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Post #1 made 8 years ago
by Wyoracer
for starters I'm working off a Beer Smith Wookey Jack clone. I put all the information :I think: correctly into the BIABacus. The starting point of water in brew kettle is SWN correct? then how does TWN figure into the equation and does it matter? I'm not planning on any scaling either or should I have as BIABacus shows under WYWU? and I thought this stuff would be easier -Mash-Boil-Ferment-Drink with a few smaller steps in between. please critique my entries please hope to start the process this weekend
Wyo
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Post #2 made 8 years ago
by PistolPatch
[EDIT: Oops! This recipe is not right. See Rick's post below and my next post.]

Hi Wyo and welcome to the forum :salute:.

Great job on the BIABacus :peace:.

TWN is the total water needed for the brew. If full-volume brewing, Strike Water Needed will be a tad more than TWN. This is because the cold water swells in volume by about 2% when at mash temperature. So, just use 36. 85L of cold water. Once heated to mash temp, this will become 37.58 L.

Always buy/use the amounts written under "What you will use".

I only have time for this one post atm otherwise I'd explain this a bit more but basically, your equipment will be different from that of the original brewer so all recipes that are being copied, regardless of your method of brewing, need to be adjusted. The BIABacus does these calcs for you and considers many factors. (I wrote a few posts yesterday that might help - search for "static" and "dynamic").

The only question on your file is the VAW figure in Section D. I would need to see the original Beersmith file (post a link if posssible) so I can open up the original brewer's equipment profile to check that number. It's the most important volume number in a recipe but it is very difficult to find (sometimes impossible) in other software.

So, that's the only thing we need to check!

Nice job ;),
PP
Last edited by PistolPatch on 25 May 2016, 17:17, edited 2 times in total.
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Post #3 made 8 years ago
by Rick
The grain bill looks good (although, OG looks a little low), but the hops are definitely going to need some attention. Your recipe shows only about 30 IBU, so definitely give a least a half hour steep for those flame out hops before chilling. Also, you might want to use the original Amarillo in place of the Cascade. Not only will it be closer to the original, but the higher AA% will require fewer hops to hit your IBU target (which will soak up less beer). Magnum, or some other clean, high AA% "bittering" hops is also a good idea for the same reason (see linked recipe for where this one goes).

I have never experienced it, but many do not like the flavors/aromas that citra gives off after being boiled for 20+ minutes. Personally, I think it's a crap anecdote based on my own experience ... just thought it might be worth a mention.

I brew it from this recipe, and it turns out pretty close.
http://www.homebrewtalk.com/showthread.php?t=333436


Matt Brynildson is said to have direct input on the linked recipe, and having brewed it a few times .. I can confirm it's pretty close.

Have fermented with both US05 and WLP002 (as well as S04) ... and WLP002 is by FAR the closest. The US05 dries it out too much, and you really need that residual malt character to get close.

Mash 145F for 60m and 155F for another 30m if you switch to the english yeast, otherwise 149-151 will suffice for the US05.
Last edited by Rick on 25 May 2016, 22:26, edited 1 time in total.
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Post #4 made 8 years ago
by Wyoracer
Thanks for the explanations and advice. I also found the links to biabacus help which explained a lot just now
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Post #5 made 8 years ago
by PistolPatch
Rick wrote:Your recipe shows only about 30 IBU...
Nice Rick! I just saw all the hop additions and never even checked the IBU's. 30 IBU's is definitely way out of style - should be at least double that so...

There is, without doubt, a big problem here Wyo so don't go buying any ingredients yet.

I just had a look on the BeerSmith Cloud and 8 recipes come up when I search for "Wookey Jack". I can't find any that match your file so the best course of action would be to see if Rick can upload his file. It is very rare/lucky for you that Rick is experienced in this clone so he will, without doubt, be the best person to get a decent recipe from.

Anyone, even with no experience, can publish a recipe to many recipe databases. Often these recipes haven't even been brewed by the author so they really have no value.

I'll bounce this one back to Rick but will keep an eye on this thread in case you need any long explanations on anything :),
PP
Last edited by PistolPatch on 25 May 2016, 22:43, edited 1 time in total.
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Post #6 made 8 years ago
by Rick
I'm short on time, but I sent my file to Patch for a look over. If he doesn't post it within the next 24hrs or so, I should have the time to do it myself by then.
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Post #7 made 8 years ago
by Wyoracer
thanks for posting that link Rick, I'm going to change to the hops listed in that recipe. I had Cascade available and on beersmith it was listed as a substitute. I'll save them for a single hop brew later.
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Post #8 made 8 years ago
by Rick
Here is the file, slight modifications to round specialty malts to 1/2lb.

If chilling, the aroma will be good as is, but with no-chill I find there to be a need for more dry hops than listed. About another ounce in secondary should suffice, but I always do 2oz in primary and 5oz in secondary for my needs with a hoppy beer of this gravity (nearly double).
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Post #9 made 8 years ago
by Wyoracer
I adjusted the brew kettle size back to my setup, that should only affect the water level I thought but the grain has changed also I see.
Thanks again for the help :!:
Last edited by Wyoracer on 27 May 2016, 02:28, edited 1 time in total.
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Post #10 made 8 years ago
by Rick
Wyoracer wrote:I adjusted the brew kettle size back to my setup, that should only affect the water level I thought but the grain has changed also I see.
Thanks again for the help :!:

A kettle with more surface area will have a higher evaporation rate, which requires more TWN to last the duration of the boil. This additional water also happens to further dilute the mash, which will improve kettle efficiency.

I'm guessing you have a smaller (diameter) kettle than I do, which in turn has a lower evap rate ... which requires less TWN to last the 90m boil. The BIABacus recognizes that and adjusts accordingly.
Last edited by Rick on 27 May 2016, 02:42, edited 2 times in total.
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Post #11 made 8 years ago
by Wyoracer
I have a roughly 61L capacity kettle as my large kettle. In the future, I'll try the spreadsheet out on my smaller 17L kettle for small batch biab
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Post #12 made 8 years ago
by Wyoracer
I love this, my OCD is overrun with what to do. Ok, WLP002 yeast requires how many cells to make this brew awesome? I was planning on this step later as I had hoped to use either dry or WYeast packs first but, boom!, here I arrive. I'm pretty technical in nature so this will only propel my first brewing experience to a level not normally seen for a first time brewer probably.
Back to the original ?, how many cells?
Cheers!
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Post #13 made 8 years ago
by Rick
292 billion if you get all 5.5g into the fermenter. With hop losses it'll probably be closer to 5.25G. So, around 280 billion.

380 billion if you want to over build to save 100 billion for future use.

Mix the packs up thoroughly before pouring in the yeast, or else the stuff will come out like peanut butter.

Here is the calculator I like for over building.

http://www.brewunited.com/yeast_calculator.php#
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