Hi all,
I have just recently got a 10L Birko urn for doing small batches of beer.
This is good and I gave it a run last night for a laugh and a test run of how it will go.
I learnt some things:
1: My refractometer only goes up to 18 not the 20.9 I needed it to. Looks like my hydrometer can stay out of mothballs for a bit longer!
2: 3kg of grain in my 10L urn is too much,
3: The element in the urn is 2400w and the boil is insane. So much so that it almost jumped out of the urn!!
I can or have fixed the first 2 points but, the boil is a big problem.
I lost 3.8L during the boil (35% evap) the urn has a 25cm diameter.
My question is thus:
What is the best way to fix the urn so it will act like an electric cook top element and give me more of a simmer than a galloping boil?
Cheers HC
Temp control for an urn
Post #2 made 14 years ago
Hi HC, I bought a 40l buffalo which I intend using to copy Nalas Worms-BIAB . I've been thinking and reading about this because I've heard the boil is very violent. I think the best way would be to put a variable resistor(properly rated of course) in series with the heating element. The power output/heat is determined by P=(v^2)/r where r is the element resistance and v is the voltage across it. I'm on 240volts here so I reckon a 2.4kw element is about 24ohms. This means that a 24ohm variable resistor in series with the element should give me the ability to vary the boiler output from about 600 watts up to the full 2.4kw and allow full power to reach boil and much lower power to maintain a rolling boil. Also the lower end of the power range would be great for maintaining mash temp without overheating bottom of mash.
L
L
Temp control for an urn
Post #3 made 14 years ago
Hi again HC. Sorry but I've discovered that the solution may not be as simple as I suggested above. As I've been looking for a similar solution for my boiler it appears that resistors with those ratings are rare or maybe don't exist. A guy on boards.ie recommended an ac motor speed controller to me so the solution may be a little more expensive/involved than I originally thought!!there might be a suitable vellman kit
L
L
Post #4 made 14 years ago
Hi Lars,
Thanks for you reply, I have done some investigation on the BrewAdelaide forum and one of the guys there showed me a pic of his voltage controller.
I did some searching and I am buying this from EvilBay. All I need to do is fit it in a box (with the heat sink on the outside! ) wire it in the middle of an extension cord and whamo! I'll have my own voltage controller.
HC
Thanks for you reply, I have done some investigation on the BrewAdelaide forum and one of the guys there showed me a pic of his voltage controller.
I did some searching and I am buying this from EvilBay. All I need to do is fit it in a box (with the heat sink on the outside! ) wire it in the middle of an extension cord and whamo! I'll have my own voltage controller.
HC
Last edited by housecat on 03 Jan 2012, 18:00, edited 3 times in total.
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Post #5 made 14 years ago
Thanks for that HC, I've just ordered the same device from that link(also ordered an STC1000). Will be getting my 40l buffalo up and running soon.....housecat wrote:Hi Lars,
Thanks for you reply, I have done some investigation on the BrewAdelaide forum and one of the guys there showed me a pic of his voltage controller.
I did some searching and I am buying this from EvilBay. All I need to do is fit it in a box (with the heat sink on the outside! ) wire it in the middle of an extension cord and whamo! I'll have my own voltage controller.
HC
L
Last edited by Lars on 04 Jan 2012, 11:18, edited 3 times in total.
Post #6 made 14 years ago
Hi Housecathousecat wrote:Hi Lars,
Thanks for you reply, I have done some investigation on the BrewAdelaide forum and one of the guys there showed me a pic of his voltage controller.
I did some searching and I am buying this from EvilBay. All I need to do is fit it in a box (with the heat sink on the outside! ) wire it in the middle of an extension cord and whamo! I'll have my own voltage controller.
HC
I have no idea what that voltage regulator is or how it works - I'm no sparky. I had the same problem and I fixed it using a voltage regulator which is a phase fired controller. These work by switching off the power when the sine wave passes though 0, then cut back in at a point determined by the setting of the dial. I can't tell you where to get one as I sourced this from work (it was a redundant bit of gear that was lying around). Something that is a rheostat in series with the urn isn't ideal from the point of view that it chews up the power whereas this doesn't. It has made life so easy for me to keep a steady boil, without the wort jumping out the sides.
Cheers
Dick
Last edited by dick on 08 Jan 2012, 18:55, edited 3 times in total.
Post #7 made 14 years ago
Do a search for "PWM" (pulse width modulator) over at the Home Brew Talk forums. Very similar to what Dick describes above, easy to make, and apparently works very well.
---Todd
---Todd
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Post #8 made 14 years ago
Surely what you want is the controller that is used in an electric stove?
And from what Ive seen that's some sortof wave modulator like dick describes
And from what Ive seen that's some sortof wave modulator like dick describes
Fermenting: -
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On Tap: NS Summer Ale III (WY1272), Landlord III (WY1469), Fighter's 70/- II (WY1272), Roast Porter (WY1028), Cider, Soda
Next: Munich Helles III
5/7/12
Cubed: -
Stirplate: -
On Tap: NS Summer Ale III (WY1272), Landlord III (WY1469), Fighter's 70/- II (WY1272), Roast Porter (WY1028), Cider, Soda
Next: Munich Helles III
5/7/12
