Post #51 made 13 years ago
Hi Beermaker

Your beer looks good to me, that S04 yeast can be quick and what you have experienced is nothing to worry about. Snap your lid on and then lift one side to break the seal a bit then leave it alone for another week. It should be done by then. Check gravity and if its down to what your expecting bottle or keg.

S04 is discussed in this thread Here your not the first to notice how speedy it can be.

:peace:

Yeasty
Last edited by Yeasty on 26 Apr 2012, 05:37, edited 3 times in total.
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Post #52 made 13 years ago
Cheers Guys - that's put my mind a rest that is fast yeast - have done what you said yeasty and will leave it till next week.

Now that my panic is over have had time to reflect what I have done I have a few more questions;

I intend to keg my beer in the standard youngs keg - I have read a few posts re trub in the bottom of the FV, I fitted a tap which a think leaves about a litre at bottom before the beer will reach the tap and intend to transfer to the keg using the silicon hose I have so air wont get to the beer. Will this be ok or would too much trub be transferred into the keg?

With regards to conditioning, is DME best to use or Sugar? the book I have advises either can be used [80g DME or 50g Sugar] would the DME add to the flavour? Also the recipe advises that I need to dry hop with cones of styrian golding, I don't have the cones but have some hops - would I just add when filling the keg and will the hops needs sterilised in some way if they have been handled or do the nasties not work that way?

My no chill cube is still a bit out of shape since using to store the wort overnight, I assume this is normal and wont split the next time I use it? what sort of life span do you usually get?

I got some tips with using PBW using 30ml in 20l water - I reduced the quantity to 3.75ml in 2.5l water but didn't seem to clean very well - so I think I must have messed up somewhere, how much in grams would I use in 2.5l water?

Cheers for your help

Lee

Post #53 made 13 years ago
I don't know anything about young's kegs, but when you transfer your beer to the keg you could, as I do, have a bottle sanitised ready for beer. Fill it first to ensure you have clean clear runnings going into your keg.

I use white sugar, 76g in a corny keg, not sure but I think dme would add flavour and body.

Dry hops should be added to the fermenter. If you add hops to the keg they will need to be in a tea ball or something similar to ensure the dip tube isn't blocked with hop debris.

I usually get 12 months from a no chill cube. I could continue using them longer but prefer not to.
Last edited by hashie on 27 Apr 2012, 05:42, edited 3 times in total.
"It's beer Jim, but not as we know it."

Post #54 made 13 years ago
Yep, beer.

S04 is fast. Looks like Primary phase is done and you're well into secondary/conditioning. Give it a week to condition.

My standard ale program is two weeks at 17.5C then 1 week at 1C then keg and carbonate

Your cube should be fine i think. Read about one failing on a forum the other day after many uses.

The hope should be fine to just chuck in. It's no impossible to get an infection carried in on the hops but it is unlikely, part of the reason hops are used is their antibacterial properties
Fermenting: -
Cubed: -
Stirplate: -
On Tap: NS Summer Ale III (WY1272), Landlord III (WY1469), Fighter's 70/- II (WY1272), Roast Porter (WY1028), Cider, Soda
Next: Munich Helles III

5/7/12

Post #55 made 13 years ago
Oh and PBW, I use a 30ml laundry powder scoop to measure it. One scoop in 20-25L is a weak solution good for cleaning washed with water fermenters etc. two scoops is stronger for stubborn dirt.

One scoop in less water will be stronger.
Fermenting: -
Cubed: -
Stirplate: -
On Tap: NS Summer Ale III (WY1272), Landlord III (WY1469), Fighter's 70/- II (WY1272), Roast Porter (WY1028), Cider, Soda
Next: Munich Helles III

5/7/12

Post #56 made 13 years ago
Cheers Guys

I transferred my beer to my youngs pressure barrel http://www.amazon.co.uk/Basic-Pressure- ... 913&sr=8-3 on 01.05.12 and used DME to condition.
In my book it advised to vent the air from the barrel after a few days but when I vented no air has come out so thought this may be due to the beer being in a cold room. I transferred to a warmer room and checked tonight but still no air has vented.

When I have checked the lid it looks like the seal may have came off a bit and resulted in the keg not being air tight. I have smelt the beer and seems ok the questions I have now

-Is the beer still ok?
-How can I test if the barrel is air tight?
-Has the secondary fermentation taken place or Do I add more DME?

Also for info I have a lid for the barrel which you can fit a small gas bottle to, was tempted to try it to see if there was any leaks but wasn't sure if it would blow the barrel.
lid is like one on attached link http://www.amazon.co.uk/Home-Brew-Press ... =1-2-fkmr0


Lee

Post #57 made 13 years ago
Beer Drinker wrote:-Is the beer still ok?
-How can I test if the barrel is air tight?
-Has the secondary fermentation taken place or Do I add more DME?
Your beer should be fine, it has probably been producing co2 from the DME so should have a nice blanket of gas protecting it.

I would change the cap for the injection model, sanatise and smear the threads with a little vaseline, you can smear a very small amount on the seal as well. Put it on hand tight then give it another 1/4 turn, you just need enough to seat the seal.

You will do no harm adding more DME as the cap will vent excess pressure. I would add about half of what you have added already, boiled and allowed to cool. I would also inject some gas to check if you have a seal, any excess will vent off. Leave it for another week in the warm then somewhere cool for another week or so.

It may be a bit lively at first but to be honest it always is from these type of barrels, the trick is to put you barrel close to where you are sitting so you don't have far to walk.

:luck:

Yeasty
Last edited by Yeasty on 11 May 2012, 03:33, edited 3 times in total.
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Post #58 made 13 years ago
Cheers Yeasty

You must have read my mind - sent you a PM to look at my post as I thought you might know the answer

I have the injection model cap already on, not got much DME left, could 40g sugar be used instead? take it I would need to sanitise the jug first

Regarding injecting some gas, I have only used the injector once before and the last time the co2 filled the barrel straight away which was half full - how would I add just some of the gas?

Cheers

Lee

Post #59 made 13 years ago
Hi Lee

Sugar will be ok. Add it to 100 ml of water and boil for 10 min, cover with cling film and leave to cool and add.

As to adding gas you will find that with a full barrel it won't take much to reach blow off pressure. When I used the bulbs I used to hold it in a tea towel and just push it onto the pin. The tea towel stops the bulb freezing onto your hand :argh: .You have more control this way and can stop injecting once the safety lifts. Just be careful if you try this :pray: You can see why I advised a Gas Cylinder in the PM.

To be honest since you only have bulbs I would add 80g of sugar and leave it in the warm to carbonate naturally. Unless you are really worried about leaks. :headhit: :headhit: but since you have to take the cap off to add the sugar you can check the seal and vaseline the threads and pop it back, on just don't over tighten. Oh and check the rubbers on the injector and that the S30 nut is tight without distorting the sealing washer, if its the first time you have used it you need to check as they don't always come out of the box tightened up.

Yeasty
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Post #60 made 13 years ago
Cheers Yeasty

You nailed it on the head, it was the nut that was loose, didn't check it when I bought it thought it would have been pre-tightened [another lesson learnt] have hand tightened and vaselined the seals on the nut and washer

Hopefully should work this time when I add the sugar

Cheers

Lee

Post #61 made 13 years ago
Nice one :clap: :clap:

On the Cap nut do it hand tight then tweak it with a spanner watching the sealing washer on the other side, you don't want it distorting but you should not be able to undo it by hand.
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Post #62 made 13 years ago
Hi Yeasty

Well disaster strikes again, I put too much vaseline on the seal and tightened it too much so has distorted the seal and hasn't carbonated the barrel, oops.

I have added about 50g of sugar to the barrel and have put the seal in boiling water to bring it back in to shape and only put a thin amount of vaseline on the surface of the seal and tightened not too tight this time

The question I have now - will the beer still be ok? It has now been in the barrel for 2 weeks, I have tasted the beer [not great - I have tasted a lot worse in my time] it doesn't smell like vinegar or taste like it [which is a good thing] just tastes very strong [according to the hydrometer it is 6.3%] and quite bitter similar to a strong stout

Your comments/advice, as always, appreciated - hopefully my beer isn't destined for the sink

Lee

Post #63 made 13 years ago
Hi Lee

Do you read the same brewing books as BobBrews I thought he was the master of disaster :lol: :lol: :lol:

Seriously your beer will be ok, infact with all this extra sugar it only getting stronger :thumbs:

Think of it this way, when I last did a larger I had it in the loft for 2 months under airlock. Your beer has produced C02 and should be protected against any oxygen and has had only 2 weeks.

One thing to consider is if you have no success this time is to bottle it, get to your local or down the bottle bank and get your hand on a load of empty Magners bottles.

Yeasty
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Post #64 made 13 years ago
Hi Yeasty

Quite possibly - I have had more problems since I have tried to barrel the beer than actually making it

With the amount of sugar added it will probably end up like rocket fuel, going to leave the seal now and see what it is like in a day or so by running some beer off - if it comes out quick and has a head it will do for me then I will transfer to a cold room and leave for 4 weeks and hopefully should be drinkable

Not got enough space for bottles at the moment - maybe something I'll consider in the future

Lee

Post #65 made 13 years ago
Hi Lee

At least you haven't given up :clap: :clap:

Plastic kegs can be a problem and overtightening is a common error for first time users, at least your learning :headhit:
just don't get so pi##ed off that you ditch your beer.

Where in the UK are you ? if your close to me I can lend you a keg that will seal.

Yeasty
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Post #66 made 13 years ago
Hi Yeasty

I'm up in Stanley, County Durham so not near Peter Kay country unfortunately - thanks for the offer though, much appreciated

The good news is there is no need :P

I used the advice from this link http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/new ... barrel-cap
and it has worked a treat - checked my barrel tonight and it has pressurised and have just had a taste of my beer and it now taste great - almost like old peculier - if it tastes this good now should be excellent in a few weeks

I will report back on the official opening day

Lee

Post #68 made 13 years ago
We shall see :P

See what my beers like in a few weeks and I will agree with that sentiment :drink:

Thanks again for your help fellow Northerner :champ: and of course the rest of the lads on this forum

This thread probably going to be useful for new BIABers [possibly :think: ]

Lee

Post #70 made 13 years ago
Nice one Lee really glad to see it turned out great. The question is which will last longer your keg of Beer or England in the Euro's ?

:peace:

Yeasty
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Post #71 made 13 years ago
wasn't really a contest was it, another England failure [mind you they got further than I thought]
still got half a keg left - need to get another brew done soon before it runs out [hopefully with less questions this time]

Lee

Post #72 made 13 years ago
What a great thread. Im probably in the same boat Lee was back in the OP so great to hear it all ended well.

Have you been happy with the boiler Lee? Ive read about a few fellas changing the tap.

Well done!

Post #73 made 13 years ago
Hi Barticus

Glad you liked my thread - got there in the end

Yes very happy with the boiler - had thought about changing the tap but had no problems once the pipe was connected to transfer the wort so just left the original one on

Cheers

Lee
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