Working towards my first BIAB

Post #1 made 12 years ago
Im cutting ap a keg today to make a 13.5 gal keggle. Also making a 50ft copper immersion chiller. Ordering a couple 5 gal fermenters and a bottling bucket. My question is. Should I order a BIAB specific ingredient kit or will any all grain kit work, just modified a bit for all grain.

I don't have an HBS local to me and I'm inexperienced so a kit will make the switch from extract to all grain much easier.

Thanks guys

Post #2 made 12 years ago
Any standard all grain kit will work fine, BIAB brewing is all grain brewing and doesn't require any special recipe ingredients or modifications.
WWBBD?
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Post #3 made 12 years ago
Dustinj,

Why are you making a immersion chiller? No-Chill is easier, cheaper and a lot less work? I built a immersion chill and it hangs in the garage. It cost me 3 spoiled brews in a row! (my fault) but still?

You don't change anything when brewing BIAB recipe wise. Find a recipe you like and brew it. All grain is All fun! welcome to the fracas

fra·cas (fr k s, fr k s). n. A noisy, disorderly fight or quarrel; a brawl. See Synonyms at brawl. [French, from Italian fracasso, from fracassare, to make an uproar.
Last edited by BobBrews on 27 Jan 2013, 03:07, edited 2 times in total.
tap 1 Raspberry wine
tap 2 Bourbon Barrel Porter
tap 3 Czech Pilsner
tap 4 Triple IPA 11% ABV

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Post #5 made 12 years ago
Good Day, My IM was copper and the sanitizer was shut off by the Copper oxide, and then contaminated the Beer with a metallic taste..NO-CHILL Rules!!
Honest Officer, I swear to Drunk, I am Not God.
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Post #9 made 12 years ago
Thats he jist of it Dustinj,although there are few here who are experimenting with doing the entire ferment in the cube and going straight to packaging.
AWOL

Post #10 made 12 years ago
Dustinj,

I use the 6 gallon round. I don't like the round as much as a rectangular one but I like 6 gallons rather than 5. Sometimes I just need the room!

http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/item.a ... &catid=459

I occasionally ferment in the no chill container depending on if I get a clean wort or not. What I mean by clean wort is sometimes I just dump the pellet hops in and they (with any break material) leave a lot of residue (trube). If I use Irish moss and let the pot sit a while I may draw off a clean wort. If I am short on wort because I boiled to long or I was short on water to begin with. I may put everything into the no chill, (cool) and siphon out as usual into a bucket to ferment. It just depends?

I bought a extra cap when I purchased the round cube? I drilled out the cap and fitted a air lock into it. So when I do ferment in the cube. I just use the airlock cap! If the cube is really full and I expect a big fermentation I sanitized a piece of plastic wrap and covered the cap hole with it secured with a rubber band. If the fermentation reaches the bottom of the air lock and clogs it. (something bad will happen?) :cry: So for the first day or two of vigorous fermentation I will leave on the plastic wrap and put the cap airlock on later.
airlock_caps.jpg
Airlock-no-chill.jpg
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Last edited by BobBrews on 27 Jan 2013, 22:06, edited 2 times in total.
tap 1 Raspberry wine
tap 2 Bourbon Barrel Porter
tap 3 Czech Pilsner
tap 4 Triple IPA 11% ABV

Pipeline: Mulled Cider 10% ABV

http://cheesestradamus.com/ Brewers challenge!
    • SVA Brewer With Over 100 Brews From United States of America

Post #13 made 12 years ago
Dustinj,

I fill the no-chill container (some round and some rectangular) and loosely put the cap on. I go to the wall of the garage (house?) and use my knee to squeeze the air out. I tighten the cap and then let the pressure off the side of the container. I then scream because I always forget that the cube is HOT! I really don't think it is important to do this procedure. I do it because when we started no-chilling we were full of myths about hot-side aeration and over compensated and over reacted to everything. I am a creature of habit. I wouldn't worry about it. Some day I may do a study on it?.....
tap 1 Raspberry wine
tap 2 Bourbon Barrel Porter
tap 3 Czech Pilsner
tap 4 Triple IPA 11% ABV

Pipeline: Mulled Cider 10% ABV

http://cheesestradamus.com/ Brewers challenge!
    • SVA Brewer With Over 100 Brews From United States of America

Post #15 made 12 years ago
Mad_Scientist,
I hope you don't have to do any math for it!!!
I avoid experiments that have a lot of math involved. I try to do experiments that are "easy as 1, 2, 4"!
Last edited by BobBrews on 29 Jan 2013, 21:25, edited 2 times in total.
tap 1 Raspberry wine
tap 2 Bourbon Barrel Porter
tap 3 Czech Pilsner
tap 4 Triple IPA 11% ABV

Pipeline: Mulled Cider 10% ABV

http://cheesestradamus.com/ Brewers challenge!
    • SVA Brewer With Over 100 Brews From United States of America

Post #16 made 12 years ago
Bob, Don't worry about Higher Mathmatics, It seems 4 out of 3 people have troubles with fractions!!!
Honest Officer, I swear to Drunk, I am Not God.
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Post #17 made 12 years ago
joshua,

Some people are good at math and some people are brilliant and good looking. I am glad that I am poor at math!!!
tap 1 Raspberry wine
tap 2 Bourbon Barrel Porter
tap 3 Czech Pilsner
tap 4 Triple IPA 11% ABV

Pipeline: Mulled Cider 10% ABV

http://cheesestradamus.com/ Brewers challenge!
    • SVA Brewer With Over 100 Brews From United States of America

Post #18 made 12 years ago
Dustinj,

I have two large kettles (70L versus your 50L) and I chill and no-chill. Both methods have advantages and disadvantages. If you have an immersion chiller and are single batching, I would advise using it especially when starting out.

The immersion chiller you have built is a great investment. I would advise you to ignore no-chilling for now unless you get in a situation where you don't have a fermentor available to pitch immediately.

An immersion chiller offers many advantages not available to even commercial breweries. It's also a very safe route that only costs water. (Check on the points the guys have made above re leaks and cleanliness though.)

Using your immersion chiller at flame-out is what I have always done with my beers until I started doing the double-batches I now do. (I now drain the first half of my kettle into a cube for no-chilling and then, when that's finsihed turn on my chiller.) This method still gives me very respectable results in comps on both the no-chilled and chilled batches but I feel that the beers I used to brew by turning on the chiller at flame out had more of a snappiness/crispness to them. It's only a little thing though and, on reflection, I think I mainly pick it up on less hoppy beers such as lagers/pilsners.

What I'm trying to say is that there are hundreds of different ways to put hops into a beer and manage them. An immersion chiller turned on at flame out is a very good/primitive/solid point to start exploring hop management from so don't be scared to do it.

And, don't be scared of no-chill either!!!

Hop management - the greatest mystery in brewing :smoke:,
PP
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Post #20 made 12 years ago
Good Day RDBrett, No-chill is the way to save a lot of water, and shorten a brew day.

It helps if you don't have a good yeast starter for some brews.

Also, Depending on where you live, It is better somtimes during the year to brew(hot Summers), and better times to ferment(cool Winters).

No-chill lets you separate Brewing and Fermentation by days or MONTHS! and Possible years....

You can Pitch/Ferment anytime you have the correct temperature for the style of beer(Lager/ale).
Honest Officer, I swear to Drunk, I am Not God.
    • SVA Brewer With Over 100 Brews From United States of America

Post #21 made 12 years ago
So after you boil, you put it in a container/fermentor and let it sit? Then pitch yeast later? So, it just slowly cools naturally? At what temp do you put it in plastic? Whats the advantage? Spreading out the brew day? Risk of infection or bacteria? Interesting. Thanks.
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