04:58, edited 7 times in total.
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Post #1017 made 12 years ago
Keith and Fred...
Strenghtnhealth
Use the [Hot} Strike Water Needed (SWN) value next time you are filling up with hot water.
What sort of hot water heater have you got? (Hot water in extract brewing is less of a problem than with all-grain as with extract, the mashing has already been done.)
I'd avoid using the hot water (unless it is instantaneous gas) for at least your next few brews o as we can see if anything changes.
metalhophead
Nup, don't change the numbers! What happens with stockpots is that they often label them as what sort of quantity you can reasonably cook in them not their actual capacity. If you have measured your pot dimensions properly, the BIABacus capacity will be right.
There are actually lots of dodgy measuring jugs etc out there. I have a 4 L one here that holds 3 L - serious! If you really want to check the capacity of a pot, do it by weighing the water you are putting into it. Every litre should weigh a kilogram.
Even my proper 5L measuring jugs are a few hundred ml out.
Strenghtnhealth
Use the [Hot} Strike Water Needed (SWN) value next time you are filling up with hot water.
What sort of hot water heater have you got? (Hot water in extract brewing is less of a problem than with all-grain as with extract, the mashing has already been done.)
I'd avoid using the hot water (unless it is instantaneous gas) for at least your next few brews o as we can see if anything changes.
metalhophead
Nup, don't change the numbers! What happens with stockpots is that they often label them as what sort of quantity you can reasonably cook in them not their actual capacity. If you have measured your pot dimensions properly, the BIABacus capacity will be right.
There are actually lots of dodgy measuring jugs etc out there. I have a 4 L one here that holds 3 L - serious! If you really want to check the capacity of a pot, do it by weighing the water you are putting into it. Every litre should weigh a kilogram.
Even my proper 5L measuring jugs are a few hundred ml out.
Last edited by PistolPatch on 25 Feb 2013, 05:09, edited 7 times in total.
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Post #1018 made 12 years ago
Hmm I'm already confused. When inputing the grain bill what is ebc? The recipe says specific SRM's. What is SRM? Also the Pale Malt says Pale malt (2 row)Bel (3.2 SRM. Does that mean its a belgian pale malt and not normal two row?
BeerSmith's Wit (3 ratings)
All Grain Recipe
Submitted By: BeerSmith (Shared)
Members can download and share recipes
Brewer: Brad Smith
Batch Size: 10.00 gal Style: Witbier (16A)
Boil Size: 12.57 gal Style Guide: BJCP 2008
Color: 3.9 SRM Equipment: Pot and Cooler (10 Gal/37.8 L) - All Grain
Bitterness: 19.2 IBUs Boil Time: 60 min
Est OG: 1.049 (12.0° P) Mash Profile: Single Infusion, Medium Body, No Mash Out
Est FG: 1.012 SG (3.0° P) Fermentation: Ale, Two Stage
ABV: 4.9% Taste Rating: 47.0
Ingredients
Amount Name Type #
9 lbs 6.0 oz Pale Malt (2 Row) Bel (3.2 SRM) Grain 1
9 lbs 6.0 oz Wheat, Flaked (1.6 SRM) Grain 2
2.1 oz Goldings, East Kent [5.0%] - Boil 60 min Hops 3
1.50 oz Coriander Seed (Boil 5 min) Misc 4
1.50 oz Orange Peel, Bitter (Boil 5 min) Misc 5
1 pkgs Belgian Wit Ale (White Labs #WLP400) Yeast 6
Taste Notes
Great tasting Wit! A summer favorite! Lacy white head that lasts and lasts. Distinctive, light wheat beer with a hint of spice.
Notes
Many thanks to Jay Russ for starting me on Wit - and providing some starter recipes from which this one eventually evolved!
Ratings
BeerSmith's Wit (3 ratings)
All Grain Recipe
Submitted By: BeerSmith (Shared)
Members can download and share recipes
Brewer: Brad Smith
Batch Size: 10.00 gal Style: Witbier (16A)
Boil Size: 12.57 gal Style Guide: BJCP 2008
Color: 3.9 SRM Equipment: Pot and Cooler (10 Gal/37.8 L) - All Grain
Bitterness: 19.2 IBUs Boil Time: 60 min
Est OG: 1.049 (12.0° P) Mash Profile: Single Infusion, Medium Body, No Mash Out
Est FG: 1.012 SG (3.0° P) Fermentation: Ale, Two Stage
ABV: 4.9% Taste Rating: 47.0
Ingredients
Amount Name Type #
9 lbs 6.0 oz Pale Malt (2 Row) Bel (3.2 SRM) Grain 1
9 lbs 6.0 oz Wheat, Flaked (1.6 SRM) Grain 2
2.1 oz Goldings, East Kent [5.0%] - Boil 60 min Hops 3
1.50 oz Coriander Seed (Boil 5 min) Misc 4
1.50 oz Orange Peel, Bitter (Boil 5 min) Misc 5
1 pkgs Belgian Wit Ale (White Labs #WLP400) Yeast 6
Taste Notes
Great tasting Wit! A summer favorite! Lacy white head that lasts and lasts. Distinctive, light wheat beer with a hint of spice.
Notes
Many thanks to Jay Russ for starting me on Wit - and providing some starter recipes from which this one eventually evolved!
Ratings
Post #1019 made 12 years ago
Thanks PP. Don’t call it a “damn thing” though. I love it!PistolPatch wrote:Good! It must have taken Pat three hours of writing to convince you the best way to learn was to just play with the damn thingGuingesRock wrote:Making this FWH SMaSH. Hope no mistakes. Posted it on FWH thread but then took it off as I remembered only supposed to post biabacuses here.
I really like working with BIABacus.
Thanks!
That file is perfectly filled out
Hold on, just found one thing... As a general rule, put your bittering additions in at the top of the hop bill, then your flavour and then aroma additions. That's the convention. When dealing with FWH in THe BIABAcus, all you can do is type in the FWH beside the addition you are moving to FWH which brings me to...
We know very little about FWH but normally you move your late addition hops to FWH. In your file, you have moved the bittering hops (the 60 min hops) to FWH. Who really knows if this is a good or bad thing?
PP
I’m a stubborn bugger I know.
I updated it with the actual EOBV-A from the brew today and adjusted the OG etc. so the spreadsheet represented the same hop and grain bill that was used but with with the new EOBV-A.
Biabacus had the strike temp right, which impressed me.
Wow! That wort was hoppy. I’m excited.
Pre-boil SH was 1.060. Post-boil was 1.068
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Last edited by GuingesRock on 25 Feb 2013, 05:27, edited 7 times in total.
Guinges
Post #1020 made 12 years ago
Good stuff GR!
This thread (and whole site actually) is meant to be all about paying it forward so...
GR, you are creaming the BIABacus in so I can see no reason why you can't get metalhophead up and running with his EBC /SRM question above.
(I am so far behind on some stuff here that I will have no time to help here for the next 2 days.)
metalhophead: Remember how in the last BeerSmith file I did for you we talked about EOBV-A? You'll need to open the original BeerSmith file like I did to find that number. (It won't be the Batch Size on this recipe like it was on the last one.)
Have answered your pot size question two posts above in case you missed it.
GR should be able to sort you on the grain colour thing.
This thread (and whole site actually) is meant to be all about paying it forward so...
GR, you are creaming the BIABacus in so I can see no reason why you can't get metalhophead up and running with his EBC /SRM question above.
(I am so far behind on some stuff here that I will have no time to help here for the next 2 days.)
metalhophead: Remember how in the last BeerSmith file I did for you we talked about EOBV-A? You'll need to open the original BeerSmith file like I did to find that number. (It won't be the Batch Size on this recipe like it was on the last one.)
Have answered your pot size question two posts above in case you missed it.
GR should be able to sort you on the grain colour thing.
Last edited by PistolPatch on 25 Feb 2013, 05:43, edited 7 times in total.
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Post #1021 made 12 years ago
I was up most of the night last night with my wife (we got a baby sitter and went out on the town)and I don't have a brain this evening and my 3 year old is constantly clamouring for me to play at the moment. I will help when I can, but I wonder if I can ask Yeasty, Mally, MS or someone else who is getting the hang of it, to do that one in case metalhophead needs it today. How do you think at 4.00 am PP?
Guinges
Post #1022 made 12 years ago
Hey Metal,metalhophead wrote:Hmm I'm already confused. When inputing the grain bill what is ebc? The recipe says specific SRM's. What is SRM? Also the Pale Malt says Pale malt (2 row)Bel (3.2 SRM. Does that mean its a belgian pale malt and not normal two row?
BeerSmith's Wit (3 ratings)
All Grain Recipe
Submitted By: BeerSmith (Shared)
Members can download and share recipes
Brewer: Brad Smith
Batch Size: 10.00 gal Style: Witbier (16A)
Boil Size: 12.57 gal Style Guide: BJCP 2008
Color: 3.9 SRM Equipment: Pot and Cooler (10 Gal/37.8 L) - All Grain
Bitterness: 19.2 IBUs Boil Time: 60 min
Est OG: 1.049 (12.0° P) Mash Profile: Single Infusion, Medium Body, No Mash Out
Est FG: 1.012 SG (3.0° P) Fermentation: Ale, Two Stage
ABV: 4.9% Taste Rating: 47.0
Ingredients
Amount Name Type #
9 lbs 6.0 oz Pale Malt (2 Row) Bel (3.2 SRM) Grain 1
9 lbs 6.0 oz Wheat, Flaked (1.6 SRM) Grain 2
2.1 oz Goldings, East Kent [5.0%] - Boil 60 min Hops 3
1.50 oz Coriander Seed (Boil 5 min) Misc 4
1.50 oz Orange Peel, Bitter (Boil 5 min) Misc 5
1 pkgs Belgian Wit Ale (White Labs #WLP400) Yeast 6
Taste Notes
Great tasting Wit! A summer favorite! Lacy white head that lasts and lasts. Distinctive, light wheat beer with a hint of spice.
Notes
Many thanks to Jay Russ for starting me on Wit - and providing some starter recipes from which this one eventually evolved!
Ratings
I am drinking a Wit right now. It is quickly becoming my favorite beer. Summer or winter time. Just a tip I learned after my last Wit brew. Make sure the coriander you use is meant for brewing. I used supermarket stuff only to find out there are two types. The brewing type gives the beer the flavor you want. The supermarket stuff has a veggital flavor you don't want.
If you go to the Hoegaarden website they will tell you that its the coriander that gives the beer that orange/citrus flavor. Supposedly, the dried orange peel imparts the bitter flavor and not the orange flavor the beer has. Quite interesting. I like Hoegaarden but find the coriander flavor overpowering. My next batch I will use the right type and only about .5 oz for a 5 gallon batch.
I also used a pilsner malt instead of 2 row. Thought it would be worth a try. Came out great.
Last edited by BabyfaceFinster on 25 Feb 2013, 06:15, edited 7 times in total.
Post #1023 made 12 years ago
PistolPatch wrote:Just on the headspace thing, if your kettle isn't level, make sure you take the depth from the 'average' point if that makes sense. (With depth, always measure in the centre of the kettle.)
Great idea on getting a kettle large enough for you to full-volume mash. It is the ultimate purpose of BIAB so go for it
I'd forget the built-in thermometer. We've all wanted one but in real life, they aren't really of much value. Firstly, you have to calibrate them regularly. Secondly, the probe gets in the way of your bag etc. Thirdly, the temp won't be anywhere near accurate unless you stir the mash (or the strike water when you are looking for strike tempo). Fourthly, if you are stirring the mash anyway, why not just dangle a thermometer in there?
I use a thermometer with a probe that pierces a plastc lid that floats on top of the wort. Easy!
Stuff that looks good may not always serve you well which brings us to...
Ball-valves. Do a search of my posts here to find the pros and cons of these. You need to maintain them and often the maintenance time (and trouble) can cost you heaps. Putting a bit more thought into how to create a good syphon set-up will save you time and give you a lot more control than a ball-valve in nearly all situations so be careful not to dismiss it.
As mentioned, I have lots of rambles on here re this. I have both ball-valves and syphon. The control and speedy cleaning of syphon wins for me.
On the whirlpool, you'll need to wait until the wort cools a little and then you need to gradually build the whirlpool up with a very large spoon or something similiar. An electric drill, for example, won't work. Tricky stuff!
PP
Like the plastic lid floaty idea. I just need to find a probe thermometer that is accurate.
Thanks again PP
so do you just use one of those cane shaped siphons that usually comes with a beer kit? I have one and it works well, but it's a bit slow.
Last edited by BabyfaceFinster on 25 Feb 2013, 06:24, edited 7 times in total.
Post #1024 made 12 years ago
Are you inputting this into the BIABacus and wanting to convert SRM's into EBC's? Go to the 2nd sheet 'unit conversion' and in the 'color conversion section type the SRM # into the first row and read across to the right to get your EBC #, i.e. 3.2 SRM = 6.3 EBC.metalhophead wrote:Hmm I'm already confused. When inputing the grain bill what is ebc? The recipe says specific SRM's. What is SRM? Also the Pale Malt says Pale malt (2 row)Bel (3.2 SRM. Does that mean its a belgian pale malt and not normal two row?
Those are two beer color standards, EBC is European Brewery Convention.
Last edited by Mad_Scientist on 25 Feb 2013, 06:53, edited 7 times in total.
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Post #1025 made 12 years ago
GuingesRock and BabyfaceFinster, you may have missed this in PP's last post.
Older forum members will always give you priority but it is important to consider that every question you can answer yourself, or amongst yourselves, is time that can be added directly to re-structuring the forum.
We hope you will all make a conscious effort to help in this process by asking and answering questions with the best quality you can.
Nuff
See if you can answer each other's questions or, before asking a question, search old posts for your answers. It's especially important at the moment and over the coming months that you do this as we have a lot of work behind the scenes that we need some of the older forum members to focus on.PistolPatch wrote:I am so far behind on some stuff here that I will have no time to help here for the next 2 days
Older forum members will always give you priority but it is important to consider that every question you can answer yourself, or amongst yourselves, is time that can be added directly to re-structuring the forum.
We hope you will all make a conscious effort to help in this process by asking and answering questions with the best quality you can.
Nuff
Last edited by Nuff on 25 Feb 2013, 07:09, edited 7 times in total.
