OK so got my 2nd BIAB under my belt. Went a lot smoother this time round... and got some good efficiency.
I was shooting for 1.050 with 13lbs of Maris Otter pale ale malt (65%), and hit 1.060 post-boil (closer to 80%). I attempted to whirlpool after chill, used a stainless steel spoon and swirled around for about a minute to really get things going, then put the lid on and waited 20 minutes. It didn't seem to form a cone in the middle but just formed a flat layer. Siphoned from the top, got about 4.5 gallons or so. Topped up the rest with water and brought my OG down to 1.055.
I have a few questions:
What is the best whirlpooling method?
Should I start with more water to account for the kettle trub? I had this factored in my calcs but ended up with lots more trub than anticipated.
Is it reasonable to use 75% now as my efficiency figure? I set it to 65% to be conservative.
I should be keeping a much more thorough log with measurements to work this all out... but starting to get the feel for how much water I'm losing to evaporation, trub, etc.
Oh, and it smells absolutely amazing... Amarillo, 1oz. @ FWH, 0.5oz @ 15 min, 0.5oz @ flameout. Going to dry hop with an oz. for a week after.
Cheers
Post #2 made 15 years ago
Hi Monty (may I call you Monty ? ) 
I whirpool and get mixed results, I stir until the wort is almost spilling over the edge, sometimes I get a nice cone and other times I get a "soft" cone that collapses as the level drops when syphoning. I think it all depends upon the recipe. I do add irish moss or a whirlfloc tablet depending on my mood at the time but haven't noticed any difference between the two.
As to your efficiency setting the "factory setting" on the calculator is 79% which I belive was upped from 75% in earlier versions. I've always left it at 79 and have had no problems. I'd set my efficiency to 79% and go with the flow for a couple of more brews, try to keep good records of your quantities and gravities and you'll soon have you brewing dialed in. Trub can be a PITA but at the end of the day as long as you get a decent brew length into the FV I wouldn't worry to much about it. You can always filter it through your bag and boil it up to reduce its volume and freeze it to use as a yeast starter.
Yeasty
I whirpool and get mixed results, I stir until the wort is almost spilling over the edge, sometimes I get a nice cone and other times I get a "soft" cone that collapses as the level drops when syphoning. I think it all depends upon the recipe. I do add irish moss or a whirlfloc tablet depending on my mood at the time but haven't noticed any difference between the two.
As to your efficiency setting the "factory setting" on the calculator is 79% which I belive was upped from 75% in earlier versions. I've always left it at 79 and have had no problems. I'd set my efficiency to 79% and go with the flow for a couple of more brews, try to keep good records of your quantities and gravities and you'll soon have you brewing dialed in. Trub can be a PITA but at the end of the day as long as you get a decent brew length into the FV I wouldn't worry to much about it. You can always filter it through your bag and boil it up to reduce its volume and freeze it to use as a yeast starter.
Yeasty
Why is everyone talking about "Cheese"
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Post #3 made 15 years ago
Irish moss and whirlfloc are both carrageenen and will behave the same. Whirlfloc is simply much easier to measure and use 
Btw I believe the correct dosage is 2 tablets per 100L so you can use half a tablet for a single batch in the last 5 minutes
Btw I believe the correct dosage is 2 tablets per 100L so you can use half a tablet for a single batch in the last 5 minutes
Fermenting: -
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On Tap: NS Summer Ale III (WY1272), Landlord III (WY1469), Fighter's 70/- II (WY1272), Roast Porter (WY1028), Cider, Soda
Next: Munich Helles III
5/7/12
Cubed: -
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On Tap: NS Summer Ale III (WY1272), Landlord III (WY1469), Fighter's 70/- II (WY1272), Roast Porter (WY1028), Cider, Soda
Next: Munich Helles III
5/7/12
Post #4 made 15 years ago
No that's too much, if you use that much you will end up with a very fluffy yeast cake and will lose a lot of beer as a result when transferring out of fermenters.stux wrote:Irish moss and whirlfloc are both carrageenen and will behave the same. Whirlfloc is simply much easier to measure and use
Btw I believe the correct dosage is 2 tablets per 100L so you can use half a tablet for a single batch in the last 5 minutes
Cut back to about 1 tablet for 100l which is still arguably too much, but at least not such a crazy overdose. I use 1.8g of protofloc powder when doing a 65l brew and it's plenty, I also have a better yeast cake since cutting back to recommended amounts.
Last edited by EoinMag on 24 May 2011, 15:53, edited 5 times in total.
http://beernvictuals.blogspot.com/ My blog, If you like what you read post a comment on the blog comments section thanks, BIAB post coming soon.
Post #5 made 15 years ago
I do agree, and I was going to write 1-2 tablets per 100L, but then I actually decided to look it upEoinMag wrote:No that's too much, if you use that much you will end up with a very fluffy yeast cake and will lose a lot of beer as a result when transferring out of fermenters.stux wrote:Irish moss and whirlfloc are both carrageenen and will behave the same. Whirlfloc is simply much easier to measure and use
Btw I believe the correct dosage is 2 tablets per 100L so you can use half a tablet for a single batch in the last 5 minutes
Cut back to about 1 tablet for 100l which is still arguably too much, but at least not such a crazy overdose. I use 1.8g of protofloc powder when doing a 65l brew and it's plenty, I also have a better yeast cake since cutting back to recommended amounts.
Anyway, I do agree, I use half a tablet with 50L.
Soo... I've looked harder and found the spec sheet
"
WHIRLFLOC T is recommended for use at 20-60ppm.
The dose rate should be optimised to suit the individual
brewery. A method is available on request.
WHIRLFLOC T is added directly to the 'copper'
(kettle), 10 minutes before the end of the boil. Since the
tablets are readily soluble under these conditions, the
turbulent action of the boiling wort will ensure immediate
and complete dispersion/solubilisation of WHIRLFLOC
T.
"
Which is 2-6g per 100L
And there are 2.5g per tablet.
So, 0.8-2.4 tablets per 100L
point is, a quarter tab is okay for a single batch.
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Last edited by stux on 24 May 2011, 17:36, edited 5 times in total.
Fermenting: -
Cubed: -
Stirplate: -
On Tap: NS Summer Ale III (WY1272), Landlord III (WY1469), Fighter's 70/- II (WY1272), Roast Porter (WY1028), Cider, Soda
Next: Munich Helles III
5/7/12
Cubed: -
Stirplate: -
On Tap: NS Summer Ale III (WY1272), Landlord III (WY1469), Fighter's 70/- II (WY1272), Roast Porter (WY1028), Cider, Soda
Next: Munich Helles III
5/7/12
Post #6 made 15 years ago
Here's the other thing though...
"
INGREDIENTS Refined and Semi-refined Carrageenan Powder
Adipic Acid
Sodium Carbonate
Sodium Bicarbonate
Magnesium Silicate
"
Does the Sodium Carbonate and Bicarbonate affect the water chemistry in a detrimental way? And if so, is that reason to use unadulterated Irish Moss?
"
INGREDIENTS Refined and Semi-refined Carrageenan Powder
Adipic Acid
Sodium Carbonate
Sodium Bicarbonate
Magnesium Silicate
"
Does the Sodium Carbonate and Bicarbonate affect the water chemistry in a detrimental way? And if so, is that reason to use unadulterated Irish Moss?
Fermenting: -
Cubed: -
Stirplate: -
On Tap: NS Summer Ale III (WY1272), Landlord III (WY1469), Fighter's 70/- II (WY1272), Roast Porter (WY1028), Cider, Soda
Next: Munich Helles III
5/7/12
Cubed: -
Stirplate: -
On Tap: NS Summer Ale III (WY1272), Landlord III (WY1469), Fighter's 70/- II (WY1272), Roast Porter (WY1028), Cider, Soda
Next: Munich Helles III
5/7/12
Post #7 made 15 years ago
I've seen a lot of threads here and there about fluffy sediment, I had the problem myself, thinking that more was better, until I had a discussion with Graham Wheeler who set me straight on dosage amounts.
I still see people using too much so it's a bit of a pet peeve of mine and I'd rather people are not overdosing on the stuff and throwing out good wort.
The carbonates won't cause an issue they are the right side of the mash, water chemistry at this point has become all but irrelevant.
I still see people using too much so it's a bit of a pet peeve of mine and I'd rather people are not overdosing on the stuff and throwing out good wort.
The carbonates won't cause an issue they are the right side of the mash, water chemistry at this point has become all but irrelevant.
http://beernvictuals.blogspot.com/ My blog, If you like what you read post a comment on the blog comments section thanks, BIAB post coming soon.
Post #8 made 15 years ago
Thanks for the tips.
Yeasty - our "brewing co." is an amalgamation of my last name and my friend's. Monty works fine :p
The guy at my LHBS threw in a whirlfloc tablet with my recipe purchase. He said to just chuck it in during the last 15 min of the boil, which I did. Did I overdose my wort on whirlfloc? Hah. Might explain why I had problems whirlpooling?
I normally use Irish moss, so I'll give that a shot on the next batch to see how things turn out. I'm also going to dial in my efficiency to 79% as suggested, and see how I hit my target gravities.
- Adrian -
Yeasty - our "brewing co." is an amalgamation of my last name and my friend's. Monty works fine :p
The guy at my LHBS threw in a whirlfloc tablet with my recipe purchase. He said to just chuck it in during the last 15 min of the boil, which I did. Did I overdose my wort on whirlfloc? Hah. Might explain why I had problems whirlpooling?
I normally use Irish moss, so I'll give that a shot on the next batch to see how things turn out. I'm also going to dial in my efficiency to 79% as suggested, and see how I hit my target gravities.
- Adrian -
Check out our Montbard Brewing Blog
Post #9 made 15 years ago
Stick with Whirlfloc, it's much better than standard Irish Moss, just don't use too much. For a standard 23l brew length, I'd go with half a tab.
http://beernvictuals.blogspot.com/ My blog, If you like what you read post a comment on the blog comments section thanks, BIAB post coming soon.
Post #10 made 15 years ago
sigurdur wrote:I don't agree with this Eoin.EoinMag wrote:The carbonates won't cause an issue they are the right side of the mash, water chemistry at this point has become all but irrelevant.
The mineral composition of the produced wort can make a more or less desirable end result, since the pH and disolved minerals change and have an affect on the beer.
But of course, the effect will probably be minimal when using one whirlfloc table in a batch.
From a whirlfloc tablet......minimal input if any and as said the mash is over already, but you're probably right in a too little to matter but actually correct type way
Last edited by EoinMag on 15 Jun 2011, 15:29, edited 5 times in total.
http://beernvictuals.blogspot.com/ My blog, If you like what you read post a comment on the blog comments section thanks, BIAB post coming soon.
Post #11 made 15 years ago
I just kegged this guy yesterday. Force carbing with 30 PSI for 2 days then I'll bring it down to serving pressure around 12 PSI. It's been cold crashing for around 4 days before I kegged, already looks and smells amazing.
I'd also like to add, for those in the US you can pick up a case of Sam Adams Latitude 48 Deconstructed. They've taken the Latitude 48 IPA and singled out each hop into it's own beer - essentially doing a SMaSH with each hop in their IPA. I've yet to pick up a case, but it sounds interesting, especially more so for those into the SMaSH scene.
We also recently did a Bluegaarden (Blue Moon meets Hoegaarden). I'll post the recipe for that in the recipe section for BIAB. It's a traditional Belgian wheat using a mix of white wheat, 2-row, flaked wheat, torrified wheat, noble hops, coriander & bitter orange peel & the White Labs belgian wit.
I'd also like to add, for those in the US you can pick up a case of Sam Adams Latitude 48 Deconstructed. They've taken the Latitude 48 IPA and singled out each hop into it's own beer - essentially doing a SMaSH with each hop in their IPA. I've yet to pick up a case, but it sounds interesting, especially more so for those into the SMaSH scene.
We also recently did a Bluegaarden (Blue Moon meets Hoegaarden). I'll post the recipe for that in the recipe section for BIAB. It's a traditional Belgian wheat using a mix of white wheat, 2-row, flaked wheat, torrified wheat, noble hops, coriander & bitter orange peel & the White Labs belgian wit.
Check out our Montbard Brewing Blog
Post #12 made 15 years ago
You serve at 12 psi?If I go over 5psi I get jet propulsion into glass and tons of foam!Am I doing something wrong?I have onlu tapped 3 of my kegs but they have all reacted about the same.I use 75 grams of priming corn sugar and condition with about 15 psi on top.
AWOL
Post #13 made 15 years ago
Alrighty then,that seems simple.i have about 2 ft of line.Go to 6 ft?
AWOL
Post #14 made 15 years ago
That mixer looks like a great idea.It looks just like the inside part of a loctite epoxy mixer,which I have lots of in my shop.UH OH getting WAAY OT.Sorry
AWOL
Post #15 made 15 years ago
Slightly back OT, the Amarillo is awesome. Light and easy on the palate, a crowd pleaser, especially those who aren't into super hoppy beers. One person likened it to fruity pebbles (cereal). Since I used only MO for the base malt, I would probably add some carapils next time to boost head retention. Not sure Amarillo is the best bittering hop, but the aroma and flavor is amazing on this.
Re: kegging, you're better off using longer hose, at least 5 ft, and make sure to keep the keg as cold as possible. My keg is at around 40 deg F. Keeps the foaming to a minimum. If you carb to higher volumes, for example German style wheats, you need to compensate with a longer beer line to balance the keg pressure. There's tons of tips on homebrewtalk as referenced by sigurdur.
Re: kegging, you're better off using longer hose, at least 5 ft, and make sure to keep the keg as cold as possible. My keg is at around 40 deg F. Keeps the foaming to a minimum. If you carb to higher volumes, for example German style wheats, you need to compensate with a longer beer line to balance the keg pressure. There's tons of tips on homebrewtalk as referenced by sigurdur.
Check out our Montbard Brewing Blog
Post #17 made 15 years ago
I have 2.3M of 5mm ID line on my kegsLylo wrote:Alrighty then,that seems simple.i have about 2 ft of line.Go to 6 ft?
There are calculators about to work out your keg line length/pressure
http://www.iancrockett.com/brewing/info" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; ... ance.shtml
Last edited by stux on 20 Jun 2011, 15:17, edited 5 times in total.
Fermenting: -
Cubed: -
Stirplate: -
On Tap: NS Summer Ale III (WY1272), Landlord III (WY1469), Fighter's 70/- II (WY1272), Roast Porter (WY1028), Cider, Soda
Next: Munich Helles III
5/7/12
Cubed: -
Stirplate: -
On Tap: NS Summer Ale III (WY1272), Landlord III (WY1469), Fighter's 70/- II (WY1272), Roast Porter (WY1028), Cider, Soda
Next: Munich Helles III
5/7/12
Post #18 made 15 years ago
Thanks stux thats a great site!The hose I picked up is the braided type like my reg.came with,it's gotta be safe,no?
AWOL
Post #19 made 15 years ago
Lylo,
When are you going to tell us how to keep a moron in suspense? The suspense is killing me!
P.S Do one hose at a time! "Measure twice cut once"?
When are you going to tell us how to keep a moron in suspense? The suspense is killing me!
P.S Do one hose at a time! "Measure twice cut once"?
tap 1 Raspberry wine
tap 2 Bourbon Barrel Porter
tap 3 Czech Pilsner
tap 4 Triple IPA 11% ABV
Pipeline: Mulled Cider 10% ABV
http://cheesestradamus.com/ Brewers challenge!
tap 2 Bourbon Barrel Porter
tap 3 Czech Pilsner
tap 4 Triple IPA 11% ABV
Pipeline: Mulled Cider 10% ABV
http://cheesestradamus.com/ Brewers challenge!
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- SVA Brewer With Over 100 Brews From United States of America
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Post #20 made 15 years ago
What?Like start with 12'of hose?
LOL I golfed yesterday with a carpenter whose nickname is"Freddy Two Cuts"
P.S.Calm down Grasshopper the answer will show itself in time.
LOL I golfed yesterday with a carpenter whose nickname is"Freddy Two Cuts"
P.S.Calm down Grasshopper the answer will show itself in time.
AWOL
Post #21 made 15 years ago
What's the internal diameter of your hose?
Braided hose sounds like its going to be large.
The larger the internal diameter, the longer the line needs to be to balance the system, which means more expense, more tubing to manage, and more stale beer in the tubing!
I do know that in commercial draught systems they use large line, but they just lower the serving PSI till they get the right pour at high speed. The difference is they're going through kegs so quickly that they don't care about the keg carbonation changing under the head pressure.
In a domestic kegging arrangement you're not finishing a keg in a day or 3, but rather in weeks/months and in that scenario you want your dispensing pressure to be equal to your carbonating pressure so your carbonation stays constant and you don't have to re-adjust your regulator every time you decide to pour a pint!
I keep my fridge at 4-5C, I like 2.3-2.4 volumes of C02, I have taps 74cm above the keg centre and my ID 5mm smooth lines need somewhere between 2.1 and 2.3M (7.5ft) of tubing.
So I use 80-90kpa of headpressure (leaning towards 80)
I still might cut 10 or 20cm off the tubing, but right now the pours are really quite nice.
Neat thing is in australia we can get John Guest fittings, which allow rapid changing (push/pull connections) of the tubing, I don't think you can get them very easily in North America :(
http://www.gryphonbrewing.com.au/store/ ... p?cPath=49
Braided hose sounds like its going to be large.
The larger the internal diameter, the longer the line needs to be to balance the system, which means more expense, more tubing to manage, and more stale beer in the tubing!
I do know that in commercial draught systems they use large line, but they just lower the serving PSI till they get the right pour at high speed. The difference is they're going through kegs so quickly that they don't care about the keg carbonation changing under the head pressure.
In a domestic kegging arrangement you're not finishing a keg in a day or 3, but rather in weeks/months and in that scenario you want your dispensing pressure to be equal to your carbonating pressure so your carbonation stays constant and you don't have to re-adjust your regulator every time you decide to pour a pint!
I keep my fridge at 4-5C, I like 2.3-2.4 volumes of C02, I have taps 74cm above the keg centre and my ID 5mm smooth lines need somewhere between 2.1 and 2.3M (7.5ft) of tubing.
So I use 80-90kpa of headpressure (leaning towards 80)
I still might cut 10 or 20cm off the tubing, but right now the pours are really quite nice.
Neat thing is in australia we can get John Guest fittings, which allow rapid changing (push/pull connections) of the tubing, I don't think you can get them very easily in North America :(
http://www.gryphonbrewing.com.au/store/ ... p?cPath=49
Fermenting: -
Cubed: -
Stirplate: -
On Tap: NS Summer Ale III (WY1272), Landlord III (WY1469), Fighter's 70/- II (WY1272), Roast Porter (WY1028), Cider, Soda
Next: Munich Helles III
5/7/12
Cubed: -
Stirplate: -
On Tap: NS Summer Ale III (WY1272), Landlord III (WY1469), Fighter's 70/- II (WY1272), Roast Porter (WY1028), Cider, Soda
Next: Munich Helles III
5/7/12
Post #22 made 15 years ago
My braided hose is 1/4id.I haven't cut it yet.I just stumbled across what I think is a cheap source at .29 cents a foot.
AWOL
Post #23 made 15 years ago
from that website I linkedLylo wrote:My braided hose is 1/4id.I haven't cut it yet.I just stumbled across what I think is a cheap source at .29 cents a foot.
"Generally, for lines under 9' use 3/16" ID, under 25' use 1/4" ID."
The 5mm line I use is closest to 3/16" ID. You would only want to use 1/4" for quite long runs. You can even get 4mm (5/32"?) line which allows even shorter runs.
3/16 = 4.76mm
1/4 = 6.35mm
5/16 = 7.94mm
pretty close to the metric 5/6/8mm lines... might even be the same actually
http://www.northernbrewer.com/brewing/k" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; ... gas-tubing
http://morebeer.com/search/102240" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
Last edited by stux on 22 Jun 2011, 13:00, edited 5 times in total.
Fermenting: -
Cubed: -
Stirplate: -
On Tap: NS Summer Ale III (WY1272), Landlord III (WY1469), Fighter's 70/- II (WY1272), Roast Porter (WY1028), Cider, Soda
Next: Munich Helles III
5/7/12
Cubed: -
Stirplate: -
On Tap: NS Summer Ale III (WY1272), Landlord III (WY1469), Fighter's 70/- II (WY1272), Roast Porter (WY1028), Cider, Soda
Next: Munich Helles III
5/7/12
Post #24 made 15 years ago
My hose barbs on my picnic taps are 1/4" .I guess I'll try the mixer tubes.
AWOL
Post #25 made 15 years ago
Lylo,
BIAB has cured my cenosillicaphobia. Hey! I figured out how to keep a moron in suspense. Oh damn! I forgot again. It will come to me. Anyway. Keep your glass full and your mind empty.
BIAB has cured my cenosillicaphobia. Hey! I figured out how to keep a moron in suspense. Oh damn! I forgot again. It will come to me. Anyway. Keep your glass full and your mind empty.
tap 1 Raspberry wine
tap 2 Bourbon Barrel Porter
tap 3 Czech Pilsner
tap 4 Triple IPA 11% ABV
Pipeline: Mulled Cider 10% ABV
http://cheesestradamus.com/ Brewers challenge!
tap 2 Bourbon Barrel Porter
tap 3 Czech Pilsner
tap 4 Triple IPA 11% ABV
Pipeline: Mulled Cider 10% ABV
http://cheesestradamus.com/ Brewers challenge!
-
- SVA Brewer With Over 100 Brews From United States of America
-
