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Post #2 made 15 years ago
by shibolet
you don't waste so much water...
Cube:
fermenter: Sourdough Spelt Ale, Classic Lambic, Oud Brune, Barrel Aged Belgian Dubbel
Kegs: Bob's Black IPA, Blanc Blond, Soda...
to be brewed:

Post #3 made 15 years ago
by wizard78
shibolet wrote:you don't waste so much water...
Which I know is important here in the drout stricken parts of Australia. It would be interesting to know how the water supply is in other parts of the biab world.
Last edited by wizard78 on 18 May 2010, 14:40, edited 9 times in total.
[center]"All right, brain. You don't like me and I don't like you, but let's just do this and I can get back to killing you with beer."
[/center]
[center]Homer Simpson[/center]
[center]K.I.S.S., B.I.A.B.[/center]

Post #4 made 15 years ago
by shibolet
ISRAEL: no water to spare.
i know i no-chill.
Cube:
fermenter: Sourdough Spelt Ale, Classic Lambic, Oud Brune, Barrel Aged Belgian Dubbel
Kegs: Bob's Black IPA, Blanc Blond, Soda...
to be brewed:

Post #5 made 15 years ago
by jimmysuperlative
I started out no-chilling because I didn't have a wort chiller. It was a quick, cheap, easy way to store wort until I could pitch yeast.

...and it saves water!
Everybody's waitin' for the man with the bag ... K Starr (1950)

Post #6 made 15 years ago
by jmbingham
being in a drought makes sense , were in a dry spell here in florida but i dont know if i would call it a drought,but the no chill method would be responsible guess every little bit helps. I used a sink full of water and ice on the first brew , i was thinking of making a wort chiller and using a pump to move ice water thru the chiller but, that was before I knew that i could slow chill
thanks for the fast responses Jimmy

Post #7 made 15 years ago
by BobBrews
In Wisconsin USA we "Walk on water". Literally, I live in lake country. If you dig a hole you will find water. I don’t N/C to save water because I have to, It’s because I want to. I also do it because of the convenience of pitching when I want too, not when I have too.
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Last edited by BobBrews on 18 May 2010, 20:24, edited 9 times in total.
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tap 4 Triple IPA 11% ABV
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Post #8 made 15 years ago
by jmbingham
yea i think i will be no chilling, found a nice cube at the local walmart #2 hdpe for 10$ its a ten gallon is it too big to no chill 5 gallon brews ?
Bob just want to say thanks it was your little photo lesson were i was first introduced to biab and no chill
thanks again
jimmy

Post #9 made 15 years ago
by hashie
Jimmy, I use a 20 litre cube to chill a 23 litre batch. The cubes here, generally hold 3-4 litres above their rating.

I like to squeeze as much air out of the cube once I have the hot wort in there. Just to minimise the risk of infection from airborne contaminants.

So I would not use a 10 gallon cube for a 5 gallon batch, but that's just me.

Cheers

Gavin
"It's beer Jim, but not as we know it."

Post #11 made 15 years ago
by crundle
You can use a larger cube successfully, but you will need to pay extra attention to making sure that all of the inner surface of the cube gets a good amount of time covered in the near boiling wort, which is easier to do the more full the cube is.

cheers,

Matt

Post #13 made 15 years ago
by PistolPatch
Hey there Joshua,

You might be onto something I have missed but there should never be a need to chill your unfermented wort to 1 C. Unfermented wort needs to be chilled to, as a guideline, 18 C for ales and 10 C for lagers.

Once it is fermented, then we can start looking at temps of about 1 C.

Hope this helps though I might have misinterpreted your question,
PP
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Post #14 made 15 years ago
by jmbingham
using the no chill method now and love it :D Its nice to not have to worry about something else when you are trying to squeeze a brew day into a busy weekend.Thanks guys yall have been alot of help!

Post #15 made 15 years ago
by PistolPatch
Ah, I'm with you now Joshua ;).

You should get enough cold break from a normal chill down to 18. Taking it down to 1 or 2 C would be a very high energy cost for probably no advantage at all. In fact, it could be disadvantageous as it is a good thing to have some break material in your fermenting wort.

If you have a chill haze problem, the first thing to do is go for a 90 minute boil and make sure it is a good rolling boil. A simmer is a great way to get haze. Next check the pH of your water. Keep your mash at around 5.2. Some recipes and some grains are also more likely to give you haze. In these cases, consider using Irish Moss 15 minutes before the end of the boil. If haze persists, consider using Isinglass and/or Polyclar as well.

Good luck Joshua,
PP
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Post #16 made 15 years ago
by PistolPatch
No worries joshua. It is really annoying when your tap water is around that temperature and it happens where I live for half the year. Often I can only chill to around 28C. If I no-chill in the kettle (which I occasionally do, the temp is often still around 35 C the next morning. I have never found these two things to cause any haze though with my water etc.

When I can't easily chill to pitching temperature, I'll get as low as I easily can and then drain the kettle and then put the whole fermenter into the fridge where it is usually ready to pitch within about 12 hours.

No-chill certainly has a lot going for it and I probably should go and buy a few cubes :).
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