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RIP ale In 2 bags

Post #1 made 14 years ago
by olaboss
My first attempt at BIAB happened on May 21 2011(End of the world). I use 2 large bags in my almost 57 liter pot. It is perfect because it doesn't get too heavy to lift out even when I make large beer. Double hop head from Mid west brewing supplies USA. 14 lb (6.35 kg)grains. I pulled one out the first bag and squeezed the heck out of it and set it on top of the bucket in a colander while I worked on the second bag. If it turns out OK I will call it Rapture IPA :-)
I had made a yeast starter that I fed with 2 liter of wort for 2 days. About 6 hours after pitching it was bubbling in the water lock. After another 3-4 hours I had to fit a blow off hose because it was crazy active with foam blowing out.
I will bottle soon.
Thank you for a good site!
Cheers! Ola
Copying from a single source is called plagiarism, copying from multiple source is called research

Post #3 made 14 years ago
by PistolPatch
'Rapture IPA,' is a great name!

Great to see your second post Ola. You are a two bag pioneer so don't be scared to start a new thread on any advantages/disadvantages you might see in a two bag method.

I also have a heap of questions for you...

What recipe did you use?
What yeast did you use?
What is the 'ambient' temperature you are fermenting at?
How much headspace was there in your fermenter?

The only reason I am asking these things is that a blow-off tube that activates sometimes means the yeast is being allowed to run wild or that there is simply not enough headspace in the fermenter.

What do you reckon is going on?

Congrats on your first all-grain - it's always a heap of fun!
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Post #5 made 14 years ago
by olaboss
Hop Head Double IPA from http://www.midwestsupplies.com/
Ingredients: 14 lbs. Domestic 2-Row barley malt, 4 oz. Aromatic, 12 oz. Caramel 60L, 8 oz. Victory, 1 oz. Chinook, 1 oz. Cascade, 1 oz. Centennial, 1 oz. Crystal and 2 oz. whole hops (dry hop), priming sugar, and yeast (White labs ale yeast liquid).
I don't know if it is bad with a blow off tube? It just became so very active fermentation after a while that even with 4-5 inches of head space it just pumped out the kreusen. I will bottle on Sunday. I know it is slightly long time since I started but I have been crazy busy. I made another batch last weekend with 2 bags. That recipe was around 11 lb of grains.
I still haven't learned how to use the calculator so I had almost 2 liter too much beer in my carboy :-) I put those 2 liters in a small "growler" but the fermentation never started in that so I will just dump it out.
Ola
Copying from a single source is called plagiarism, copying from multiple source is called research

Post #6 made 14 years ago
by BobBrews
olaboss,
Next time you order from midwestsupplies get some (Fermcap-S Foam Inhibitor- 1 oz.)$5.95 UShttp://www.midwestsupplies.com/fermcap- ... -1-oz.html

I buy 6 oz bottles and use it in my boil and fermenter. I haven't had a boil over or washed the bathtub walls since I started using this stuff. If drops out after fermentation. Food luck!
Last edited by BobBrews on 10 Jun 2011, 19:54, edited 5 times in total.
tap 1 Raspberry wine
tap 2 Bourbon Barrel Porter
tap 3 Czech Pilsner
tap 4 Triple IPA 11% ABV
Pipeline: Mulled Cider 10% ABV

http://cheesestradamus.com/ Brewers challenge!
    • SVA Brewer With Over 100 Brews From United States of America

Post #8 made 14 years ago
by olaboss
bagman wrote:Ohh man that recipe looks like a real hop bomb! I can't wait to hear how it turns out for you!!
I am very pleased with the result! Even my wife who normally hate beer think it is good. :shock:
It is strong enough! One beer and I feel sligthly tipsy. I don't have a hydrometer yet since I am still in the beginning stages of my brewing career :) I sampled a bottle 3 or 4 days after bottling and it was flat with no carbondioxide in it and no foam-head so I though I was going to write a post asking what I did wrong, but then 2-3 days later I had a good foam and a head with bubbles and as I said very drinkable beer. It is less hoppy than what I would have expected (compare with SKA brewing modus hoperandi). I used a mesh bag of nylon for the dry hopping and it was floating on top the whole time it was in the second fermenter, is this common and is it a problem? This morning I bottled my second BIAB batch. 55 bottles of English Pale Ale. Next weekend we have a Swedish party (midsummer) and i will sample the EPA. Cheers! Ola
Last edited by olaboss on 20 Jun 2011, 07:55, edited 5 times in total.
Copying from a single source is called plagiarism, copying from multiple source is called research

Post #9 made 14 years ago
by BobBrews
olaboss wrote:
bagman wrote: I used a mesh bag of nylon for the dry hopping and it was floating on top the whole time it was in the second fermenter, is this common and is it a problem?
Here are a few ideas. Don't use a bag in the secondary. It's a source of infection and they float. If you still want to use a bag than sanitize it and add a few sanitized marbles to weigh it down. leave plenty of room in the bag because the hops expand.

Just dump the hops into the secondary. The pellets float until saturated and then sink and disperse. After a week bottle or keg.

Finally dry hop in the primary after the fermentation is done. Wait two weeks and just dump dry hops into the primary. Give it a week and bottle. If you have a hop bomb and your not reusing the yeast cake the extra time on in the primary will reward you.

The old "One two three" adage of One week in the primary. Two weeks in the secondary and three weeks in the bottle is over. The secondary is not a must anymore. More time in the primary is not a problem. The very spirit of BIAB tells us to live on the edge! Experiment! Good Luck!
Last edited by BobBrews on 20 Jun 2011, 20:07, edited 5 times in total.
tap 1 Raspberry wine
tap 2 Bourbon Barrel Porter
tap 3 Czech Pilsner
tap 4 Triple IPA 11% ABV
Pipeline: Mulled Cider 10% ABV

http://cheesestradamus.com/ Brewers challenge!
    • SVA Brewer With Over 100 Brews From United States of America

Post #10 made 14 years ago
by stux
Yes, I stopped doing secondaries years ago :)

Ferment in the Primary, Secondary in the Primary, Lager/Crash-chill in the Primary and then Keg to the serving keg, for carbonation and extended cold-conditioning (ie while I drink the keg)

I've found one of the important things is to avoid sources of infection, which means to avoid any unnecessary transfers.

The most important thing is temperature control

Result is crystal clear, well conditioned beer :)
Fermenting: -
Cubed: -
Stirplate: -
On Tap: NS Summer Ale III (WY1272), Landlord III (WY1469), Fighter's 70/- II (WY1272), Roast Porter (WY1028), Cider, Soda
Next: Munich Helles III

5/7/12

Post #11 made 14 years ago
by olaboss
BobBrews wrote:
olaboss wrote:
bagman wrote: I used a mesh bag of nylon for the dry hopping and it was floating on top the whole time it was in the second fermenter, is this common and is it a problem?
Here are a few ideas. Don't use a bag in the secondary. It's a source of infection and they float. If you still want to use a bag than sanitize it and add a few sanitized marbles to weigh it down. leave plenty of room in the bag because the hops expand.

Just dump the hops into the secondary. The pellets float until saturated and then sink and disperse. After a week bottle or keg.

Finally dry hop in the primary after the fermentation is done. Wait two weeks and just dump dry hops into the primary. Give it a week and bottle. If you have a hop bomb and your not reusing the yeast cake the extra time on in the primary will reward you.

The old "One two three" adage of One week in the primary. Two weeks in the secondary and three weeks in the bottle is over. The secondary is not a must anymore. More time in the primary is not a problem. The very spirit of BIAB tells us to live on the edge! Experiment! Good Luck!
Thank you for your advice! I will use it next time I dry-hop. Anyways the beer is very good and I am so pleased. I have got a lot of nice comments. The EPA didn't taste that fine although I will give it another week or two for the final judgement. Thanks again guys!
Ola
Last edited by olaboss on 28 Jun 2011, 10:50, edited 5 times in total.
Copying from a single source is called plagiarism, copying from multiple source is called research

Post #12 made 14 years ago
by olaboss
Now summer is over and I am back to my garage brewing again :peace: . I have finished (with some help) all my home brew since the spring. The English Pale Ale was OK after a while. I had quite a few positive comments on that one also. Now on the second "end of the world" (October 21)I brewed my RIP Ale II (Rapture India Pale Ale)
The bloke who predicted the ending of the World had it wrong again! imagine.
Good thing I didn't give away everything I own ;-)

I have a question for you more experienced brewers out there: Is there a big risk of infection with naturally occuring yeast spores when I am brewing in my garage with the port open?
I live in a windy place and sometimes the wind is just whipping (penguins flying)
I try to keep the lid on through the most of the process, but when I am cooling the wort I have to keep the lid tilted to the side to give room to the wort chiller. Any thoughts?

I really love the BIAB technique! How simple and still efficient.
Oh another thing: Are you guys/girls happy with the calculator? It estimates way too much water for my recipes. I used 28 liters for my recipe and the calculator said 36.15 Liter. Admittedly I could have used 30 liter for a full 21 liter finished product after racking it off the trub. Any thoughts?
Copying from a single source is called plagiarism, copying from multiple source is called research

Post #13 made 14 years ago
by thughes
olaboss wrote: I really love the BIAB technique! How simple and still efficient.
Oh another thing: Are you guys/girls happy with the calculator? It estimates way too much water for my recipes. I used 28 liters for my recipe and the calculator said 36.15 Liter. Admittedly I could have used 30 liter for a full 21 liter finished product after racking it off the trub. Any thoughts?

You mentioned "I try to keep the lid on through the most of the process".....are you boiling with the lid on? That will definitely reduce your boil-off volume and could possibly cause some issues with off-flavors caused by DMS:

http://www.homebrewzone.com/dimethyl-sulfide.htm


---Todd
Last edited by thughes on 07 Nov 2011, 05:05, edited 5 times in total.
WWBBD?
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Post #14 made 14 years ago
by olaboss
You mentioned "I try to keep the lid on through the most of the process".....are you boiling with the lid on? That will definitely reduce your boil-off volume and could possibly cause some issues with off-flavors caused by DMS:

http://www.homebrewzone.com/dimethyl-sulfide.htm


---Todd[/quote]
Well Todd. First of all, thanks for answering my question. Yes I try to keep the lid on after the hot break when there is little risk for boiling over. The reason is as I mentioned in my post, I am afraid of yeast and junk flying in to my pot while mashing and boiling. It is often windy where I live.
Could you explain the off flavors that you mentioned and what does DMS mean :?
Last edited by olaboss on 07 Nov 2011, 05:22, edited 5 times in total.
Copying from a single source is called plagiarism, copying from multiple source is called research

Post #15 made 14 years ago
by olaboss
:idiot: Oops! Sorry I didn't see your URL. Thank you! I guess I will try to boil without a lid in the future then and add some water that will evaporate.
Copying from a single source is called plagiarism, copying from multiple source is called research

Post #16 made 14 years ago
by Lylo
I will leave it to "Those who know" to explain the flavour things,but you have no worries about contamination during the mash(which you should keep covered)however take the lid off during the boil.
All calculators anticipate a certain amount of boil off,depending on equipment.This boil off eliminates alot of what some call"nasties".
The boil by definition is going kill off any yeast or other bug which may have found its way into the mash.Yes this includes leaves and wort wasps. :lol:

Good luck
Last edited by Lylo on 07 Nov 2011, 05:54, edited 1 time in total.
AWOL

Post #17 made 14 years ago
by joshua
Good Day, I have used a square of stainless steel window screen during the bug/dust season. It has little effect on the boil, but really helps leaves, wasps and flies.
Honest Officer, I swear to Drunk, I am Not God.
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Post #18 made 14 years ago
by hashie
olaboss, if you are worried about wild yeast infection after the boil and during chilling. You could always have a go at no-chill.

This will have the added advantage of simplifying your brewing even more.

As the others have said above, boil with the lid off.
Last edited by hashie on 07 Nov 2011, 05:54, edited 5 times in total.
"It's beer Jim, but not as we know it."

Post #19 made 14 years ago
by olaboss
Thank you all for your comments! Very intresting with no chilling!
I will post my results with no lid boiling. I am continously learning ;)
Copying from a single source is called plagiarism, copying from multiple source is called research

Post #20 made 14 years ago
by Lylo
I have recently converted to no chill.I love it.It shortens brew my day considerably,and allows me to set up and pitch at my leisure.
P.S. 1-50' immersion chiller for sale.
AWOL

Post #21 made 14 years ago
by joshua
Good Day Lylo, you may be able to open up the diameter of the chiller, to your fermenter size and ues it to warm/cool the fermenter. Waste not, want not, or something like that.
Honest Officer, I swear to Drunk, I am Not God.
    • SVA Brewer With Over 100 Brews From United States of America

Post #22 made 14 years ago
by stux
Most calculators use a grain absorption and boil evaporation figures to derive their water figures. Dial that in and they will be accurate
Fermenting: -
Cubed: -
Stirplate: -
On Tap: NS Summer Ale III (WY1272), Landlord III (WY1469), Fighter's 70/- II (WY1272), Roast Porter (WY1028), Cider, Soda
Next: Munich Helles III

5/7/12

Post #23 made 14 years ago
by Lylo
Great idea joshua,however I really like fermenting in carboys.I like the sound of bubbles into the blow off jar and the ocassional blizzard that happens.The ones inside the carboy of course :party: ,not he ones I have to shovel off of my driveway! :angry:
AWOL
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