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Post #1901 made 11 years ago
by Dazzbrew
PistolPatch wrote:
Dazzbrew wrote:Hi PP, thanks very much!
I should have picked the VAW thing, it makes perfect sence.
Not that the finished colour of the beers i make (up until now being can brews) are important to me as the most important goal for me is to make great tasting beer, if i search the net hard enough will i find a list of common malt EBC's on the net somewhere?
Ah, offcourse, it says grams at the top, not kilograms, ha ha!
I think maybe Mark preferes to sell Brewbright instead of Whirfloc as it's the one listed in the recipe. Does Brewbright come in a tablet ie 3 x tablets needed? or is it a weight measure? (what does the 3 x in the original recipe mean?).
Will my mash temp be 66C for every beer or does it vary depending on what the beer is?
I really like Pacific Ale also, im glad that it seems fairly simple to make (not too many different ingredients or hop additions). Before i saw the recipe i would never have thought that would be the case, once again, thanks for your time/help.
No probs. The VAW thing is hard to clue on to at first because it is usually very hard, often impossible number to find in other programs and recipe reports. Colour formulas are very inaccurate so they are very unimportant. As for common malts,here is a list but all the colours are in lovibond. Fairly nicely laid out though. I'm not familiar with BrewBright but on the little research I have done, looks good! Check with him on the 3 x.

Mash temps vary on the style of beer. I think 66C will be fine for that beer.

Say hi to Mark form me when you next see him.

:peace:
thanks PP, i will.

just a little more help if that's ok. I have had a go at filling in sections E - H but there are quite a few empty fields that i don't know what to do with. I am not familiar with `diacetyl rest' so i will have to research that one. Is there anything else that needs to be filled in before brew day?
I will be brewing in a keggle on a gas burner and no chilling in a cube.
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Last edited by Dazzbrew on 19 Jun 2014, 17:28, edited 6 times in total.

Post #1902 made 11 years ago
by PistolPatch
That all looks great Dazz. Ten days at that temp with that yeast will be more than enough fermentation time.

Maybe let the kettle sit for five minutes after the boil ends before you transfer to c cube, just to let things settle down a bit.

I can't see anything else there that is needed. Good stuff!
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Post #1904 made 11 years ago
by nicko
Hi guys,

I'm looking at doing Ross' Nelson Sauvin Summer Ale as my first BIAB. I've noticed that it's mentioned on here a few times but no recipe has been converted that I could find.

I ordered a 70L round kettle from Craftbrewer today.

I have 2 x 25L fermenters and a temp controlled fridge that fits both. I'm considering no chilling all of a double brew, fermenting half of it then doing the other half later to space out the time required a bit.

Recipe here:

http://www.craftbrewer.com.au/brewing-p ... p?NewsID=7

I tried to post text from the link but it didn't work.

I have absolutely zero idea on BIABacus so far, I really need to sit down and read more one weekend. I'm guessing as soon as I get the Kettle I should work out the evaporation? I'll also create a measure stick for the kettle too.

I read another thread on efficiency and evaporation calculation and it made the room spin slightly :shock: I have zero idea what they are talking about.

I'm reading John Palmer How To Brew when I have time and think I'm getting the basics but start throwing some calculations into a conversation and I feel clueless. I've read pistol patch's very good BIAB guide and watched some great little vids on Youtube, thanks Pistol and everyone that has shared info, it really helps.

Thanks guys!
Last edited by nicko on 26 Jun 2014, 19:52, edited 6 times in total.
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Post #1905 made 11 years ago
by nicko
Also, I'm looking at harvesting some yeast for this brew, maybe from a coopers pale ale, or a sierra nevada if I can find one at uncle dans. Any thoughts, or should I pitch a good packet yeast into a starter this time and harvest that after? Thanks.
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Post #1906 made 11 years ago
by PistolPatch
Good stuff nicko :party:,

I've been writing BIABacus help for half the day so your question comes as a nice break. I'm going to put the recipe in for you and then explain the only things you need to worry about. When we have the help etc finished, things will be really easy as you won't have to deal with recipe reports etc that are massively hard to understand.

I've had this Nelson recipe. At Ross's :). Those were the days. That was when I was in QLD and a few months before we got BIAB underway. It was always fun going to Ross's house and drinking beer from his 9 taps. Sometimes we'd even get on his computer and post under his name - see here :lol:

Okay, in this recipe, I am going to get rid of the mash hops as they are pretty much a waste of time and make an adjustment to the 80 minute hops. You don't need to worry about that. Your kettle is the same capacity as mine so I'll use my height and depth but you will need to double-check that so as the BIABacus can auto-estimate your evaporation rate. Here's the file...
BIABacus PR1.3K - Blonde Ale - Nelson Sauvin Summer Ale - Batch A0 - PP.xls
and here are the only things you need to worry about...
WTD.jpg
1. Check your kettle dimesnsions.
2. Buy the amopunt of grains circled in Section C.
3. Check the AA% of the hops you are buying are 12.5% as listed on the website.
4. Buy the amount of hops circled on the right of Section D.
5. Heat the amount of water on the first line of Section K to whatever strike temperature appears in Section E. (You need to type in your grain temp.)
6. Keep the mash temp at 64C by giving it an occasional agitation, temp check and heat addition if necessary.
7. Check with Ross if he is putting those steeping hops in at the end of his boil and then chilling straight away or whether he is waiting 20 minutes before he is turning his chiller on.

Get back to me with that last answer if you can ;).

:peace:
PP

P.S. Use the dried yeast and harvest from that but check your procedure here first.
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Last edited by PistolPatch on 26 Jun 2014, 21:07, edited 6 times in total.
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Post #1907 made 11 years ago
by nicko
That's great thanks pistol.

I'll check out the funny link later, should be good.

The flavours/aromas sound really nice which is why I picked this one, and Ross rates it 47/50 so if I get it reasonably close I'll be stoked! He also said this recipe was good for checking different hops, so I'll do the recipe again with some other hops like simcoe etc just to see how it goes and what I think of different hops. I've bought two bags of JW pale malt, so I pretty much plan on just doing this recipe at least five times with different hops to get a feel for brewing, then when I've used those bags i'll move onto something else. If I get sick of it I can do a Pale Ale with the Pale malt, so all good!

I tried a simcoe pale ale at my local brew club and it's the nicest beer I've ever had, I thought it was amazing, so a good simco PA will definitely be on the cards sometime.

The harvesting link didn't work but I read about three hours of harvesting articles last night and i'm pretty comfortable doing that (basic harvest, not culturing or washing, stuff that!).

Sorry you've lost me with grain temp, is that immediately after I put the grain in with a strike temp of 64C, I see what it drops to before I heat it back up?

So after i've put the grains in and agitated, i'll check the temp is 64C, if not i'll use more heat, once it's at 64C i wrap it in a blanket or something similar and then check every 10 mins or so?

I'm going to no-chill, there's a lot of discussion as to whether this affects the hop addition times or not? I think someone asked Ross and he wouldn't bother doing the mash hops again, or maybe someone tried without and said it was a waste of hops bascially, not sure? Either way I was planning on skipping those. Making that adjustment was a good point, thanks.

Appreciate the help, Nick.
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Post #1908 made 11 years ago
by PistolPatch
Good stuff Nick,

With the grain, you type in the temperature of your grain. Up your way, it will probably be 20 C or so. You can imagine if your grain was really cold, like 3C, it would be like adding your strike water to ice so you'd have to make your strike water a bit hotter to account for this. Type some different temps in on the second line of Section E and see how the strike temperature on that line changes.

;)
PP
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Post #1909 made 11 years ago
by nicko
PistolPatch wrote:Good stuff Nick,

With the grain, you type in the temperature of your grain. Up your way, it will probably be 20 C or so. You can imagine if your grain was really cold, like 3C, it would be like adding your strike water to ice so you'd have to make your strike water a bit hotter to account for this. Type some different temps in on the second line of Section E and see how the strike temperature on that line changes.

;)
PP
thanks Pat, makes sense mate.

Just wondering, a local brew competition is in October, what's the etiquette about brewing other peoples recipes? I'd like to enter so I guess I'll make up my own recipe by then. Good news is that I found someone fairly close by doing BIAB so I'll hopefully get around to watch a brew.
Last edited by nicko on 27 Jun 2014, 18:39, edited 6 times in total.
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Post #1910 made 11 years ago
by BDP
Hi,

Posting my file, as suggested by Mad_Scientist. Original thread here:
http://www.biabrewer.info/viewtopic.php ... 903#p40907

Thanks for the comments. I also read the very interesting links that Rick replied with. For some reason, I have a funny feeling that I'll be struggling with efficiency for a while to come.

Thanks,
BDP
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Last edited by BDP on 03 Jul 2014, 11:57, edited 6 times in total.

Post #1912 made 11 years ago
by shetc
Rick wrote:I did some digging, and here's what I found ...

Looks to me like actual OG is more like 1.064, and the champagne yeast kicks the attenuation up to 90% or so to hit that 7.6%ABV.

So yeah, this recipe you found isn't a very convincing clone.

http://brooklynbrewery.com/brooklyn-bee" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; ... orachi-ace

Spec Sheet

Style: Single-hop Farmhouse Saison
Malts: German two-row Pilsner Malt
Additions: Brewer’s white sugar
Hops: Washington-grown Sorachi Ace
Yeast: Our special Belgian strain (primary); Champagne yeast (secondary)
Alcohol by Volume: 7.6%
IBUs: 34
Original Gravity: 15.7° Plato
Calories: 208 (per 12oz)
Food Pairings: Pork buns, fish tacos, shrimp, smoked salmon, sushi, prosciutto, curries, salads, grilled meats and fresh goat cheese (such as Westfield Bulk Chevre.)
Availability: Year-round
Format: 750ml cork-finished bottles and (new in 2012) draft
Awards
Hey Guys,

It's been a while since I first brought up this BYO clone of Brooklyn Brewery Sorachi Ace. Based on Rick's comment above, should I consider this recipe to a bust?

Thanks,
Steve
Last edited by shetc on 08 Jul 2014, 00:44, edited 6 times in total.
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Post #1913 made 11 years ago
by PistolPatch
Sorry you haven't got a reply yet Steve. I think Rick has gone into battle with one of the worst recipes I have seen. I thought that since Rick had put so much work into it, I'd just throw it into BeerSmith so as I could investigate whether the IBU discrepancy had something to do with a different IBU estimate formula being used and/or an incorrect IBU formula.

Sometimes I just dig my heels in and will go to great lengths to try and see if I can work out how a published recipe arrived at their dodgy figures. I pretty much know all the errors in programs and terminology and formulas that can lead to certain answers but...

An hour later and I can't make head or tail of that recipe. That recipe needs a Darwin award. Rick mentioned the massive discrepancy in the grain bill and the hop bill. He is totally correct.

[Note to Rick: See on the grain bill? Even the pilsner malt and corn sugar have been given an identical value of 44.3 ppg. Did they just make that up or something? :)]

What I expected to write here...

Steve, before I checked back through the posts, I thought I would be writing that Rick had just pointed out that several parts of the recipe, lacked important information but not to get too worried about it. I was going to say that most recipes you come across lack integrity but that does not necessarily mean that you can't use them as a base and use them to help you make some reasonable assumptions.

I was basically going to say what Rick said to you and back him up by saying...

"The reason we are thorough on this site on numbers is not because you actually need to be spot on in your measurements, it is because if you don't have the right terminology, formulas and program to use, any good recipe will fast lose its integrity. It's like the game of Chinese Whispers, the original message becomes totally lost."

What I will now say is that I would not go anywhere near that recipe. I'd be surprised but definitely not shocked if it is a copy of a recipe from BYO magazine.

...

Now I have just clicked on other parts of the site. :nup: :nup: :nup: :nup: :nup:. I don't know why I waste my time on investigating external recipes/sites anymore. It's like moving a sore tooth with your tongue. You know it's going to hurt but you still do it?

Wtf? :roll: :lol:
Last edited by PistolPatch on 09 Jul 2014, 18:22, edited 6 times in total.
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Post #1914 made 11 years ago
by Rick
lolwut? I hadn't seen that 44.3ppg last time around, haha.

In retrospect, I probably should have trashed the recipe by giving a more black and white response. New brewers, I don't think they need a guy like me treading in the gray area for too long. There was so much wrong with it, but I knew it could make a good beer. Thinking about it more, most recipes out there are SO wrong, yet will make decent beer anyway. We're trying to open people's eyes to inept brewing practices, so I'm going to be a bit more critical in the future.

Just remember folks, I hurt you because I love you. :lol:
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Post #1915 made 11 years ago
by nicko
PistolPatch wrote:Hi again Al ;),

Glad to see you found your way here. Getting you under way properly with this recipe is going to take a few posts. In this post, I have created a master file for Dr Smurto's Golden Ale (see end of post). The good news is that I have worked off a file that we created directly with Mark (Dr Smurto) for BIABrewer a few years ago. This means we can 'undistort' any distortions that have occurred since you came across your file.

...

There are actually very few distortions that have occurred which is pretty amazing. I'm going to change some things though for this master file...

1. I am changing the mash time to 90 minutes. 90 minutes should be the minimum for a BIAB brew. (Traditional brewers are mucking around with sparging after a 60 min mash. This extra mucking around means the grain is being exposed to 'soaking' for at least another 30 minutes. We need to emphasise this more.)

2. I have changed the boil time to 90 minutes. This is a safer and slightly more efficient boil time than 60 minutes.

3. I wasn't quite sure but I think the amarillo hops you have are 10.1%. You'll see I have put this 10.1 on the right hand side of Section D.

4. You were worried about your evaporation rate. The BIABacus auto-estimates it for you. Be aware though that evaporation rates are very inconsistent and change day to day depending on weather conditions, even indoors.

5. A few other small things I have changed that aren't worth a mention.

What You Need to Do...

A. You need to have a beer and just take a look at Sections A, B, C, D and K only. Ask any questions you have. You might have a few.

After we hear back from you on A, then....

B. We will look at Section W. We will be using that section to see if we can get rid of some of those red volume warnings you currently see.

C. And, we will consider if adjusting for no-chill is needed on this recipe.

:peace:
PP
Thanks a lot for this Pat and Dr Smurto, this will be recipe number two in a few weeks time, appreciate this a lot. :salute:
Last edited by nicko on 12 Jul 2014, 10:44, edited 6 times in total.
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Post #1916 made 11 years ago
by nicko
Hey Pat,

About to start brewing mate, estimated volumes have made my head hurt a bit, TWN is 38.51L (Ross' Summer Ale), when I rinse the grains after mashout, how much water do I use? I noticed some guys just squeeze but QLDKev on Youtube rinses his bag, not sure how much water to use if I do this, or if to do this at all?

I'll start heating up the water etc and hope you're home, otherwise I'll just record what I did and post it later.. thanks mate.
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Post #1918 made 11 years ago
by shetc
Ah, well, c'est la vie. I really appreciate your efforts on my behalf, and have noted your comments, Pete and Rick. I will look for a tried and trusted recipe on this site for my 2nd attempt at BIAB. :thumbs:
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Post #1919 made 11 years ago
by JerryCraft
I have a 10 gallon All Grain conventional recipe which I would like to convert and use for a 5 gallon BIAB recipe. The recipe has won several Home Brew contests, and I have tasted and enjoyed it from the original brewer. Not sure if there is a source for the recipe before my contact.

It is my first BIAB batch.
Kettle diameter is 13.5 inches, (33.5 cm).
My burner is Bayou Classic SP10 propane.
Will be using copper immersion chiller.
I have three options for fermentation: Bucket, 6 gallon Better bottle, 5 gallon better bottle.
I usually use the 6 gallon better bottle, and if needed, the 5 gallon for secondary. I use the bucket for bottling.
I sewed my own bag for my 44 quart SS kettle with steamer insert. See below.
Image
The recipe is included in fair detail in attached PDF.
I can paste it in here if needed, but it is fairly detailed.
Kolsch of Redemption 2014.pdf
Help setting up and converting appreciated.
Jerry
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Last edited by JerryCraft on 17 Jul 2014, 10:05, edited 6 times in total.
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Post #1920 made 11 years ago
by PistolPatch
Welcome aboard Jerry :salute:,

How did you spill so much grain over the floor? :lol:. Great job on the bag :clap:.

As for the recipe, I think the best thing is for you to download a blank BIABacus PR 1.3K (top of this post) and then fill in Sections A to D as best as you can. Skip anything that is confusing.

Also have a try at Sections E, G and H.

Once you have done your best, post up your file and one of us will make any corrections and explain what is important. This will be a better way of learning than us just posting up a completed file.

Also, the act of doing the above will de-mystify the BIABacus for you a fair bit. It's actually faster to learn and easier to set-up than your other programs as it makes most of the important decisions for you.

Will look forward to seeing your file :peace:,
PP

P.S. Ignore the water adjustments in the recipe unless you use the same water as the original brewer.

Look forward to seeing your
Last edited by PistolPatch on 17 Jul 2014, 18:27, edited 6 times in total.
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Post #1921 made 11 years ago
by hoffajd
This weekend I am looking to brew the "Hop Hammer" recipe from the AHA website (http://www.homebrewersassociation.org/h ... op-hammer/). It is by far the biggest beer that I have tried and my kettle (32 Qt) will not handle it so I am trying to scale it back to 5 gallons instead of 6 and using about 50% Liquid Malt Extract (LME) in place of 50% of the American 2-row malt.

I have used the BIABacus (1.3K) for two recipes thus far and have been very pleased with the beer I've made using BIAB and the BIABacus. However, I am still trying to understand how to use it effectively, what it's capable of, and what all the fields do. This is the first time I've tried mixing grains and LME with it. Below is the recipe report and this is the entire file for what I've come up with thus far, can someone take a look and tell me if I'm on the right track?

The amounts of LME and grains that the BIABacus is scaling up to seem quite large. Am I missing something? Also, the FG calculated by BIABacus is higher than what the recipe provides is there a way to adjust that? I know the yeast will ultimately determine the FG and it will be what it will be, I'm just wondering what BIABacus uses to calculate what the FG will be.
BIABacus PR1.3K - HopHammerIPA_Jul14.xls
[center]BIABacus Pre-Release 1.3K RECIPE REPORT[/center]
[center]BIAB Recipe Designer, Calculator and Scaler.[/center]
[center](Please visit http://www.biabrewer.info" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; for the latest version.)[/center]
[center]Hop Hammer[/center]

Recipe Overview

Brewer: JD
Style: IPA
Source Recipe Link:
ABV: 7.7% (assumes any priming sugar used is diluted.)

Original Gravity (OG): 1.08
IBU's (Tinseth): 196.9
Bitterness to Gravity Ratio: 2.46
Colour: 12.1 EBC = 6.1 SRM

Kettle Efficiency (as in EIB and EAW): 63.1 %
Efficiency into Fermentor (EIF): 54.1 %

Note: BIAB Variations have been made - See 'BIAB Variations' at end.

Times and Temperatures

Mash:
Boil: 90 min
Ferment:

Volumes & Gravities
(Note that VAW below is the Volume at Flame-Out (VFO) less shrinkage.)
The, "Clear Brewing Terminology," thread at http://www.biabrewer.info/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Total Water Needed (TWN): 33.59 L = 8.87 G
Volume into Boil (VIB): 24.73 L = 6.53 G @ 1.075
Volume of Ambient Wort (VAW): 18.37 L = 4.85 G @ 1.1
Volume into Fermentor (VIF): 19 L = 5.02 G @ 1.08
Volume into Packaging (VIP): 17.59 L = 4.65 G @ 1.02 assuming apparent attenuation of 75 %

The Grain Bill (Also includes extracts, sugars and adjuncts)

Note: If extracts, sugars or adjuncts are not followed by an exclamation mark, go to http://www.biabrewer.info" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; (needs link)

50.6% American two-row malt (3.5 EBC = 1.8 SRM) 4844 grams = 10.68 pounds
3.5% Wheat malt (2.6 EBC = 1.3 SRM) 340 grams = 0.75 pounds
3.5% Crystal (20 EBC = 10.2 SRM) 340 grams = 0.75 pounds
42.3% Light Malt Extract (4 EBC = 2 SRM) 4055 grams = 8.94 pounds



The Hop Bill (Based on Tinseth Formula)

77.7 IBU Warrior Pellets (15%AA) 66.3 grams = 2.34 ounces at 90 mins
67.4 IBU Chinook Pellets (13%AA) 66.3 grams = 2.34 ounces at 90 mins
26.2 IBU Simcoe Pellets (12%AA) 32.6 grams = 1.149 ounces at 45 mins
25.6 IBU Columbus Pellets (14%AA) 32.5 grams = 1.148 ounces at 30 mins
0 IBU Centennial Pellets (9%AA) 74.5 grams = 2.627 ounces at 0 mins
0 IBU Columbus Pellets (14%AA) 107.1 grams = 3.776 ounces at mins (Dry Hopped)
0 IBU Centennial Pellets (9%AA) 58.2 grams = 2.052 ounces at mins (Dry Hopped)
0 IBU Simcoe Pellets (12%AA) 58.2 grams = 2.054 ounces at mins (Dry Hopped)

Mash Steps

Mash Type: BIAB Variation (Non Full-Volume Mash) for 60 mins at C = F
Water Held Back from Mash: 7.6 L = 2.01 G


Mashout for for 1 mins at 78 C = 172.4 F
Water Added After Final Lauter: 3.8 L = 1 G

Water Added to Fermentor: 3.8 L = 1 G

Miscellaneous Ingredients

1/2 Tab Whirfloc (Boil) 5 Mins - Clarity


Chilling & Hop Management Methods

Fermentation & Conditioning

Special Instructions/Notes on this Beer

BIAB Variations

Water Held Back from Mash: 7.6 L = 2.01 G

Water Added After Final Lauter: 3.8 L = 1 G

Water Added to Fermentor: 3.8 L = 1 G
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Last edited by hoffajd on 17 Jul 2014, 20:59, edited 6 times in total.

Post #1922 made 11 years ago
by Hints
hoffajd wrote:The amounts of LME and grains that the BIABacus is scaling up to seem quite large. Am I missing something?
Two fast hints. The 22.7 litres in the original recipe is the VAW not VIF. See Clear Brewing Terminology or search the site for "apples" or "oranges" for further explanation.

With an extract recipe, use BIABacus PR 1.3T as found here. That version is okay to post on the site even though not found in the official pre-release thread.

[Please note that Hints does not reply to direct questions.]
Last edited by Hints on 17 Jul 2014, 21:35, edited 6 times in total.

Post #1923 made 11 years ago
by JerryCraft
OK I had a run at "The Calculaor" and Biabacus...



[center]BIABacus Pre-Release 1.3K RECIPE REPORT[/center]
[center]BIAB Recipe Designer, Calculator and Scaler.[/center]
[center](Please visit http://www.biabrewer.info" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; for the latest version.)[/center]
[center]Sanatar Kolsch[/center]

Recipe Overview

Brewer: Upcraft
Style: Kolsch
Source Recipe Link:
ABV: 4.8% (assumes any priming sugar used is diluted.)

Original Gravity (OG): 1.05
IBU's (Tinseth): 45.8
Bitterness to Gravity Ratio: 0.92
Colour:

Kettle Efficiency (as in EIB and EAW): 83.7 %
Efficiency into Fermentor (EIF): 75.4 %

Note: This is a Pure BIAB (Full Volume Mash)

Times and Temperatures

Mash: 90 mins at 65.5 C = 149.9 F
Boil: 90 min
Ferment: 20 days at 15 C = 59 F

Volumes & Gravities
(Note that VAW below is the Volume at Flame-Out (VFO) less shrinkage.)
The, "Clear Brewing Terminology," thread at http://www.biabrewer.info/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Total Water Needed (TWN): 31.7 L = 8.37 G
Volume into Boil (VIB): 29.9 L = 7.9 G @ 1.041
Volume of Ambient Wort (VAW): 23.31 L = 6.16 G @ 1.05
Volume into Fermentor (VIF): 21 L = 5.55 G @ 1.05
Volume into Packaging (VIP): 19.45 L = 5.14 G @ 1.013 assuming apparent attenuation of 75 %

The Grain Bill (Also includes extracts, sugars and adjuncts)

Note: If extracts, sugars or adjuncts are not followed by an exclamation mark, go to http://www.biabrewer.info" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; (needs link)

90.9% Pilsner 4274 grams = 9.42 pounds
4.5% Vienna 213 grams = 0.47 pounds
4.5% White Wheat 213 grams = 0.47 pounds

The Hop Bill (Based on Tinseth Formula)

45.8 IBU Magnum Pellets (12.2%AA) 34.5 grams = 1.216 ounces at 60 mins


Mash Steps

Mash Type: Pure BIAB (Full-Volume Mash) for 90 mins at 65.5 C = 149.9 F

Mashout for for 1 mins at 78 C = 172.4 F

Miscellaneous Ingredients

1/2 Tab Whirfloc (Boil) 5 Mins - Clarity

Chilling & Hop Management Methods

Hopsock Used: N
Whirlpool: 5 mins after boil end.
Chilling Method: Immersion (Employed 0 mins after boil end.)

Fermentation & Conditioning

Fermentation: Wyeast Kolsch for 20 days at 15 C = 59 F




Req. Volumes of CO2: 2.5
Serving Temp: 10 C = 50 F



Special Instructions/Notes on this Beer
Our water is BAD here in our town. SO we start with RO water and add back essential minerals, thus the water amendments.

END

Seems straight forward. Would be nice to be able to input American units instead of converting to metric to get back to American.
US should just go metric.
I am posting the BIABacus file below.
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Last edited by JerryCraft on 17 Jul 2014, 22:55, edited 6 times in total.
    • SVA Brewer From United States of America

Post #1924 made 11 years ago
by Rick
JerryCraft wrote:OK I had a run at "The Calculaor" and Biabacus...



Hey Jerry,

It's always best to use the brewers original recipe for the left hand side of sections C and D, and then scale with desired VIF in section B. The values on the right side of C and D would then be what you buy for brew day. You entered the hops section correctly, but halved the malts. You'll notice the IBU's are way off as a result.

I determined the original recipe's VAW was 12.5 gallons (you had in 6.34 gallons? This also threw things off a bit). Everything seems to make sense with 12.5G in VAW. I'll attach my edits for you.
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Last edited by Rick on 17 Jul 2014, 23:23, edited 6 times in total.
    • SVA Brewer With Over 20 Brews From United States of America

Post #1925 made 11 years ago
by Rick
Hints wrote:
hoffajd wrote:The amounts of LME and grains that the BIABacus is scaling up to seem quite large. Am I missing something?
Two fast hints. The 22.7 litres in the original recipe is the VAW not VIF. See Clear Brewing Terminology or search the site for "apples" or "oranges" for further explanation.

With an extract recipe, use BIABacus PR 1.3T as found here. That version is okay to post on the site even though not found in the official pre-release thread.

[Please note that Hints does not reply to direct questions.]

For hoffa. You'll notice in 1.3T that you will be able to separate the LME by labeling it "boil only". This will help sort measurements.
Last edited by Rick on 17 Jul 2014, 23:40, edited 6 times in total.
    • SVA Brewer With Over 20 Brews From United States of America
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