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Post #751 made 13 years ago
by PistolPatch
Good on you scon ;). Once you've brewed and tasted this (or any other beer), it can be interesting to look up other recipes and compare them to the one you used. Sometimes you might find a recipe that gives more emphasis to something you might find lacking etc. Here's a thread on AHB with a few SNPA recipes and here's a Northern Brewer thread where the author says he had the brewmaster review the recipe.

One thing to remember is that Sierra Nevada would probably be chilling their wort at about ten minutes after flameout. If you chill later than this, it would probably be worth moving some of those later hops to dry hopping I would imagine.

Hope the rest of the brew day went well scon :peace:,
PP
Last edited by PistolPatch on 02 Dec 2012, 13:57, edited 9 times in total.
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Post #752 made 13 years ago
by scon
Yep, the 0 minute additions I'm going to add once primary has settled a bit. It's currently fermenting at about 16C in my now temperature controlled freezer (wired up my STC-1000 earlier this week.)

In other news, I bottled my NRB Amarillo APA this morning and used a cup of the yeast cake from that to kick off the fermentation in the Sierra Nevada Clone. I kind of freaked out because I bulk primed the Amarillo APA and then bottled, once I'd done that, I tipped up the bottling bucket and tasted a sample from the bottling bucket (try and find me a homebrewer that doesn't do that?!?) and it was like syrup! I usually put about 170g to prime a 20L batch but this was the first time I'd bottled since I got my temperature controller and this brew was about 5C when I primed it - so apparently the amount of sugar I need to add is much much less than if i were bottling at 20C or so which I usually do. Anyways... I might have some odd carbonation in that batch. I was tempted to crack open all of the bottles I'd just capped, pour into the bottling bucket and stir them up as the sugar obviously hadn't mixed thoroughly. Instead I cracked the lid of one of the bottles from about 1/2 way through my bottling and it was the tastiest beer I'd had pre-fermentation so I've decided to RDWHAHB and leave it in the hands of the home-brew gods.

Will be interesting to try my beer next to a proper Sierra Nevada pale and read up on those threads while thinking about what could be done to make it taste better. Anyways, thanks for the advice and encouragement.

Cheers.

Post #753 made 13 years ago
by Lylo
Scon, did you give your priming sugar a good stir. I used to bottle and one of the last times I did,when I got to the bottom of the bucket I found a layer of sugar.I relaxed,didn't worry, and drank flat beer,or at least my buddies did!
AWOL

Post #754 made 13 years ago
by scon
I did stir the sugar but I didn't stir it once I added the wort in the bottling bucket. Have made a mental note to do that from now on. I think I should be alright considering my bottling temp.

Post #755 made 13 years ago
by PistolPatch
scon, with the 20 C versus 5 C bit, work your priming rate off the 20C. Priming equations work off the temperature at which the beer was at the end of fermentation, not temperature at bottling. Cooling after the end of the fermentation will not increase the amount of CO2 trapped in the wort/beer so you will need to prime at the 20 C rate. (Priming calculator here).

:luck:
Last edited by PistolPatch on 07 Dec 2012, 05:52, edited 9 times in total.
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Post #756 made 13 years ago
by scon
Ah, makes sense. I was wondering how the CO2 was getting magically infused into my beer. :blush: Well looks like this batch may be undercarbonated - I've got one that I'm going to taste this evening to see how it's coming along.

Post #758 made 13 years ago
by Mzlsimsmzl
Hi everybody, I have just bought an all grain stout kit from themaltmiller.co.uk, and want to change it an imperial stout so that I can bottle condition and drink next Christmas, is this likely to work and should I do anything different regarding hop additions? I have 100g bramling cross that came with the kit and also have 100g of fuggles in the freezer if you guys think that would be of use. My grain was sent pre crushed and mixed, so I can't jigger the amounts so was just thinking about using less water to hit OG of 1080ish.

My vessel is a 30litre bucket with 2 kettle elements 38cm diameter by 42cm tall and my ingredients are:
4kg Pale malt
400g oat malt
390g flaked barley
240g carafe special III
170g cafe aroma

100g Bramley cross 7% or/and 100g of fuggles 4.5%

Here's hoping this is possible, if I could come out of this with 24 500ml bottles for next christmas that would be great, what are my chances folks?

Post #759 made 13 years ago
by BobBrews
Mzlsimsmzl,

You can always add some table sugar to kick it up a notch. You could add a tin of malt syrup to the wort. You could also add some Dry Malt Extract (DME) to add some potency. Hop flavor fades with time so you might add some extra hops. So if your going to wait a year to drink this your more of a man than I! I am impatient as a child. I can't wait to try this or that? Good luck!
tap 1 Raspberry wine
tap 2 Bourbon Barrel Porter
tap 3 Czech Pilsner
tap 4 Triple IPA 11% ABV
Pipeline: Mulled Cider 10% ABV

http://cheesestradamus.com/ Brewers challenge!
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Post #760 made 13 years ago
by lambert
Mzlsimsmzl,
I would recommend that you brew this one "as is". If you by accident brew a beer that is completely out of balance then you will only know in 12 months time... Knowing the quality products that Rob (malt miller) sell I would guess that kit you bought is good and would be really nice if brewed "as-is". Rather find a good Imperial Stout recipe and brew that for Xmas 2013.

If you do change the kit there is a chance that your brew will turn out absolutely awesome. But it can also turn out like a proper "homebrew". It's like a fart - your own is ok. I've done about 3 brews where I've brewed a recipe as "recomended" and then again with some of my own adjustments/improvements. The recognised recipe was in every instance better than my own concoction.

Whatever you decide to do - enjoy!
B
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Post #761 made 13 years ago
by thughes
" It's like a fart - your own is ok." :lol:

Is that a less politically correct explanation of the "ugly baby syndrome"? :scratch:
Last edited by thughes on 07 Dec 2012, 23:53, edited 9 times in total.
WWBBD?
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Post #762 made 13 years ago
by 2trout
Im gearing up brew again soon and thought I better try the calculator again. Here is what I am working from;

Recipe Specifics
Batch Size (Gal): 5.50 Wort Size (Gal): 5.50
Total Grain (Lbs): 13.50
Anticipated OG: 1.065 Plato: 15.79
Anticipated SRM: 9.6
Anticipated IBU: 62.0
Brewhouse Efficiency: 75 %
Wort Boil Time: 90 Minutes


Grain/Extract/Sugar
% Amount Name Origin Potential SRM
88.8 12.00 lbs./5444g 2-row America 1.036 2
7.6 1.00 lbs./454g Crystal 80L America 1.033 90
3.8 0.50 lbs./227g Cara-Pils Malt 1.033 2

Hops
Amount Name Form Alpha IBU Boil Time
1.00 oz./28g Chinook Whole 13.00 48.0 60 min
1.00 oz. /28g Centennial Whole 10.50 7.8 10 min
1.00 oz./28g Cascade Whole 5.75 4.2 10 min
1.00 oz./28g Cascade Whole 5.75 0.0 Dry Hop
1.00 oz./28g Centennial Whole 10.50 0.0 Dry Hop
1.00 oz./28g Chinook Whole 13.00 0.0 Dry Hop

With this exercise I'm aiming to put 5.5g/20.8l into my fermentor.

below is my calculator attempt.
Copy of celebration draft.xls
Does it look correct?

I do have actual measurements for my own evaporation rate, Trub rate and water usage during the mash(but I did not use them in this calculator attempt.) Can I just plug those numbers into the appropriate cells?

And one last Question. If I want to do a test batch, say a 2G/7.6l batch, can I now play with the Volume into Fermenter (B7) cell, reduce it to 7.6l and run my small batch with those figures?

trout
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Last edited by 2trout on 09 Dec 2012, 06:43, edited 9 times in total.
"All I know is that the beer is good and people clamor for it. OK, it's free and that has something to do with it."
Bobbrews
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Post #763 made 13 years ago
by PistolPatch
Hey there trout ;),

I've change a few things on your file as follows...

1. Played around with the BrewLenght until B11 said 20.82 as the original recipe specifies a wort size of 5.5 gallons. The wort size means end of boil volume. End of boil volume is really what we are interested in when copying a recipe.

2. Changed cell E8 on the Hop Bill sheet to 20.82 L.

3. Also on the Hop Bill sheet, changed any times that said 0 to 0.1. This allows the sheet to scale 0 minute hop additions.

So, that's good to go now. As to your questions...

If you have your measurements for evaporation rate, trub rate etc, then you can just over-write the appropriate cells. No problem there unless you send the file to someone else and don't tell them you have over-ridden the defaults :).

You can change the volume into fermentor figure however, if you do this, the Brewlength figure will not read properly (volume into packaging). To avoid this, the only way is to keep changing the BrewLength number until the Volume onto Fermentor figure reads what you want.

But, yes, you can change the Brewlength abd everything will scale for you no probs.

:peace:
PP
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Post #765 made 13 years ago
by Yeasty
Strengthnhealth wrote:Hi all
2nd post. Having trouble getting the calculators to work with my mac. When I try to download them I just get a bunch of computer giberish. LOL.
It may just be something in my settings but not sure.
I think there are some mac users on the forum so there should be a solution. Try doing a forum search for "mac" or google it to see if excel can be used.

Just found this here which makes no sense to me :roll:

Let us know how you get on..

Yeasty
Last edited by Yeasty on 10 Dec 2012, 02:31, edited 10 times in total.
Why is everyone talking about "Cheese"
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Post #767 made 13 years ago
by Mzlsimsmzl
Thanks for looking lambert, the more I look the more I'm inclined to agree with you I have had a go on the calculator and reckon I can do a 19 litre batch without maxi BIABing, which is probably the way forward for an all grain/BIAB noob! Any idea what temp to mash at?

Post #770 made 13 years ago
by lambert
Strengthnhealth wrote:
joshua wrote:Good Day Keith, I am NOT a MAC-man, or an Apple-eater, but, I found a link that may help...

http://www.ehow.com/how_7193825_open-xl" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; ... c-osx.html
Thanks guys
I got the calculators to open now through google drive but it won't let me adjust the figures. :scratch: :scratch: posting.php?mode=quote&f=5&p=25646#
SnH
I use Libre Office (free) with the calculator and I've noticed that you do get a version for Mac. Maybe give that a try?

Cheers,
B
Last edited by lambert on 10 Dec 2012, 17:02, edited 9 times in total.
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Post #771 made 13 years ago
by lambert
Mzlsimsmzl wrote:Hi everybody, I have just bought an all grain stout kit from themaltmiller.co.uk, and want to change it an imperial stout so that I can bottle condition and drink next Christmas, is this likely to work and should I do anything different regarding hop additions? I have 100g bramling cross that came with the kit and also have 100g of fuggles in the freezer if you guys think that would be of use. My grain was sent pre crushed and mixed, so I can't jigger the amounts so was just thinking about using less water to hit OG of 1080ish.

My vessel is a 30litre bucket with 2 kettle elements 38cm diameter by 42cm tall and my ingredients are:
4kg Pale malt
400g oat malt
390g flaked barley
240g carafe special III
170g cafe aroma

100g Bramley cross 7% or/and 100g of fuggles 4.5%

Here's hoping this is possible, if I could come out of this with 24 500ml bottles for next christmas that would be great, what are my chances folks?
MZ
I'v dialled in the recipe from the Malt Miller site on the Maxi calculator. Attached to this post. You mention that you have a 30L kettle but if I calculate the volume of the 30cm diameter by 42cm height I get to 47,5L?! :scratch: If your measurements are correct then it mean that you can do a normal BIAB. If not, then just adjust the kettle diameter on the Volume tab and the kettle height on the Equipment tab. The calculator will tell you the rest... Have a look at it and play around with the numbers. Shout if you need help!

B
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Last edited by lambert on 10 Dec 2012, 17:44, edited 9 times in total.
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Post #772 made 13 years ago
by 2trout
P.P.

Thanks for the Help on Sunday!

trout
"All I know is that the beer is good and people clamor for it. OK, it's free and that has something to do with it."
Bobbrews
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Post #773 made 13 years ago
by Mzlsimsmzl
@Lambert I screwed up my width measurement :blush:, I have since checked and re-checked and my actual width is 34.4cm I rounded down to 34cm in the calc and worked my brew length out to be a 19 litre "standard" BIAB. I'm kinda happy with that, but it seems like no great shakes to add the 4.1 litre pre boil water to get me a full scale brew on. I am as yet undecided.

Post #774 made 13 years ago
by Strengthnhealth
lambert wrote:
Strengthnhealth wrote:
joshua wrote:Good Day Keith, I am NOT a MAC-man, or an Apple-eater, but, I found a link that may help...

http://www.ehow.com/how_7193825_open-xl" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; ... c-osx.html
Thanks guys
I got the calculators to open now through google drive but it won't let me adjust the figures. :scratch: :scratch: posting.php?mode=quote&f=5&p=25646#
SnH
I use Libre Office (free) with the calculator and I've noticed that you do get a version for Mac. Maybe give that a try?

Cheers,
B
Thanks Lambert. Libre office worked. Now I just have to figure out what beer I'm going to make.
Last edited by Strengthnhealth on 11 Dec 2012, 13:13, edited 9 times in total.

Post #775 made 13 years ago
by lambert
Mzlsimsmzl wrote:@Lambert I screwed up my width measurement :blush:, I have since checked and re-checked and my actual width is 34.4cm I rounded down to 34cm in the calc and worked my brew length out to be a 19 litre "standard" BIAB. I'm kinda happy with that, but it seems like no great shakes to add the 4.1 litre pre boil water to get me a full scale brew on. I am as yet undecided.
The adding the pre boil water should not be any problem at all. Remember to remove 2-3 liters of water (at mashing temp) before adding the grains. Once you've added the grains add the water back into the kettle. This way you will avoid any spills/mess.

Enjoy and let us know how it turned out.

B
Last edited by lambert on 11 Dec 2012, 17:44, edited 9 times in total.
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