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My first BIAB brew – tips and thoughts

Post #1 made 11 years ago
by UnknownGuest
Hi everyone,

This is my first BIAB brew, and first all grain. Hoping to get some thoughts on my BIABacus recipe (attached).

I'm trying to do an American Pale Ale in the vein of Sierra Nevada. But I just want an easy to make, nice tasting beer, and am willing to change anything as I haven't bought ingredients yet.

Here are some questions I have:
  • * In the "Hop Bill" section, I'm not sure what the original recipe's volume of ambient wort was, so I guessed 28L as this is how much beer in the end. Any thoughts on this number?
  • * Are you supposed to use "The Calculator" in conjunction with the BIABacus, or is it one or the other?
  • * I guessed the fermenting temp of 22 degrees. Any ideas what a suitable temp would be?
  • * Is this an ok first brew?
  • * Any corrections or tips?
  • * Is Whirfloc needed on an American Pale Ale, or is it just for clearer beers such as lagers?

Here's the report:

[center]BIABacus Pre-Release 1.3T RECIPE REPORT[/center]
[center]BIAB Recipe Designer, Calculator and Scaler.[/center]
[center](Please visit http://www.biabrewer.info" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; for the latest version.)[/center]
[center]Nierra Sevada[/center]

Recipe Overview
Brewer: Jed Lehmann
Style: American Pale Ale
Source Recipe Link:
ABV: 5.2% (assumes any priming sugar used is diluted.)

Original Gravity (OG): 1.054
IBU's (Tinseth): 35.7
Bitterness to Gravity Ratio: 0.66
Colour: 11.1 EBC = 5.6 SRM
Kettle Efficiency (as in EIB and EAW): 80.4 %
Efficiency into Fermentor (EIF): 72.4 %

Note: This is a Pure BIAB (Full Volume Mash)

Times and Temperatures
Mash: 90 mins at 66 C = 150.8 F
Boil: 90 min
Ferment: 14 days at 20 C = 68 F

Volumes & Gravities
(Note that VAW below is the Volume at Flame-Out (VFO) less shrinkage.)
The, "Clear Brewing Terminology," thread at http://www.biabrewer.info/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Total Water Needed (TWN): 25.37 L = 6.7 G
Volume into Boil (VIB): 22.83 L = 6.03 G @ 1.044
Volume of Ambient Wort (VAW): 17.76 L = 4.69 G @ 1.054
Volume into Fermentor (VIF): 16 L = 4.23 G @ 1.054
Volume into Packaging (VIP): 14.82 L = 3.91 G @ 1.014 assuming apparent attenuation of 75 %

The Grain Bill (Also includes extracts, sugars and adjuncts)
Note: If extracts, sugars or adjuncts are not followed by an exclamation mark, go to http://www.biabrewer.info" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; (needs link)
91.2% JWM Traditional Ale (6.2 EBC = 3.1 SRM) 3673 grams = 8.1 pounds
8.8% JWM Crystal 140 (17.7 EBC = 9 SRM) 355 grams = 0.78 pounds

The Hop Bill (Based on Tinseth Formula)
17 IBU Chinook Pellets (13%AA) 9.5 grams = 0.336 ounces at 60 mins
13.4 IBU Pearle Pellets (8%AA) 15.9 grams = 0.559 ounces at 30 mins
5.2 IBU Cascade Pellets (5.5%AA) 19 grams = 0.671 ounces at 10 mins

Mash Steps
Mash Type: Pure BIAB (Full-Volume Mash): Saccharifiaction for 90 mins at 66 C = 150.8 F
[*][*][*]

Miscellaneous Ingredients
0.79 Whirfloc tablet (Boil) 5 Mins - Clarity

Chilling & Hop Management Methods
Hopsock Used: Y (Pulled 0 mins after boil end.)
Chilling Method: Water bath

Fermentation & Conditioning
Fermentation: DCL Safale US-05 for 14 days at 22 C = 71.6 F

Thanks so much to anyone that can help out!
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Last edited by UnknownGuest on 16 Sep 2014, 08:34, edited 3 times in total.

Post #2 made 11 years ago
by mally
I am sure it will be a nice beer either way. Just not sure how close you are trying to get to SNPA?

I am not sure if SNPA dry hop, but they would certainly use more late hops than that IMHO, and they seem to use more cascade than anything.
Try to make sure you mash & boil for 90 minutes instead of 60 as well.

Instead of guessing the VAW try and find a recipe that has this integrity. Using the incorrect VAW will affect your hop bill. You could use the IBU override but this is a bit more advanced at the moment.

You don't need the calculator, the BIABacus encompasses all.
22C seems a little high to me, but I really don't know :scratch: . I normally use US-o5 at 18-20C (but 22C may make no discernible difference).
This should be fine for a first brew depending on what your expectations are. A nice beer is easily achievable, a SNPA clone not so.
Good question about whirlfloc - I always use it as a habit, so wouldn't know if it does make a difference.
G B
I spent lots of money on booze, birds and fast cars. The rest I squandered
I've stopped drinking, but only when I'm asleep
I ONCE gave up women and alcohol - it was the worst 20 minutes of my life
    • SVA Brewer With Over 100 Brews From Great Britain

Post #3 made 11 years ago
by UnknownGuest
Thanks Mally!

I'll respond to your points:
Just not sure how close you are trying to get to SNPA?
Not that close at all really, just want something in the general style that's drinkable.
Try to make sure you mash & boil for 90 minutes instead of 60 as well.
Thanks, I'll amend the times.
Instead of guessing the VAW try and find a recipe that has this integrity
Bit confused here. How is this number normally written up in a recipe (i.e. what's it called)? This is the recipe I used as a base: http://aussiehomebrewer.com/recipe/697-nierra-sevada/
You don't need the calculator, the BIABacus encompasses all.
Awesome.
22C seems a little high to me, but I really don't know
I'll try to keep it on the lower end then. It'll be hard for me to even get as low as 20 I think.
Good question about whirlfloc - I always use it as a habit, so wouldn't know if it does make a difference.
Might as well use it if it's not going to do any harm then...

Thanks for your help!
Last edited by UnknownGuest on 16 Sep 2014, 16:49, edited 1 time in total.

Post #4 made 11 years ago
by PistolPatch
Welcome to the forum UG :salute:,

Sorry we have so far left mally alone to answer all your questions. I'll see if I can help a little here as well...

Firstly, you hare done a really good job on the BIABacus :clap:. I see that mally has answered your 60 minute mash time question in your other thread - excellent. Also though, do a 90 minute boil as much as possible - read here.

I've checked your AHB link. Unfortunately, unless people are AHB members, I don't think they'll be able to view your link above. The recipe looks fine and should make a very nice beer with you using that 28 litres as the VAW.

Your questions are very good. Most recipes that are published and/or you stumble across on the internet, do not use terminology that is clear. This means they are very much open to interpretation or require some advanced skills to interpret correctly. On this site, we call these low integrity recipes. It doesn't mean the recipes themselves are necessarily bad (though they can be), it means they are difficult or impossible to interpret. In the beginner's forum, read the stickied threads that contain the word "integrity" and you'll get some info on this. VAW is the most important volume number when communicating a recipe but you'll hardly ever be able to find it :(.

Soon this site will have a little bank of high integrity recipes. Atm, we tend to deal with recipes on a one on one basis so feel free to continue using this fine service :).

Whirfloc. Yes, use it. In your brew, use about half a tablet. Dissolve it in about 100 ml of boiling water and pour that into the boil at about ten minutes if you are chilling at flame-out or at flame-out if you are say no-chilling.

22C is just okay for that yeast on that recipe but check out some fermenter cooling ideas as a priority.
Last edited by PistolPatch on 17 Sep 2014, 17:21, edited 1 time in total.
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Post #5 made 11 years ago
by UnknownGuest
Thanks so much PistolPatch - that helps in so many ways.

Good point about the AHB link – I forgot to have to sign up to see the recipes.

One more random question: how should I check the temperature of the wort while I'm doing the water bath (to see if it's down to approx. 22 C)? I have a digital thermometer, but I'm assuming it's a potential bacteria problem to take the lid off the pot to check temp?

Post #6 made 11 years ago
by mally
I have one of these.

Not particularly accurate, but you can check against other devices before use.
Last edited by mally on 17 Sep 2014, 19:45, edited 1 time in total.
G B
I spent lots of money on booze, birds and fast cars. The rest I squandered
I've stopped drinking, but only when I'm asleep
I ONCE gave up women and alcohol - it was the worst 20 minutes of my life
    • SVA Brewer With Over 100 Brews From Great Britain

Post #7 made 11 years ago
by UnknownGuest
Oh yeah that'd work. So do you just stick it on the pot once you're chilling? As I guess it might burn when on the boil...

Maybe I could find a magnetic one so I can easily put it on and off the pot.

Post #8 made 11 years ago
by mally
Yep - I guess if it saw temps around 100C it might not work again? :shock:
I was thinking more that you could wait until it felt cool to touch the wall then just stick on with tape. Easy to remove afterwards.

Mine is permanently stuck on the side of the fermentor so is slightly different to your requirements. :luck:
G B
I spent lots of money on booze, birds and fast cars. The rest I squandered
I've stopped drinking, but only when I'm asleep
I ONCE gave up women and alcohol - it was the worst 20 minutes of my life
    • SVA Brewer With Over 100 Brews From Great Britain

Post #10 made 11 years ago
by PistolPatch
The strip that mally has probably would not re-stick more than a few times so maybe try this instead...

Put a sterilised spoon or 'potato masher' in your pot at the end of the boil. put the lid on the pot with the spoon handle sticking out and put a small towell over any gaps. Fill the sink with cold water and occasionally agitate the wort with the spoon or masher. When the water get swarm or hot, dump it and replace. Repeat this and don't rush the process. If you agitate the wort, the bath water will end up beinbg the same temp as your wort so easy to measure. Also check the temp of your tap water so as you know when you are getting close to chilling being complete. Right at the end, add a few ice bricks to the bath and see if you can get the wort down to 17C before pitching. THen pitch and just do your best to not let the wort rise above 22C. Pitch at 22C and it will.

If you are working in a clean kitchen and pitching within a few hours of the boil end,you don't need to be totally paranoid about the wrot being exposed to a bit of air etc.

:peace:
PP
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