I'm new to BIAB, but have brewed and enjoyed a number of extract concoctions of my own for the last few months. I'd really value your thoughts on this:-
10 Litre brew/boil:
2kg pale wheat malt
150g chocolate wheat malt
150g Caramunch
120g Pale Belgian malt
500g aromatic malt
Saaz hops – 30g for 60 mins
Liberty & Saaz hops – 15g each for last 15 mins
Liberty hops – 20g last 5 mins
Yeast: Fermentis Safale S-04
Any thoughts, advice, suggestions or amendments are more than welcome. You can't offend me as I'm a complete BIAB virgin.
Cheers,
G
Post #2 made 13 years ago
Good Day Gyro, the recipe looks good.
What is the mash Temperature you looking at....144f/63C for a lite body, good malt flavor, or 156F/69C for a full body, strong malt beer, or something in between.
Are going to try a 90 minute mash or stay at 60 minutes.
The Calculater...http://www.biabrewer.info/viewtopic.php?f=25&t=189 is a good program/spreadsheet for making the recipe/brew plan!
Good Luck!
What is the mash Temperature you looking at....144f/63C for a lite body, good malt flavor, or 156F/69C for a full body, strong malt beer, or something in between.
Are going to try a 90 minute mash or stay at 60 minutes.
The Calculater...http://www.biabrewer.info/viewtopic.php?f=25&t=189 is a good program/spreadsheet for making the recipe/brew plan!
Good Luck!
Honest Officer, I swear to Drunk, I am Not God.
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- SVA Brewer With Over 100 Brews From United States of America
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Post #3 made 13 years ago
Re: the temperature, mate, I'm not sure. I'd probably go for the latter 156F, to be honest. What's the benefit of a longer mash ... ?
Post #4 made 13 years ago
Good Day Gyro, the 60minute mash will almost convert all starch, some starch is a very long Molicle (100-200 sugar molicles) and take at least an hour to Break down.
A 75 minute mash is the mininum time to ensure all starch is converted.
PistolPatch likes the 90 minute mash to help break down LONG Sugars to smaller, more fermentable sugars. He must not like "sweet" beers!
The BullPoop of "Iodine testing" just show a enough sugars have broken off the starch molicles to not change Iodine, but not fully coverted.
Just my understation of mashing!~
A 75 minute mash is the mininum time to ensure all starch is converted.
PistolPatch likes the 90 minute mash to help break down LONG Sugars to smaller, more fermentable sugars. He must not like "sweet" beers!
The BullPoop of "Iodine testing" just show a enough sugars have broken off the starch molicles to not change Iodine, but not fully coverted.
Just my understation of mashing!~
Honest Officer, I swear to Drunk, I am Not God.
-
- SVA Brewer With Over 100 Brews From United States of America
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Post #5 made 13 years ago
Gyro I would also recommend shooting at a 66-67C mash temp.That will give you a little buffer if things get out of hand.
AWOL
Post #6 made 13 years ago
Cool. So I need to keep temp at 66-67c for 75-90 mins for the best results then?
Does everybody do the Iodine test ?
Cheers,
G
Does everybody do the Iodine test ?
Cheers,
G
Post #7 made 13 years ago
ps. What about cooling the wort down?
Is a lid on in a cold bath approach for about 30-45 mins acceptable? I'm looking at coiling a syphon tube through a bucket or something that I'll fill with cold/iced water to transfer the wort into the FV. Providing the gradient of the tube isn't too steep, you reckon that'll cool it down quicker than leaving it in the pot..?
Is a lid on in a cold bath approach for about 30-45 mins acceptable? I'm looking at coiling a syphon tube through a bucket or something that I'll fill with cold/iced water to transfer the wort into the FV. Providing the gradient of the tube isn't too steep, you reckon that'll cool it down quicker than leaving it in the pot..?
Post #8 made 13 years ago
Good Day Gyro. I used to do Iodine tests and thought it was complete at 25 minutes, And made Crappy beer, that got dumped!!
Now a 75 to 90 minute mashg depending how the mash looks, until like syrup.
Now a 75 to 90 minute mashg depending how the mash looks, until like syrup.
Honest Officer, I swear to Drunk, I am Not God.
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- SVA Brewer With Over 100 Brews From United States of America
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Post #9 made 13 years ago
Good Day Gyro, cooling in a tub of water is ok.
Many spend a bunch of money on a Immersion Chiller((IC), a long coil of tubing).
What your thinking of, is someting like a counter-flow-chillier (CFC).
I found No-CHill on this site and now do Slow-Chill.
I put the lid on the kettle and a fine towel over the top. I have a #10 hole in the lid for a stopper and a S-type air lock. This prevents the vacuum from crushing my Kettle.
I let it cool overnight, (sometimes 2 days), And if it is warm 90F/32C I use a tub of water and some ice.
After it gets to pitching tempaerature I pour the wort thru a fine strainer to aireate it and pitch the yeast.
I save the crap in the strainer and recover about .75L of wort to use as a starter next time.
Many spend a bunch of money on a Immersion Chiller((IC), a long coil of tubing).
What your thinking of, is someting like a counter-flow-chillier (CFC).
I found No-CHill on this site and now do Slow-Chill.
I put the lid on the kettle and a fine towel over the top. I have a #10 hole in the lid for a stopper and a S-type air lock. This prevents the vacuum from crushing my Kettle.
I let it cool overnight, (sometimes 2 days), And if it is warm 90F/32C I use a tub of water and some ice.
After it gets to pitching tempaerature I pour the wort thru a fine strainer to aireate it and pitch the yeast.
I save the crap in the strainer and recover about .75L of wort to use as a starter next time.
Honest Officer, I swear to Drunk, I am Not God.
-
- SVA Brewer With Over 100 Brews From United States of America
-
Post #10 made 13 years ago
joshua wrote:PistolPatch likes the 90 minute mash to help break down LONG Sugars to smaller, more fermentable sugars. He must not like "sweet" beers!
As joshua said above, the iodine test is a bit dodgy. The reason I mash for 90 minutes is that anytime I have bothered to measure the gravity at 15 minute intervals, I have seen a constant rise in gravity. Things start to flatten out after 75 - 90 minutes so 90 minutes for me is a sensible option.
Gyro, you have heaps of great questions here. For example, the chilling. Let's come back to that later [edit: I see josh has given one answer to that] and remind us if it doesn't get answered because....
The main thing I'd like to see is that you get your recipe scaled well before you brew. So I have a few questions for you...
1. The recipe in post number 1 doesn't have enough info for us to work with. We need things like an original gravity, end of boil volume and alpha acid percent of hops. So, my first question is what style of beer would you like to brew? Once we know this, we can either find a great recipe or build on what you have already supplied. Does your recipe come from a book or the net? Have you got a link?
2. Secondly, how wide is your pot and how deep is it? From this we can work out it's capacity and guess your evaporation rate. This will let us know the maximum amount of 'beer' we can get out of your pot.
That's probably enough questions for you to answer for now but we can make some real progress from your answers.
PP
Last edited by PistolPatch on 10 Apr 2012, 20:34, edited 3 times in total.
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Post #11 made 13 years ago
ps: you probably want to use half a packet of S04 yeast in a 10L batch
Fermenting: -
Cubed: -
Stirplate: -
On Tap: NS Summer Ale III (WY1272), Landlord III (WY1469), Fighter's 70/- II (WY1272), Roast Porter (WY1028), Cider, Soda
Next: Munich Helles III
5/7/12
Cubed: -
Stirplate: -
On Tap: NS Summer Ale III (WY1272), Landlord III (WY1469), Fighter's 70/- II (WY1272), Roast Porter (WY1028), Cider, Soda
Next: Munich Helles III
5/7/12
Post #12 made 13 years ago
Well, my enthusiasm got the better of me and I just went ahead and mashed it up last night. I got a bit scraed when I saw how big 2kgs of wheat malt looked like in the shop, so didn't include the Aromatic malt at all, and ended up increasing the Caramunch to 200g.
I started with 8 litres, but once the grain was in and swirling, I topped up with a further 2 litres and then kept it as close to 67c as I could for 90 minutes. Wrapped in a towel, the pot lost about 2 degrees max over 25-30 mins, so I just added a little heat on two occassions. When the 90 mins was done I took a reading and in 93ml of wort it was 1.058.
I then boiled up for just over an hour as per the schedule above, adding 150g of sugar and an extra 10 of Saaz after 40 mins. OG once cooled was 1.072.
I was surprised at how much less I had when I strained into my FV; it looks closer to 6 or 7 litres, but I'll only really know once I bottle.
Stux; I did only use half of my 11g sachet - pretty used to that on mini brews. The good news so far is that it's bubbling away nicely. The REAL good news will be in a few weeks when I can get an idea of what it tastes like ....
Cheers
I started with 8 litres, but once the grain was in and swirling, I topped up with a further 2 litres and then kept it as close to 67c as I could for 90 minutes. Wrapped in a towel, the pot lost about 2 degrees max over 25-30 mins, so I just added a little heat on two occassions. When the 90 mins was done I took a reading and in 93ml of wort it was 1.058.
I then boiled up for just over an hour as per the schedule above, adding 150g of sugar and an extra 10 of Saaz after 40 mins. OG once cooled was 1.072.
I was surprised at how much less I had when I strained into my FV; it looks closer to 6 or 7 litres, but I'll only really know once I bottle.
Stux; I did only use half of my 11g sachet - pretty used to that on mini brews. The good news so far is that it's bubbling away nicely. The REAL good news will be in a few weeks when I can get an idea of what it tastes like ....
Cheers
Last edited by Gyro on 11 Apr 2012, 16:54, edited 3 times in total.
Post #13 made 13 years ago
Good on you Gyro. Nothing like diving straight in 
.
Good luck and let us know how it goes
.
.Good luck and let us know how it goes
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Post #14 made 13 years ago
I haven't accurately measured what I'm fermenting, but is it usual to lose so much in volume (presumably due to the boil) ?
Post #15 made 13 years ago
One of the big variables is your evaporation loss. Good news is its a Fairly constant rate per hour, so you can improve calculations by working it out.
What OG were you aiming for? You could probably just add 3L to your fermenter and this would dilute your 1.072 to 1.050 or so
What OG were you aiming for? You could probably just add 3L to your fermenter and this would dilute your 1.072 to 1.050 or so
Fermenting: -
Cubed: -
Stirplate: -
On Tap: NS Summer Ale III (WY1272), Landlord III (WY1469), Fighter's 70/- II (WY1272), Roast Porter (WY1028), Cider, Soda
Next: Munich Helles III
5/7/12
Cubed: -
Stirplate: -
On Tap: NS Summer Ale III (WY1272), Landlord III (WY1469), Fighter's 70/- II (WY1272), Roast Porter (WY1028), Cider, Soda
Next: Munich Helles III
5/7/12
Post #16 made 13 years ago
Gyro,
did you only use the 10 liters of water that went into the mash?
if so, than you lost some to grain absorption and more to evaporation. that's where the Calculator comes in handy in telling you how much water to start with in order to end up with the expected volume and gravity.
did you only use the 10 liters of water that went into the mash?
if so, than you lost some to grain absorption and more to evaporation. that's where the Calculator comes in handy in telling you how much water to start with in order to end up with the expected volume and gravity.
Cube:
fermenter: Sourdough Spelt Ale, Classic Lambic, Oud Brune, Barrel Aged Belgian Dubbel
Kegs: Bob's Black IPA, Blanc Blond, Soda...
to be brewed:
fermenter: Sourdough Spelt Ale, Classic Lambic, Oud Brune, Barrel Aged Belgian Dubbel
Kegs: Bob's Black IPA, Blanc Blond, Soda...
to be brewed:
Post #17 made 13 years ago
To be fair, I wasn't aiming for a specific OG; I never normally do when I make extract brews. Everything I've read says to use only the boil wort (unlike extract), but it now does seem pretty obvious to me that the reason for this is you're diluting it, and therefore the logic of taking a gravity reading prior to the boil now makes sense. I think the OG of 1.072 was mainly down to the sugar I put it, adding water to the FV would have made sense. I think I may be getting quite a strong brew now, although less of it ... !
Also, I remember reading somewhere about leaving the last lite of the wort, but I scooped up most of mine when I filtered it into the FV. I have to say, i did look a little 'muddy'. Will this settle as it ferments, or will I end up with a cloudy brew?
Also, I remember reading somewhere about leaving the last lite of the wort, but I scooped up most of mine when I filtered it into the FV. I have to say, i did look a little 'muddy'. Will this settle as it ferments, or will I end up with a cloudy brew?
Post #19 made 13 years ago
Cool. So, based on only really being able to start with a maximum of 10 or so litres, to get that back in fermentable volume I'd need to use more malt/grain to get a higher OG from the wort pre-boil, and then top up with water in the FV ... ? Is it okay to use cold water (this would make the cool down quicker too) ?
Post #20 made 13 years ago
Good Day Gyro, do you have another pot about 6L ????, you can do a MINI-MAXI BIAB!!! Mash with 7-8L and Sparge with 3-4L in the other pot and end with 10-12L to boil! Look at the COMMENTARY http://www.biabrewer.info/viewtopic.php?f=25&t=190 for details and PICTURES!!!
Honest Officer, I swear to Drunk, I am Not God.
-
- SVA Brewer With Over 100 Brews From United States of America
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Post #21 made 13 years ago
That commentary is comprehensively helpful. Not quite sure how I missed it first time round, but it's confirmed I did most things right, and has given me a couple of pointers for the future..!
So, with regards to a Mini Maxi, sparging into another vessel big enough will extract as much as possible without diluting it too much, and adding this back to the boil vessel will pretty much be the same as if I originally mashed 12-14 litres ? Cool. Only problem is, I'm not sure I have anything bigger than 3-4 litres spare...
One thing I did do on my first attempt was to place a circular baking cooling rack inside the bottom of my FV and sit the mash bag on top of this. It acted like a grate, and helped the wort drain through a little without me having to standing there and hold it all the time.
Am loving my first forray into BIAB, by the way. Thinking of popping back to my store today to get differen malted grains to do another brew ....
Cheers,
G
So, with regards to a Mini Maxi, sparging into another vessel big enough will extract as much as possible without diluting it too much, and adding this back to the boil vessel will pretty much be the same as if I originally mashed 12-14 litres ? Cool. Only problem is, I'm not sure I have anything bigger than 3-4 litres spare...
One thing I did do on my first attempt was to place a circular baking cooling rack inside the bottom of my FV and sit the mash bag on top of this. It acted like a grate, and helped the wort drain through a little without me having to standing there and hold it all the time.
Am loving my first forray into BIAB, by the way. Thinking of popping back to my store today to get differen malted grains to do another brew ....
Cheers,
G
