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Post #1176 made 12 years ago
by BrewBagMan
Mad_Scientist wrote:BrewBagMan, that is over 50% dilution, twice the maximum. PP doesn't exceed 15%. I heard 25% is the max.

But I'll be sparging as per Ralph's viewtopic.php?f=89&t=352 instructions and NOT diluting.

As I understand dilution occurs when water is added to the boil or FV that has not had contact with the grain.

I just need a bigger kettle, I know!! :lol:
Last edited by BrewBagMan on 31 Mar 2013, 07:53, edited 7 times in total.

Post #1178 made 12 years ago
by PistolPatch
BrewBagMan is okay Richard as he isn't doing any dilutions during or after the boil. These are the ones that can affect quality and recipe integrity. He will be using them in a minute though :P...

VIK exceeds Kettle Size

The VIK in Section K exceeds the kettle limits. There should be a warning on this at the base of Secion W but it seems to have disappeared since PR1.1 :angry:. I'll attach a corrected file below that has various warnings appear under Section W.

Sparging with say 5 l and then adding 4 l during the boil and 2 l top up in the fermentor would be a way around this and prevent any extreme brewing (kettles filled to the brim etc). I think that'd be okay. The only real question is how these dilutions affect the hop profile. There's not much info on this unfortunately. I think you are fine to go with the 5, 4 and 2 though.

Section D should be using EOBV-A

Have a read of my posts that include the words "Tinseth" "Garetz" and "Rager". There are probably links in this thread in the last 3 pages to posts on this. These will explain why the second line in Section D should really only be used when designing a recipe not copying one.

As usual, the original recipe does not state it's EOBV-A clearly. Have had a quick look and using 41.64 L (11 gal) is as good a guess as we can make and will work out fine. (Have put this in the file below).

The Original "Brewhouse" Efficiency

In this case, what they mean by 'brewhouse' efficiency will be EIF - see the Pre-release temporary help thread for more info on terminology. Although you see it time and again, EIF is a completely useless term to publish in a recipe report unless they also tell you the KFL (kettle to fermentor loss) and VIF and they never do :roll:. Anyway, you don't need to consider original efficiency figures of any kind in the BIABacus - they are irrelevant.

In the file below, you won't see the red warning I mentioned in Section W unless you change my numbers in Section W back to your 9 L under 'Water Used in a Sparge'.

:peace:
PP
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Last edited by PistolPatch on 31 Mar 2013, 16:41, edited 7 times in total.
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Post #1179 made 12 years ago
by Dauthi
Heey all,

I Noticed a bug in Biabacus 1.3 in section N/O.

When I put numbers in Section N, the IBU and Color in Section O don't give any values anymore.

And sometimes Section E gets buggy, states #VALUE, and then the temperature calculations go haywire.

And I copied a question, I think wasn't answered yet ;)
How does making a brewing at higher efficiency affect the flavor profile given by the malt?
Does being 10% points more efficient make for a completely different tasting beer?

Have a good sunday!
We are brewing :)
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Post #1180 made 12 years ago
by BrewBagMan
Thanks for the post PP
PistolPatch wrote:
Section D should be using EOBV-A
This is one of the things that annoys me when attempting to convert recipes... there always seems to be bits of info missing or the terminology is mixed up.

I appreciate what you're saying about "extreme brewing". I'm not really comfortable with the "fill to the brim" approach, but can see the appeal to brewers with small pots :blush: like myself. I'll give 542 a whirl and see how I go.

I'm off to search your previous posts to see why the BIABacus doesn't require one to bother with efficiency?

Cheers,
Lee
Last edited by BrewBagMan on 01 Apr 2013, 11:52, edited 7 times in total.

Post #1181 made 12 years ago
by PistolPatch
Dauthi wrote:Heey all,

I Noticed a bug in Biabacus 1.3 in section N/O.

When I put numbers in Section N, the IBU and Color in Section O don't give any values anymore.

And sometimes Section E gets buggy, states #VALUE, and then the temperature calculations go haywire.

And I copied a question, I think wasn't answered yet ;)
How does making a brewing at higher efficiency affect the flavor profile given by the malt?
Does being 10% points more efficient make for a completely different tasting beer?

Have a good sunday!
We are brewing :)
Hi there Dauthi,

The reason you don't have values showing in O is because there are no actuals in the last two fields of Section L - KFL and VIF. Fill those in and you'll see some numbers in O appear.

Next time you see the #value error in E can you post the file? I'm not able to create that error but the sooner we can find it the better.

Does Efficiency into Kettle (EIK) affect the Flavour Profile?

As for whether the 'Efficiency into Kettle (EIK)' affects the taste of a beer, we need to look at that question from many different angles. For example, if you and I had the same equipment and you had 75% EIK while I had 85%, you have to ask why is there any difference? If your water's pH is way out and mine isn't then that might explain the 10% difference (probably not a 10% difference but you get the idea) and obviously the two resulting beers will taste different. Yours could well taste worse will probably taste worse.

Or, what if we had exactly the same traditional equipment and exactly the same water but I am sparging my water at 100C and have crushed my grain fine? Your beer will taste much better than mine. Mine will be full of tannins probably.

Or, maybe you mashed for longer than me? Your efficiency would be higher so you'd need less grain to start with. Could we taste a difference between the two beers though? Who knows?

So, we need to look at the reasons behind the variance in 'Efficiency into Kettle (EIK)' before knowing whether and/or how the flavour of the beer will be affected.

But, let's have a look at one more scenario....

Let's say we have the same equipment and the same water and the same temperatures etc, etc. The only way to affect the efficiency is by altering how much water actually 'sees' the grain. In any type of brew where no dilutions are involved, all of the 'Total Water Needed - TWN' for a brew will touch the grain at some point. What happens though if we say held back half of the TWN and added it before the boil? In other words, what would happen if half the water never saw the grain but was added before the boil?

Careful!!! Do not get confused on the following terminology.

Holding back half the TWN from any mash/sparge and adding it directly to the kettle instead before the boil is actually a brewing method called 'no-sparging'. This term is often used incorrectly these days. For example, full-volume BIAB is not a no-sparge method as all the water sees the grain. More details on this can be found in this thread.

As mentioned in that thread, the 'no-sparge' method is said to give a richer maltier beer. The cost of this higher quality can be easily seen in the BIABacus. Open up a recipe file, look at the TWN at the top of Section K, halve that number and add it to 'Water Added Before the Boil' field in Section W. You will find the grain bill required jumps by about a third.

So, Dauthi, they're my thoughts on your question. Sorry I didn't answer it sooner but there is a bit of a backlog of questions occurring in this thread atm unfortunately.

Hope your brewing went well :peace: ,
PP
Last edited by PistolPatch on 01 Apr 2013, 16:56, edited 7 times in total.
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Post #1182 made 12 years ago
by PistolPatch
BrewBagMan wrote:...This is one of the things that annoys me when attempting to convert recipes... there always seems to be bits of info missing or the terminology is mixed up.

...

I'm off to search your previous posts to see why the BIABacus doesn't require one to bother with efficiency?
The poor terminology etc will drive you mad. It's been driving some of us mad for years :lol:. A search of the word 'unambiguous' will probably lead to a few good rants on this problem and why such much attention to detail and time has been spent on terminology during the BIABacus project.

Instead of going mad though, just accept the fact that nearly all recipes published on the net and even in some books do not give enough information to be copied easily, if at all. It's a real, "The Emperor has no clothes," situation. The thread Does this recipe have integrity? Can I copy it? will have some more info on this. And this post has some good examples of low integrity recipes.

...

Hope you haven't spent too much time looking for old posts that explain why efficiency isn't needed in recipe scaling/copying as you probably won't find one Lee :P. We better have a look at why...

Only Two Things Are needed to Copy/Scale a Grain Bill

The only two things needed to copy or scale a grain bill from someone else's recipe are the original gravity and the ratios of the grains used. Nothing more and nothing less. Ratios of the grains used can be given as percentages or just the actual weights the original brewer used - either method works.

The main job of the left hand side of Section D of the BIABacus is to input these ratios.

Why are the Original Brewer's EIK Irrelevant?

Hopefully the above section answers this.

What is relevant about efficiency figures are your ones not the other brewers. For example, your efficiencies determine how much grain you will need to attain the OG prescribed in the recipe you are copying. The good news is that the BIABacus estimates those efficiencies for you so you may actually never even have to worry about efficiency figures ever!!!

Can I Learn Anything from the Source Recipes's Efficiency Figures?

Probably not. Nearly all do not define what efficiency figure they mean. If they do, there is usually another critical figure missing such as 'Kettle to Fermentor Loss - KFL'.

Even if these figures were provided well, their only real use is to help in detecting what other parts of the original recipe report are ambiguous and this is advanced stuff.

So, ignore other people's efficiency figures. The only focus should be on your own figures and if your actuals are estimating those given by the BIABacus on most brews then you don't even have to focus on that.

:party:
PP
Last edited by PistolPatch on 01 Apr 2013, 17:46, edited 7 times in total.
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Post #1183 made 12 years ago
by Dauthi
PistolPatch wrote:
Dauthi wrote:Heey all,

I Noticed a bug in Biabacus 1.3 in section N/O.

When I put numbers in Section N, the IBU and Color in Section O don't give any values anymore.

And sometimes Section E gets buggy, states #VALUE, and then the temperature calculations go haywire.

And I copied a question, I think wasn't answered yet ;)
How does making a brewing at higher efficiency affect the flavor profile given by the malt?
Does being 10% points more efficient make for a completely different tasting beer?

Have a good sunday!
We are brewing :)
Hi there Dauthi,

The reason you don't have values showing in O is because there are no actuals in the last two fields of Section L - KFL and VIF. Fill those in and you'll see some numbers in O appear.

Next time you see the #value error in E can you post the file? I'm not able to create that error but the sooner we can find it the better.

Does Efficiency into Kettle (EIK) affect the Flavour Profile?

As for whether the 'Efficiency into Kettle (EIK)' affects the taste of a beer, we need to look at that question from many different angles. For example, if you and I had the same equipment and you had 75% EIK while I had 85%, you have to ask why is there any difference? If your water's pH is way out and mine isn't then that might explain the 10% difference (probably not a 10% difference but you get the idea) and obviously the two resulting beers will taste different. Yours could well taste worse will probably taste worse.

Or, what if we had exactly the same traditional equipment and exactly the same water but I am sparging my water at 100C and have crushed my grain fine? Your beer will taste much better than mine. Mine will be full of tannins probably.

Or, maybe you mashed for longer than me? Your efficiency would be higher so you'd need less grain to start with. Could we taste a difference between the two beers though? Who knows?

So, we need to look at the reasons behind the variance in 'Efficiency into Kettle (EIK)' before knowing whether and/or how the flavour of the beer will be affected.

But, let's have a look at one more scenario....

Let's say we have the same equipment and the same water and the same temperatures etc, etc. The only way to affect the efficiency is by altering how much water actually 'sees' the grain. In any type of brew where no dilutions are involved, all of the 'Total Water Needed - TWN' for a brew will touch the grain at some point. What happens though if we say held back half of the TWN and added it before the boil? In other words, what would happen if half the water never saw the grain but was added before the boil?

Careful!!! Do not get confused on the following terminology.

Holding back half the TWN from any mash/sparge and adding it directly to the kettle instead before the boil is actually a brewing method called 'no-sparging'. This term is often used incorrectly these days. For example, full-volume BIAB is not a no-sparge method as all the water sees the grain. More details on this can be found in this thread.

As mentioned in that thread, the 'no-sparge' method is said to give a richer maltier beer. The cost of this higher quality can be easily seen in the BIABacus. Open up a recipe file, look at the TWN at the top of Section K, halve that number and add it to 'Water Added Before the Boil' field in Section W. You will find the grain bill required jumps by about a third.

So, Dauthi, they're my thoughts on your question. Sorry I didn't answer it sooner but there is a bit of a backlog of questions occurring in this thread atm unfortunately.

Hope your brewing went well :peace: ,
PP
Thanks PP,
I'll try and ram some numbers in to see if I can get it to go haywire again in Section E. But probably it was my fault what happened.

Brewing went well. We were asked by our student association to brew a couple of bottles so they can use them as a fundraiser.

We did some back to back maxi brewing to get 25 liters into the fermenter.

At a slightly higher than expected gravity.

Hopefully this month, we can get some more equipment to be more precise and have the ability to eliminate more trub.
Last edited by Dauthi on 01 Apr 2013, 17:58, edited 7 times in total.

Post #1184 made 12 years ago
by PistolPatch
Mad_Scientist wrote:I've been trying for the last couple of days to do simple math (on paper) based on my BIABacus recipe 'actuals' from Sections L and M as per what I learned from stux on this thread here;
http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f36/biab-qu" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; ... ost3542475
http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f36/biab-qu" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; ... ost3542475
where you can get 'a neat double-check on your efficiency'.

My simple math is;
GIK * VIK is 60 * 12.76 = 766
EOBG * EOBV-A is 72 * 10.57 = 761

My efficiencies line up the best in Section P when I change my EOBG to 1.070, then I get a 76.4% and 76.8%.

I'm pretty sure I didn't get the best sample for my refractometer reading for the EOBG. My reading was actually a 1.074 which doesn't give me that 'neat double-check on efficiency'.

If based on my actual volumes being correct in Section L, can I conclude that my EOBG was 1.070 were they do match up the closest?

Is there another 'check point' we can use, such as the PLG reading multipled my some formula, to have '3 neat triple-check efficiency' checks?
Hey there Richard :peace:,

Sorry this question didn't get answered and thanks as always for your having a crack at other's questions here :salute:.

Your simple maths is good/correct. You probably read this post later in the thread that gives some related calcs.

Lining Up Efficiencies

It is super rare that you will get efficiencies to line up on a single brew. Your 766 versus 761 is extremely close anyway, not even worth a second look. Most of the time you should be happy getting within 5% agreement on your efficiecny 'sets'. You should never expect them to exactly match. And you definitely can't go changing your actuals to make things add up. That's what everyone else does :lol:.

Three Triple Checks (EIK* or EOBE)

There is actually an infinity of places where we can take 'Efficiency into Kettle (EIK)' or 'End of Boil Efficiency (EOBE)' readings. For example, we can take efficiency readings at any time during the boil. We can even take them at mash out and at pitching as well.

Here's a few places you can measure efficiency 'sets' (volume and gravity) fairly practically...

1. After Mash-Out - Take a volume and gravity reading after you pull the bag. Use the Unit Conversion sheet of the BIABacus to convert your volume from mash to ambient. If you leave your bag hanging in a bucket to collect more wort, make sure you measure and add that volume of wort to your calcs.

2. Boil Start - Taking volume measurements during the boil might sound easy but they can be hard. Even after turning the flame off you will notice the wort is still a little jumpy. Wort also contracts exponentially so you don't want to be waiting minutes before you take a measurement. Use the Unit Conversion sheet of the BIABacus to convert your volume from 'boiling' to 'ambient'.

3. During the Boil - This is one not often done but can be more sensible than an end of boil check (see below). See 2 above re measuring boiling wort.

4. Immediate End of Boil - See 2 above re measuring boiling wort.If you use an immersion chiller, taking an efficiency set just before you add it might be more sensible than trying to work out the chiller displacement.

5. Before Pitching - Measure your VIF and add it to KFL. For KFL, including your hop debris will give you a better measurement than excluding it.

Each of the above steps also requires the taking of a gravity reading. Hot gravity readings should be scooped up with a coffee cup and then covered and cooled before measuring with a hydrometer.

How many Measurement Sets should I take?

The more measurement sets you take the faster you will learn how unreliable a single set is. The more measurement sets you take the less confident you will become on making pre-pitching corrections based on a single measurement. The more measurement sets you take, the faster you will discover if you have a problem. All of these things are good :P.

When you absolutely know the above then measurement can become very unimportant.

;)
PP

* Just had a terminology light-bulb flick on whilst writing the above. While we do have the two expressions EIK and EOBE, we can actually look at EIK as not just meaning 'Efficiency into the Kettle' but we could also see it as 'Efficiency in the Kettle'. In other words EOBE is just another EIK as are any of the five sets above. Interesting terminology thing but maybe not useful :scratch:.
Last edited by PistolPatch on 01 Apr 2013, 19:01, edited 7 times in total.
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Post #1185 made 12 years ago
by PistolPatch
maevans wrote:...So the practical limitations of my pot and my recipe can be discovered by fiddling with all the entries until I get a recipe that has no more than c. 3KG of grain, and leaves a during/post boil dilution percentage of no more than 30% once I've sparged.

Doing this has led me to make the attached recipe - anything standing out as obviously wrong/mad? If not, I'll give this a go - I guess as well as learning the theory of this I'll have to work out the practicalities by just doing it!
Hi there maevans ;). You've probably gathered by now that I am trying to catch up on a few things in this thread. I'm doing this to avoid other stuff :).

I didn't understand the bit above where you said c. 3 kg of grain. All your reasoning before that was great :peace:.

30% is the maximum you should go for on an into fermentor dilution (15% is better). Pre-boil dilutions are not a quality penalty at all and during the boil additions vary between these two.

In your file, you had 1 l added during the boil and 2 l in the fermentor. You r evaporation is 4.2 L so you can actually do all your dilutions during the boil. That's the only prob I could see with the file.

The evaporation figure is a good one to keep an eye on in Maxi-BIAB as that number can pretty much always be put straight into 'Water added during the Boil' if needed.

:peace:
PP
Last edited by PistolPatch on 01 Apr 2013, 19:21, edited 7 times in total.
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Post #1186 made 12 years ago
by PistolPatch
I've only skimmed through the last few pages of this thread so can you let us know if you have still been neglected here?

If so, can you do what Dauthi did and re-post your question? (Sorry you had to do it twice Dauthi :argh:.)

:peace:
PP
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Post #1187 made 12 years ago
by mtate75
Thanks PP for the time you've put into your feedback!

I was hoping to get this online sooner but the Easter weekend was quite busy. Brew day on Friday was pretty fun, but there were issues and learnings along the way. I've attached my final numbers and would love to hear some feedback on how I did. The entire brewday, from turning on the gas to getting everything cleaned up, took about 7.5 hours. I'm pretty sure there are some opportunities to make my process more efficient.

My mash volume ended up being about a half gallon larger than expected. I measured the volume after stirring for several minutes and letting the temp get settled. Is that the wrong time?

I thought I would try a mash out on this one but learned that it isn't a good idea when lifting the bag by hand and only having a large cooling rack on which to rest the bag. I lost a little bit of wort to the ground, but not too much.

Sparging almost 20 lbs of grain with 5 liters of water was a huge PITA in my brew bucket. I either need to find a larger vessel to do the sparge in, use more grain and not sparge, or make smaller batches with my current setup.

I'm surprised to see that evaporation was close to three gallons as it was an exceptionally windy day and I had a hard time keeping a consistent boil going. Would the wind have caused the boil off to be so high? Temps were in the mid-50s when I started and were in the mid-60s when I finished up, and it felt like the humidity was pretty low.

Transferring the wort from pot to fermenter is where the real fun happened. I stirred for several minutes to get a good whirlpool going and then let the wort settle for about 20 minutes. About 3.5 gallons into the transfer the wort turned really cloudy so I stopped and checked my gravity. It was really high so I added a gallon of spring water to come up to 4.5 gallons. This knocked the gravity down too far so I ended up just pouring wort from the pot to the fermenter. At 5.5 gallons the gravity was 1.089 so I stopped. I'm thinking that I may install a ball valve before my next brew day in hopes of making transferring easier and cleaner.

As far as the numbers on BIABacus go, I feel like everything was measured accurately. I missed the PLG measurement and don't really know when to take that one. Since 2.2 lbs of sugar was left out until the end I tried to work backwards based on the formulas PP gave to figure out what the GIK was and feel like I did it correctly. The measured GIK was 1.065 if anyone wants to double check my work.

Key learnings: 1) high-gravity brews using my current set-up would probably be easier in smaller batches, 2) heating sparge water on the stove will be much easier than moving around a pot with 13 inches of water plus 20 lbs of grain, 3) a ball valve could make life easier, 4) I need to brew more to get dialed in with my setup, and 5) there are probably some areas where I could make my process more efficient.

I'm looking forward to what you guys have to say. Thanks again to all those that gave feedback while preparing for this.
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Post #1188 made 12 years ago
by Mad_Scientist
mtate75, I see that you like the high gravity IPA's. Based on this brew, '115th dream' and others like it in the future, I would modify your nice pot and carefully put in a 3 piece valve, using a step drill bit. You could drain your wort after a mash-out into plastic buckets, then use a 12" pot lid to push down on the bag to "press'-'squeeze' out through the open valve. Make sure you have a cake rack in-place......

If you continue to have a high boil off rate, no problem, you would make out better using ~ 2.5 gallons for a sparge anyway. Just add what you can prior to the boil and some along the way. 1 gallon of sparge didn't seem like it was worth the effort. If you drop a penny, drop also a dollar so it's worth the effort to bend down and get it. :lol:

After sparging, carefully pour the wort back into the pot, so as to not splash, introduce any oxygen.

my 2 cents. ~richard
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Post #1190 made 12 years ago
by Dauthi
PistolPatch wrote:I've only skimmed through the last few pages of this thread so can you let us know if you have still been neglected here?

If so, can you do what Dauthi did and re-post your question? (Sorry you had to do it twice Dauthi :argh:.)

:peace:
PP
No worries!!

Your answers are worth the wait :thumbs:

All doh I always have more questions ^^
Last edited by Dauthi on 02 Apr 2013, 07:03, edited 7 times in total.

Post #1191 made 12 years ago
by Mad_Scientist
PistolPatch wrote: The Calcs to Confuse You :P

In this recipe, you will be using about 2.21 pounds of sugar at 46.2 points per pound per gallon. Therefore 46.2 * 2.21 = 102 gravity points will be contributed to the brew by the corn sugar.

In the file below, in Section K you will see that the estimated VIK is 7.39 gallons and that the Gravity into Kettle in Section L is predicted to be 1.077/3. That means there will be...

7.39*77.3=571 gravity points in the kettle. But! 102 of those gravity points won't really be there as we haven't added the sugar so...

571-102=469 gravity points will really only be in the kettle.

At the beginning of the boil this means that the specific gravity should really be

469/7.39=63.5ppg or 1.063/5 specific gravity.

So, when your boil begins, your specific gravity should be around 1.063/5 assuming you have 7.39 gal VIK.

PP
Calcs to Confuse, yep! I thought in Section M, the estimated specific gravity was a range of values, i.e. 1.065/3 meant it could be a 1.063, a 1.064 or a 1.065.
Last edited by Mad_Scientist on 02 Apr 2013, 07:48, edited 7 times in total.
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Post #1193 made 12 years ago
by PistolPatch
Thanks for posting your actuals mtate. I'd like to spend a bit of time on a 'good brain' looking at them and replying to that post but am again stuck for time for several days at least.

I also read the word 'ball-valve' - twice :o. It's very important to know what you are getting into with these things. If possible, can you do a bit of a search of my posts that contain the word/s, 'ball-valve' 'tap' 'faucet' 'nostril' '1,500 litres' or 'leak' . If you find any good posts on this can you PM a link to me or post it here so as I can bool-mark it?

:peace:
PP
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Post #1195 made 12 years ago
by Montanashawn
I am getting ready to do my first all grain brew, and this is a recipe for a clone of an IPA that I like. Bells two-hearted. It is yummy. I have been doing as much reading as possible, and it is just about time to get started. My kettle is 20 gallons. The diameter is 19". The pot is 17" tall. I have several carboys that hold 6 gallons. I would like to brew up 10 gallons. Any suggestions would be great, particularly in regards to h20 volume. Thanks for any help you can offer!



Recipe Type: All Grain
Yeast: SafAle English Ale (DCL Yeast #S-04)
Yeast Starter: none
Batch Size (Gallons): 5.5
Original Gravity: 1.055
Final Gravity: 1.014
IBU: 52.6
Boiling Time (Minutes): 60
Color: 5.6
Primary Fermentation (# of Days & Temp): at least 4 weeks at 65 F
Tasting Notes: Extremely drinkable. This clone is as perfect as I can tell.

The actual gravity for this beer is 1.064
The FG is 1.010
Yeast is taken from a bottle of Bells Amber (their Pale Ale also works)

10 lbs Pale Malt (2 Row) US (2.0 SRM) Grain 76.92 %
2 lbs Vienna Malt (3.5 SRM) Grain 15.38 %
8.0 oz Cara-Pils/Dextrine (2.0 SRM) Grain 3.85 %
8.0 oz Caramel/Crystal Malt - 20L (20.0 SRM) Grain 3.85 %

*mash at 150 F

1.00 oz Centennial [9.50 %] (60 min) Hops 30.3 IBU
0.50 oz Centennial [9.50 %] (Dry Hop 5 days) Hops -
1.00 oz Centennial [9.50 %] (15 min) Hops 15.0 IBU
1.00 oz Centennial [9.50 %] (5 min) Hops 6.0 IBU
1.00 oz Centennial [9.50 %] (1 min) Hops 1.3 IBU

7% ABV

This beer is so damn close to the original. If you let it wait at least 2 months in the bottle/keg it'll clear up EXACTLY like the original. I had SWMBO mix the glasses up and I couldn't pick my clone out between two Two Hearted Glasses and one Clone. This is the best clone I've made and possibly the best IPA I've made.

I Need Help!

Post #1196 made 12 years ago
by Addled Jim
Help

Hi,
I'm planning to have my first go at BIAB this weekend, everything is ready and tested and ingredients purchased. I'm attempting an English Pale Ale recipe I copied from the M&S Ultimate Homebrew Book I received this Christmas - Could someone have look over it for me please?
I've attached a copy I input into the BIABacus, filling in as much as I dared/knew - hopefully not made a complete hash of it?!!
I have changed the strike water default to 0.4 as I read that was correct for thin walled boilers - this one is a 40ltr Buffalo, I intend to wrap the boiler up in old coats/sleeping bags during the mash?

Cheers, James

ps Please be gentle! :pray:
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Last edited by Addled Jim on 06 Apr 2013, 02:19, edited 5 times in total.

Post #1197 made 12 years ago
by Mad_Scientist
Montanashawn, It looks like you slipped past registration, "My First Post ...". We are using this thread for the BIABacus spreadsheet, found over here; http://biabrewer.info/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=1869#p25993
Use the latest version, PR1.3
Fill out what you know, i.e. your kettle size, grain, OG, volume, etc. in Sections A - D., posted it up and we'll take a look at it and help, if needed.
~richard
    • SVA Brewer With Over 100 Brews From United States of America

Post #1198 made 12 years ago
by Mad_Scientist
Addled Jim wrote:Help

Hi,
I'm planning to have my first go at BIAB this weekend, everything is ready and tested and ingredients purchased. I'm attempting an English Pale Ale recipe I copied from the M&S Ultimate Homebrew Book I received this Christmas - Could someone have look over it for me please?
I've attached a copy I input into the BIABacus, filling in as much as I dared/knew - hopefully not made a complete hash of it?!!
I have changed the strike water default to 0.4 as I read that was correct for thin walled boilers - this one is a 40ltr Buffalo, I intend to wrap the boiler up in old coats/sleeping bags during the mash?

Cheers, James

ps Please be gentle! :pray:
Hello James, Welcome to the BIABrewer forum. James, we are using the latest BIABacus version PR1.3, would you re-post your file using this one; viewtopic.php?f=10&t=1869#p25993, so we all can be on the same page? We need to be careful in scaling a recipe from a book or the internet. Would you provide more information on the recipe, per what the language says in the book about the final volume it makes? The total grain bill of the source recipe doesn't look to be enough per the final EOBV-A. So, we'll probably need more information on the source recipe.

That was a good catch on setting the adjustment factor to .4 for your buffalo...
~richard
Last edited by Mad_Scientist on 06 Apr 2013, 02:46, edited 7 times in total.
    • SVA Brewer With Over 100 Brews From United States of America

Post #1199 made 12 years ago
by Mad_Scientist
Addled Jim posted over here "BIABacus Pre-Release - Your First Impressions" the recipe from the book, is that right James? Is this the complete recipe?
Addled Jim wrote:
Original Recipe
OG 1049
Water 23 Litres/5 Gallons/6 Gallons US
Grain - 90 Min Mash
Pale Malt 3.6 kg
Carapils 226g
Caramunich 226g

Boil 60 mins -
Hops
Northern Brewer 31g 60 mins
Fuggles 17g 15 mins
Goldings 11g 10 mins
Protofloc 1tsp 15 mins

Yeast s-04

target FG 1013
Target ABV 4.6%

There were no AA ratings for hops, I took those off the packets
Last edited by Mad_Scientist on 06 Apr 2013, 03:20, edited 7 times in total.
    • SVA Brewer With Over 100 Brews From United States of America

Post #1200 made 12 years ago
by Mad_Scientist
Addled Jim, been looking at your recipe a bit, it looks good the way I have it scaled up. Would you like to bump up the scaling to fit more closely into the "8C. Extra Special/Strong Bitter (English Pale Ale)" style? ; http://www.bjcp.org/2008styles/style08.php You have room in your buffalo to go bigger. :drink:

Post up your PR1.3 version and we'll get it finalized, okay? It looks like it means 6 gal. EOBV-A and 5 gal. VIF but the grain bill is not big enough to match these figures. Before posting up your new file, please double-check the weights of grain and hops used in the original recipe as something isn't right there.
    • SVA Brewer With Over 100 Brews From United States of America
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