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will this recipie work as a biab

Post #1 made 14 years ago
by uk brewer
it a severa nevada ipa clone,
i have bought the grains and hops as a kit here in the uk. :party:

would i need to adapt it for a biab brew..it will be my 1st attempt, :peace:


these amounts are supposed to be for 40 pints

how much water will i need to mash with, i have a 76l pot on gas,

Ingredients

Amount Item Type % or IBU
5.45 kg Lager Malt or Lower Colour Maris Otter These are the grains that need mashing
0.45 kg Light Caramel/Crystal Malt - 40L
30.00 gm Northern Brewer (60 min) Hops 38.7 IBU
Thirty grams of Northern brewer hops go into the wort as soon as it starts to boil. 38.7 IBU is the amount of bitterness the hops add to the wort.
30.00 gm Cascade (10 min) Hops 5.0 IBU
Thirty grams of Cascade hops are added to the boil 10 minutes before the end
70.00 gm Cascade (1 min) Hops 9.7 IBU Seventy grams of Cascade hops are added to the boil with just 1 minute to go

1 Pkgs SafAle US-05 Yeast This is the yeast used to ferment the beer. Different yeast produces different flavour in the beer. US-05 allows the flavour of the hops to shine through

Beer Profile

Measured Original Gravity: 1.053 SG The gravity shows the amount of fermentable sugar in the beer. Here it is measured before the yeast is added
Measured Final Gravity: 1.010 SG This is the gravity of the beer after the ferment. A simple calculation allows the alcohol percentage to be worked out
Actual Alcohol by Vol: 5.60 %

Bitterness: 53.4 IBU Different syles of beer have different amonts of bitterness. This beer is quite bitter but correct for the style
Est Color: 6.2 SRM SRM is a unit to measure colour, its the same as the EBC rating you will see next to the malts for sale. This is a very pale ale

many thanx in advance for your input,

Post #2 made 14 years ago
by Lylo
uk brewer,someone is going to come back to you soon with the question,"what is your pot diameter".They will then ask you to try inputting your numbers into "the calculator"and they will gude you from there.Be patient they are out there.Good luck. :)
AWOL

cheers guys.

Post #3 made 14 years ago
by uk brewer
im not in a rush to start....[ive been getting ready since dec...lol]

heres a pic of the grains i got to spur you all on.....there should be enough for 80 pints... :party:

its supposed to make a great brew...
Image
Last edited by uk brewer on 03 Aug 2011, 22:47, edited 5 times in total.

Post #4 made 14 years ago
by PistolPatch
Hi there ukb,

The best way to work out how much beer you will get from the grains and hops you have on hand, is to spend a half hour studying The Calculator here. It's a simple but very good recipe scaler and all the formulas (similiar to joshua's) are visible. This is assuming you are familiar with spreadsheets though.

Once you've had a look at that, have a read of the first two posts of this thread and ask any questions you have there as it is quicker and easier to get questions answered if you use the spreadsheet.

You'll end up doing a lot of recipe conversion so it is a good area to become familiar with this sooner rather than later.

Great size pot by the way. You'll be able to do single or double batches in that pot and only have to use a bit of top up water for the doubles.

Cheers,
PP
Last edited by PistolPatch on 04 Aug 2011, 07:36, edited 5 times in total.
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Post #5 made 14 years ago
by rich27500
That looks like the Sierra Nevada pale ale clone recipe pack I bought. Very nice ale indeed. I have some in my stock for xmas presents, surprisingly I keep going back for 1 last quality control.

Post #7 made 13 years ago
by uk brewer
ive had a look at a few calculators [ they take a bit of gettin used too] :dunno:

and im thinking of something like this

4 kg maris
1/2 kg crystal
1/2 kg of pale wheat,

36 litres of water,
90 min mash and mash out ,
60 min boil.



the hops i have are;

fuggles
cascade
bobek

any suggestions for hop additions based on these... i like a hoppy -ish beer.. :)

many thanx for your time ..i will be postin pics and results as it goes along... :party:

Post #8 made 13 years ago
by BobBrews
uk brewer,

Save the cascade for dry hoping if you like a hoppy beer. Also, FWH (First wort hop) whatever your bittering hop is.
tap 1 Raspberry wine
tap 2 Bourbon Barrel Porter
tap 3 Czech Pilsner
tap 4 Triple IPA 11% ABV
Pipeline: Mulled Cider 10% ABV

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Post #9 made 13 years ago
by uk brewer
BobBrews wrote:uk brewer,

Save the cascade for dry hoping if you like a hoppy beer. Also, FWH (First wort hop) whatever your bittering hop is.

good idea bob ,,thats a few hops in the fv..?

what about a hop tea added into the fv ...?
Last edited by uk brewer on 23 Nov 2012, 18:41, edited 5 times in total.

Post #10 made 13 years ago
by BobBrews
uk brewer,

After the majority of fermentation is done just dump the dry hops into the carboy or bucket. After a week or 10 days, keg or bottle. Hops themselves won't cause an infection but a hop tea might? I would save hop tea or my hop vodka for adding to a glass of beer to kick up a dull or boring beer! Dry hopping with either pellet or whole leaf is save and easy.

http://www.stempski.com/hop_vodka.php This is my goofy hop vodka method. :party:
Last edited by BobBrews on 23 Nov 2012, 20:55, edited 5 times in total.
tap 1 Raspberry wine
tap 2 Bourbon Barrel Porter
tap 3 Czech Pilsner
tap 4 Triple IPA 11% ABV
Pipeline: Mulled Cider 10% ABV

http://cheesestradamus.com/ Brewers challenge!
    • SVA Brewer With Over 100 Brews From United States of America

Post #12 made 13 years ago
by uk brewer
uk brewer wrote:ive had a look at a few calculators [ they take a bit of gettin used too] :dunno:

and im thinking of something like this

4 kg maris
1/2 kg crystal
1/2 kg of pale wheat,

36 litres of water,
90 min mash and mash out ,
60 min boil.



the hops i have are;

200g fuggles
200g cascade
100g bobek

any suggestions for hop additions based on these... i like a hoppy -ish beer.. :)

many thanx for your time ..i will be postin pics and results as it goes along... :party:

bump,
im lost on this hop thing .. :dunno:

which should i use ... and when..

on the plus side i have fired up the boiler today and sorted out my water and recipe ,
and printed out a list of what to do temps times etc..
im startin to get a bit giddy about my 1st biab... :party:
Last edited by uk brewer on 24 Nov 2012, 08:10, edited 5 times in total.

Post #14 made 13 years ago
by PistolPatch
What are the alpha acid percentages of the hops you have on hand uk? Once we know those, we can work things out pretty easily.

;)
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Post #15 made 13 years ago
by BobBrews
uk b,

Dump the fuggles in at the 60 minute mark of a 90 minute boil or as FWH, add right after the mash as the temperature rises to the boil? Add the Bobek in the last 10 minutes and dry hop the Cascade? It's going to work out great no matter what you do. Write it down in a log and next time change things around? Don't worry about it just learn and "Write it down" You won't remember what exactly you did? No Worries mate!
tap 1 Raspberry wine
tap 2 Bourbon Barrel Porter
tap 3 Czech Pilsner
tap 4 Triple IPA 11% ABV
Pipeline: Mulled Cider 10% ABV

http://cheesestradamus.com/ Brewers challenge!
    • SVA Brewer With Over 100 Brews From United States of America

Post #16 made 13 years ago
by joshua
Bob, i saw the hops i have are;

200g fuggles
200g cascade
100g bobek

Should the FWH/Bitterness be 30+-gram (fuggles)
Flavor be 28-56gram (bobek)
And Cascade be 50-70gram (cascade)??????
Honest Officer, I swear to Drunk, I am Not God.
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Post #17 made 13 years ago
by BobBrews
Sounds and smells like a wonderful beer! I can't see anyway to screw it up"? Personally I would....

Fuggle for 60 min. FWH or at the 60 minute mark of a 90 min boil?
Bobek for 15 min? late hop addition last 10 - 15 min.
Cascade for a week after primary fermentation is done. No secondary. Dumped in the primary? (if reusing yeast cake then use a secondary)?

The times and amounts can vary a lot? 1 *ounce packages for each addition (*28 grams)

UK Fuggle Typical alpha: 3-5%. Wonderful earthy, pipe-tobacco, floral character. Classic hop for any English ale.

Styrian Bobek Typical alpha: 3.5-7%. Low to moderate alpha and earthy, slightly fruity aroma. Use in English, Belgian, and US ales.

Cascade Typical alpha: 4.5-7.0%. Unmistakable grapefruit aroma and flavor, signature hop of many American ales.
Last edited by BobBrews on 25 Nov 2012, 00:41, edited 5 times in total.
tap 1 Raspberry wine
tap 2 Bourbon Barrel Porter
tap 3 Czech Pilsner
tap 4 Triple IPA 11% ABV
Pipeline: Mulled Cider 10% ABV

http://cheesestradamus.com/ Brewers challenge!
    • SVA Brewer With Over 100 Brews From United States of America

Post #18 made 13 years ago
by uk brewer
nice one guys ..im really greatful for the help... :clap: :clap: :salute:

im doing this tomorrow [sunday] and will keep ya posted,

its my 1st biab ... :cool:

i will be
adding 30g of fuggles at the start of the boil [60 mins]
bobek for the last 10 mins,

and the cascade into the fv next week...

really looking forward to this 1st real brew... :thumbs: :thumbs:

Post #19 made 13 years ago
by PistolPatch
:luck: tomorrow uk. All will be good :peace:

I'm really enjoying, or perhaps better said would be, am fascinated by this thread. In some ways it is great and in some ways it is really bad. It's great because I know you will brew a great beer. It's bad because we could have given you a lot better advice, more quickly.

I think one of the main things you were asking here is how many grams (ounces) of hops to add and when. You never received an answer to this. All the necessary info we needed was actually in your first post except for one thing...
PistolPatch wrote:What are the alpha acid percentages of the hops you have on hand uk? Once we know those, we can work things out pretty easily.;)
Your first post here had the individual IBU contribution for each hop addition but unfortunately, this is almost meaningless these days thanks to poor terminology, crappy software etc, etc, etc. IBU's these days is the equivalent of, 'free range,' in egg farming. e.g. "Was that two or six hens per yard you are talking about?" With hens, you at least get the same size egg. In brewing you don't.

So, when you are 'buying' a recipe, always ask the vendor exactly what they mean by IBU's. You'll never get a straight answer (they don't even know!) so when they do that, then say, "Can I please buy your hop bill in grams and AA%?"

It's a hard ask these days but weight, AA%, boil time and even chilling time are the basic questions we want answered when looking at a recipe's hop bill. Luckily, all-grain is really hard to bugger up so no matter what you do, you will nearly always get a good beer.

Tomorrow will be fine and fun but I am disappointed that we couldn't give you 'stricter' guidelines for your first brew. Am really looking forward to hearing how you go uk.

:peace:
PP
Last edited by PistolPatch on 25 Nov 2012, 21:50, edited 5 times in total.
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Post #20 made 13 years ago
by joshua
PP, I buy Hops by the Pound/455Gram, and spend most time Figuring how many Grams of this AA%, I need to add at.....minutes to get these.......IBU's.
Which program, using which formula, will give me the EXACT bitternes, Flavor, and Aroma, that I have no real Idea I want??!!!! Brewing is GREAT!!!
Honest Officer, I swear to Drunk, I am Not God.
    • SVA Brewer With Over 100 Brews From United States of America

Post #21 made 13 years ago
by thughes
I guess we didn't want to scare uk away with a long dissertation on the technical intricacies of figuring out hop additions?

I tend to brew in a method similar to BB: simply making an educated guess at what might be good and then going for it! The critical part of this method is throughly documenting what you did so that it can be repeated (or modified) in the future. It also requires that you brew a lot of beer to get a feel for how things "work"....similar to how a great chef creates a gourmet dish

--Todd
WWBBD?
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Post #22 made 13 years ago
by uk brewer
hey thanx guys,... :thumbs:

i had rough ideas but was not really sure on the hops as they came with the kit,

it all went really well, :thumbs:
no major probs,


listed the whole process with temps/times and method so now have a good base to work from,

i have 21 litres in a cube..... boy that took a while to cool... :think: and its bloody wet and cold here in the uk,

and 4.5 litres from the bottom of the brew with the trub in, in a dj.. thats already fermenting, :cool:

there was some hot break but not much,


will measure the sg when i ferment the 21L ...


i have plenty of piccys so will post a thread up soon..

cheers .. art b
[piss wet ] England, uk

Post #24 made 13 years ago
by Yeasty
Well done UK you made beer :clap: :clap:

What are you brewing next ? be sure to post your recipe in good time so we can check it over for you. Do this before you order your gear so that you can scale the amounts to your equipment. Recipe kits are ok but they are calculated to average values and efficiencies which is not always ideal.

:salute:

Yeasty
Why is everyone talking about "Cheese"
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Post #25 made 13 years ago
by uk brewer
im well chuffed to have done the 1st brew.... :champ: :salute:

i have the same amount of grain left , i split it 50/50

so i can do another asap,

i may tinker a bit , and go for a lighter but hoppier beer, leave out the crystal or i mmay double the crystal 1kg and see how that comes out... im quite looking forward to seeing different concoctions,
mind you i dont know what the 1st one will taste like yet,

im not over keen on the pre-planning.. but more interested in doing a few brews to get some data..

im gonna knock up a fermenting cabinet , heated with a light bulb and dimmer switch , that will be on wheels and live in the kitchen, will be useful for storing stuff and using to use as a table for the brew days,
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