Grain Storage Question - Just starting out...

Post #1 made 14 years ago
Someone local to me on Craigslist has these for $19 apiece. Would this be something good to store grains in?
Image
Secondly, since I'm just starting out... is there a good works-for-nearly-everything grain that I can buy in bulk, assuming I can narrow my beer choices down to Pale Ales / IPAs to start? Something like a Pale Ale 2-row? I can always hit up my LHBS for the smaller-quantity specialty grains.
Last edited by daddyo on 16 Apr 2012, 08:25, edited 4 times in total.

Post #2 made 14 years ago
Those look good, anything to keep the varmints out will work.

As to what to should get in bulk? You will need to have a decent 2-row base malt on hand, as you said.....you can always get specialty malts as needed at your LHBS. If you can swing it, beside the standard 2 row pale you might want to have another bulk supply of specialized 2-row such as Marris Otter, Vienna, Munich, etc. These can be mixed with the standard 2-row pale or used as 100% base malts. Good luck!
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Post #3 made 14 years ago
Welcome to the forum daddyo :peace:,

Great question too :salute:

Those containers look great - what size are they by the way?

However, this question is a bit like the kid at school who gets failed on his exam question, "What is more economical? One pound of flour at $5 or 5 pounds of flour for $22?" The kid answered the former and got failed but he was right as he could only go through 2 pounds of flour before it went off :lol: Imagine one of those big containers sitting there 10% full for a year? (It's not efficient storage.)

How I Store My Grain

I have one big container that is not air-tight. Within that I have many air-tight containers (tupperware type stuff) that hold my specialty grains. As their volume decreases, I put them into smaller containers but not to a ridiculous extent.

My base malts, which all come in 25 kg bags that are lined with plastic, as all base malts are and they stay outside the big container until... When they are down to about 5 kgs, I can shove them in that one big container (and I know to re-order them). So, everything stays fresh.

Mark your Grains

When you buy grain, put sopme masking tape on it and write the date purchased. It might not seem important now but down the track, you'll wonder what a grain is and why you ever bought it :smoke:. Same with hops.

Base Malts

I like thughes advice. I have 4 base malts but that is a luxury. I f I had a choice of one, I would go a pale ale as a pale ale will brew a lot of lagers and pilsners. If I had two choices, I'd go a Pilsner and an ale malt such as Maris Otter. Three choices, I'd go a very light coloured pilsner, an ale malt and a darker ale malt. 4 choices, I'd add Munich to the above.

Don't buy too Much!

In fact, if you live near a good home brew shop, I'd never suggest you store your own grain let alone crush it. Storing and crushing has a few hidden costs that are best not seen by new all-grainers. (For example, there's a big difference between buying a crappy mill and owning a great one.)

So, don't go rushing daddyo ;),
PP
Last edited by PistolPatch on 16 Apr 2012, 23:03, edited 3 times in total.
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Post #4 made 14 years ago
When you buy grain, put some masking tape on it and write the date purchased. It might not seem important now but down the track, you'll wonder what a grain is and why you ever bought it :smoke:. Same with hops.
PP is so right on that! Get some ink markers that write on plastic and keep one at any location that you work with grain, hops whatever! It's a bit of a pain to write it down (you will remember, right!) but in the long run it pays off. Keep a few of those cheap calendars that you get each year! They are handy to log the dates you brew, keg etc? Best yet buy a brewers log book like this one http://basicbrewingshop.com/index.php?m ... ducts_id=1

Ask anyone here I hate numbers or keeping track of any measurements but it pays off in the long run to write purchase dates on all your incoming supplies!
Last edited by BobBrews on 17 Apr 2012, 03:07, edited 3 times in total.
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Post #5 made 14 years ago
And if you like a bit of wheat, don't forget a sack of wheat
Fermenting: -
Cubed: -
Stirplate: -
On Tap: NS Summer Ale III (WY1272), Landlord III (WY1469), Fighter's 70/- II (WY1272), Roast Porter (WY1028), Cider, Soda
Next: Munich Helles III

5/7/12

Post #6 made 14 years ago
If you get your grain milled by the shop, it will deteriorate more quickly than unmilled - but I wouldn't get too panicky about it. It will take a fair while before you would notice. The main things - which those containers will cover is to keep it away from moisture, varmints and light.

I would do a rough calculation on how long it will take to use a 25kg sack of your base grain (10 weeks for me - I do 1 x single grain brew every 2 weeks). I wouldn't blink if it took 3 months to finish off a sack of grain, so premilled is a good option for me. Maybe if it were to take 1/2 a year you might think twice about having it all premilled.

Freshest is best but mix that with the appropriate level of pragmatism.

The next thing to consider - if you haven't already done so... Is bulk buying hops. You can save a bucketload of money and may spare yourself extra trips to the shop.

Post #7 made 14 years ago
If buying hops in bulk what is considered the best storage procedure to preserve them and how long can they be stored in this manner?
Fermenting:

Bottle Conditioning

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Post #8 made 14 years ago
People have differences of opinion on storing hops.

Airtight and in the freezer from my perspective. Vegetables in the vegetable crisper don't last for very long, hops are no different. Now frozen vegies have a mushie texture, but I don't care about texture when it comes to hops.

Hops get picked once a year, what you get has probably already been subjected to long term storage in freight/transport/warehousing and that probably means they've been frozen already. Beer get's made 11 months after picking time, so a year is fine with storage.

This thread is an interesting read and the opinion vacillates on fridge vs freezer in it, seems that the freezer wins out in the end. http://www.aussiehomebrewer.com/forum/i ... 54563&st=0

Post #9 made 14 years ago
BobBrews wrote:
When you buy grain, put some masking tape on it and write the date purchased. It might not seem important now but down the track, you'll wonder what a grain is and why you ever bought it :smoke:. Same with hops.
I got that tip from you Bob! So simple - good on ya mate :peace:.

On hops, I've had some in the freezer for several years kept in sealable bags inside air-tight containers. Seems to work a treat ;).
Last edited by PistolPatch on 17 Apr 2012, 20:21, edited 3 times in total.
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Post #10 made 14 years ago
PistolPatch wrote:On hops, I've had some in the freezer for several years kept in sealable bags inside air-tight containers. Seems to work a treat ;).
Thanks for the tip on the hops. I was planning on buying 2 lbs. of Cascade from a local farm for $40 and was wondering how to store it.

But now that I looked around, it looks like I can get 2 lbs. for $32 shipped. Without going on a tangent too much here, can anyone recommend a good hops place online?
Last edited by daddyo on 18 Apr 2012, 11:57, edited 3 times in total.

Post #11 made 14 years ago
The OP's containers look great if you are going to tip the malt out into them. However when buying by the sacks, they are lined with polyethylene nowadays and the sack itself is the best storage environment re staling and oxygenation. On the other hand as stated you need to keep the varmints out.
I have a collection of these http://www.emergencyoffice.com.au/retai ... t_id=50493and just pop the sack in after opening, the sack fits perfectly.

I got them from Bunnings (= Lowes in the USA = bloody mega big hardware shed :lol: ) on a really good special for about $17 each, bought five and should have got a couple more.


BTW opening a sack is easy, learned this from when I worked on a farm. Trim the twine stitching off level with each side of the sack.
One side of the sack will have complex double stitching.
the other side will just have a single row of stitching ------------- like so
Go to the left of the sack (or the right, some countries differ) and tease out the first loop, and pull gently.

The whole thing should unzip quicker and smoother than a Girl Guide Leader's sleeping bag when the Scoutmaster sneaks into the tent :thumbs:
Last edited by Beachbum on 18 Apr 2012, 12:56, edited 3 times in total.

Post #12 made 14 years ago
daddyo wrote:
PistolPatch wrote:On hops, I've had some in the freezer for several years kept in sealable bags inside air-tight containers. Seems to work a treat ;).
Thanks for the tip on the hops. I was planning on buying 2 lbs. of Cascade from a local farm for $40 and was wondering how to store it.

But now that I looked around, it looks like I can get 2 lbs. for $32 shipped. Without going on a tangent too much here, can anyone recommend a good hops place online?
Good hop place online
http://www.nikobrew.com/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

I keep my hops in the freezer vac sealed with a domestic vacuum sealer. Just snip the corner... extract the right amount, reseal, and pop back in the freezer.

Tried buying by the KG, but that was too much for me, now I buy 450g (1lb) packets of anything I buy. 90g/100g packets were just too small :)

There was some debate about keeping them in the fridge vs freezer. My opinion is I'm going to keep hops for anything from 6 months to 3 years, ergo, freezer. Just try not to let them defrost.

Also, My kegfridge has a freezer compartment with two draws... one is for vodka... the other for hops ;)
Last edited by stux on 18 Apr 2012, 13:41, edited 3 times in total.
Fermenting: -
Cubed: -
Stirplate: -
On Tap: NS Summer Ale III (WY1272), Landlord III (WY1469), Fighter's 70/- II (WY1272), Roast Porter (WY1028), Cider, Soda
Next: Munich Helles III

5/7/12

Post #13 made 14 years ago
Beachbum wrote: BTW opening a sack is easy, learned this from when I worked on a farm. Trim the twine stitching off level with each side of the sack.
One side of the sack will have complex double stitching.
the other side will just have a single row of stitching ------------- like so
Go to the left of the sack (or the right, some countries differ) and tease out the first loop, and pull gently.

The whole thing should unzip quicker and smoother than a Girl Guide Leader's sleeping bag when the Scoutmaster sneaks into the tent :thumbs:
Weyermann make it so easy
http://www.weyermann.de/can/produkte_ne" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; ... &sprache=2

Rest of the time I get SWMBO (the seamstress) to pick the magic thread ;)

You can then separate the lining if you want and tie a knot in it to reseal the bag.

I keep my bags in food grade storage crates
Image
the good thing is they stack, and they have lids. Keeps the varmints out.

The bad thing is they're not that cheap... and its a pain to unstack... but it means I can keep 4 of them in my spare bedroom quite easily, which means the grain keeps well :)

BTW, I keep the grain in the sack... or vac seal the specialty stuff.

It would probably be better to use stacking buckets... perhaps handy pails. But you're going to need to use 3 20L pails for one sack.

(grain uses 50 to 60L of space for 25KG)
Image
Last edited by stux on 18 Apr 2012, 13:47, edited 3 times in total.
Fermenting: -
Cubed: -
Stirplate: -
On Tap: NS Summer Ale III (WY1272), Landlord III (WY1469), Fighter's 70/- II (WY1272), Roast Porter (WY1028), Cider, Soda
Next: Munich Helles III

5/7/12

Post #14 made 14 years ago
One thing I should have mentioned before is that for plastic containers (fermentors, cubes, storage bins etc) it makes a massive difference price-wise, in Australia at least, if you go directly to packaging suppliers.

For example, I bought 8 cubes the other day from Vital Packaging at $8.80 while identical cubes sold in the hardwares for $29.95 :o.
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