Boil my sparge

Post #1 made 15 years ago
Hi all

I only have a 15 ltr stock pot as my boiler and have been doing partial mash/partial boils, with the addition of extract in the fermenter, to get my 5 gallons of beer. I had a thought last night that might enable me to brew all grain without the need for a bigger boiler.

Simply put I'd mash in my bag as usual and dunk sparge in another bucket. I'd then only boil the 1st part of the sweet wort for the normal 90 mins with just my bittering hops. After the boil I'd transfer the hopped wort to the original mashing bucket to cool in the sink. The weaker sweet wort from the dunk sparge would then be boiled for just 15 mins with my late hops. Once the two parts have been cooled I'd then combine them in my fermenter and pitch the yeast as usual.......

Quantities involved would be approx

5 kg Grain
18/19 ltrs water ( mash )
10 ltrs water ( sparge )
Hops as per recipe...

That " should " yield around 23 ltrs into the fermenter :)

Now, my only concern is the hot break in the short 15 min boil. With the S.G. being a lot lower, would 15 mins be enough to give me a hot break? Would there be much of one anyway even with a FULL boil? As the only hops in this boil are the late flavour hops there's no need for them to be boiled for the full time either.

I hope I've covered everything. Does anybody do this already? I'd be very interested to hear any thoughts people might have on this idea. And to anyone who uses this method regularly, my apologies for trying to tell you something that you already know :salute:

Cheers Tom
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Post #2 made 15 years ago
Tom, I can see why you'd go down this path with the 15L pot, but I'm a little concerned that you're only boiling the sparge for 15 minutes, however of course I'd stand corrected if it was OK. I realise I myself recommend (and practice) adding sparge up until 15- 20 minutes from the end of the boil, however as you've touched on, break formation may not be adequate. I'm just not sure about that TBQH...
Adding boiled wort into any vessel apart from the fermenter is bound to lead to infection unless it is scrupulously clean, no- chilling excepted of course- that's heat- sanitised and well tested.
Stretch Maxi-BIAB to the limit would be my first suggestion (certainly an honourable cause!), then perhaps look at splitting it up. My feeling is that 3.5kg or more should be manageable in the 15L pot with ease, but 5kg may be really pushing it.
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Post #3 made 15 years ago
The break or lack of it really is my main worry. I'll have to do a bit more research on how quickly an acceptable break is achieved.
I'm not that bothered about a bit of protein haze as the method I use at the moment involves adding liquid malt extract direct into the fermenter as I only mash 2.75 kg of grain. So I do suffer a slight haze at the moment, no big deal though. I'm sure it's not as simple as that though. If the only issue was a hazy beer I'd do it for my next brew :P
I've got another hop trial to do before I'm free to experiment but that might mean risking a pack of my prized Nelson Sauvin's on a possible risky brew :sad:
Got some Citra that I might sacrifice tho :think:

Cheers Tom
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Post #4 made 15 years ago
Hi sigurdur

In all honesty I think I'll have to give up on this idea. The only evidence I can find of a short boil is from John Palmer saying that the scum that forms on the top of the wort as it starts to boil IS the hot break. There are many other people however that say that this is incorrect and that it is just some of the unconverted starch showing it's face.
As I said earlier, one of my lines of thought was that with it only being a weak wort the issues like hot break and dms would be less important. I'm 90% resigned to the fact that I'll need to do two full boils in my 15 litre pot if I want to progress fully to all grain.....

Cheers Tom
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Post #5 made 15 years ago
Soupdragon, slow down!

I have been reading this thread with great interest. Don't abandon the idea now!!!

What's the problem here??? Well, we know the possible problem - the 'weak' wort isn't going to get boiled for 60 or 90 minutes. Tonight though, a respected Maxi-BIAB Brewer told me that he keeps draining his wort into the boil throughout its entirety!

I have never tasted his beer but I fear sometimes ideas like this get tossed aside for stupid reasons.

I think you should try this method.

How will you know if it is successful?

Taste the beer.

Don't get caught up in styles etc - just taste the beer. I just scored a bronze and silver on the two beers I entered into the only show I enter each year. As far as I was concerned, they were badly presented (my worst ever as I was in a rush - totally cloudy!) and quite out of style. But, they are balanced and they do taste good - still out of style though.

Why would what you propose be any different or less likely to 'succeed'?
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Post #6 made 15 years ago
Hi PP

Wise words sir :)
I'm not that bothered about styles or following any particular recipe. All I want to do is brew nice tasty beer. I've just barrelled my 1st trial where I'm trying to maximize the flavour from my late hops. Got another trial to do before I settle on how to use my late hops. So what's so different about doing a brew with a short sparge wort boil? Nothing at all actually. If it doesn't work out then so be it but I'm sure the beer will still be drinkable :pray:

Cheers Tom
    • Over 100 Brews From Great Britain

Post #7 made 15 years ago
The main concern with the short sparge boil is pasteurizing the sparge. People have gotten into trouble when you add sparge/late runnings into the last 10/15 mins of the boil.

In order to make sure all the grain nasties are killed don't add your sparge/runnings to the kettle within 15 mins of flameout
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