Hey Guys
So I'm getting ready to make my first BIAB on Saturday. The recipe I was going to use is as follows.
23L
Pale Malt 2 Row 10lbs
Chocolate malt 2.5lbs
Roasted Barley 2.5lbs
East kent Golding 2 oz 60min
East Kent Golding 1 oz 15 min
East Kent Golding 1 oz 1 min
My plan for the day was to do the mash with 23L as this will be close to the limit of my pot, then remove the bag, and boil with the remainder, then after the boil top up again to the required 23L to help cool down the wort to pitching temperature, as I do not have a wort chiller. I'm shooting for a 1.060 OG and a FG around 1.020, which would give me a 75% efficiency.
Does anyone have any comments or suggestions for the way my brew day may go or any changes I might want to make.
Post #2 made 14 years ago
Good Day Xarious, Have you checked out MAXI-BIAB?? http://www.biabrewer.info/viewtopic.php?f=25&t=190.
You can "Sparge" the bag and use the wort for top up!
If you dont use a cooler, have you checked NO-CHILL??? http://www.biabrewer.info/viewforum.php?f=50
You can load the water carriers with hot wort, and seal it, and go to the fermenter day/weeks later!
Good Luck, Just my 0.326euro
You can "Sparge" the bag and use the wort for top up!
If you dont use a cooler, have you checked NO-CHILL??? http://www.biabrewer.info/viewforum.php?f=50
You can load the water carriers with hot wort, and seal it, and go to the fermenter day/weeks later!
Good Luck, Just my 0.326euro
Honest Officer, I swear to Drunk, I am Not God.
-
- SVA Brewer With Over 100 Brews From United States of America
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Post #3 made 14 years ago
xarious,
Here is my 0.326euro worth! On your first brew try not to drink any beer while brewing! I know that sounds scandalous but as anyone can tell you "Mistakes will be made"! As you get experienced you will find out that beer tastes better if you didn't drink while brewing it?
Closer temperatures? No forgotten additions. Better sanitation. When I brew with my club at sponsored functions I always brew a simple beer. One bittering hops and that's it! I get crazy sampling twenty other home-brewers beers and never fail to screw up even the most simplest of beers!
Beer is very forgiving! Don't worry, relax and have a homebrew (after)!
Here is my 0.326euro worth! On your first brew try not to drink any beer while brewing! I know that sounds scandalous but as anyone can tell you "Mistakes will be made"! As you get experienced you will find out that beer tastes better if you didn't drink while brewing it?
Closer temperatures? No forgotten additions. Better sanitation. When I brew with my club at sponsored functions I always brew a simple beer. One bittering hops and that's it! I get crazy sampling twenty other home-brewers beers and never fail to screw up even the most simplest of beers!
Beer is very forgiving! Don't worry, relax and have a homebrew (after)!
tap 1 Raspberry wine
tap 2 Bourbon Barrel Porter
tap 3 Czech Pilsner
tap 4 Triple IPA 11% ABV
Pipeline: Mulled Cider 10% ABV
http://cheesestradamus.com/ Brewers challenge!
tap 2 Bourbon Barrel Porter
tap 3 Czech Pilsner
tap 4 Triple IPA 11% ABV
Pipeline: Mulled Cider 10% ABV
http://cheesestradamus.com/ Brewers challenge!
-
- SVA Brewer With Over 100 Brews From United States of America
-
Post #4 made 14 years ago
Hey
So this is far from my first brew day ever, I was more looking into the feasibility of my modifications to the BIAB method. I have never been a big fan of the no chill method of cooling the wort, and have always had my boil volume less then my full volume to allow for my cooling in this method. I like the idea of sparging through the bag however. Would it be a good idea to use standard mash water volume then fly sparge through the bag?
So this is far from my first brew day ever, I was more looking into the feasibility of my modifications to the BIAB method. I have never been a big fan of the no chill method of cooling the wort, and have always had my boil volume less then my full volume to allow for my cooling in this method. I like the idea of sparging through the bag however. Would it be a good idea to use standard mash water volume then fly sparge through the bag?
Post #5 made 14 years ago
Good Day xarious, I use 75% of the "full volume" for mash and 25% for Batch Spoarge.
I get great extraction!
I get great extraction!
Honest Officer, I swear to Drunk, I am Not God.
-
- SVA Brewer With Over 100 Brews From United States of America
-
Post #6 made 14 years ago
That's real hard to say for me. I used to simply use a (quart or liter) of water to sparge the grain and then dump it back into the pot. Now I just let it drip, give it a slight squeeze and don't sparge! It's hardly worth it when you figure the whole batch? So figuring the water amount depends on your style of brewing. I just brew down to a mark in my pot to come out with 5 gallons. If your the type who likes to get the numbers right then you have to hold back the amount you need to sparge from the total amount. Your software is satisfied and you get to sparge.Would it be a good idea to use standard mash water volume then fly sparge through the bag?
Last edited by BobBrews on 17 Mar 2012, 03:40, edited 3 times in total.
tap 1 Raspberry wine
tap 2 Bourbon Barrel Porter
tap 3 Czech Pilsner
tap 4 Triple IPA 11% ABV
Pipeline: Mulled Cider 10% ABV
http://cheesestradamus.com/ Brewers challenge!
tap 2 Bourbon Barrel Porter
tap 3 Czech Pilsner
tap 4 Triple IPA 11% ABV
Pipeline: Mulled Cider 10% ABV
http://cheesestradamus.com/ Brewers challenge!
-
- SVA Brewer With Over 100 Brews From United States of America
-
Post #7 made 14 years ago
Hi there xarious,
You could sparge through the bag (this is one version of maxi-BIAB) though this requires another two vessels. A saucepan or kitchen kettle and a bucket that is food-grade at hot temperatures will do for this size brew. A dunk-sparge only requires two vessels but the second vessel must be large enough to dunk the bag in. So think through what your equipment capabilities are.
Adding water at the end of the boil might be a bit dangerous. The addition of cold water will only get you down to the 'nasty temperatures' of below 70C but nowhere near your pitching temp. Your kettle will, in other words, be exposed for a short time to outside air at this nasty temp.
I think you might be better off to leave the lid on your kettle and dump the whole kettle into a batch of cold water and change the water a few times. (Stirring the wort occassionally during this 'chill' will speed things up. Put a ladle in there and cover the lot with a towel. This way you can jiggle the ladle occasionally. Add your top-up water just before you pitch. This will be safer. (You can also top the kettle up during the boil as and when you can).
That recipe will be very forgiving so don't be worried if you don't hit targets etc. You would also have no problems leaving the kettle lid on and letting the brew 'no-chill' in the kettle. I've done this several times and have had no dramas.
PP
You could sparge through the bag (this is one version of maxi-BIAB) though this requires another two vessels. A saucepan or kitchen kettle and a bucket that is food-grade at hot temperatures will do for this size brew. A dunk-sparge only requires two vessels but the second vessel must be large enough to dunk the bag in. So think through what your equipment capabilities are.
Adding water at the end of the boil might be a bit dangerous. The addition of cold water will only get you down to the 'nasty temperatures' of below 70C but nowhere near your pitching temp. Your kettle will, in other words, be exposed for a short time to outside air at this nasty temp.
I think you might be better off to leave the lid on your kettle and dump the whole kettle into a batch of cold water and change the water a few times. (Stirring the wort occassionally during this 'chill' will speed things up. Put a ladle in there and cover the lot with a towel. This way you can jiggle the ladle occasionally. Add your top-up water just before you pitch. This will be safer. (You can also top the kettle up during the boil as and when you can).
That recipe will be very forgiving so don't be worried if you don't hit targets etc. You would also have no problems leaving the kettle lid on and letting the brew 'no-chill' in the kettle. I've done this several times and have had no dramas.
PP
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Post #8 made 14 years ago
So I did my brew yesterday and it went, pretty well, we had no problems getting the brew from boiling to pitching temps in less then 30 min, we hit our final volume of 23L and pretty much got our target OG with 1.062. The only problem we had was our bag. My wife made the bag for me, and it's shape and strength was spot on, however the fabric we had decided to make it out of was not nearly permeable enough. We had lots of problems draining the wort from the bag, however we adapted and overcame and scooped and drained the grain in several other ways, using strainers and scooping the grain out of the bag. All in all it was a pretty good brew day, we are just going to head to fabric land and get a more permeable fabric for a new bag, and try it again in a couple weeks.
Post #9 made 14 years ago
Last edited by Yeasty on 19 Mar 2012, 03:56, edited 3 times in total.
Why is everyone talking about "Cheese"
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Post #10 made 14 years ago
The problem with fly sparging through the bag is that the water takes the path of least resistance and can cause channeling and can therefore be a waste of time - fly sparging depends on a grain bed forming and the water forced to traverse the entire grain bed as equally as possible. I'd go for a "dunk sparge" every time. In fact this is what I'll be doing today as I'm brewing a Foreign Extra Stout for a competition and I will really need to do a sparge as it's a big grain bill.
