Planning to do my second BIAB this weekend (and posibbly the 3rd also depending on time, probably just 2 of the same recipe so I can see how they vary from batch to batch).
We have a in-line style hot water system so I am thinking of using the hot water from this to shave a bit off time off the day. (I read a few threads and the consesus seemed to be if its in-line and the cooled water from the hot tap tastes fine it should be ok)
Still havent quite worked out all the software yet but am going to start with a 33L water volume for the mash. Beersmith 2 suggests 34.75 as the mash volume.. but I figure I can always top up if I am a bit low after draining bag. My plan is to have 30l at the start of the boil.
As I am no chilling I am going to take about 20 minutes off the 60 and 30 min addition times (so 40 and 10 mins) does this sound about right? Will then use coffee plunger with some boiling water into the fermenter for the last addition)
Had problems with pulley in last batch so am going to try a rope tied to ladder leaning on the wall with a few loops I can hook the bag onto.
Still not too sure how much of the trub I should be letting go into the cube (does this effect the flavour while no chilling?).
Here is the recipe I am going to give a shot (Same grain bill as first recipe I did, but switching hops and yeast):
Recipe: Blonde Ale (BIAB No.2)
Style: Blonde Ale
TYPE: All Grain
Recipe Specifications
--------------------------
Batch Size (fermenter): 22.00 l
Boil Size: 31.54 l
Bottling Volume: 20.00 l
Estimated OG: 1.048 SG
Estimated Color: 3.3 SRM
Estimated IBU: 18.5 IBUs
Brewhouse Efficiency: 65.00 %
Boil Time: 90 Minutes
Ingredients:
------------
Amt Name Type # %/IBU
5.00 kg Pilsner, Malt Craft Export (Joe White) ( Grain 2 95.2 %
0.25 kg Carafoam (Weyermann) (2.0 SRM) Grain 3 4.8 %
10.00 g Gypsum (Calcium Sulfate) (Mash 60.0 mins Water Agent 1 -
20.00 g Cascade [5.50 %] - Boil 60.0 min Hop 4 11.7 IBUs
15.00 g Cascade [5.50 %] - Boil 30.0 min Hop 5 6.8 IBUs
15.00 g Cascade [5.50 %] - Aroma Steep 5.0 min Hop 7 0.0 IBUs
0.50 Items Whirlfloc Tablet (Boil 5.0 mins) Fining 6 -
1.0 pkg Nottingham (Danstar #-) [23.66 ml] Yeast 8 -
5.00 g Gelatin (Primary 24.0 hours) Fining 9 -
Mash Schedule: BIAB, Medium Body
Total Grain Weight: 5.25 kg
----------------------------
Name Description Step Temperat Step Time
Saccharification Add 34.75 l of water at 70.2 C 66.7 C 75 min
Mash Out Add 0.00 l of water and heat to 75.6 C ov 75.6 C 10 min
Post #2 made 14 years ago
All seems good 
Just keep an eye on your numbers at various stages and then you can dial everything in later
I find the trub is mostly at the bottom of the kettle, and you can basically leave it behind. Cold break will form in your cubes... and as much as I contemplate leaving it behind I always end up tossing it into the fermenter...
Just keep an eye on your numbers at various stages and then you can dial everything in later
I find the trub is mostly at the bottom of the kettle, and you can basically leave it behind. Cold break will form in your cubes... and as much as I contemplate leaving it behind I always end up tossing it into the fermenter...
Fermenting: -
Cubed: -
Stirplate: -
On Tap: NS Summer Ale III (WY1272), Landlord III (WY1469), Fighter's 70/- II (WY1272), Roast Porter (WY1028), Cider, Soda
Next: Munich Helles III
5/7/12
Cubed: -
Stirplate: -
On Tap: NS Summer Ale III (WY1272), Landlord III (WY1469), Fighter's 70/- II (WY1272), Roast Porter (WY1028), Cider, Soda
Next: Munich Helles III
5/7/12
Post #3 made 14 years ago
Thanks for the tips Stux. I tried to keep an eye on the first one but ended up misreading my own measurement on the sight guage and topping up too much for boil.
However I do know I evaporated 2L in 40 minutes so am working on 4.5L for 90 minute boil.
However I do know I evaporated 2L in 40 minutes so am working on 4.5L for 90 minute boil.
Post #4 made 14 years ago
First grain cracked on my own mill ready for tommorow.. hopefully I cracked it ok.. I ran it on the default monster mill 2 setting.. noticed a few grains where still whole so ran it through twice. Now I might go figure out a better way to rig the temperature probe into the urn during the mash through the old sleeping bag.
Post #5 made 14 years ago
deebo,it has been written that most starch conversion happens in the first 20 min of the mash.What I have started doing(and I,m sure I'll hear if it's wrong) is to leave the bag alone for the first 1/2hr,(if you are using a descent bag you really shouldn't have much drop in temp)then pull it off and give a real good stir to even the temperature before taking a reading.Then adjust if needed.
P.S. Search "malt conditioning"
P.S. Search "malt conditioning"
AWOL
Post #6 made 14 years ago
deebo,
I'm not an experienced or knowledgeable no-chiller but quite a few no-chillers don't adjust their hop schedule at all.
I would definitely not move the 60 minute hops at all. As for the 30 minute ones I would be moving them to 20 minutes regardless of whether I no-chilled or not. Good luck!
Lylo
I think the 20 minute thing is a bit of a distortion of some truth (e.g. probably one part of the mash process occurrs within twenty minutes but not all of them) that has spread like wildfire across the net.
In reality if you take gravity samples through the mash you'll find they consistently go up and still rise even between 75 and 90 minutes.
One day I'll work out where that 20 minute thing sprang from
.
PP
I'm not an experienced or knowledgeable no-chiller but quite a few no-chillers don't adjust their hop schedule at all.
I would definitely not move the 60 minute hops at all. As for the 30 minute ones I would be moving them to 20 minutes regardless of whether I no-chilled or not. Good luck!
Lylo
I think the 20 minute thing is a bit of a distortion of some truth (e.g. probably one part of the mash process occurrs within twenty minutes but not all of them) that has spread like wildfire across the net.
In reality if you take gravity samples through the mash you'll find they consistently go up and still rise even between 75 and 90 minutes.
One day I'll work out where that 20 minute thing sprang from
.PP
Last edited by PistolPatch on 23 Jun 2011, 21:39, edited 5 times in total.
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Post #7 made 14 years ago
Lylo,
I have like a probe on wire that I found very useful on my first batch. But I think I might have accidentally pulled the wire too much when getting the sleeping bag over the urn (possibly dragged it out of the liquid while trying to make it stay visible from under the sleeping bag) on my first biab I noticed a 2c drop in the first 20 minutes which I think is a bit too much so this time I am going to try wrapping a rope around the sleeping bag to pull it tight and maybe chuck another blanket over the top. As it is an old sleeping bag I think ill make a small hole in the top to push the probe through so I can just sit the display on top of the urn.
Pistol,
Thanks for the tips, what is the reasoning behind 20 instead of 30? This brings up another thing I have wondered about.. everyone works out their hop additions with regards to the boil (e.g. 0 is flameout) but wouldnt the time before chilling effect the rate of bitterness/flavour? For example if someone whirlpools etc and leaves it to settle for 30 minutes before cooling?
Do calculators work off a certain ammount of time before chilling to calculate the bitterness?
I have like a probe on wire that I found very useful on my first batch. But I think I might have accidentally pulled the wire too much when getting the sleeping bag over the urn (possibly dragged it out of the liquid while trying to make it stay visible from under the sleeping bag) on my first biab I noticed a 2c drop in the first 20 minutes which I think is a bit too much so this time I am going to try wrapping a rope around the sleeping bag to pull it tight and maybe chuck another blanket over the top. As it is an old sleeping bag I think ill make a small hole in the top to push the probe through so I can just sit the display on top of the urn.
Pistol,
Thanks for the tips, what is the reasoning behind 20 instead of 30? This brings up another thing I have wondered about.. everyone works out their hop additions with regards to the boil (e.g. 0 is flameout) but wouldnt the time before chilling effect the rate of bitterness/flavour? For example if someone whirlpools etc and leaves it to settle for 30 minutes before cooling?
Do calculators work off a certain ammount of time before chilling to calculate the bitterness?
Post #8 made 14 years ago
deebo,I found that my first digital probe type thermometer would take on water when immersed for long periods and go wonky.I have since foud a good quality scientific type thermo that gives me good readings throughout the day.
PP,yeah I get it.I was just saying that you don't need to check the temps constantly.
PP,yeah I get it.I was just saying that you don't need to check the temps constantly.
AWOL
Post #9 made 14 years ago
Howdy deebo,
It's generally accepted that flavour hops start at around 20 minutes. A 30 minute addition is a funny one as it imparts little flavour and little bitterness. Mind you, a true blonde ale should really have no flavour or aroma hops. There's probably a reason for a 30 minute addition that is beyond my knowledge.
Hop formulas are pretty 'grey' but they assume that the chill begins at the end of the boil. However, kettle temperature drops very rapidly from 100 C to 80 C (where they say most activity stops) even without chilling. I think this is probably one of these areas where you have to rely on your own palate a bit.
In saying all that...
One very experienced brewer told me the other day that when he swapped from a stainless steel kettle to aluminium his bitterness levels went up noticeably. So, there's many factors in the hop game. Another excellent brewer from Little Creatures told me that a lot of science on hops is pretty fictitious and that you have to get to know each hop and what different treatments of that hop will do to get the right aspects from it. I think there is a lot of truth in that. For example, if hop activity stops at 80 C then why does dry hopping make any difference? Why does first wort hopping act so differently?
Many questions and they are ones I don't have answers to
PP
Lylo: Good on you
It's generally accepted that flavour hops start at around 20 minutes. A 30 minute addition is a funny one as it imparts little flavour and little bitterness. Mind you, a true blonde ale should really have no flavour or aroma hops. There's probably a reason for a 30 minute addition that is beyond my knowledge.
Hop formulas are pretty 'grey' but they assume that the chill begins at the end of the boil. However, kettle temperature drops very rapidly from 100 C to 80 C (where they say most activity stops) even without chilling. I think this is probably one of these areas where you have to rely on your own palate a bit.
In saying all that...
One very experienced brewer told me the other day that when he swapped from a stainless steel kettle to aluminium his bitterness levels went up noticeably. So, there's many factors in the hop game. Another excellent brewer from Little Creatures told me that a lot of science on hops is pretty fictitious and that you have to get to know each hop and what different treatments of that hop will do to get the right aspects from it. I think there is a lot of truth in that. For example, if hop activity stops at 80 C then why does dry hopping make any difference? Why does first wort hopping act so differently?
Many questions and they are ones I don't have answers to
PP
Lylo: Good on you
Last edited by PistolPatch on 23 Jun 2011, 23:10, edited 5 times in total.
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Post #10 made 14 years ago
PistolPatch
Makes sense, I think I will do a 60 20 and a 0, then if I think it needs more arome in the fermenter will use the coffee plunger.
I basically just put together a recipe I want to drink (light colour with a bit of hoppyness and a very simple grain bill) then tried to find the best matching style in beersmith, not really out to make a blonde ale as such.
I really like most Kolsch I have tried but want to stick with dried yeast I have available for now.
I have some hallertau coming from niko brew so once that arrives I will read up on yeast starters and get a liquid yeast for kolsch and try Lloyds Krispy Kolsch (it sounds really good). Do the wyeast activator packs require a starter?.
Makes sense, I think I will do a 60 20 and a 0, then if I think it needs more arome in the fermenter will use the coffee plunger.
I basically just put together a recipe I want to drink (light colour with a bit of hoppyness and a very simple grain bill) then tried to find the best matching style in beersmith, not really out to make a blonde ale as such.
I really like most Kolsch I have tried but want to stick with dried yeast I have available for now.
I have some hallertau coming from niko brew so once that arrives I will read up on yeast starters and get a liquid yeast for kolsch and try Lloyds Krispy Kolsch (it sounds really good). Do the wyeast activator packs require a starter?.
Post #11 made 14 years ago
I like and understand what you are aiming for. I actually entered a comp here which was judged recently and where you have to nominate what you are going to enter a few months in advance. I nominated I would enter a cream ale but by the time it came to brewing (way too late) I thought I had nominated a blonde. I actually ended up just making up a recipe that I wanted to try not even caring or remembering what style I had nominated. It's a cross between a cream malt bill and a pilsner hop bill I think. Somehow it actually got a bronze and I do quite like it 
).
I also like using dried yeast as liquid yeast is so expensive and I don't have the time to get into yeast cultures etc. I have actually re-used dried yeast for at least ten months with no problems at all but my brewing was far more regular then. In the last few years though I have had some several multi-month long gaps between brews and so just have packets on hand. (Only the cost of a cup of coffee anyway and no labour involved.)
Any time I have brewed Lloyd's Krispy Kolsch I have 'bludged' off Lloydie as he used to live nearby and always had German Ale yeast slurrys available. I think wizard78 has brewed this with the dried K97 so it would be interesting to get his feedback. I'm sure it would turn out well.
Cheers,
PP
). I also like using dried yeast as liquid yeast is so expensive and I don't have the time to get into yeast cultures etc. I have actually re-used dried yeast for at least ten months with no problems at all but my brewing was far more regular then. In the last few years though I have had some several multi-month long gaps between brews and so just have packets on hand. (Only the cost of a cup of coffee anyway and no labour involved.)
Any time I have brewed Lloyd's Krispy Kolsch I have 'bludged' off Lloydie as he used to live nearby and always had German Ale yeast slurrys available. I think wizard78 has brewed this with the dried K97 so it would be interesting to get his feedback. I'm sure it would turn out well.
Cheers,
PP
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Post #12 made 14 years ago
G'day,
Your right PP I did brew this one with the k97 German ale yeast, which is hard to find in my part of the world so I ordered it from the craftbrewer website. I also only use dry yeasts ATM, due to limited time and money.
Lloydies kolch turned out really nice, I took it to a Christmas BBQ and it was a hit. The only trouble with this yeast is it is hard to clear, but it didn't matter the keg didn't last long even though it was cloudy, it still tasted great, well balanced.
Time will be needed if you want clear beer.
I think I fermented this at about 15 deg C to get a nice Krispy kolch.
Cheers
Your right PP I did brew this one with the k97 German ale yeast, which is hard to find in my part of the world so I ordered it from the craftbrewer website. I also only use dry yeasts ATM, due to limited time and money.
Lloydies kolch turned out really nice, I took it to a Christmas BBQ and it was a hit. The only trouble with this yeast is it is hard to clear, but it didn't matter the keg didn't last long even though it was cloudy, it still tasted great, well balanced.
Time will be needed if you want clear beer.
I think I fermented this at about 15 deg C to get a nice Krispy kolch.
Cheers
[center]"All right, brain. You don't like me and I don't like you, but let's just do this and I can get back to killing you with beer."
[/center]
[center]Homer Simpson[/center]
[center]K.I.S.S., B.I.A.B.[/center]
[/center]
[center]Homer Simpson[/center]
[center]K.I.S.S., B.I.A.B.[/center]
Post #13 made 14 years ago
Thanks for the tips I think I will order some k97 when the hops arrive.
Brew day is going good apart from a pretty strong wind. The ladder leaning on the wall worked a lot better than the pulley (also with a storm coming I'm glad I moved further under the patio)
Ended up with 10.2 brix and 31.5 L of wort for the boil which is pretty close to what I wanted. Beersmith 2 said it should be 1040 at start of boil so I think I am actually spot on.
I am going to try adding the whirlfloc at 5 mins this time, waiting 20 mins for convection to finish, then whirlpooling and waiting another 20 mins to see if it helps much with the trub.
Brew day is going good apart from a pretty strong wind. The ladder leaning on the wall worked a lot better than the pulley (also with a storm coming I'm glad I moved further under the patio)
Ended up with 10.2 brix and 31.5 L of wort for the boil which is pretty close to what I wanted. Beersmith 2 said it should be 1040 at start of boil so I think I am actually spot on.
I am going to try adding the whirlfloc at 5 mins this time, waiting 20 mins for convection to finish, then whirlpooling and waiting another 20 mins to see if it helps much with the trub.
Post #14 made 14 years ago
wiz: Thanks for that info. I will look forward to giving the K97 a crack!
deebo: I reckon stay with the standard 20 minutes for the whirfloc. Also only use half a tablet. Next time, to help manage your trub, try rinsing out your grain bag and using this as a hop bag. Just let it hang loosely in the boil. Cheers!
deebo: I reckon stay with the standard 20 minutes for the whirfloc. Also only use half a tablet. Next time, to help manage your trub, try rinsing out your grain bag and using this as a hop bag. Just let it hang loosely in the boil. Cheers!
Last edited by PistolPatch on 24 Jun 2011, 14:19, edited 5 times in total.
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Post #15 made 14 years ago
Have seen a couple of people saying to add it at 5 minutes? I added it at 5 this time (didn't see your post until after I did it) but left 20 minutes before whirlpooling. Will go back to 15 if I see no difference.
http://www.aussiehomebrewer.com/forum/i ... t&p=405448
http://www.aussiehomebrewer.com/forum/i ... t&p=405448
Post #16 made 14 years ago
Sorry deebo, I was wrong on the 20 minutes. I've been using a different finings for the last few years so had forgotten the right time .
This post by stux shows the manufacturers recommend 10 minutes.
On the whirlpooling, someone suggested to me the other day to not use an electric drill to whirlpool the wort. Instead use a large spoon to stir the wort on the outside of the pot 6 or 7 times. I think this guy is probably right as my whirlpools fail any time I try a drill
.This post by stux shows the manufacturers recommend 10 minutes.
On the whirlpooling, someone suggested to me the other day to not use an electric drill to whirlpool the wort. Instead use a large spoon to stir the wort on the outside of the pot 6 or 7 times. I think this guy is probably right as my whirlpools fail any time I try a drill
Last edited by PistolPatch on 24 Jun 2011, 15:40, edited 5 times in total.
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Post #17 made 14 years ago
PistolPatch
What finings do you use now?
Whirlpool was pretty successful this time.I used a spoon to really get it going then left it for 20 minutes (Last time i only waited 10 minutes before whirlpooling and cubed 10 minutes after whirlpooling because it was getting a bit late).. patience grasshopper seems appropriate here.
Ended up with a full cube at 12.2 brix which is what bs2 estimated so I am a happy camper. Went with a 60 and 20 minute addition of 20g and will french press 15g into the fermenter tommorow.
Lost 5.2 litres to the boil this time (ended up with 26.2 litres in urn) which I think was because it was fairly windy (Last time was 4.5).
Using water from the hot tap saved me a fair amount of time which was good.
What finings do you use now?
Whirlpool was pretty successful this time.I used a spoon to really get it going then left it for 20 minutes (Last time i only waited 10 minutes before whirlpooling and cubed 10 minutes after whirlpooling because it was getting a bit late).. patience grasshopper seems appropriate here.
Ended up with a full cube at 12.2 brix which is what bs2 estimated so I am a happy camper. Went with a 60 and 20 minute addition of 20g and will french press 15g into the fermenter tommorow.
Lost 5.2 litres to the boil this time (ended up with 26.2 litres in urn) which I think was because it was fairly windy (Last time was 4.5).
Using water from the hot tap saved me a fair amount of time which was good.
Post #18 made 14 years ago
Sounds like a good brew daydeebo wrote:PistolPatch
What finings do you use now?
Whirlpool was pretty successful this time.I used a spoon to really get it going then left it for 20 minutes (Last time i only waited 10 minutes before whirlpooling and cubed 10 minutes after whirlpooling because it was getting a bit late).. patience grasshopper seems appropriate here.
Ended up with a full cube at 12.2 brix which is what bs2 estimated so I am a happy camper. Went with a 60 and 20 minute addition of 20g and will french press 15g into the fermenter tommorow.
Lost 5.2 litres to the boil this time (ended up with 26.2 litres in urn) which I think was because it was fairly windy (Last time was 4.5).
Using water from the hot tap saved me a fair amount of time which was good.
Here is an excellent recent post from Thirsty Boy at AHB about No Chill hop timing adjustments
http://www.aussiehomebrewer.com/forum/i" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; ... t&p=787798
His methodology seems to match my experiences and I'm planning to give it a go next brew
Last edited by stux on 24 Jun 2011, 17:29, edited 5 times in total.
Fermenting: -
Cubed: -
Stirplate: -
On Tap: NS Summer Ale III (WY1272), Landlord III (WY1469), Fighter's 70/- II (WY1272), Roast Porter (WY1028), Cider, Soda
Next: Munich Helles III
5/7/12
Cubed: -
Stirplate: -
On Tap: NS Summer Ale III (WY1272), Landlord III (WY1469), Fighter's 70/- II (WY1272), Roast Porter (WY1028), Cider, Soda
Next: Munich Helles III
5/7/12
Post #19 made 14 years ago
deebo: Glad to hear the whirlpool worked. I'm looking forward to using the "non-drill" method on my next brew. Finings I used to use were koppafloc - tastes awful
stux: Good old Thirsty! Always a great read.
sigurdur: Haven't seen that chart before. Nice! Sig, have you tried the "non-drilling" method for whirlpooling using just arms and a large spoon? If so, did that not work either?
stux: Good old Thirsty! Always a great read.
sigurdur: Haven't seen that chart before. Nice! Sig, have you tried the "non-drilling" method for whirlpooling using just arms and a large spoon? If so, did that not work either?
Last edited by PistolPatch on 24 Jun 2011, 18:49, edited 5 times in total.
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Post #20 made 14 years ago
Thirsty always seems to have a lot of in depth information.. very interesting.
So assuming I want to try his method and I will be using 60 20 and 0 additions the recipe should look like below? (But I actually put the hops in at 60 20 and 0)
Have cracked the grain and will hopefully be able to get this done tommorow.
Recipe: Alemarillo (BIAB No.3)
Style: Specialty Beer
TYPE: All Grain
Recipe Specifications
--------------------------
Boil Size: 31.79 l
Post Boil Volume: 27.04 l
Batch Size (fermenter): 22.00 l
Bottling Volume: 20.00 l
Estimated OG: 1.048 SG
Estimated Color: 3.0 SRM
Estimated IBU: 28.0 IBUs
Brewhouse Efficiency: 65.00 %
Est Mash Efficiency: 76.8 %
Boil Time: 90 Minutes
Ingredients:
------------
Amt Name Type # %/IBU
5.00 kg Pilsner, Malt Craft Export (Joe White) ( Grain 2 95.2 %
0.25 kg Carafoam (Weyermann) (2.0 SRM) Grain 3 4.8 %
10.00 g Gypsum (Calcium Sulfate) (Mash 90.0 mins Water Agent 1 -
10.00 g Amarillo Gold [8.50 %] - Boil 75.0 min Hop 4 10.8 IBUs
15.00 g Amarillo Gold [8.50 %] - Boil 35.0 min Hop 5 10.1 IBUs
25.00 g Amarillo Gold [8.50 %] - Boil 15.0 min Hop 6 7.2 IBUs
1.0 pkg Safale American (DCL/Fermentis #US-05) Yeast 7 -
5.00 g Gelatin (Primary 24.0 hours) Fining 8 -
Mash Schedule: BIAB, Medium Body
Total Grain Weight: 5.25 kg
----------------------------
Name Description Step Temperat Step Time
Saccharification Add 35.00 l of water at 70.1 C 66.7 C 75 min
Mash Out Heat to 75.6 C over 7 min 75.6 C 10 min
So assuming I want to try his method and I will be using 60 20 and 0 additions the recipe should look like below? (But I actually put the hops in at 60 20 and 0)
Have cracked the grain and will hopefully be able to get this done tommorow.
Recipe: Alemarillo (BIAB No.3)
Style: Specialty Beer
TYPE: All Grain
Recipe Specifications
--------------------------
Boil Size: 31.79 l
Post Boil Volume: 27.04 l
Batch Size (fermenter): 22.00 l
Bottling Volume: 20.00 l
Estimated OG: 1.048 SG
Estimated Color: 3.0 SRM
Estimated IBU: 28.0 IBUs
Brewhouse Efficiency: 65.00 %
Est Mash Efficiency: 76.8 %
Boil Time: 90 Minutes
Ingredients:
------------
Amt Name Type # %/IBU
5.00 kg Pilsner, Malt Craft Export (Joe White) ( Grain 2 95.2 %
0.25 kg Carafoam (Weyermann) (2.0 SRM) Grain 3 4.8 %
10.00 g Gypsum (Calcium Sulfate) (Mash 90.0 mins Water Agent 1 -
10.00 g Amarillo Gold [8.50 %] - Boil 75.0 min Hop 4 10.8 IBUs
15.00 g Amarillo Gold [8.50 %] - Boil 35.0 min Hop 5 10.1 IBUs
25.00 g Amarillo Gold [8.50 %] - Boil 15.0 min Hop 6 7.2 IBUs
1.0 pkg Safale American (DCL/Fermentis #US-05) Yeast 7 -
5.00 g Gelatin (Primary 24.0 hours) Fining 8 -
Mash Schedule: BIAB, Medium Body
Total Grain Weight: 5.25 kg
----------------------------
Name Description Step Temperat Step Time
Saccharification Add 35.00 l of water at 70.1 C 66.7 C 75 min
Mash Out Heat to 75.6 C over 7 min 75.6 C 10 min
Post #21 made 14 years ago
Yes, assuming you want 28 IBUs and you lowered the weight of the primary buttering addition to get to 28
Fermenting: -
Cubed: -
Stirplate: -
On Tap: NS Summer Ale III (WY1272), Landlord III (WY1469), Fighter's 70/- II (WY1272), Roast Porter (WY1028), Cider, Soda
Next: Munich Helles III
5/7/12
Cubed: -
Stirplate: -
On Tap: NS Summer Ale III (WY1272), Landlord III (WY1469), Fighter's 70/- II (WY1272), Roast Porter (WY1028), Cider, Soda
Next: Munich Helles III
5/7/12
Post #23 made 14 years ago
Brew today went pretty good except I forgot to add calcium sulphate untill after the mash was done.
Whirlpool worked really good today also, I think waiting 20 minutes after flamout and whirlpool helps a lot, was a nice pile in the center of the urn.
Ended up with cube of 12.1 Brix (1.048) so my figures seem to be matching what beersmith tells me it should be.
Evaporation this time was about 5L (I added about 300ml of liquid from the bucket I left the bag dripping over at 78 mins so not sure how to take that into account)
90 31.7L
78 32L
60 30.5
30 29L
0 27L
Whirlpool worked really good today also, I think waiting 20 minutes after flamout and whirlpool helps a lot, was a nice pile in the center of the urn.
Ended up with cube of 12.1 Brix (1.048) so my figures seem to be matching what beersmith tells me it should be.
Evaporation this time was about 5L (I added about 300ml of liquid from the bucket I left the bag dripping over at 78 mins so not sure how to take that into account)
90 31.7L
78 32L
60 30.5
30 29L
0 27L
Post #24 made 14 years ago
Good on you deebo - good figures AND whirlpool!
PP
P.S. I also wrote a bit more about the 20 minute mash myth we talked about above here.
PP
P.S. I also wrote a bit more about the 20 minute mash myth we talked about above here.
Last edited by PistolPatch on 27 Jun 2011, 01:54, edited 5 times in total.
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Post #25 made 14 years ago
Probably not worth making a new topic every time I make a beer
I am thinking of trying this tommorow (I got 2kg of munich malt to try out but forgot to get some carapils.. oh well).
I do have some us-05 but havent decided if I should use that instead.
This will be the first time I try mashing at a lower temperature also (my first 3 I had been aiming for about 66) so hopefully it all works out.
Hopefully it doesnt rain too much.
Style: Cream Ale
TYPE: All Grain
Recipe Specifications
--------------------------
Boil Size: 32.04 l
Post Boil Volume: 27.04 l
Batch Size (fermenter): 22.00 l
Bottling Volume: 20.59 l
Estimated OG: 1.051 SG
Estimated Color: 7.7 EBC
Estimated IBU: 23.8 IBUs
Brewhouse Efficiency: 65.00 %
Est Mash Efficiency: 76.8 %
Boil Time: 90 Minutes
Ingredients:
------------
Amt Name Type # %/IBU
5.00 kg Pilsner, Malt Craft Export (Joe White) ( Grain 3 90.9 %
0.50 kg Munich, Light (Joe White) (17.7 EBC) Grain 4 9.1 %
33.00 l My water plus 10g Gypsum Water 1 -
10.00 g Gypsum (Calcium Sulfate) (Mash 90.0 mins Water Agent 2 -
15.00 g Nelson Sauvin [12.00 %] - Boil 30.0 min Hop 5 14.6 IBUs
20.00 g Nelson Sauvin [12.00 %] - Boil 10.0 min Hop 7 9.2 IBUs
15.00 g Nelson Sauvin [12.00 %] - Aroma Steep 5. Hop 8 0.0 IBUs
0.50 Items Whirlfloc Tablet (Boil 10.0 mins) Fining 6 -
1.0 pkg Nottingham (Danstar #-) [23.66 ml] Yeast 9 -
1.00 Items Gelatin (Secondary 5.0 hours) Fining 10 -
Mash Schedule: BIAB, Light Body
Total Grain Weight: 5.50 kg
----------------------------
Name Description Step Temperat Step Time
Saccharification Add 35.40 l of water at 67.7 C 64.4 C 90 min
Mash Out Heat to 75.6 C over 7 min 75.6 C 10 min
I am thinking of trying this tommorow (I got 2kg of munich malt to try out but forgot to get some carapils.. oh well).
I do have some us-05 but havent decided if I should use that instead.
This will be the first time I try mashing at a lower temperature also (my first 3 I had been aiming for about 66) so hopefully it all works out.
Hopefully it doesnt rain too much.
Style: Cream Ale
TYPE: All Grain
Recipe Specifications
--------------------------
Boil Size: 32.04 l
Post Boil Volume: 27.04 l
Batch Size (fermenter): 22.00 l
Bottling Volume: 20.59 l
Estimated OG: 1.051 SG
Estimated Color: 7.7 EBC
Estimated IBU: 23.8 IBUs
Brewhouse Efficiency: 65.00 %
Est Mash Efficiency: 76.8 %
Boil Time: 90 Minutes
Ingredients:
------------
Amt Name Type # %/IBU
5.00 kg Pilsner, Malt Craft Export (Joe White) ( Grain 3 90.9 %
0.50 kg Munich, Light (Joe White) (17.7 EBC) Grain 4 9.1 %
33.00 l My water plus 10g Gypsum Water 1 -
10.00 g Gypsum (Calcium Sulfate) (Mash 90.0 mins Water Agent 2 -
15.00 g Nelson Sauvin [12.00 %] - Boil 30.0 min Hop 5 14.6 IBUs
20.00 g Nelson Sauvin [12.00 %] - Boil 10.0 min Hop 7 9.2 IBUs
15.00 g Nelson Sauvin [12.00 %] - Aroma Steep 5. Hop 8 0.0 IBUs
0.50 Items Whirlfloc Tablet (Boil 10.0 mins) Fining 6 -
1.0 pkg Nottingham (Danstar #-) [23.66 ml] Yeast 9 -
1.00 Items Gelatin (Secondary 5.0 hours) Fining 10 -
Mash Schedule: BIAB, Light Body
Total Grain Weight: 5.50 kg
----------------------------
Name Description Step Temperat Step Time
Saccharification Add 35.40 l of water at 67.7 C 64.4 C 90 min
Mash Out Heat to 75.6 C over 7 min 75.6 C 10 min
