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Post #2 made 11 years ago
by nosco
I was under the impression that you cant use copper. Wort has a bit of natural acid in it (I think?). If you boiled in a copper pot it would be very shiny and clean because all the patina (oxide? ) would end up in your beer after the wort cleaned it up. I might wrong but thats why everyone use ss or aluminium.
"Gentleman, when I first started Reynholm Industries, I had just two things in my possession: a simple dream, and six million pounds.
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Post #3 made 11 years ago
by Sabre
Wort chillers are copper and I would have thought before stainless and ally the only thing used would have been copper.will have to do more research Cheers Kapo

Post #4 made 11 years ago
by nosco
True I didnt think off that. I dont use a chiller.
"Gentleman, when I first started Reynholm Industries, I had just two things in my possession: a simple dream, and six million pounds.
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Post #5 made 11 years ago
by PistolPatch
Welcome to the forum Sabre :salute:,

A copper kettle is actually fine Nosco but I like your thinking and love it when members don't leave people waiting for an answer even if it triggers some sort of correction :salute:.

We used to use copper kettles at Matilda Bay Brewing Company. If anything the problems are cost and maintenance. In your case though, Sabre, I also have the following questions...

1. I would want to see the inside of your copper in advance. God knows if layers of salts etc haven't adhered themselves to the inside of your future copper.

2. Google on copper brewing kettles. Lots of good stuff there. As for anything on brewing, avoid forums as much as possible apart from this one. Post any good info you find back here.

3. There are lots easier ways for a home brewer to do '50 litres'. Assuming finished brew means 'Volume into Packaging (VIP)' (see Clear Brewing Terminology) I can actually do 4 x 19 litre kegs (76 litres VIP) in one session but also have the advantage where I get four different batches by using two seventy litre kettles and two post-boil variations. This is actually way too much for me but...

Before you read how I can brew way too much in a day, I want to see how you intend to fire/heat your kettle? Also, how are you going to pull the bag? Have you considered the heights and weight? After the boil, how are you going to transfer that amount of wort to fermentor/s? If one large fermentor, how do you lift that high enough for transfer into kegs or bottles?

These are the things to think about I reckon ;),
PP

* It is really important to think these things through, back to front so think on the questions I asked above. Read this thread to see why ;).
Last edited by PistolPatch on 29 Jun 2014, 22:55, edited 1 time in total.
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Post #6 made 11 years ago
by Sabre
Thank PP I was starting at the wrong end . I'm going to heat it with gas burner an old four ring and also buy an electric emersion heater to speed things up. As for lifting the bag I will setup, a pully or I already have a monkey on a beam in my shed that's good for a couple of tonne. Have a budget of about of $1500-2000 would like to buy ss fermenter if the cost in justified , chest freezer that will at least 4 kegs and another to ferment in . Have made a start on a mill will put up some photos soon. I have 6 x 19ltr and 2x23ltr kegs and would like to able to do 50ltr kegs in the future so if 70 ltr kettle is the go I will head that way. Have taps and regulators already and have an co2 extinguisher that I would like to use if possible for a bottle. Any advice on the best place to purchase these things including sanitising chemicals would be participated cheers Sabre

Post #7 made 11 years ago
by PistolPatch
I'm mulling your post above over atm Sabre and there is a lot to comment on so we better speed up our correspondence. If we wait a week before responding to each other we will get nowhere fast!

The first problem is with the 23 L kegs. The first thing you need to do is see if the welds are visible on the inside of the keg. If they are visible are they perfectly smooth? The inside of your kegs need to be perfectly smooth. (I bought 23 litre kegs and, being a newbie, it took me about three years to find out why they were a massive problem.)

KEGS THAT ARE NOT PEFECTLY SMOOTH ON THE INSIDE LIKE A CORNY KEG SHOULD NOT BE SOLD FOR BREWING.

So, let's start with that one but bear in mind there is a lot more.

:peace:
PP
Last edited by PistolPatch on 07 Jul 2014, 20:53, edited 1 time in total.
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