Post #26 made 11 years ago
drtablet wrote:I have the BIABacuss if you'd like to see it?
I'd add the file drtablet as there are some numbers there that aren't quite agreeing. :luck:
Last edited by Nuff on 02 Jun 2014, 12:07, edited 1 time in total.

Post #27 made 11 years ago
Measurement Discrepancy

Don't be worried if you don't get the following. Just read the last para of this section.

The numbers that Nuff is referring to would be VFO and VAW.

Volume of Ambient wort = Volume at Flame Out less shrinkage from coolina (about 4%).

Volume of Ambient Wort also equals Kettle to Fermentor Loss plus Volume into Fermentor.

So on one hand, your numbers are saying VAW = 12.5 x 0.96 = 12 litres, whilst on the other hand they are saying VAW = 9.0 + 1.8 = 10.8 litres. So we have a 1.2 litre discrepancy in your actual measurements. My guess is that your VFO measurement was wrong as they are often very hard to measure accurately with all hte steam etc so...

Let's assume your VAW was 10.8 litres. Let's see how your numbers add up...

Your estimated metric gravity points for the brew were about 500 (I need file to be exact.)

Actual VIB * GIB points = 16.0 * 31 = 496 metric gravity points. (That's a good match).

Actual VAW * metric gravity points = 10.8 * 38 = 410 metric gravity points (This is way below the estimate and should match or be close to the above figure. Even if we go for the VAW based on your flame-out measurement, we still only get to 456 points).

What the above all means is that when you look at your BIABacus file in Section P, you are going to find a large discrepancy between EIB and EAW whereas they should be the same in theory. (In practice, due to difficulties of measurement, they rarely match but they should generally be within 5% of each other).

So the first thing to recognise is that there is some sort of measurement error going on which you'll hopefully find is just an aberration on this one brew.

Evaporation

As you said, this is probably the last major cause of your low original gravity. Assuming you have a good rolling boil, here is what I think is happening...

Your batch size is really small compared to your kettle so I think it is possible that the auto-estimate for your kettle is not working well. I would say that a lot of your evaporation actually runs down the side of the kettle back into the wort so your evaporation rate is far lower than the auto-estimate.

Look back over what numbers you have for your brews and see if you can determine what your average evaporation rate is. Use the lowest of these and type it into Section W for your next brew. Or try a larger batch size of around 20 l VIF.

Drink up! :drink:
PP
Last edited by PistolPatch on 02 Jun 2014, 16:28, edited 1 time in total.
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Post #28 made 11 years ago
Thanks Nuff and PistolPatch.

I have attached the BIABacuss from the brew so you can see the figures.
I made a mistake in the spreadsheet (now corrected) that explains the oddness you see.
I also keep paper notes that help when looking back.
My fermentor loss was 2.5 litres (I know this is high but for the moment I am looking for quality of beer so can work on keeping more of this later) and my Volume into the fermentor was 9.5 making 12 litres in total.
I think the issue came from reusing a cloned BIABacuss from a previous brew.
Sorry that you waisted your time there.

Also today I got a 20l stock pot. So for my next brew on Thursday I'll see if this improves the evaporation rate, which it should.

thanks
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Post #29 made 11 years ago
Can't see the mistake that explains the oddness drt. I was hoping that your mistake may have corrected the discrepancy between VFO once chilled (12.02) and your actual VAW (10.8) - see section L. ANyway I am assuming the VFO number was an error.

I see though that I made an error. In my last post for metric gravity points into boil, I should have had 16 * 26 = 416. Correct that for shrinkage and it comes to about 400 points which is very close to the 410 points you had of ambient wort. What does that tell me?

It tells me that your Efficiency into Boil and Efficiency of AMbient Wort are confirming each other. You'll see that in the BIABacus file as well... 69.4% versus 71.2%.

The good news is that your measurements confirm each other. The bad news is that they also confirm that the efficiency problem still exists and evaporation has nothing to do with it :dunno:. (Mind you do those evap corrections I mentioned on your next small batch in the big kettle.)

Now, earlier on we talked about pH but, on reading back through, I can't find any result on this. Does anyone else all-grain around you? Do you know if there are water problems in the area? Did you get to check the pH?

Wow! Don't think I've ever come across an efficiency problem before that has been so hard to solve.

:think: :scratch:
PP
Last edited by PistolPatch on 03 Jun 2014, 22:57, edited 1 time in total.
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Post #30 made 11 years ago
Hi PP,
I previously posted the following on pH.
"My mash pH was around 6 which as far as I understand is OK meaning the water does not need to be adjusted"

However, after reading more into pH (REF: http://www.howtobrew.com/section3/chapter15-2.html)
I understand that at a good target pH is 5.1-5.5

So looks like I may be a little alkaline with the optimum pH being in the range form 4.2 - 5.3 with the most comment compromise being 5.3
http://www.howtobrew.com/section3/chapter14-4.html)

I did the pH test with a grain bill of only 5.4 % crystal. with 5.4% Wheat and the rest Pale Malt. So not much (dark malts) there to reduce the pH to bring it more into the acid ballpark of 5.3.
I figure just add more Crystal/chocolate or other darker grains would bring the pH down to the optimum range.
My Sydney Water treated water figures for the Cascade (treated) area that feeds the Blue Mountains is
pH 7.5
Ca 20.4-24.3
Mg 0.49-1.48
Hardness (CaCO3) 54-65
I've also looked at a few forum posts and people can generally brew pretty good with Sydney water but found that the addition of some CalciumCloride or Gypsum increases efficiency and allows brewing of lighter beers.

So I figure I can do
a) add some more darker grains to bring pH down from 6.0 to 5.3 (hard to judge with pH strips).
b) Add say 30ppm (30 mg/l) to my Mash of Ca ions. So for a 15l Mash I'd add 450mg of CaCl. But I've also read that Gypsum is better to add for Dry Hoppy Bears than CaCl to bring pH down. And you need more of Gypsum because to provide the Ca ions needed.


I sadly did not brew yesterday. I decided to change my 20l pot for 24 lire pot and may not get the chance to brew until mid next week.
I think I'll try option a) first and add more crystal/chocolate and see how my pH drops while I try and get my hands on some CaCl and Gypsum.

Gotta love this craft…. its can of worms after can of worms…
Love it.

Post #32 made 11 years ago
That pH of 6.0 isn't enough to explain the large discrepancy but find out what the Sydney troops are doing and so likewise. As lumpy says, acidulated malt would be easier than using crystals or dark grains. You can even use a bit of white vinegar to lower your pH as yours is pretty close anyway. Another choice is citric acid available from your supermarket.

Fingers crossed for the next one ;)
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Post #33 made 11 years ago
DrT .. no need to leave the lid off when bringing up to a boil. I pull mine at the point of the hot break starting . I switched to a burner plate from my grill side burner and increased my BTUs twofold and my boil is great with the approximately same boil off.
J
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Post #34 made 11 years ago
Conclusion (for now).

I have done quite a few brews and changes to get my efficient improved.
Taking my last brew as an example.

Efficiency into boil. Expected = 82.9 vs actual 76.3
Efficiency of ambient wort. Expected = 82.9 actual 74.7

This is as high as I can get which is considerably higher than the 40-50% ball park I started with.

Things I changed.
1) I am only doing a small batch (5 litres into fermentor) so I changed my 40litre pot for a 24 litre pot.
2) I went back to basics on my volume measurement.
Turns out the kitchen 2 litre jug was out by 9%.
Meaning on my initial brews I was adding over 1.5 litres of water too much.
This meant I ended up with too dilute wort but I did not think too much water.
3) I calculated my evaporation rate of my pot/stove and it was lower than what rate the BIABacus must use by default. In order to get the correct volume at flame out I put 60mins into BIABacus and actually boiled for 90mins. This resulted in the perfect desired and predictable volume.
4) I adjusted my mash pH from around 6 to 5.5
For 12litres of mash I added 5g of CaCl3 and 5g of CaSO4 as well as 50ml of white vinegar.
5) I changed my mash temperature. Before I did 67C for 90mins (which turned out to be 69C because of a crappy thermometer). Changing to 65 was better for sure. But in the end I am doing
Strike @ 65C
Step 1 15mins @ 62C
Step 2 45mins @ 67C
Step 3 15mins @ 72C
No mashout because my bag draw-string started to melt.

Some of these things I changed together so can't be sure what helped the most.
But if I had to say to anyone with efficiency issues the first thing I'd be checking again would be the water volume measuring technique.
Then the thermometer used.
Then the pH

I'm still 6-8% less than predicted. This may be as a result of month old crushed grain or some other factors now.
But for now I am much happier than I was.
Thanks to everyone who helped with advise and suggestions and hopefully my post may help other in the future improve their efficiency.

Post #35 made 11 years ago
Good to see you getting closer drt :peace:,

I'll go through some of the things above but before that, there is one more possible cause, especially since the grain is crushed, and that is moisture content. Let's say you buy one kilogram of grain and it is perfectly dry. Imagine if over time it absorbed 10% moisture. The grain will now weigh 1.1 kilos and so when you weigh ouyt your grain bill you will inadvertently be using less actual grain.

If you have some good scales, you can weigh out your grain in a pan and then dry it in the oven and weigh it again afterwards. You really should be getting about ten percent better than what you are getting at the moment.

On your next brew, use a different brand base malt and get the grain crushed in front of you ;).

....

Using more water does not affect efficiency. If anything, it will improve it as you are 'washing' the grain in more water. If you put two teaspoons of sugar in half a mug of coffee, it will taste really sweet. Put it in a full cup of coffee and it will taste less sweet but there are still 2 teaspoons of sugar there. Efficiency is about the amount of sugar in the wort. A half mug of coffee with two teaspoons is just as 'efficient' as a full mug of coffee with two teaspoons of sugar. Just as...

10 litres of 1.050 wort is as efficient as 20 litres of 1.025 wort.

As for your evaporation rate, go to Section X and change your evaporation rate there. Don't change the boil time.

I hope you can try out the oven experiment! And thanks for keeping us updated :salute:,
PP
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Post #36 made 11 years ago
Way to go drt. Thanks for updating... That's the only way we can help! Plus ...(don't take this the wrong way) But, we ALL learn from each others mistakes as nobody has the Midas Touch !!
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