First BIAB - confused on Strike Water/Mash volume

Post #1 made 11 years ago
So I'm trying to make the all grain version of the Sierra Nevada Pale Ale clone from
"200 Clones..."
as shown in the attached images. Grain/hop bill from the recipe is shown in the BIABacus attached file
ImageUploadedByHome Brew1392263508.925162.jpg
2-14-2014 11-36-44 AM.jpg
I loaded all info into BIABacus and it is telling me my kettle is too small.
I've done some basic calculations and determine that I can start with about 6.5-7 gal of strike water, fit the grains/mash, and assuming I squeeze the bag, have enough pre-boil to get to 5 gals in the fermenter.

What am I missing?



thanks,
Mark
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Last edited by mjc999 on 15 Feb 2014, 00:39, edited 1 time in total.

Post #2 made 11 years ago
mjc999 wrote:What am I missing?
Mark, there's a heap of things missing and a lot of things wrong with the original recipe. For example, the original recipe, according to your picture above says,
"Add 5.8 HBU (29% less than the extract recipe) of the bittering hops for 90 minutes of the boil"
I can't even begin to explain how wrong that is.

Mark, there is nothing more to do now except for you to search the site for all posts that contain the word, "integrity".

Please let us know which posts you find that help you most,
PP
Last edited by PistolPatch on 15 Feb 2014, 02:09, edited 1 time in total.
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First BIAB - confused on Strike Water/Mash volume

Post #3 made 11 years ago
PP,
Well that's depressing. I have read so much here and on other boards, played with 4 different online calculators and everyone gives a different response with the same set of inputs.
While I can see the utility in BIABacus, as a first time BIAB brewer, it is a bit overwhelming.
If you input the recipe shown (into other calculators that output ABUs and SRM) with the full amount of bittering hops called for in the extract version of the recipe, the ABUs are much too high. If you use the roughly 70% of those hops (as suggested in the all grain variant above) you get back to the ABUs expected in the recipe. Maybe the extract version is wrong?
In any event, my primary question is about mash volume. If I have 11.25lbs of grain and assume 2.25qt/lb I get about 25 qts or 6.3 gallons of water. That plus my grains should fit in my 8 gal kettle. Assuming little loss if I squeeze, my pre-boil should be at around 6. I can add water to bring that to 6.5 and boil for the instructed amount of time/hop additions.

I'll figure it out as best I can and let you know how it worked.

cheers,
Mark





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Post #4 made 11 years ago
Hi Mark

Recipe issues aside when Biabing you should aim to get as much water into your mash as possible. So if 6.3gal plus grain doesn't exceed your kettle limits get it all in there. The Biabacus will give you a warning when approaching your kettle limits. If your mash volume won't fit in your kettle just hold the required amount of water back until it does and add this water back as soon as possible ( usually after removing the grain unless its a monster brew or you are maxi-biabing )

:luck:

Yeasty
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Post #5 made 11 years ago
Mark, it's 3am here now so forgive me if I write quickly...

1. BIABacus will be overwhelming especially if you have used other software.
2. Other software spreads information over several pages so you can't see the interaction between brewing factors.
3. No other software 'knows' that one factor affects another. (That's why the main numbers of the BIABAcus are on one page and that is also why you find it a bit daunting at first.)

Your problem though isn't a BIABacus one. It all boils down to slowing down and really understanding stuff. I asked in the post above for you to search here for posts that included the word "integrity" but you brushed over that. But, that is what you should do.

You shouldn't...
figure it out as best I can and let you know how it worked.
Why do that? What on earth will you be able to teach me or anyone else? I already know the answer. I don't mean to sound arrogant but I have spent a lot of time over many years trying to save people like you a lot of time and trouble in this area.

You wrote above, "played with 4 different online calculators and everyone gives a different response with the same set of inputs". Well, that for a start, should be a warning sign. BIABrewer.info is the source of all BIAB default numbers. When it comes to numbers, a few of us know them back to front here and it is the only place you will find that knowledge.

I'm probably one of the few (Yeasty knows heaps as well), who knows all the numbers so if you find a number problem you want to throw at me, I'll answer it for sure but not unless you have spent a few hours here reading up on recipe integrity.

Above I said, read posts on 'integrity'. Mark, it's what you have to do. There is currently no quick answer on this.

:dunno:
PP

P.S. I hope the above post helped a few others besides Mark (did it even help you Mark?) because it took well over an hour to write :smoke:.
Last edited by PistolPatch on 15 Feb 2014, 03:38, edited 1 time in total.
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First BIAB - confused on Strike Water/Mash volume

Post #6 made 11 years ago
PP,
First, I hope you've made it to bed by now. 3AM is no time to be responding to a noob. Second, I was and am between appointments as I write, hence the brevity. I do appreciate yourcomments. In response, I have spent many, many hours reading everything I can to learn about BIAB from process, equipment, recipe conversion, etc. I have read about recipe integrity, but am not at a point where I can judge that and, I did the search you suggest both here and on the HBT forum. Don't know if it is the iPad app, but neither produced any hits. I'll go google next. As far as the recipe I presented, while it isn't mine, it did seem to have the right ratios of grains/hops/etc. for an American Pale. My "i'll figure it out" comment was a sincere one. I consider myself reasonably smart and posted here due to seemingly conflicting information on the same topic. As you suggest, I'll focus my "figure it out" on recipe integrity. I'm not afraid to experiment and with the apparent ease of BIAB, a less than stellar result (or even disastrous one) gives a reason to quickly brew another batch without losing too much in time/effort.

Thanks again for taking the time to provide a fulsome response.

best,
Mark


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Post #7 made 11 years ago
Hey Mark, sorry for my crappy post above :roll:. Thanks for your tolerance - much appreciated :peace:. Very occasionally, the abundance of low integrity recipes gets the better of me as they are so difficult to handle and explain.

In my day job, I am constantly dealing with fixing other people's most basic errors. It might be a plumber hooking up a cold pipe to a hot tap or not checking for leaks after installing something or dealing with appliances that have incredibly stupid designs or the shoddiest of parts. Low integrity recipes are very similiar. They are so unnecessary, cause so much trouble and confusion and cost so much time.

What I'll do is take a break for the moment and then come back to this thread with a fresh brain (and a sober one :)) and see if I can do a better job here. I've been trying to write a checklist for how to handle low integrity recipes for ages but it is really tricky. Maybe I'll crack it this time?

Thanks again Mark for putting up with my low quality post above.

;)
PP
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Post #8 made 11 years ago
What Yeasty said. Recipe is fine. Plenty of SN Pale Ale clone recipes out there. That one you posted is as good as any. But the recipe as it is will overflow your kettle as a 'pure' BIAB brew, done as per BIABacus. Cos BIAB wants all water in from the start. But like Yeasty said, if you need to hold some back then add it later you can. But you'll have to figure some stuff out yourself, like you said. It's this bit that confuses me a bit (might have had too much to drink!) - 'If I have 11.25lbs of grain and assume 2.25qt/lb I get about 25 qts or 6.3 gallons of water.' You do have 11.5lb of grain as per your BIABacus file, so close enough there. But where did you get your ratio? BIABacus gets this stuff right, so you need 7.67 gallons of water, plus grain, which with grain absorption equals 8.86 gallons for your Mash Volume. More than your 8 Gallon kettle can hold. So you can't do a 'pure' BIAB brew for this recipe with your equipment. You could use BIABacus to scale the recipe down to suit your equipment and keep it 'pure' or add some water back, which also works. Either way you'll make beer, and a SN Pale Ale is a pretty damn nice beer!

EDIT: Maybe the Maxi-BIAB stuff in BIABacus does what you need to do? I've never used it, so I'm not sure. I'm lucky enough to have a nice big pot. Looks like maybe it could make the calcs easier though? Hopefully a Maxi-BIAB'er can chime in here....

First BIAB - confused on Strike Water/Mash volume

Post #9 made 11 years ago
PP,
No problem. I'm here to gather info, make good beer and have some fun. I don't take this too seriously and am just looking forward to getting educated to a point where I can make a consistently good batch of beer.

SimonT,
OK! Now you've hit on one of my biggest confusion points. That is, water/grain ratio. There are a wide range of suggestions out there and even more "you can BIAB 5 gallons in an 8 gallon pot" comments. I picked 2.25 as being closer to the high end of the ranges I've seen knowing that BIAB favors more water/thinner mash and at the same time fitting my kettle. You say the "BIABacus gets this stuff right". So, is the optimum number 2.67qts/lb?
I could have scaled the recipe, but I ordered my grains crushed (double) and mixed (and again based on my earlier calculations, didin't think I needed to scale). I guess if I could thoroughly mix the dry crushed grains, I could scale the recipe back to 4 gallons via BIABacus and be fine. I'm still tempted to just max fill and add water after.

Thank you both very much for responding. I feel myself moving up the learning curve already!

best,
Mark


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Post #10 made 11 years ago
Hi Mark
Stick with the Biabacus, its an awesome tool and your beers will be great. As you brew more and dial in your figures you can tweak the defaults to nail it closer to your equipment.

As to recipe integrity, as a beginner to the Biabacus its better to start with a tried and tested recipe. This way any problems can easily be seen and sorted. With a lot of internet recipes there has to be guesses or assumptions made as all the required info is usually not available. You can still make good beer using these recipes but you have to factor in the lack of info so things might not turn out as expected. As you get better using the Biabacus this becomes less of a problem as experience starts to play its part and you have the confidence to answer your own doubts/worries.

I've attached your file with just one change. In section "W" I've added 5L to the water added before boil box. This brings you within limits for your kettle. Just add this water as soon as you can after pulling the bag. Depending on grain absorption and your squeezing ability you should be able to get 3-4L in before the boil and the rest during. Just watch for boil overs as your kettle will be full. Keep a spray bottle of water to hand or a large metal spoon that you can throw in if it starts to get lively.

:luck:

Yeasty
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First BIAB - confused on Strike Water/Mash volume

Post #11 made 11 years ago
Yeasty,
Thank you! This is very helpful. I'll stick with BIABacus in the future. And thank you for looking at my file making the proper adjustments. Good advice on recipe sourcing. I put too much trust in the printed page. And I'm a huge fan of Sierra Nevada when I don't want an IPA, so I thought I'd give that one a try.
Next up will be either a straight IPA (I like Lagunitas and Harpoon) or a White IPA. Just had Harpoon's Long Thaw at their brewery and liked it very much.

thanks again,
Mark


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Post #12 made 11 years ago
I thought that Maxi-BIAB section was exactly what mjc999 needed to play with, pretty damn obvious how it works the next morning with no alcohol blurring the vision too!

mjc999 - WIth BIABacus, you don't need to know what the 'optimum' ratio is - it will just tell you the amounts of water you need to use. In your case though you do need to hold some back to cater for your kettle size. Easy enough though to put a number into the 'Water Added Before the Boil' section until Mash Volume gets comfortably lower than your Kettle Capacity.

Water and Grain ratio comes into play if you're not BIAB'ing, and using different sparge techniques, but with BIAB, you just want all the grain in with all the water, and the ratio will vary widely depending on your grain bill. ie. a high-OG RIS will have a much thicker mash than a light Lager. Which is where BIABacus makes calculating Kettle Efficiency and hence the grain bill based on your water volumes very easy - it does it for you!

Post #13 made 11 years ago
SimonT,
Got it, I now have a better understanding of how BIABacus works. If I don't want to mess with hold back water, well, then I better adjust the size of my recipe. I still don't understand what section L is doing...but will worry about that later.

thanks,
Mark

Post #14 made 11 years ago
Section L is just where you put your actual measurements from brew day, to compare to the BIABacus estimates, to dial-in your equipment. It helps calculate variables like your Evaporation from the boil, Trub loss etc, which can vary brew to brew depending on equipment, weather, technique etc.

High Integrity Recipe Formula

Post #15 made 11 years ago
Mark, it looks like Yeasty and Simon have you sorted - good on 'em :drink:,

There's a lot you and others have to battle with when starting out and some things you wrote above really highlight this. You have had to battle with...

1. Inconsistent answers from software.
2. Ambiguous terminology on other boards and in other software.
3. Inconsistent answers on other boards.
4. Faulty Recipes (even though written in a book!)
5. An initially scary looking spreadsheet.

This site is the only place you will find that recognises what a major problem the above is and that is working hard on trying to make things consistent, easy and logical for everyone. The hardest thing to get your head around is that 1 to 4 above actually exist in the first place. Obviously when the poor new brewer comes across 1 to 4 above, they naturally assume that they are just getting something wrong or missing something that must be obvious to everyone else

They aren't.

Let's look at the points above...

1. Inconsistent answers from software.

This is where, I think, most problems originated. In the early days, some commercial software came out that had some major errors in their formulas. For example, one major error that went on for many years in the most popular program was that bitterness and colour calculations were based on the 'Volume into Fermentor (VIF)' instead of the VIF plus kettle trub or what we call, 'Kettle to Fermentor Loss (KFL)'.What this meant was that the program would tell Brewer A who say had a VIF of 5 gallons and a KFL of 2 gallons per batch that they would end up with exactly the same colour and bitterness as Brewer 2 with a VIF of 5 gallons and only 1/2 gallon of KFL. It's not hard to see though that Brewer 1 would need a lot more hops to achieve the same bitterness levels.

Just coming to grips with the above major errors took a long time because the way that commercial software was designed combined with its lack of transparency makes the above error very hard to even notice.

If this error had been fixed when first pointed out, things would be a lot different these days. Like an unexamined weld in a water pipe in a wall, if you cover it with render and a cupboard, you won't notice how major the damage is until half your house is ruined.

The above errors were not examined and so those who realised that there was a problem, started to use the software in a different way from what was intended but in a way that would give them the right answers. For example, Brewer A above would call their "batch size" 7 gallons while Brewer B would call theirs 5.5 gallons and both would set their kettle trub to zero. For their "brewhouse efficiency" they would put in their 'kettle efficiency' while the poor new users would be typing in their 'fermentor efficiency'. This gave them the correct bitterness and colour calculations.

The above was the major cause of the problems we have today but we have found many other errors. For example, you can put exactly the same recipe into different programs and get different answers for the "Tinseth" IBU's. All software though should give an identical answer.

2. Ambiguous terminology on other boards and in other software.

This basically stems form the above. One person's understanding of batch size or brewhouse efficiency, even if they use the same program could mean two entirely different things.

One of the first, longest and hardest jobs taken on by this board was coming up with new unambiguous, fast to learn, terminology such as VIF and KFL.

3. Inconsistent answers on other boards.

A lot of this also stems from 1 above nut not all. On most boards, you'll notice an abundance of answers that may only be one or two sentences long. This creates a culture of fast answers. There have been recent studies done on just how bad fast answers can often be. They should come and do some study on brewing forums!

For example Mark, you were told about Liquor to Grain ratios on other forums but as Simon mentioned, these are irrelevant in BIAB. I remember when I started out (before BIAB) and would read stuff giving contradictory advice on sparging. It wasn't until much later, I could see that one person was a batch-sparger while the other was a fly-sparger. Did they mention that critical info in their posts? No.

Obviously I don't like saying it but most info you find on other boards is very ambiguous and often just wrong. (I've written a post on this here.)

4. Faulty Recipes (even though written in a book!)

Most recipes on the net are dodgy at best. Read this. That is hard enough to accept but when you find errors in books, it gets even harder to accept. For example, in the same thread as that post, look at post #8.

That post shows how exactly the same recipe can give you three different IBU estimates :roll:. How many new brewers, let alone experienced ones would be expected to know or understand that?

So, we have books getting published that don't tell us what formula (or software) they have used to do their calculations. The problems go much worse though once again probably mainly due to one above but also a lack of education or maybe even just laziness? For example, many books fail to provide detailed volume figures or AA%'s of the hops they have used. Let alone the fact that in an all-gain version of a recipe, you should use more hops than in an extract version. (This was my main warning sign in post#1. I can now see why they wrote it that way but the instructions are still wrong - no time to deal with that one in this post though).

5. An initially scary looking spreadsheet.

The BIABacus will look scary at first but just slow down, relax and have a beer and understand each section one by one. We could have made it look easy by doing what other programs do and spreading the information over many sheets. While that makes things easy to begin with, it makes things impossible down the track. From memory, all you need to understand when starting out are Sections B, C, D and K. That's it!!!

And, look out for red warnings.

(I stuffed this thread up initially because I didn't focus on the basics :roll:).

[center]What is Needed in a High Integrity Recipe?[/center]

The BIABacus Recipe Report gives all the critical information needed for anyone else using any other software to duplicate the recipe. The less information below provided in a software, book or forum post recipe report the lower the integrity of the recipe.

Volumes

Be Wary: When you see 'batch size'. It is a term used in most software but as seen above, it can mean anything these days.

What we Want: We want the equivalent of VIF plus KFL. What this equals is the amount of wort you would find in your kettle at the end of the boil once it was chilled to ambient temperatures. That is the most critical volume figure in a recipe and the hardest (often impossible) to find in other reports. We used to call it 'End of Boil Volume - Ambient (EOBV-A) but in the final BIABacus, we will be calling it 'Volume of Ambient Wort (VAW)'.

Gravity

Be Wary: No Original Gravity figure. Wtf? As linked above, recipes do exist even without this most basic of numbers.

What we Want: Original Gravity is the only gravity figure we really need but the more gravity figures, like any other numbers, as long as they are clearly defined, the better.

Grains

The Minimum: The percentages of the malts used are the minimum numbers we need.

What we Want: Weights are better as from these we can derive percentages anyway. An individual EBC or SRM colour value for each grain is best as well as a colour estimate for the batch.

Efficiency

Be Wary: If the recipe is just published with the word 'efficiency,' depending on other information given, it may be impossible to tell whether that number is a kettle or fermentor efficiency. If you cannot determine what type of efficiency the number means, it is meaningless. Be wary of recipe reports that say 70% or, more commonly, 75% efficiency as these numbers are often recommended by software providers as a "cover my arse," and subsequently handed on, unwittingly by users.

What we Want: A 'kettle efficiency' figure is what we need as a fermentor efficiency is totally meaningless unless we also know KFL. Kettle efficiency can be measured any time during the boil. The BIABacus allows you to determine kettle efficiency by either measuring the volume and gravity of the sweet liquor at the beginning of the boil or the volume and gravity of the cooled wort at the end of the boil. These will be known in the final BIABacus as 'Efficiency into Boil (EIB)' and Efficiency of Ambient Wort (EAW)'.

Hop Weights and AA%

Be Wary: If a recipe just gives hop weights, it is of very low integrity. Hops vary from year to year. Some years a hop variety can be very potent and the next year it might be extremely weak. If you just tell me to use 1 oz of hops, my beer could be 40% more or less potent, hop-wise, than yours.

What we Want: We want weights, AA%, the time the hop was added, how the batch was chilled and the VAW. WIthout the VAW we have to rely on...

IBU's

Be Wary: If a recipe you are copying just says 30 IBU's, it is quite meaningless.

What we Want: We need to know if the IBU's referred to were actuals measured in a laboratory or whether they were estimates calculated by a formula. Just go back to the first line of the first picture in this post again and you will see how meaningless an IBU number without definition is. We need to know laboratory, Garetz, Rager or Tinseth. In all-grain we want laboratory or Tinseth.

Finishing Up

Mark, I am still worried that in all the above I think there are a few things that we haven't cleared up for you still.

Can you let us know what they are?

:peace:
PP

P.S. We could probably get that "200 clone recipes" book of yours working for you (and all of us as well). What's the actual name of the book?
Last edited by PistolPatch on 16 Feb 2014, 22:11, edited 2 times in total.
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First BIAB - confused on Strike Water/Mash volume

Post #16 made 11 years ago
^^^
THAT, was phenomenal. In one post, you have cleared the path for me. I understand now what is important and where the pitfalls lie. What I like so much about brewing (and until now have only been an extract brewer) is the dichotomy of the complexity of the underlying product (recipes, etc.) and the simplicity of the actual process (BIAB). Very cool. I'll spend some more time playing with BIABacus and watch how input changes effect the output values. That is very instructive for me. I'll also be more vigilant in recipe selection. Once I have a few stove-top batches under my belt, I'll be back here pestering you guys about equipment (i.e. the e-biab system I want to build). AND, while I'll probably still read other sources, I'll be sure to vet any decisions here.

PP, thank you again for taking the time to draft such a detailed message. You've really hit on everything that was getting in my way.

The book I've been looking at for recipes is "Clonebews, 2nd Edition: Recipes for 200 Commercial Beers", by Tess and Mark Szamatulski

best,
Mark


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Post #17 made 11 years ago
Thanks heaps Mark :salute:. That one took about four hours (and lots of light beer) to write :P. (Every post like that though brings us closer to writing something that might be useful for more people*.)

And, the subject is pretty close to my heart. I think you, like me and many others, work best if we understand the underlying logic of things. When there is no logic, we get left with bewilderment. Hopefully the above provided a bit of the logic as to why there is such a lack of logic today in the recipe and software area :smoke:.

Trout has started a thread that is hunting and gathering high integrity recipes. Keep your eye on that. And, if your recipe turns out well, please add it to that thread. Also, before you brew, use this thread to check any recipe you are copying form another source.

The 200 clones recipe book is available on Kindle for $10 so I'll get that and report back. (I'll click on the Amazon thing at the top of the site first though!)

Cheers,
PP

* If the post above that made sense to Mark also clicked with you then please bookmark it and pass it on until the new site structure is in place.
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Post #18 made 11 years ago
Post #15 is a thing of beauty and needs to be made into a sticky and put somewhere where it can be seen more easily. It would be a waste to leave it buried in this thread.

Well done PP, that must have taken an age to write !! Unless you have a hot secretary who does it all for you ??

:champ:

Yeasty
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Post #19 made 11 years ago
I agree whole heartedly Yeasty.
There are so many darn recipes on the internet that I would like to try.
After reading #15 a couple of times it really got me to go back and look at some of them again.
And then say no :argh:
The post needs to be somewhere that new Brewers such as myself would have very easy access to it.
I think it would save people a lot of time asking the same questions over and over again.
And save the Old hands from having to answer them over and over again :salute:
V/r
Mike

First BIAB - confused on Strike Water/Mash volume

Post #20 made 11 years ago
So I did it. I brewed this recipe this morning.
Took longer than expected only because my 15k btu gas stove top took awhile to heat the mash water and then again to bring the full volume to boil.

In any event, it went (mostly) great. I heated 27 qts of water to 161 ( turns out that was a little high) and added the bag and 11.25 lbs. of grain ( I didn't hold any water back after all). The temp rose another 2 degrees even while the burner was off. Also, the temp of the mash barely dropped after adding the grains. Added about half gallon of cold water and presto. My kettle was filled to within an inch of the top with the mash. The temp then started to drift down about 30 mins in so I added a little heat while stirring, removed from burner and wrapped in a blanket. Temp held, although the scolding I got for using the blanket that way...
i didnt mash out, but simply pulled the bag after 90 mins, let is drain in a colander over the pot and gave it a bit of a squeeze. I ended up with a hair over 6.5 gals of sweet wort (i know cuz i tasted it). Gravity was 1.058. I was a little worried that after the boil the gravity would be too high, but hey, i have plenty of water handy. Boiled for a total of 60 mins (instead of 90) and ended up with 5.25 gals into the fermenter at 1.062 (didn't add any water).
As that is pretty darn close to the recipe, I let it be. I had made a quick starter with Wyeast 1056 (using some of my wort while the main batch cooled) and she is now happily bubbling away.

Smelled and tasted good throughout.

We'll see in a few weeks!

Fun stuff.

I'll be a little more scientific next time.

Thanks for all the help.

Mark



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Post #21 made 11 years ago
I am Jealous mjc. I can not wait to get home and do one.
It sounds like all went pretty well minus a bit of spike in temp. I will need to remember that the temp will go up after F/O.
I am sure I will be scolded also for stealing things out of the linen closet to both make bags and wrap around my kettle for insulation also. :shoot:
Good for you and congratulations :clap:

Post #22 made 11 years ago
mjc, Yeasty and Okie, thanks for pointing out PP's post above. A great place to report posts that you think are worth marking in some way is to link them in this thread called, Some great work I noticed! If we can find a spot to put them immediately, we'll do so, otherwise we may have to leave them to be stickied in a more appropriate section in the new site structure. IF they are put into the great work thread, this will ensure they don't get lost.

Thanks again and well done on your first BIAB mjc :clap:.
Last edited by Pat on 23 Feb 2014, 13:40, edited 1 time in total.
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Post #23 made 11 years ago
OkieSeaPig wrote:I am sure I will be scolded also for stealing things out of the linen closet to both make bags and wrap around my kettle for insulation also. :shoot:
:lol:.

Mark, good on you :thumbs:. Looks like everything went well and I hope you didn't get in too much trouble for the blanket - hahaha.

Only thing I can think to mention on this first brew is that if you have a heavy kettle set-up, it often will tend to rise in temp even after the burner is off. On your next brew, consider using a Strike Water Temp Adjustment Factor of 0.1 in Section X. This will lower the strike temp needed in Section E.

Nice job :champ:

(And thanks to you, Yeasty and Okie for the nice words above. As Pat hinted in the post above, I think sometimes the hard thing is to work out what to call a post and then where to put the bloody thing. I might have a beer later and see if I can help find a logical spot for that and a few others today.)
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Post #24 made 11 years ago
Pat wrote:mjc, Yeasty and Okie, thanks for pointing out PP's post above. A great place to report posts that you think are worth marking in some way is to link them in this thread called, Some great work I noticed!
Done :thumbs:
Last edited by Yeasty on 24 Feb 2014, 03:28, edited 1 time in total.
Why is everyone talking about "Cheese"
    • SVA Brewer With Over 50 Brews From Great Britain

First BIAB - confused on Strike Water/Mash volume

Post #25 made 11 years ago
Finally bottled/kegged this yesterday.
I had done two weeks in the primary and then racked to a secondary to dry hop. Holy cow was there a lot of trub/yeast in the bottom of the primary. Lost at least a gallon in the transfer. Dry hopped for two weeks (unintentionally as I planned on only one week). Lost another liter or so to sediment at bottling and ended with just over 4 gallons of drinkable beer.

It is quite cloudy, but after force carbonating a liter of it using the "carbonater" and giving it a taste, I can say without hesitation that it came out fantastic and is the best tasting beer I have made. It does not have that signature "homebrew" flavor I always seemed to get with extract brewing. Just tastes like great beer. In fact, because it is fresher than the Sierra Nevada we get on the east cost (i've had it both in MA and in CA and there is a dramatic difference), the flavors are more pronounced.

All in all, a great outcome. Next challenge will be to adjust volumes to make up for the losses and to figure out the best way to clear the beer. (I don't have a means of cold crashing).

Next up will be a Centennial Blonde that I will post in the appropriate thread in the appropriate manner to see if it has integrity.

CHEERS!
Mark

mjc999 wrote:So I did it. I brewed this recipe this morning.
Took longer than expected only because my 15k btu gas stove top took awhile to heat the mash water and then again to bring the full volume to boil.

In any event, it went (mostly) great. I heated 27 qts of water to 161 ( turns out that was a little high) and added the bag and 11.25 lbs. of grain ( I didn't hold any water back after all). The temp rose another 2 degrees even while the burner was off. Also, the temp of the mash barely dropped after adding the grains. Added about half gallon of cold water and presto. My kettle was filled to within an inch of the top with the mash. The temp then started to drift down about 30 mins in so I added a little heat while stirring, removed from burner and wrapped in a blanket. Temp held, although the scolding I got for using the blanket that way...
i didnt mash out, but simply pulled the bag after 90 mins, let is drain in a colander over the pot and gave it a bit of a squeeze. I ended up with a hair over 6.5 gals of sweet wort (i know cuz i tasted it). Gravity was 1.058. I was a little worried that after the boil the gravity would be too high, but hey, i have plenty of water handy. Boiled for a total of 60 mins (instead of 90) and ended up with 5.25 gals into the fermenter at 1.062 (didn't add any water).
As that is pretty darn close to the recipe, I let it be. I had made a quick starter with Wyeast 1056 (using some of my wort while the main batch cooled) and she is now happily bubbling away.

Smelled and tasted good throughout.

We'll see in a few weeks!

Fun stuff.

I'll be a little more scientific next time.

Thanks for all the help.

Mark



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Last edited by mjc999 on 24 Mar 2014, 18:39, edited 1 time in total.
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