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Post #27 made 10 years ago
by Mad_Scientist
Thanks for posting BDP :P

There is much information on how to figure IBU contribution to a whirlpool/hop stand and also when/if any, a homebrewer uses a chiller.

The attached file shows the recipe I use.

Screen shot below in Section G shows I no chill and Section I details what I do for the 0 mins./flame out hops.

Stering* 9 mins. calculation (Section D)

(Section I)
* = 0 min. actual flame out addition. (6 min. is for bittering calculation. Use paint strainer bag as hopsock, pull and squeeze after 20 min. of 208-190F hop steep.)

Rick uses a 12 mins. calculation and a 30 mins. hop stand between 212-180F, I believe.

Cheers

MS
Dead Guy hop special instructions.jpg
BIABacus PR1.3K - Mad Scientist Dead Guy 6-28-13 (2).xls
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Last edited by Mad_Scientist on 25 Aug 2015, 21:59, edited 3 times in total.
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Post #28 made 10 years ago
by Rick
That byo article is in the second post of this thread (as well as the 9th), we've been working to it for a while now. That's where my initial 12 minute calculation was derived from, to match the "reasonable" utilization percentage mentioned there.

I've been editing my recipes to 9 minutes lately (for the aforementioned 30 mins. hop stand between 212-180F), as a few of us have been in agreement that utilization seems a bit less.
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Post #29 made 10 years ago
by BDP
MS, your BIABacus really helped, thanks! Here's mine, attached. Will have to wait a while for our temperatures to drop below 16C before I can brew this puppy.
BIABacus PR1.3T - Maiboch Ale - Rogue Dead Guy Ale - Batch A0.xls
(updated 08/26/2015)

Cheers
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Last edited by BDP on 26 Aug 2015, 12:31, edited 3 times in total.

Post #30 made 10 years ago
by BDP
A couple of items I am not sure about:
* My color estimate is half of the target beer = 16L. Am wondering what the Risk and Dare malts contribute to color, and what exactly would be the closest non-proprietary retail malt one could substitute with.
* In section D, I've set the desired IBU to 40. Since I've set the Substitution hop AA% values, why do the "What you will use" weights change when I change the original hop bill AA% values? :scratch: . Maybe this will be clear to me in the morning.

Time for :sleep:

Cheers

Post #31 made 10 years ago
by BDP
I updated my file in my earlier post #29.

Also figured out the IBU question. Clearly, the AA% of the original hop bill is important, as it affects the relative 'hop weightings' of the actual hop bill. The podcast mentions the AA% of the Perle as 7.5%, so I have assumed the same for the Sterling, since they are roughly in the same range (HopUnion.com). MS: you have yours set much lower - any particular reason?

Still concerned about the color.

Cheers

Post #32 made 10 years ago
by Mad_Scientist
You have changed my original recipe already!!! :shock: ,, lol JK. :lol: Now it has no integrity. Darn internet. :lol:
BDP wrote:you have yours set much lower - any particular reason?
Substitutions go on the right hand side. Those were the hop AA% 's printed on my packet.
BDP wrote:Still concerned about the color.
To quote John in the podcast, "those numbers are a little off", when speaking of finishing gravity. I can't resolve the color either.
Last edited by Mad_Scientist on 27 Aug 2015, 08:54, edited 4 times in total.
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Post #33 made 10 years ago
by BDP
LOL :peace:

When I brew this, I'll bolster the color with 100gr or so of Carafa II. I want to ferment at 16C, so will have to wait until late October before I can brew it (... no temp control mechanism). I have one more store bought bottle left, otherwise I can't find them in our local stores. Looking forward to savoring it!

Cheers

Post #34 made 10 years ago
by Mad_Scientist
Rogue used Carastan malt in the early days of making Dead Guy (currently C15), I believe us homebrewers believed it to be Carastan Light. :dunno:

Attached is my updated screen shot using Carastan Dark as a substitution. The darkest color I come up with is 22.3 EBC. Rogue has never used Carafa II for Dead Guy. I updated C 15 EBC to 38.5 EBC.
Carastan.png
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Last edited by Mad_Scientist on 28 Aug 2015, 08:58, edited 2 times in total.
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Post #35 made 10 years ago
by BDP
Noted, M_S. Was just trying to come up with a way to boost the color without changing the flavor. Not only, as you noted, are the numbers a little off, but I suspect there may be one or two 'secret' ingredients that he is not divulging. Color example: using just 30gr of roasted barley on a 5G brew was sufficient to adjust a pale ale I brewed, with no detectable effect on taste. Anyway, color is just cosmetic. I think the flavor is key, so will forgo any further bastardization of your recipe :salute: .

Cheers

Post #38 made 10 years ago
by Scott
Hey Mad Scientist,

I had a couple pints of this last night with dinner at my local bar here in Jefferson, Oregon. Local bar always has it on tap. Have always liked it and sometimes more than others... Last night was especially enjoyable!

John Meier seemed like a really nice guy when I met him at the Rogue bar there in Newport, 10-15 years back. Him and his old dog Brewer...who is now immortalized. Anyhow, one of these days I may have to borrow your recipe... :-) Always good beer at Rogue. Thankfully even more great places to go for good beer here in Oregon than there were 15 years ago! You'll need to come back... ;)

Scott
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Post #39 made 10 years ago
by BDP
Hi Mad_Scientist,

Finally brewed this on the weekend! My OG was a bit low at 1.058, because I should have based my grain bill on 70% efficiency and not the 75% I used. I don't think this will be a noticeable issue though. The color seems great to me, btw. Will post an update on the end result in about a month from now. Thanks again for sharing the recipe details.

Cheers
BDP

Post #40 made 10 years ago
by BDP
Hi M_S, what FG are you hitting? I measured 1.014 today when bottling. Sample tasted pretty good, and the color looks good too. Glad you stopped me from messing with the recipe :)

Cheers

Post #41 made 10 years ago
by Mad_Scientist
That's a very good question there, BDP. I don't think I have ever mentioned that info before.

In the interview, John states to target finishing gravity between 4 and 4.5 °P.

Targeting a 1.065 SG and a 1.016 FG (that would make it the lowest finishing gravity and a 75% apparent attenuation).

Cheers ! ;)

MS
Last edited by Mad_Scientist on 11 Mar 2016, 06:43, edited 7 times in total.
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Post #42 made 10 years ago
by Mad_Scientist
BDP, I've read in the 'Brewing Water' thread that you bought a roll of pH Duotest paper. Did you take a pH of this brew of yours?

My brew (screenshot above) was calculated to pH 5.2 and I'm thinking that was too low.
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Post #43 made 10 years ago
by BDP
Hi M_S, good to hear back from you :) Yes, indeed, the pH was sitting at 5.5 a few minutes into the mash schedule. I withheld lactic acid addition, as I seemed to recall that a lower pH favors a more attenuative wort, which is not what I wanted. And thanks for your previous answer to my FG question. Looks like mine will be on the dry side unfortunately. Do you think that a lower than targeted OG would have contributed to this? Otherwise next time I might have to compensate with an even higher mash temperature. Incidentally, my mash temp was spot on the prescribed target, which is a first for me (and surprising since it was about -3C outside, but I covered the kettle in multiple blankets which apparently did the trick).

Cheers!

Post #44 made 10 years ago
by Mad_Scientist
BDP wrote: Yes, indeed, the pH was sitting at 5.5 a few minutes into the mash schedule. I withheld lactic acid addition, as I seemed to recall that a lower pH favors a more attenuative wort, which is not what I wanted. And thanks for your previous answer to my FG question. Looks like mine will be on the dry side unfortunately. Do you think that a lower than targeted OG would have contributed to this? Otherwise next time I might have to compensate with an even higher mash temperature. Incidentally, my mash temp was spot on the prescribed target, which is a first for me (and surprising since it was about -3C outside, but I covered the kettle in multiple blankets which apparently did the trick).
Cheers!
I would guess that the biggest factor is temperature. During a 90 minute mash, maybe the 'average' temperature was slightly lower than our target. Yes, just try a slightly higher mash temperature.
Last edited by Mad_Scientist on 17 Dec 2015, 09:54, edited 3 times in total.
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Post #45 made 10 years ago
by Mad_Scientist
BDP wrote: Finally brewed this on the weekend! My OG was a bit low at 1.058, because I should have based my grain bill on 70% efficiency and not the 75% I used. I don't think this will be a noticeable issue though.
I had a play with my file. I removed the 9% auto kettle efficiency and our recipes normal estimated efficiency is 79.9%. That would increase my grain bill from 12.99# to 14.46# or 6557 g. I will brew this again doing this.

You might set yours to 70% and we'll compare notes later. ;)
Dead Guy actuals 9-23-2015(2).png
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Last edited by Mad_Scientist on 17 Dec 2015, 10:07, edited 4 times in total.
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Post #46 made 10 years ago
by BDP
I agree: 70% efficiency, and 154F mash temp should make a huge difference. Next time! :salute:

(Will post back here with tasting notes in about two weeks from now)

Post #47 made 10 years ago
by BDP
Hi Mad_Scientist,

After about a month in the bottle, here are my tasting notes as promised:
Malty, upfront sweetness with a balanced bitterness in the finish. Clean, no fruity esters. Slightly under-carbonated, with no lingering head. Some chill haze.
DeadGuy1.jpg
Overall I’m very pleased with my first attempt at this recipe. Next time I’ll up the priming sugar slightly by 20g, for 120g total. We don’t get Dead Guy in our liquor stores, and it was a while ago since I tasted it while in the US, but if memory serves me the color is pretty close. I think mine is sweeter though. Would love to have done a side-by-side comparison.

Hope your 2016 is starting off well.

Best regards,
BDP
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Last edited by BDP on 14 Jan 2016, 11:32, edited 2 times in total.

Post #48 made 10 years ago
by Mad_Scientist
Thanks for posting BDP. It looks the same color as mine. This recipe makes a good beer! :drink:

This beer is available here in the southeast US, but it's expensive as it gets hauled from the west coast 3,000 miles away.

BELOW
This is my soon to be Dead Guy in no-chill container.
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IMG_20151107_141028966 by Mad Scientist Brewhaus, on Flickr
Last edited by Mad_Scientist on 15 Jan 2016, 07:45, edited 5 times in total.
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Post #49 made 10 years ago
by Mad_Scientist
I transferred my Dead Guy yesterday during holiday. My hydrometer is calibrated at 60°F, hydro in 57°F bottled water jug and hydro in 65°F wort.

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IMG_20160118_153230.jpg by Mad Scientist Brewhaus, on Flickr

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IMG_20160118_153501.jpg by Mad Scientist Brewhaus, on Flickr

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IMG_20160118_152044.jpg by Mad Scientist Brewhaus, on Flickr

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IMG_20160118_153813.jpg by Mad Scientist Brewhaus, on Flickr

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IMG_20160118_154349.jpg by Mad Scientist Brewhaus, on Flickr

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IMG_20160118_155137.jpg by Mad Scientist Brewhaus, on Flickr

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IMG_20160119_142430.jpg by Mad Scientist Brewhaus, on Flickr

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IMG_20160119_092926421 by Mad Scientist Brewhaus, on Flickr

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IMG_20160118_155408.jpg by Mad Scientist Brewhaus, on Flickr
Last edited by Mad_Scientist on 20 Jan 2016, 07:38, edited 3 times in total.
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Post #50 made 10 years ago
by Mad_Scientist
On my 10/08/2015 brew, used my refractometer, I got a 15.4 Brix OG.

[UPDATE: Using my 'short range' hydrometer on 02-13-2016, my FG measured a 4.33 °P.

My best guess for the OG is 1.061/5 and 1.016/9 FG, apparent attenuation at 70.8%
Last edited by Mad_Scientist on 24 Jan 2016, 01:49, edited 12 times in total.
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