Hi there goldy
I'll have a crack at working things out for you as best as I can. Being the first one to answer a question here, I will go overboard and explain all my thinking. You'll probably fall asleep soon
. I'm sure that future posters will be a bit more "efficient" than I am
It actually took me quite a while to write in the manner below. In real life, and only because I have done quite a few brews, it only takes a few minutes.
Fingers crossed that the below helps rather than confuses. If it does, just go with the results
[center]Restrictions on the Result of Your Recipe
Providing your kettle measurements and shape is the perfect start. I noticed that your post was made before BIABrewer's second post and that he moved it so I am going to assume that you only have a 25lt fermenter. (If you have a 30lt fermenter then you can increase things a bit.)
With a pale ale using US-05 yeast in a 25 L fermenter, you can safely put 23 L of wort into that fermenter. So, our first restriction is...
Volume into Fermenter:
Should equal and not exceed 23 L.
: I know from experience that 60 L is more than enough to get 23 L into the fermenter so this is no problem. If I thought there could be a problem, I would keep an eye on the, "Approximate Mash Volume," figure that is provided in The Calculator
[center]Checking the Recipe Information Provided
: Glancing at your ingredients, I understand all the information you have provided which is great. For example, if you hadn't provided the grain manufacturer's name I might have had to ask what the colour was. You have given the AA%, times and weights of the hops so all is great here as well. (The Galena/Galaxy discrepancy is irrelevant to our calcs.)
: You will rarely see the chilling method described in a recipe. It was great of the source to do so but for all practical purposes, when converting recipes, we can ignore this as some brewers thinks it makes a difference and others dont.
Original Gravity and Bitterness
: These two important figures have been provided. This is tops and is often the only
information we can work from. Because you have provided a heap of other information goldy, we don't have to rely on these and can be a bit more accurate.
[center]Converting the Recipe
With all the information you have provided above, any brewing software can be used to scale and convert this recipe. I will use The Calculator
seeing as everyone here has access to it.
The Grain Bill
Despite so much information being provided, only two "definite" things can be gained from the recipe at this stage. They are the, "End of Boil Gravity," (OG) which equals 1.046 and the grain bill used to achieve this which equals 4.6 kg.
Opening The Calculator
I will first fill in the End of Boil Gravity figure with 1.046.
Secondly, I will change the End of Boil Efficiency figure to 70% as this is the only volume-related figure provided in the original recipe.
Thirdly, I will change the Diameter of Kettle figure to 43.8 cm as provided by you.
Now I will keep changing the Brew Length figure until the Grain Bill Required figure equals 4.6 kg - the total of the original recipe's grain bill.
The result is a Brew Length of 17.1 L.
(Take a note now of the End of Boil Volume figure - write it down!)
In this case it is about 21.5 L.
I know though that BIAB is more efficient than 70%. The default on The Calculator
at time of writing is 75% though most brewers would find they get better than 75%. As goldy does not know his efficiency figure yet, we will use the default of 75%.
We also know that he can end up with 23 L in his fermenter so let's change the Brew Length figure a few times until "Volume into Fermenter" = 23 L. A brew length of 21.3 L will give us this. So, given Goldy's desire to get 23 L into his fermenter, his evaporation rate (determined by kettle diameter)and his efficiency (default of 75%) we can now see that The Calculator tells us to use 5362 grams of grain for his brew.
So, jumping to the Grain Bill part of The Calculator
(the second sheet of the spreadsheet), I will fill in coumn D as no percentages of grain were provided. In other words,
Grain 1 = 3500 g, Grain 2 = 800 g, Grain 3 = 200 g and Grain 4 = 100 g.
On the right hand side of this sheet I can see how much grain that goldy will need to get more beer (23 l in his fermenter versus 17.1 l) at 75% versus 70% efficiency.
Goldy, you need to order...
4080 g of BB Ale Malt
932 g of BB Wheat Malt
233 g of Flaked Wheat
117 g of Munich 1.
The Hop Bill
Moving to the Hop Bill part of The Calculator
(Sheet 3) we can type in on the left hand side the original hops used.
Hop 1 was 15 g at 14.9%AA. In column G we type 10 under "Time." Hop 2 was 25 g at 14.9%AA at 5 minutes.
Above these figures in the End of Boil Volume cell you should type in 21.5 L. (This is the figure you were asked to write down above. Don't worry, I forgot too!)
Now on the right, just type in the AA% of the hops you have in your possession.
Now, you will see your adjusted hop weights. Assuming that your hops goldy are also of 14.9%AA then for your brew, you will need...
18.7 g of Galaxy (14.9%AA) at 10 minutes before the end of the boil
31.2 g of Galaxy (14.9%AA) at 5 minutes before the end of the boil.
Volume of Water Needed
The "Water Required" field on the first sheet of The Caclualtor tells you that you need 39.88 L for your brew.
There you go* - lol!
* I hope the above is not too confusing but there is really no way around understanding this. In future in this thread, I will try and be a bit briefer