I'm on the scrounge for an ESB recipe...

Post #1 made 13 years ago
for someone's favorite tried and tested ESB recipe that I can get stuck into. I was also looking at something like a Hobgoblin but couldn't find any recipe where there was a consensus on correct ingredients. I don't know about some of you but deciding on what to brew and the recipe to use really stresses me out. I get the same way when choosing what film to watch or what book to read. I should probably see someone about it :think:


Anyhow,

would be really interested to see what some of you suggest. currently have an oatmeal stout and a Marris Otter Simcoe SMaSH fermenting away.


Cheers,

Lee :salute:

Post #3 made 13 years ago
Thanks for that, looks just the ticket. Later in the thread BierMuncher says that he has since used MO as the base grain - sounds even better. I'm about to place my grain order, will let you know how it turns out in a few weeks.

Any other recommendations welcome :)

Post #4 made 13 years ago
BrewBagMan wrote:Any other recommendations welcome :)
Yes BrewBagMan, I think Mally's version of Tribute here would turn out to be very good. It's on my To-Do list. I’d be interested to hear what happens if you try it. :lol:
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Last edited by GuingesRock on 30 Mar 2013, 17:16, edited 2 times in total.
Guinges

Post #5 made 13 years ago
Hey Guinges, Malley is looking mighty fine in that shot!! I saw the 'St Austell' challenge post and became pretty interested. I'm originally from ooop norf in the UK so have had little exposure to southern brews. I've read some negative reviews of the brewery but will probably give it a go anyway. You know what would be really cool... if we could get a few BIABers to brew the beer then have tasting LIVE over 'Google Hangout' or Skype? Who's in??

Post #8 made 13 years ago
BrewBagMan wrote:I'm on the scrounge...for someone's favorite tried and tested ESB recipe that I can get stuck into.

Cheers,

Lee :salute:
Does anyone have other bitter recipes for BrewBagMan?

Bitter is what us ex-pat Brits/brats miss the most.

Ps. A recipe Link: http://www.northernbrewer.com/learn/doc ... rain-kits/
That Joshua posted here: http://www.biabrewer.info/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=1963
That has an ESB: http://www.northernbrewer.com/documenta ... Bitter.pdf
And a Bitter: http://www.northernbrewer.com/documenta ... Bitter.pdf

pps. Might get some design ideas from: http://www.tastybrew.com/newrcp/styleview.html
Last edited by GuingesRock on 31 Mar 2013, 17:42, edited 2 times in total.
Guinges

Post #11 made 13 years ago
BrewBagMan.

Use the recipe below. But use New Zealand Super Alpha hops http://www.northernbrewer.com/shop/new- ... -1-oz.html

Use 2 oz for bittering and 1 oz for dry hoping. I call it "Terlingua Snake Bite" It's very dry like the desert town it's named for but refreshing and thirst quenching. Super Alpha has a soft aroma that is mainly floral with a bit of citrus, giving impressions of lemongrass and aromatic cedar.

http://www.northernbrewer.com/documenta ... Bitter.pdf

good luck! :luck:
Last edited by BobBrews on 01 Apr 2013, 20:56, edited 2 times in total.
tap 1 Raspberry wine
tap 2 Bourbon Barrel Porter
tap 3 Czech Pilsner
tap 4 Triple IPA 11% ABV

Pipeline: Mulled Cider 10% ABV

http://cheesestradamus.com/ Brewers challenge!
    • SVA Brewer With Over 100 Brews From United States of America

Post #12 made 13 years ago
Well... think I have enough here to be getting on with :)

I like the look of the Northern Brewer ESB - Nice simple grain bill appeals to me.

Bob, think I might try the standard version and then see what I can muster in way of these NZ super hops... I does like a bit of cedar.

If you have a spare 40 mins give this episode of Dogfish Brewery a go They use Cedar offcuts - to what seems to good effect - certainly got me thinking.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zkRCbrl5jlk

Post #14 made 13 years ago
BrewBagMan wrote:Bob or Guinges, just out of interest... with the Northern Brewer recipes do you guys go with their recommended 60 minutes mash plus 10 min mashout; and their 60 min boil?

Lee
Good Question. I never made one (yet). Bob has, and I think maybe Joshua too.

A shorter mash time should leave more unfermentable sugars and dextrins in the beer. Thus a sweeter and more malty beer with more body. This may be part of the design of the beer. Lengthening the mash time should produce a dryer more alcoholic beer. Although temperature of the mash, I think, is a bigger factor.

Those recipes are I presume written for 3V brewing. Using them for BIAB, I don't know if the mash time should be changed/adapted because a different process is being used? I suspect not, but don't know for sure.
Last edited by GuingesRock on 02 Apr 2013, 17:17, edited 2 times in total.
Guinges

Post #15 made 13 years ago
GuingesRock wrote: A shorter mash time should leave more unfermentable sugars and dextrins in the beer. Thus a sweeter and more malty beer with more body.
From my understanding (taken with pinch of salt), I too thought Alpha and Beta-amalase conversion/activation?? was controlled via temp? Well there you go, always learning :)

p.s. ordered my Tribute grain. Collect tomorrow #woot!
Last edited by BrewBagMan on 02 Apr 2013, 17:24, edited 2 times in total.

Post #16 made 13 years ago
BrewBagMan,
1. Bob or Guinges, just out of interest... with the Northern Brewer recipes do you guys go with their recommended 60 minutes mash plus 10 min mashout; and their 60 min boil?
2. From my understanding (taken with pinch of salt), I too thought Alpha and Beta-amalase conversion/activation?? was controlled via temp? Well there you go, always learning
3. A shorter mash time should leave more unfermentable sugars and dextrins in the beer. Thus a sweeter and more malty beer with more body. This may be part of the design of the beer. Lengthening the mash time should produce a dryer more alcoholic beer. Although temperature of the mash, I think, is a bigger factor.
1. Generally I do a 60 or 70 minute mash with all the Northern Brewer recipes. Unless its a super large grain bill or exotic ingredients a hour is more than enough. The majority of the starch to sugar conversion is done in the first 15 minutes anyway. I don't officially do a mashout. I leave the bag in while heating the wort and pull the bag out just before 170F (76.6C) to drain while hanging.

2. It is ..

Phytase (86-126 F) – Lowers the pH of the mash. Lowering the mash pH has a number of benefits, though a Phytase rest is rarely used by modern brewers.
Debranching (95-112 F) – Helps to increase the solubility of starches resulting in increased extraction for certain malts.
Beta Glucanese (95-113F) – Breaks down the gummy heavy starches, which can help improve stability and extraction, particularly for mashes high in proteins and adjuncts such as wheat.
Pepidase (113-131F) – Produces free amino nitrogen, which can aid in fermentation.
Beta Amylase (131-150F) – Produces maltose, the main sugar fermented in beer.
Alpha Amylase (154-162F) – Produces a variety of sugars, including maltose and also some unfermentable sugars. Mashing at the higher end of this range produces more unfermentables and therefore more body in the finished beer.

3. [See Above]the length of the mash is not really involved. If you want a higher alcohol (thinner tasting) beer? Mash at a lower temp (145F- 151F) If you want a (Fuller tasting) sweeter beer? Mash at (156F - 160F). To split the difference mash at (152 - 155F). All the temps are approximate but ball park.
Last edited by BobBrews on 02 Apr 2013, 21:06, edited 2 times in total.
tap 1 Raspberry wine
tap 2 Bourbon Barrel Porter
tap 3 Czech Pilsner
tap 4 Triple IPA 11% ABV

Pipeline: Mulled Cider 10% ABV

http://cheesestradamus.com/ Brewers challenge!
    • SVA Brewer With Over 100 Brews From United States of America
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