BeerSmith 2 & First Wort Hopping

Post #1 made 13 years ago
Hi Folks,

I use BeerSmith2, and as I no chill I offset my hop additions by 15 minutes.
e.g. BeerSmith Recipe would have an addition at 60 minutes but the actual addition would be done at 45 minutes.
Based on the principal that the hops stay in hot contact for about 15 mins longer than wort chilling.
I use pellets and no hop sock.

I would like to try some FWH.
My understanding is that I can do this after mash out when the bag is raised.
The crown urn would probably take 15-20 minutes to get to the boil at this point.

My question is what do I enter for the time for my FWH addition?
I suppose to be consistent with my other additions I should us my 15 minute offset.
However, do I also need to add the total time including the temperature rise.
I was thinking that it would be the time the hops are in the wort plus 15 minutes offset?
Does this sound right?

Thanks again!
On Tap: ESB,Oatmeal Stout, APA
Primary: APA x 2
Cubed: Nowt

26/07/12

Post #2 made 13 years ago
Hey there dicko ;),

I have to shoot out the door shortly so here's a quick crack.

Firstly, BeerSmith increases the hop bitterness by 10% whilst ProMash decreases it by 10% and you could say both of them are right :). While FWH measure higher in IBU's in the laboratory, they are generally not perceived as more bitter on the tongue. In the BIABacus we will be using the middle ground of no change in bitterness. In other words, the FWH will be show the same bitterness number as the same hop added at the start of the boil.

As for the no-chill side of things, in the BIABAcus, we are taking a different approach that looks more at your trub management practices. The main things we are looking at are time before chilling starts and for how long the hops remain in contact with the wort after the boil ends. What I'm trying to say is that a no-chill managed a certain way will give the same utilisation as a chilled brew managed a certain way. (A lot of guys with chillers for example will let their brew sit for 20-30 mins after the boil and then whirlpool and then counter flow chill. What's the difference between that and the way some people no-chill?)

So bear the above in mind when you do any hop time adjustments.

The main thing with FWH is to design the recipe as normal and then move a proportion of the hop bill (usually 30%) to the FWH position. Often, this 30% is taken entirely from the flavour and aroma additons. (Do a Google on that I reckon. Here's one link for you.)

Let us know how you go with it :peace:,
PP
Last edited by PistolPatch on 02 Jul 2012, 17:35, edited 4 times in total.
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Post #3 made 13 years ago
Hi PP,

Thanks for the quick reply.
Very interesting reading!

Another thing that confuses me is BeerSmith's 0 min additions contributing no IBU's!

My trub management goes as far as using Whirfloc 10 minutes before the end of the boil.
I then leave the wort to settle for about 10 minutes.
Then I run the wort into the cube via the tap on the urn through a silicon hose.

I guess the reason I was asking about FWH was all of my beers just seem to be overly bitter.
Was thinking moving away from cube hopping and introducing FWH may smooth out the bitterness and introduce some balance. :headhit:

Cheers!
On Tap: ESB,Oatmeal Stout, APA
Primary: APA x 2
Cubed: Nowt

26/07/12

Post #4 made 13 years ago
Hey mate ;),

Can't write too much now which is probably good [Edit: Tis post didn't go to plan so put your seat belt on for a few random thoughts on this subject - lol.] as I don't have any solid answers atm. Still need to do a lot more investigating. For example, this morning I found a professional brewing thread on the subject. Have a read of this post here by Scotty.

I haven't had a chance to read that thread slowly but you can see that Scotty has the same question as you. The other thing that struck me was if professional brewers all whirlpool hot for such a long time, why are no-chillers making any adjustments at all? Maybe all brewers should be letting their brews sit before even turning on the chiller?

When I get a chance, I'll probably write to Scotty as he's really helpful and probably I'll speak to some other professional brewers as well (hopefully on Saturday) re this whole area.

Does the above make you see this whole area from a different perspective though rather than just a chill versus no-chill thing?

...

As for smoothing out the hop bitterness, the FWH is definitely one thing to try. (Or maybe just use less bittering hops???). Crusty also wrote here in the last week or so about using a hop tea instead of dry hopping. I'm not sure how this compares to cube hopping though?

Personally I think many home-brewed beers in the APA and IPA category are over-hopped and lack balance. I suspect that this might be the result of judges being asked to taste so many beers at once. One judge told me that palate fatigue is very common so in categories like this, throwing in a few extra hops can often 'interest' the palate at that stage and the over-hopped beer wins the day. Who knows?

...

Another hop management technique not to be ignored is to use your BIABbag as a hop sock and then pull it say 5 minutes after the boil end. I've done this on my last 8 brews and have chilled 4 and 'no-chilled' 4. A few of us are meeting up at my place on Sat to triangle test one of these side by sides. Keep an eye on this thread for the results.

...

I think until we gather some more knowledge from professional brewers and do some more experiments, we shouldn't be going too overboard on over-thinking and adjusting hop formulas. The hop formulas in many programs are incorrect anyway. For example, at time of writing, three of the most commonly used brewing programs have one or both of the following errors in their Tinseth formulas...

1. They use Volume into Fermentor instead of End of Boil Volume at Ambient in their calcs.

2. They use Pre-Boil Gravity instead of End of Boil Gravity in their calcs.

So it's important to not give too much respect to brewing numbers especially in the IBU area.

Even though the BIABAcus will use formulas with no errors, the estimates will only be estimates. The base formulas used in the home brewing world for things like colour and bitterness, even when written correctly, are extremely primitive and cannot replace your senses, let alone common sense. The best they can do is get you playing ball safely.

I think that considering the number of posts I write in the style above I should be called PontificatingPatch instead of PistolPatch.

:lol: :lol: :lol:
PP
Last edited by PistolPatch on 03 Jul 2012, 21:03, edited 4 times in total.
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Post #5 made 13 years ago
dicko wrote:Another thing that confuses me is BeerSmith's 0 min additions contributing no IBU's!
0 minute hop additions add aroma. With no boiling, there is no isomerization of the alpha acids in the hops and therefore no contribution to bittering.
Last edited by smyrnaquince on 04 Jul 2012, 00:32, edited 4 times in total.

Post #6 made 13 years ago
But, that is not right Smyrna*. (Software will tell you it is right but it is not).

There is isometrization after the boil. The problem is that we don't know enough about it so dicko's questions are really valid ones.

I'd love to say a lot more but I won't. Hops (in fact a lot of things in brewing cannot be formulated). If you study hop formulas and speak to professional brewers, it's a totally grey area. I am going to try and think of an analogy for this (and colour).

This whole bitterness area is really very messy. Have a look here for a start.

:shock:
PP

* 98.5% of brewers would rightly think the same as Smyrna who also contributes a lot behind the scenes to the BIABacus. So, it is a hard area.
Last edited by PistolPatch on 04 Jul 2012, 02:13, edited 4 times in total.
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Post #7 made 13 years ago
I am slowly working my way through the archived Brewing Network Sunday Sessions and have heard some pro and top ranked amateurs state that they believe 0 minute additions add IBU's, they just aren't sure how to quantify them.

Like PP say's"Grey area"
AWOL

Post #8 made 13 years ago
PistolPatch wrote:Does the above make you see this whole area from a different perspective though rather than just a chill versus no-chill thing?
Yes it does! I have read this recently somewhere and it is making me think that I am simply making things more complicated than they need to be!

I understand that the IBU calculations are really just a number to assign to allow us to put a stake in the ground. Giving us the ability to adjust from this initial value on a scale if the recipe so requires.

Therefore I am going to use the software as if I am not using the no-chill method.
So long as I am consistent..... what could possibly go wrong?! :headhit:
PistolPatch wrote:Another hop management technique not to be ignored is to use your BIABbag as a hop sock and then pull it say 5 minutes after the boil end. I've done this on my last 8 brews and have chilled 4 and 'no-chilled' 4. A few of us are meeting up at my place on Sat to triangle test one of these side by sides. Keep an eye on this thread for the results.
I do have a hop sock but felt that the hop pellets were too restricted. The BIAB bag would work! Not sure about scorching though? I use a Crown URN with concealed element.

I will keep an eye on your chill vs no-chill thread!

Thanks again everyone.
Last edited by dicko on 04 Jul 2012, 08:30, edited 4 times in total.
On Tap: ESB,Oatmeal Stout, APA
Primary: APA x 2
Cubed: Nowt

26/07/12

Post #9 made 13 years ago
Lylo: I will listen to those. Thank you.

dicko: That sounds like a perfect plan. As for using the mash bag as a hop sock, I just hang it in the kettle (not draped over the sides though) from my hook so that it drifts lazily around the boil and away from the bottom. It seems to work fine.

Didn't have a chance today to call/invite the pro brewer to Saturday's tasting - too busy dealing with a barley wine bomb I set off :roll: :smoke:. Will let you know though what I can find out on this area.

;)
PP
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Post #10 made 13 years ago
PP you don,t just listen to those.The shows run from 2 to 4 hrs in length and are archived back to early 2005 at 1 show a week!
A major project but a great way to break up a long drive!
AWOL

Post #11 made 13 years ago
I just kegged an experimental Citra/Amarillo APA and have some input on the subject of this thread. This was a 5 gallon no-chill batch (6.5 gal into the kettle). Grain bill was 9.5 pounds of pale malt and half pound each of carapils, c-20, vienna, and munich. As to the hops, I did a FWH with .5oz Citra (13.9%aa) and .5 oz Amarillo (10.1%aa) and dry hopped for 5 days with 1 oz of both Citra and Amarillo after fermenting for 2 weeks.

That's right, no "real" bittering addition or boil hops.....just a FWH and a dry hop! BS2 says the FWH would give me 41 IBU's (Tinseth with the default BS2 10% FWH compensation), which is where I like my APA's. I would have to say that the hydrometer sample tasted excellent, off-hand I would rate the "perceived" bitterness to be at least 40 IBU or more. It's bitter but a very smooth bitterness, can't wait for this one to carb up.

I'm sure that the experts would tell me that only doing a FWH and no other boil additions would surely not sufficiently bitter the beer. So.....to heck with what the "experts" say, do your own thing and come to your own conclusions.


---Todd
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Post #12 made 13 years ago
I'm sure that the experts would tell me that only doing a FWH and no other boil additions would surely not sufficiently bitter the beer. So.....to heck with what the "experts" say, do your own thing and come to your own conclusions.
That is one of the many things that makes the hobby so enjoyable!
I have lots of things to try now. Just gotta wait for this Amarillo Pale Ale to finish... :whistle:
Last edited by dicko on 05 Jul 2012, 11:18, edited 4 times in total.
On Tap: ESB,Oatmeal Stout, APA
Primary: APA x 2
Cubed: Nowt

26/07/12

Post #14 made 13 years ago
Todd,
I am very interested on how this comes out! I have been wondering a lot about the way we have been hopping our beers? Like I said at the end of the Podcast about late additions (http://www.basicbrewing.com/index.php?page=radio). I am thinking of FWH and dry hopping only? Both ends and not the middle!!!
Last edited by BobBrews on 06 Jul 2012, 05:47, edited 4 times in total.
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Post #15 made 13 years ago
BobBrews wrote:I am thinking of FWH and dry hopping only? Both ends and not the middle!!!
Most people seem to be indicating that FWH gives a much smoother bitterness.
Although I thought that dry hopping gave a different hop flavour, more grassy like.
When do you perform the dry hop? Can it be in primary?
Last edited by dicko on 06 Jul 2012, 06:55, edited 4 times in total.
On Tap: ESB,Oatmeal Stout, APA
Primary: APA x 2
Cubed: Nowt

26/07/12

Post #16 made 13 years ago
dicko,

Dry hopping is done after the primary fermentation is done. Lets say about two weeks? You can either dry hop in the primary if your dumping the yeast cake or transfer to a secondary and dry hop there if you are reusing the yeast cake. As long as the fermentation is finished you can dry hop anywhere. There is no penalty for dry hopping in the primary as long as the scrubbing action of the bubbles has ceased! You can leave the dry hops in the beer until the kegging or bottling is to be done. (one or two weeks)? I have never had a grassy tasting beer yet but my memory is fading like old hoppy beer!
tap 1 Raspberry wine
tap 2 Bourbon Barrel Porter
tap 3 Czech Pilsner
tap 4 Triple IPA 11% ABV

Pipeline: Mulled Cider 10% ABV

http://cheesestradamus.com/ Brewers challenge!
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Post #17 made 13 years ago
BobBrews wrote:Todd,
I am very interested on how this comes out! I have been wondering a lot about the way we have been hopping our beers? Like I said at the end of the Podcast about late additions (http://www.basicbrewing.com/index.php?page=radio). I am thinking of FWH and dry hopping only? Both ends and not the middle!!!
Hey Bob, you should definitly try this!

I'm having my second "test" glass now. I don't force carb (I use the "set and forget" method) so it'll be another week or two before it's fully carbed, but.....

.....it tastes awesome! There is a huge hop flavor and aroma (Citra and Amarillo play very nice together) and it is definitely bittered sufficiently. I must say that the bittering is very interesting: it's very smooth/subtle yet it leaves the back of your tongue numb....almost like taking a swig of hop tea or chewing on a hop flower.

I'll report back again once it carbs up and let you know how it has progressed (if there is any left by then, think I'll have another glass right now). :whistle:

PS: I think I need to do another batch of this and throw in some Cascade and Centennial to the mix...it'll be a huge "C" hop bomb! Weeeee!


---Todd
Last edited by thughes on 07 Jul 2012, 05:47, edited 4 times in total.
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Post #18 made 13 years ago
Todd,

I am excited because you are excited! I know we are on to something! The only problem I have is that I have a full keggarator! I will have to either start drinking more or start drinking more! It's hard to choose? I am serious about experimenting with this method! Don't tell (PP) but I might even record gravity?? I will write it down, on paper, in ink!!!! I even bought a pH meter to test my water! My God, am I going over to the dark side? (numbers) Nah! Not hardly!

I need to brew twice and have someone (else) give an impartial comparison test! I have a demonstration BIAB brew coming up at the end of the month. Maybe I will brew twice since I will be brewing next to a 3V demonstration and extract demo. I like to brew more than once to piss off the 3V'er's. The local brew shop is donating the grain and yeast! I can see that I might screw up the beers because I almost always do when I brew "on the road"! I will have to be careful!
Last edited by BobBrews on 07 Jul 2012, 22:20, edited 4 times in total.
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tap 3 Czech Pilsner
tap 4 Triple IPA 11% ABV

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Post #20 made 13 years ago
You forgot option #3 to make space in your kegerator: drink more! I'm only one man and tend to have way more beer on hand than I can handle. My brother helps when he can but it's not often enough. The problem is that I like to experiment and therefore brew way more than I can drink. I bottle a lot of it and have a cellar for storage, so that helps except when I am experimenting with beers that need to be consumed fresh....like these hop bombs I have been playing with lately.

I've managed to clear my kegerator with the exception of the above mentioned experimental and a keg of my Sock Monkey stout. Think I'll haul the keg of stout to work for a "tasting" party (there are several home brewers in our company) to get rid of it. I need the space for a double batch of blonde ale I brewed for a friends picnic at the end of the month (kegging that today).

I do have two 3 gallon kegs and a small apartment fridge that I use for a mini-kegerator, it holds one 3 gallon keg and a 5# CO2 bottle comfortably (but not enough room for 2 kegs). I've been using that setup and stovetop BIAB to perfect my hop bombs and then scaling to 5 gallons. I really should just stick with the 3 gallon batches as I can get through one of those by myself in @ 3 weeks to a month.

If you're curious, PM me your mailing address and I'll see about sending you a sample of when it carbs up. If you like it perhaps you can mention me in your next National radio or TV interview?

---Todd
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Post #21 made 13 years ago
I got impatient and cranked the gas up to 30 psi overnight. Dialed it back down and purged this morning, it's pretty well carbonated now and has a nice head. Guess I better get a bottle or two off to BB before I drink it all.
Image
Last edited by thughes on 08 Jul 2012, 09:23, edited 4 times in total.
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Post #22 made 13 years ago
I've been thinking/reading studying aspects of this thread on and off for almost a month now. I think there is a real problem with what existing software does with first wort hops (FWH) when estimating the IBU's. Let's take the following simple hop schedule from this recipe...

Hop 1: US Amarillo - 8.9AA% - 15.0 IBUs - 21.0 g at 60 min
Hop 2: US Amarillo - 8.9AA% - 11.6 IBUs - 26.8 g at 20 min
Hop 3: US Amarillo - 8.9AA% - 4.3 IBUs - 30.3 g at 5 min

Total = 30.8 IBU's (existing 'The Calculator' hop formula)

Now let's change it to a FWH recipe by taking away 30% of the hop bill, by weight, (starting with the aroma hops) and moving them to the FWH position. ...

FWH: US Amarillo - 8.9AA% - 15.0 IBUs - 23.4 g at 60 min
Hop 1: US Amarillo - 8.9AA% - 15.0 IBUs - 21.0 g at 60 min
Hop 2: US Amarillo - 8.9AA% - 11.6 IBUs - 26.8 g at 20 min
Hop 3: US Amarillo - 8.9AA% - 4.3 IBUs - 6.9 g at 5 min

Total = 47.1 IBU's (16.3 IBU's higher :o)

[EDIT: See post #24 below for a correction to the above. Principle remains the same though.]

Obviously, that is not right. The answer should be close to the original 30.8 IBU's but it is the answer that software will give you and we were about to make the same mistake in the BIABacus.

If we try moving 30% based on IBU's, the problem gets even worse :argh:.

So, my current thinking is to delete the FWH option currently in the BIABacus because, it will be wrong. Maybe instead, we should just add an advanced FWH hop bill section which automatically takes 30% of the final hops and adds them at the beginning (see post #2 here) but gives the same overall IBU's? This would be far more correct from what I have read and understand.

PP

P.S. Even this won't be an ideal solution as the method is purported to be better suited to low alpha acid finishing hops :think:.
Last edited by PistolPatch on 05 Aug 2012, 21:55, edited 6 times in total.
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Post #23 made 13 years ago
PistolPatch wrote: Hop 1: US Amarillo - 8.9AA% - 15.0 IBUs - 21.0 g at 60 min
Hop 2: US Amarillo - 8.9AA% - 11.6 IBUs - 26.8 g at 20 min
Hop 3: US Amarillo - 8.9AA% - 4.3 IBUs - 30.3 g at 5 min

Total = 30.8 IBU's (existing 'The Calculator' hop formula)

Now let's change it to a FWH recipe by taking away 30% of the hop bill, by weight, (starting with the aroma hops) and moving them to the FWH position. ...

FWH: US Amarillo - 8.9AA% - 15.0 IBUs - 23.4 g at 60 min
Hop 1: US Amarillo - 8.9AA% - 15.0 IBUs - 21.0 g at 60 min
Hop 2: US Amarillo - 8.9AA% - 11.6 IBUs - 26.8 g at 20 min
Hop 3: US Amarillo - 8.9AA% - 4.3 IBUs - 6.9 g at 5 min

Total = 47.1 IBU's (16.3 IBU's higher :o)

Hi PP,
Just trying to get my head around the FWH additions, you have said above that you are taking away 1/3 of the original hop additions to be added as a FWH addition however, it looks like you have added the FWH addition on top, without making any adjustments to the other hopping schedule.
When I FWH am I supposed to take 1/3 off of the total hops or do I add 1/3 to the total of the hops?
Last edited by housecat on 05 Aug 2012, 23:07, edited 4 times in total.
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Post #24 made 13 years ago
Sorry HC, I forgot to do the individual IBU's :headhit:. Here you go...

FWH: US Amarillo - 8.9AA% - 16.7 IBUs - 23.4 g at 60 min
Hop 1: US Amarillo - 8.9AA% - 15.0 IBUs - 21.0 g at 60 min
Hop 2: US Amarillo - 8.9AA% - 11.6 IBUs - 26.8 g at 20 min
Hop 3: US Amarillo - 8.9AA% - 1.0 IBUs - 6.9 g at 5 min

Total = 44.2 IBU's (about 13 IBU's higher)

I'll put a note in my post above ;).

:peace:
PP

P.S. Oh and just to clarify, it is a simple moving of the hops from the end to the beginning - no weight adjustments.
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