No-Chill Cube? Fermenter?

Post #1 made 14 years ago
Just another NOOB to BIAB. Lot's of Kits though behind me. I don't know if anyone has used these for a No-Chill Cube but they are HDPE but with a large mouth (ease of cleaning concern). I am currently awaiting a follow up email from the company to see if it can handle the temps (100C/220F) of boiling Wort being poored directly into them for overnight cooling. I would think it could handle it due to the fact HDPE is HDPE, I might add that it is thick walled also, very sturdy. It's from a company called GAMMA and the product comes in many different shapes and sizes, they are called Vittles Vault. Please take a look and let me know what you think.

P.S. I am thinking about drilling out a hole for a Bung/Air Lock for Fermenting also.

www.gamma2.net/new/petproducts.html

Post #2 made 14 years ago
Dabeer,

I bought my N/C cubes? from US Plastic http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/item.a ... d=redirect I bought extra screw caps to fit them with a air lock. The idea was to use the No Chill containers as a extra fermenter. I still haven't done that! I rarely have more than 3 buckets fermenting at a time. I thought the the cleaning would be difficult but not hard to do infrequent as it would be done. Good luck with those containers they look interesting!
Last edited by BobBrews on 27 Jun 2011, 20:17, edited 5 times in total.
tap 1 Raspberry wine
tap 2 Bourbon Barrel Porter
tap 3 Czech Pilsner
tap 4 Triple IPA 11% ABV

Pipeline: Mulled Cider 10% ABV

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Post #3 made 14 years ago
Thanks for the input. I did check and they are HDPE and also food grade (Originally created for storing dog food). But I saw one guy's video where he was using them for fermenting. With the screw on cap, rubber seal, 13 gallon capacity and all, I thought this would be great for fermenting 10 gallon batches with approx. 3 gallons of head space to help prevent blow off's. (It's happened to me, and it ain't pretty. The Mrs. was even less impressed). I have only done kit's (Brewers Best) and am finally within 2 to 3 weeks of doing my first brew in a bag (All Grain). I purchased a keggle from "Adventures in Brewing" when they had a great sale on them, I just built a CFC 2 weekends ago and it works great. I have my bag (VOILE) back from the cleaners that did the sewing for me, so now all I have to do is buy my ingredients. I hope to do a 5 gallon batch (first BIAB) and then move into 10 gallon and then the Cube will get a work out. Because I now have the CFC (30' Copper 3/8" within a Hose) I don't need to worry about high heat (No-Chills) in the Cube, but it does appear to be able to withstand the temp if I ever do want to do a No-Chill. Thanks again Bob & Sigurdur. Keep on Brewing. :drink: :smoke: :drink:

Post #4 made 14 years ago
I've heard of people using the Vittles Vaults for storing bulk grain purchases too :)
Fermenting: -
Cubed: -
Stirplate: -
On Tap: NS Summer Ale III (WY1272), Landlord III (WY1469), Fighter's 70/- II (WY1272), Roast Porter (WY1028), Cider, Soda
Next: Munich Helles III

5/7/12

Post #5 made 14 years ago
That's true STUX. I completely forgot about that, but after you mentioned it, I do recall seeing some posts that they are also being used for storage of Grains. I wish I could afford that, they are about $40 US for the 13 gallon ones.

Post #6 made 13 years ago
Just wondering how the no-chill was working out for you folks brought this up at my local HBS and you would not balieve the looks I got, everyone was against it , opening your self up too a kinds of problems I was told I Believe it can work kinda of like hot filling canning jars. any feed back I would appreciate.

Post #7 made 13 years ago
TRENDMERE, no chill (or slow chill) Doesn't cause any problems or increase your risk of infection greater than any other method of brewing. So long as you adhere to good cleaning and sanitation.

I fill my cube, which in fact is a 20 litre jerry can, with hot wort siphoned from my kettle. A 20 litre jerry can will hold up to ~25 litres. I then prop it on one edge so the lid is uppermost and squeeze as much air out as possible, then put the lid on tight. The heat of the wort will pasteurise anything lurking in the cube, but it's best to make sure it's clean and sanitised first, just in case.

Using this method you can store your fresh wort until you are ready to ferment it, or you could do a double batch, ferment 1 the first week and put the second on the yeast cake of the first when it's finished and bottled/kegged.

Way more options chilling with this method.
Last edited by hashie on 02 Feb 2012, 12:58, edited 5 times in total.
"It's beer Jim, but not as we know it."

Post #8 made 13 years ago
TRENDMERE,
I totally agree with hashie. I have stored hot wort in my cube waiting for a yeast cake to become available. There is less chance with No Chill of having an infection that a immersion chiller. I had a leak in my IC that caused three batches to become infected. I finally noticed a connection that dripped well water into my wort. I store sanitizer in my cube and dump it into a bucket (for reuse) just before filling. I then squeeze out the air and lay it on it's side to let hot wort into the handle crevices.

I regularly brew two batches (to there one) at each club brew event with BIAB and N/C. I give demonstrations to all the 3V brewers but many remain skeptical. It's hard to admit your wrong. I have never had to do it, so I could be wrong?
tap 1 Raspberry wine
tap 2 Bourbon Barrel Porter
tap 3 Czech Pilsner
tap 4 Triple IPA 11% ABV

Pipeline: Mulled Cider 10% ABV

http://cheesestradamus.com/ Brewers challenge!
    • SVA Brewer With Over 100 Brews From United States of America

Post #9 made 13 years ago
First of all thanks guys for your prompt response, I am sold on this,. it all makes sense to me.Like I said it kinda of follows the principles of home canning ie. fill of above 180f to kill the bad stuff ,cooling causes the the container to seal. One more question is a little longer boil time required? Thanks Again for your most helpful response.

Post #10 made 13 years ago
Most of us here boil for 90 minutes as standard, if this is longer than your current regime, you may wish to consider a longer boil. However it is not necessary For no (slow) chill to be achieved.
"It's beer Jim, but not as we know it."

Post #11 made 13 years ago
i use the blue plastic barrels as fermenters. they're very good except that you can't see what's going on inside.
i tried using one for no-chill. it worked but i think that after a few uses the plastic would crack as it is quite thick.
Cube:
fermenter: Sourdough Spelt Ale, Classic Lambic, Oud Brune, Barrel Aged Belgian Dubbel
Kegs: Bob's Black IPA, Blanc Blond, Soda...
to be brewed:

Post #12 made 13 years ago
I no chill like hashie

I've recently fermented a beer I had in a cube (Jerry) for 9 months!

Was one of my most popular kegs!
Fermenting: -
Cubed: -
Stirplate: -
On Tap: NS Summer Ale III (WY1272), Landlord III (WY1469), Fighter's 70/- II (WY1272), Roast Porter (WY1028), Cider, Soda
Next: Munich Helles III

5/7/12

Post #13 made 13 years ago
stux wrote:I no chill like hashie

I've recently fermented a beer I had in a cube (Jerry) for 9 months!

Was one of my most popular kegs!
Raises an interesting question stux.

Does wort improve, after prolonged storage, prior to fermenting?

I've just started a thread here on this thought.
Last edited by hashie on 04 Feb 2012, 10:29, edited 5 times in total.
"It's beer Jim, but not as we know it."

Post #15 made 13 years ago
rockbotton wrote:What do you guys think about these as possible fermenters? Barrels
They look nearly identical to the winpaks linked in a post above. I have a couple of winpaks and they work great for no chill. You can drill a hole in the cap for an airlock (or use an 11.5 stopper) and use it as fermenter
Last edited by Cowgo on 03 Mar 2012, 13:51, edited 5 times in total.

Post #16 made 13 years ago
Cowgo wrote:
rockbotton wrote:What do you guys think about these as possible fermenters? Barrels
They look nearly identical to the winpaks linked in a post above. I have a couple of winpaks and they work great for no chill. You can drill a hole in the cap for an airlock (or use an 11.5 stopper) and use it as fermenter
I dont even bother with an airlock, someone turned me on to cling wrap (plastic wrap or saran wrap depending on where you live) Just put it over the hole and put an elastic band around it to secure. It means you can see into your jerry cans and it allows the CO2 to get out. It starts to bubble up a little bit on really active ferments, but never comes off
Last edited by Aces high on 04 Mar 2012, 08:03, edited 5 times in total.

Post #17 made 13 years ago
rockbotton wrote:What do you guys think about these as possible fermenters? Barrels
rb, I'd do some research into polyethelens to make sure it is food-grade. If you want to use them as a no-chill cube and not just as a fermentor, you'll need to make sure it's food-safe at boiling point. Here's a few links that might get you heading in the right firection... here and here.

Maybe ring the supplier and see if they can email you a 'Safety Data Sheet?'

Cheers,
PP
Last edited by PistolPatch on 04 Mar 2012, 13:51, edited 5 times in total.
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Post #18 made 13 years ago
High Density Polyethylene, HDPE, is the standard material that fermenters are made from. It should just be a matter of confirming with the manufacturer that its food-grade, which I assume it would be.

The barrels would be used for transporting food products
Fermenting: -
Cubed: -
Stirplate: -
On Tap: NS Summer Ale III (WY1272), Landlord III (WY1469), Fighter's 70/- II (WY1272), Roast Porter (WY1028), Cider, Soda
Next: Munich Helles III

5/7/12

Post #19 made 13 years ago
Thanks guys.
I will check to see if they are food grade.
I hope they are because I can get a few of these for free.
Fermenting:

Bottle Conditioning

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Post #20 made 13 years ago
Cool! Just check on the boiling point bit as well. Some plastics are classed as food-grade to a certain temperature.

In other words, this vessel might be food-grade as a fermentor but not as a no-chill cube.
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Post #21 made 13 years ago
Hello,

Should HDPE containers have this symbol, all these containers food grade and can be used as NC cube?
HDPE2.jpg
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Last edited by Kazan on 01 May 2012, 21:38, edited 5 times in total.

Post #22 made 13 years ago
All the HDPE containers I have seen have had the 2 in the triangle symbol.. but I do not know wether this means all plastics with the symbol are HDPE or food safe.

I would assume if it actually has the HDPE underneath like the pictured image that it would have to be HDPE at least.

Sorry I am not an expert so hopefully someone a bit better informed can chime in...

A post form this link http://www.preparedsociety.com/forum/f3 ... rade-2139/
states:
Not All HDPE Containers Are Food Grade
There is a common misconception that all containers made of white plastic or HDPE plastic bearing the symbol are food grade containers. This is not true.

Post #23 made 13 years ago
The one thing you should Know is being "FOOD GRADE" means long storage of food....White/Uncolored HDPE2 as post #22 shows.
Alcohol, and organic acids CAN take colors out of colored HPDE containers (not suitalbe for LOOOOONG storage), But colored HDPE can be used for tranfers, and short storage(<4 weeks) with No worries.

So, IMHO, stay with White HDPE containers, Beware of Green/Blue water/food containers, if you use them !
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Post #24 made 13 years ago
deebo wrote:All the HDPE containers I have seen have had the 2 in the triangle symbol.. but I do not know wether this means all plastics with the symbol are HDPE or food safe.

I would assume if it actually has the HDPE underneath like the pictured image that it would have to be HDPE at least.

Sorry I am not an expert so hopefully someone a bit better informed can chime in...

A post form this link http://www.preparedsociety.com/forum/f3" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; ... rade-2139/
states:
Not All HDPE Containers Are Food Grade
There is a common misconception that all containers made of white plastic or HDPE plastic bearing the symbol are food grade containers. This is not true.
All recycleable plastics should have the triangle on the bottom of them. If there is a 2 in it, its HPDE. From memory there are 7 different types of plastics in this group and they will have a number from 1 to 7 in the triangle. this includes things like PET plastic etc
Last edited by Aces high on 03 May 2012, 08:11, edited 5 times in total.

Post #25 made 13 years ago
Here are the symbols.

So it looks like Pistolpatch is recyclable #5
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