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Post #276 made 14 years ago
by Michaelvw
Ralph wrote:Hi Michaelvw and welcome to BIABrewer!
With all- grain brewing there are several distinct and important steps involved, however in this whole process often some folks will talk about terms such as 'batch size', 'brew length', 'volume' etc as though they're interchangeable and referring to the same thing. Sadly, they're not!
Brew Length is what we can expect to consume at the end of the whole process. We will lose some of the volume which went in to the fermenter originally- none of us are willing (I hope!) to actually drink the litre or so of yeasty debris that settles at the bottom of the fermenter, so there's a factor in the Calculator to account for that. That's why there is a difference between the Brew Length and Volume into Fermenter, the Comment column should explain them well enough, brief though it is for some. With the Calculator, Brew Length is the basis from which many other factors are calculated, hence it is important to accurately distinguish what it is.
Hope this helps, let us know if you have any questions!
Thanks for your explanation... along with every one else by the way. I'm almost ready to pull off this APA using the BIAB method. Just finishing my immersion cooler - got my pot, gas burner sorted too. My recipe incorporates dry hopping 50gm US Cascade hops. I'm not familiar with this and was wondering if it is ok to put the hop pellets in directly at the end of the primary fermentation and then leave for a fortnight (in primary fermenter)? I haven't got a secondary to rack to at this stage. Or is it better to rack to a secondary to get off the trub and condition along with the hops for that 2 week period?
Last edited by Michaelvw on 26 May 2011, 15:26, edited 9 times in total.

Post #277 made 14 years ago
by BobBrews
Michaelvw,

I dry hop in the primary frequently (so it must be correct) Ha Ha. Anyway, you are only extracting the essence of the hop into the beer. The dry hops can be added as soon as a week and left in the primary for another week or so! Don't dry hop until the fermentation has completed. The bubbling will drive off the volatiles and that is what your after!

Actually the secondary is fading from use. In the olden days (two years ago). It was customary to leave the beer in the primary for a week and then transfer to a secondary for another week or two? In the secondary you added dry hops, fruit or spices?

Tests have shown that leaving the beer in the primary for up to three weeks has no ill effect? In fact people seem to prefer the beer left in the primary longer! So the need for the secondary with it's chance of infecting the beer or at least complicating the process is unnecessary.

Having said that. I reuse my yeast cake. So I must take that into consideration when adding dry hops to a primary and then reusing it! If I am making the same beer I don't worry about the dry hops in the new beer fermenting in my reused bucket. If I am brewing a very hoppy beer and dry hopping twice (a week apart) I would probably dump the yeast cake (maybe?) I don't know? cheap bastard that I am!
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Post #278 made 14 years ago
by PistolPatch
Nice post Bob and a great question Michael.

Brad writes a nice article on this issue here.

Like Bob, I think racking to a secondary is an unnecessary and also risky business in most situations*. Even the best lager brewers I know do not rack so be confident if you make a decision not to.

Cheers,
PP

*There are exceptions to the rule but the majority of brewers and/or brews escape these exceptions.
Last edited by PistolPatch on 26 May 2011, 22:55, edited 9 times in total.
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Post #279 made 14 years ago
by Michaelvw
Thanks Bob & PP... I read that article PP from BeerSmith and he mentions 'dry hops to the secondary maximizes the exposure without risking volatile aromas.' What are the volatile aromas he's speaking of?

I'm keen to K.I.S.S. & not any of you!! - that's why BIAB seems the way to go. If I don't have to rack to secondary then cool. I'm quite happy to leave that liquid gold settle and then bottle.

I've left my porter about 3 weeks from pitching to bottling in the primary fermenter and haven't noticed any degrading. BUT I haven't dry hopped yet, which is another matter, which I will be doing with the APA.

Post #280 made 14 years ago
by BobBrews
Michaelvw wrote:Thanks Bob & PP... I read that article PP from BeerSmith and he mentions 'dry hops to the secondary maximizes the exposure without risking volatile aromas.' What are the volatile aromas he's speaking of?
The second you open a new bag of hops take a whiff that is the volatile aromas escaping to the air. Those are the most volatile. The second most will boil off in minutes after pitching them into the boiling wert. I would guess it is like a distillery that separates different fuels at different levels.

When you put your initial hops in at 60 minuets (bittering hops) Those hops lose all their volatiles. All that is left is the bitter taste that balances the sweet malt. Some hops are better for bittering and some are better for aroma Some can do both.

So in a Amarillo ale you may use a particular hop for bittering and Amarillo for late hopping and dry hopping. The timing is important to the particular recipe. I like to use a single hop for everything (if it's appropriate) like a all Amarillo ale or a all Chinook ale. It's a good way to learn how aroma hops taste. Bittering hops probably aren't the best for this type of beer but who knows?

Hops are fun to grow and are neat as a ornamental. I dump fresh picked hops in some beers for a "Wet hopped beer" It's a little grassy but that is the style. Hey, I grew it and I brew it! Cheers
Last edited by BobBrews on 27 May 2011, 05:03, edited 9 times in total.
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Post #281 made 14 years ago
by Michaelvw
Awesome Bob... so I could dry hop twice to cover bases, once after fermentation (still CO2 in suspension bubbling away) and then the other half a week later to be sure - then sit till 3 weeks in total are up(using US Cascade throughout - 50gm 60min, 50gm 10min, 50gm flameout, 100gm dry hopped - original recipe which is then scaled up for BIAB).

Post #282 made 14 years ago
by BobBrews
Michaelvw,

You can do it anyway you like! Keep good notes. You won't remember a darn thing if your anything like me! If this comes out a little hoppy you can adjust next time. Brewing beer is a crapshoot for me. I vary the ingredients and timing enough so that I have a problem recreating a good beer. I guess my notes should be better!
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Post #284 made 14 years ago
by Michaelvw
We are on rain tank water and was wondering what likely adjustments would need to be made to the mash pH (if anyone has experience with this)?

I haven't worried about mash pH till this point as have been experimenting but now think it's time to look into it.

With rainwater, i'd imagine there's little mineral content so any pH adjustment may skew mineral composition quite a bit? What can be done about this?
Also, does anyone know the impact of not adjusting the pH for a hoppy pale ale??

Post #285 made 14 years ago
by BobBrews
Michaelvw,
From what I have read I have the feeling that the "Normal" pH is plenty good for brewing. For 90% of us we have know need to worry about pH. There are a few Radio shows on the web that deal with the subject for those who just want to understand it. Here is a link.

Home brewer Kai Troester begins a two-part discussion on pH in brewing by starting with the basics.
http://www.basicbrewing.com/index.php?page=radio

The show is on this page on the Basic Brewing web site.
Last edited by BobBrews on 28 May 2011, 19:54, edited 9 times in total.
tap 1 Raspberry wine
tap 2 Bourbon Barrel Porter
tap 3 Czech Pilsner
tap 4 Triple IPA 11% ABV
Pipeline: Mulled Cider 10% ABV

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Post #286 made 14 years ago
by Michaelvw
BobBrews wrote:Michaelvw,
From what I have read I have the feeling that the "Normal" pH is plenty good for brewing. For 90% of us we have know need to worry about pH. There are a few Radio shows on the web that deal with the subject for those who just want to understand it. Here is a link.

Home brewer Kai Troester begins a two-part discussion on pH in brewing by starting with the basics.
http://www.basicbrewing.com/index.php?page=radio

The show is on this page on the Basic Brewing web site.
Thanks for your input and reply. You know I kinda figure that but my water is equivalent to distilled water and therefore has no to minimal mineral content.

From what I've read, yeast need calcium & magnesium as part of their healthy fermentation process - also that, depending on the brew style, this inpact on either the hop bitterness or the malt sweetness.

I guess, I'm wondering if the last couple of brews that I've done which haven't completed to FG may have been a result of mineral dificencies. I know the temperature is fine as I use a immersion heater to provide stable fermentation temperatures.

Added to this, the fact that BIAB is dealing witht he whole water volume at start versus a traditional method that has a much lower water to grain ratio.

Just looking at options & possibilities.
Last edited by Michaelvw on 29 May 2011, 06:35, edited 9 times in total.

Post #287 made 14 years ago
by BobBrews
Michaelvw wrote:
BobBrews wrote:Michaelvw,

From what I've read, yeast need calcium & magnesium as part of their healthy fermentation process.
I have heard and have stated before that in a pinch you can use a half of a all-day vitamin to bring questionable water up to snuff! It has zinc, magnesium, calcium and other trace elements. I don't know for sure, but if it is on the web "It has to be true" Ha Ha Ha! It seems to me that some of these one a day type pills stink from vitamin B or something? I doubt if it effects the beer? I have to go now brewing a Oatmeal Stout this morning while doing a rummage sale! Good luck to me!
Last edited by BobBrews on 29 May 2011, 21:27, edited 9 times in total.
tap 1 Raspberry wine
tap 2 Bourbon Barrel Porter
tap 3 Czech Pilsner
tap 4 Triple IPA 11% ABV
Pipeline: Mulled Cider 10% ABV

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Post #288 made 14 years ago
by stux
Fortified Beer :)
Fermenting: -
Cubed: -
Stirplate: -
On Tap: NS Summer Ale III (WY1272), Landlord III (WY1469), Fighter's 70/- II (WY1272), Roast Porter (WY1028), Cider, Soda
Next: Munich Helles III

5/7/12

Post #289 made 14 years ago
by the_mc
the_mc wrote:
BrickBrewHaus wrote:
the_mc wrote:
PistolPatch wrote:Okay, finally had a chance to check all this out. Yeasty, your spreadsheet is correct :champ:

I have made a couple of small changes but nothing worth mentioning (mainly upped the efficiency to 79%.) Here it is...
The Calculator-MC Black IPA.xlsx
Couple of points...

1. Hopville - By batch size, Hopville means the end of boil volume. So, mc, if you want to get 23 litres into the fermenter, you will have to raise your grain bill to about 8,625 grams. This is nothing to do with BIAB though. If you brewed this recipe with three vessels, you would have to do exactly the same thing. (If you do want to do this, change the Brew Length on the spreadsheet to 21.3 litres.)

2. IBU's - Don't worry about the difference in IBU's. Just use the weights as seen on the hop bill page. (For the reasoning on this, you will have to go back a few pages on this thread and read my long-winded posts :). Basically, all programs use different formulas so it is rare to see any agreement.)

3. Brew Length - This is one of the few industry terms which is well defined and hasn't been abused. It is how much beer you want to get into your kegs or bottles. I am not sure why the word length is used sorry, but the term has been around for hundreds of years.

Hope the above makes some sense mc and good on you for getting stuck into the figures etc - looks like you are getting the hang of it. And, thanks a heap Yeasty for doing the spreadsheet.

:salute: guys,
PP

Hi Guys, I finally got around to brewing this beer on the weekend. The brew day went fine but some of the final numbers came out different than expected. I used the attached sheet. As you can see I was supposed to end up with an OG of 1.074 and brew length of 16.5 litre's.

What I did end up with was 1.066 OG and 18.5 ltr's?? The sweet wort tasted good so I think the final product will be OK but I want to figue out how I was so far off on the numbers....
Looks like it was simply a case of a lower evaporation rate than expected. Nothing to fret about. Just calculate your actual boil-off rate for this beer and adjust for it next time. Understand, though, that your evaporation rate will change depending on the conditions that day. Higher humidity will decrease evaporation, wind (if applicable) will probably increase it, more vigorous boil will increase it, etc.

Well done :clap:
Thanks BrickBrewHaus I am in Toronto so it was humid and windy yesterday:) go figure. I will have to do a couple tests to get the boil rate...not that I am complaining that I ended up with more beer ;)
Finally tried the finished product. It turned out great! It was delicious but I would say it was a bit closer to a bitter robust porter then a Black IPA. Very smooth and very drinkable. Thanks for all the help
Last edited by the_mc on 02 Jun 2011, 02:34, edited 9 times in total.

Post #290 made 14 years ago
by Elbow
Hi All,

Here the recipe I'm going for:

Style American Brown
Method All Grain
Original Gravity 1.059
Final Gravity 1.015
Alcohol Content 5.72%
Efficiency 70%
Total IBU (Bitterness) 42.6
EBC (colour) 35

25 litre batch
5.5 kg JWM Traditional Ale Malt
0.5 kg JWM Caramalt
0.5 kg JWM Wheat Malt
0.2 kg JWM Chocolate Malt
0.6 kg Dingemans Special B
28 g Northern Brewer (Pellets, 9.0 AA%, 60 mins)
18 g Northern Brewer (Pellets, 9.0 AA%, 15 mins)
25 g Cascade (Pellets, 7.8 AA%, 10 mins)
57 g Centennial (Pellets, 6.0 AA%, 0 mins)
25 g Cascade (Pellets, 7.8 AA%, 0 mins)
1 ml Wyeast Labs 1056 - American Ale

I have a 44 cm pot, this is a no chiller and I have discovered that I can't get hold of most of the hops listed instead I have:

28.0 g Horizon Pellet (9.1% Alpha) @ 60 Minutes (Boil) (1.1 g/L)
18.0 g Horizon Pellet (9.1% Alpha) @ 15 Minutes (Boil) (0.7 g/L)
20.0 g Cascade Leaf (7.6% Alpha) @ 10 Minutes (Boil) (0.8 g/L)
25.0 g Amarillo Pellet (8.6% Alpha) @ 0 Minutes (Aroma) (1 g/L)

How does that look?

Post #291 made 14 years ago
by PistolPatch
Hi there Elbow and welcome to the forum.

Sorry no one has got to your question yet. I'm a little unsure if you want advice on how the recipe will taste or what water volumes etc you need to start with. Either way, the question is easier to answer if you have a read of the second post of this thread and then maybe come back here with...

1. The software used to produce the above report - This helps on IBU's.
2. More information on 'batch size'. Do you think the recipe means 'end of boil volume' or 'volume into fermenter'?

We can work these things out most of the time but it is far quicker with the above info if possible.

Also, if you're up for it, though we wouldn't expect a new member to do this, try putting the recipe into The Calculator and posting your attempt up here as this will also speed up the time it takes to answer your question.

Sorry to ask you to do so much on your second post to the forum but recipe conversion can be hard work!

Cheers,
PP
Last edited by PistolPatch on 11 Jun 2011, 09:56, edited 9 times in total.
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Post #292 made 14 years ago
by StubbsPKS
Hey all, I am going to give the All Amarillo APA a shot for my first AG and my first BIAB.

The recipe is from this forum and it is as follows:
OVERVIEW
Style: American Pale Ale
Name: NRB's All Amarillo American Pale Ale
Yeast: US-56 (US-05)
Fermentation Temperature: 18 C
Original Gravity: 1.058
Total IBU's: 31.0
Colour (EBC): 24.6
Efficiency at End of Boil: 81%
Mash Length (mins): 90
Boil Length (mins): 90
Your Vessel Type (Pot/Keggle/Urn): Pot
Source/Credits: Original recipe can be found here
Notes/Instructions/Comments: A very popular and robust recipe. Amounts can be varied greatly whilst still getting a great beer.

Volumes etc.

Your Vessel Volume (L or gal): 70 L
Your Vessel Diameter (cm or in): 45 cm
Water Required (L or gal): 41 L
Mash Temperature (C or F): 65 C
Volume at End of Boil (L or gal): 26.8 L
Volume into Fermenter (L or gal): 23 L
Brew Length (L or gal): 21.3 L
Total Grain Bill (g or oz): 6260 g

Grains - Colours - Percentages and/or Weight (g or oz)

Grain 1: Pale Ale Malt (Any type) - 3.6 EBC - 76.9% or 4,814 g
Grain 2: Munich 1 - 17.6 EBC - 15.4% or 964 g
Grain 3: CaraAmber - 94.2 EBC - 7.8% or 488 g

Hops - AA% - IBUs - Weight (g or oz) at Minutes

Hop 1: US Amarillo - 8.9AA% - 30 IBUs - 30 g at 60 min
Hop 2: US Amarillo - 8.9AA% - 9 IBUs - 26 g at 20 min
Hop 3: US Amarillo - 8.9AA% - 4 IBUs - 21 g at 5 min

Adjuncts/Minerals/Finings etc

Adjunct: 1 teaspoon yeast nutrient at 10 min.
Mineral:
Finings: 1/2 tablet of Whirfloc at 10 min.
A couple of changes to note:
  • I want the OG to be around 1.045 rather than 1.058.
    I have a 35cm (32 lt) pot.
    I have a 25 lt FV.
    Using US-05 for my yeast.
    I was hoping for 23 lt into the fermenter.
I have been fiddling around with the calculator, but I'm still confused and can't seem to get my volume down to below 32 lt without making much less than 23 lt.

If it simply can't be done (probably won't be doing Maxi-BIAB for this one), then I guess I will just have to settle for less beer :o

Thanks in advance!
Last edited by StubbsPKS on 11 Jun 2011, 20:31, edited 9 times in total.

Post #293 made 14 years ago
by PistolPatch
Hi there Stubbs and welcome aboard :peace:

What I've done below is attached The Calculator NRB APA file with the following adjustements...

1. Changed End of Boil Gravity to 1.045
2. Changed Diameter of Kettle to 35
3. Dropped End of Boil Efficiency by 5% because...

The only way you will get 23 L into the fermenter is by doing some Maxi-BIAB techniques such as holding back some water and adding it after you have pulled the bag and after the boil. Many other ways exist but these are simple.

The only other alternative is as you say to aim at a lower final volume.

One thing The Calculator won't do (or any other software) is adjust the hop bill to balance a change made in the original gravity. You have made a change here to the gravity so I would ignore the scaled hop weights given on the 'Hop Sheet' of The Calculator.

I usually brew this recipe at a lower gravity and it turns out beautifully. Use hop additions of 25 g, 22 g and 18 g. (I've written these in Cells M8 to M10 of the 'Hop Bill' sheet.) This will keep everything in balance.

Let us know if this makes sense.

Cheers,
PP
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Post #294 made 14 years ago
by StubbsPKS
PistolPatch wrote:Hi there Stubbs and welcome aboard :peace:

What I've done below is attached The Calculator NRB APA file with the following adjustements...

1. Changed End of Boil Gravity to 1.045
2. Changed Diameter of Kettle to 35
3. Dropped End of Boil Efficiency by 5% because...

The only way you will get 23 L into the fermenter is by doing some Maxi-BIAB techniques such as holding back some water and adding it after you have pulled the bag and after the boil. Many other ways exist but these are simple.

The only other alternative is as you say to aim at a lower final volume.

One thing The Calculator won't do (or any other software) is adjust the hop bill to balance a change made in the original gravity. You have made a change here to the gravity so I would ignore the scaled hop weights given on the 'Hop Sheet' of The Calculator.

I usually brew this recipe at a lower gravity and it turns out beautifully. Use hop additions of 25 g, 22 g and 18 g. (I've written these in Cells M8 to M10 of the 'Hop Bill' sheet.) This will keep everything in balance.

Let us know if this makes sense.

Cheers,
PP
Brilliant and lightning quick to boot :) Thanks so much PP!

Just two questions left:
  • 1. It is saying I will need 36.27 lts of water. Now, I obviously can't fit all that into my 32 lt pot. Will I be able to simply top up with the remainder and it should work out fine?
    2. How did you get the numbers for the hops additions? Is it by formula, or just by experience since you've brewed this particular beer to a lower strength before?
Last edited by StubbsPKS on 11 Jun 2011, 21:52, edited 9 times in total.

Post #295 made 14 years ago
by PistolPatch
Sorry, stubbs, I forgot to explain that you should hold back maybe 12 L of water. Maybe then add 6 L after mash out and then another 6 L at the end of the boil to keep things simple.

You could also drop the boil length to 60 minutes on this recipe without certainly any flavour risk.

The numbers for hop additions I checked on BeerSmith2 as this recipe is a sample recipe in there. What I was looking at was a thing called the 'Bitterness Ratio' which is the ratio of IBU's to the starting gravity. The numbers that came up match with what I personally brew so all should be good.

:thumbs:
PP
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Post #296 made 14 years ago
by StubbsPKS
PistolPatch wrote:Sorry, stubbs, I forgot to explain that you should hold back maybe 12 L of water. Maybe then add 6 L after mash out and then another 6 L at the end of the boil to keep things simple.

You could also drop the boil length to 60 minutes on this recipe without certainly any flavour risk.

The numbers for hop additions I checked on BeerSmith2 as this recipe is a sample recipe in there. What I was looking at was a thing called the 'Bitterness Ratio' which is the ratio of IBU's to the starting gravity. The numbers that came up match with what I personally brew so all should be good.

:thumbs:
PP
Nice nice. I'm planning to get some brewing software soon. I just moved flat and my computer with internet is in the old flat until the 15th, so I'm waiting until then and reading up on the different options so I know which I want on the day :)

Glad to hear that I can reduce my boil time as well. Everyone I know that brews usually uses a 60 minute boil time. The one person I know who used to do 90 was speaking with some pro crafter brewers and they asked him WHY he does 90 minutes. When he had no answer they basically told him that if he has no reason to do 90, he should be able to stick with 60 in most cases :)

Thank SO much PP, you've been a great help for my first AG ever! I'll make sure to get a brewday post up tomorrow with pics!
Last edited by StubbsPKS on 11 Jun 2011, 23:11, edited 9 times in total.

Post #297 made 14 years ago
by PistolPatch
Thanks for the thanks Stubbs - I appreciate it :salute:

Don't rush into the software. Take your time with The Calculator. This site has had guys like stux and ianh working hard on the maths and at improving them. stux has managed to get the maths matching BeerSmith2 so I know this site will concentrate on teaching people how to use The Calculator/s and BeerSmith2 correctly and have a good list of sample recipes. Being able to master the spreadsheet/s and then BeerSmith2 will serve you well - you'll know the fastest tool to use in varying circumstances.

The 90 minute boil removes some risk with certain waters/grains of things such as haze. It's nothing to really worry about but if you ever get problems with your brewing, go back to a 90 minute boil and see if this improves things.

Didn't realise you were brewing tomorrow :o

:luck: :peace:
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Post #298 made 14 years ago
by deebo
Not so much a conversion, but hoping to have some opinions on the following recipe I have made. I am brewing in a 40L Birko urn (35cm diameter).
Hoping to get about 21 Litres into fermenter, but 23 litres would also be ok.

Recipe: Sauvin Lager (First BIAB)
Brewer: Deebo
Asst Brewer:
Style: Premium American Lager
TYPE: All Grain
Taste: (35.0)

Recipe Specifications
--------------------------
Batch Size (fermenter): 21.00 l
Boil Size: 32.42 l
Bottling Volume: 19.60 l
Estimated OG: 1.050 SG
Estimated Color: 6.8 EBC
Estimated IBU: 23.1 IBUs
Brewhouse Efficiency: 65.00 %
Boil Time: 90 Minutes

Ingredients:
------------
Amt Name Type # %/IBU
5.00 kg Pilsner, Malt Craft Export (Joe White) ( Grain 2 95.2 %
0.25 kg Carafoam (Weyermann) (3.9 EBC) Grain 3 4.8 %
15.00 g Nelson Sauvin [12.00 %] - Boil 30.0 min Hop 4 16.2 IBUs
10.00 g Nelson Sauvin [12.00 %] - Boil 15.0 min Hop 6 7.0 IBUs
10.00 g Nelson Sauvin [12.00 %] - Boil 0.0 min Hop 7 0.0 IBUs
0.50 Items Whirlfloc Tablet (Boil 15.0 mins) Fining 5 -
5.00 g Gelatin (Primary 24.0 hours) Fining 9 -
0.50 tsp Gypsum (Calcium Sulfate) (Mash 60.0 mins Water Agent 1 -
2.0 pkg German Lager (DCL Yeast #W-34/70) [50.00 Yeast 8 -


Mash Schedule: BIAB, Medium Body
Total Grain Weight: 5.25 kg
----------------------------
Name Description Step Temperat Step Time
Saccharification Add 35.63 l of water and heat to 66.7 C o 66.7 C 75 min
Mash Out Add 0.00 l of water and heat to 75.6 C ov 75.6 C 10 min

Post #299 made 14 years ago
by Nuff
deebo wrote:Not so much a conversion, but hoping to have some opinions on the following recipe...
Maybe do a separate thread on this one deebo called, "Premium American Lager Recipe"

Cheers
Nuff
Last edited by Nuff on 12 Jun 2011, 20:51, edited 9 times in total.

Post #300 made 14 years ago
by chefeffect
Ok I have this Recipe from John Palmers How to brew book from 2006 as the one on the web has changed:

All Grain:
5 gallon batch or 19 lt but its more like 18.92lt at end of boil

10 lbs or 4.5kg British pale ale malt
0.5 lbs or .227gm Crystal 20L
0.5 lbs or .227gm Munich Malt

Hops:
1oz (28gm) Nugget (12%) 60 mins 40 IBU's
2oz (57gm) EK Goldings (5%) 15 mins 16 IBU's
1oz (28gm) EK Goldings (5%) 5 mins 3 IBU's

Yeast:
White Labs P013 Londale ale 2 weeks primary

Conversion 152F (67deg) 60 mins

This is what I have got from the calculator can someone check I have converted everything correctly

A. MEASUREMENT Units
Brew Length 21.30 lts
Fermenter Trub* 1.70 lts
Volume into Fermenter 23.00 lts
Kettle Trub & Buffer* 3.83 lts
End of Boil Efficiency* 75.00 %
End of Boil Gravity (OG) 1.062 Deg.
End of Boil Volume 26.84 lts
Boil Length 90 min
Diameter of Kettle 38.10 cms (Keggle)
Evaporation Per Hour* 4.88 lts/hr
Evaporation for this Brew 7.32 lts
Expected Start of Boil Gravity 1.049 Deg.
Start of Boil Volume 34.16 lts
Grain Bill Required 7227 grams
Grain Absorption* 4.54 lts
Water Required is... 38.70 lts
Approximate Mash Volume 43.47 lts
[left]Original Recipe
Grain Name Percent OR Weight (g)
Grain Bill Required 100 OR 4.954
Grain 1 OR 4.5
Grain 2 OR 0.227
Grain 3 OR 0.227

Scaled Recipe
Total Grain bill Weight: 7227gm
Grain 1 6564g Im using British Pale ale malt
Grain 2 331g Im using Carahell (due to being unable to find recipe grain)
grain 3 331gm Im using Munich 1

Recipe Gravities
Pre-Boil Original Average
1.049 1.062 1.055
Original Recipe Scaled Recipe

End of Boil Volume (lts): 23.3 End of Boil Volume (lts): 26.84

Time
60Min Amarillo 57.5gm 8.5 aa% = 40.0 IBU
15Min Galaxy 32.8gm 12.0 aa% = 16.0 IBU
5Min Galaxy 15.3gm 12.0 aa% = 3.0 IBU[/left]

I am using Amarillo for the 60 mins and Galaxy for the 15min and 5 min under another brewers advice saying Galaxy probably isnt really good for 60 min Boil?? but It would be closer to the original hops for the 60 min boil due to the nuggets being AA 12%??

I have done this recipe allready for my first crack and the way I converted the recipe did not come out as expected, I used Wyeast Activator 125ml Whitbread Ale 1099 for the first bacth which I am going to bottle today, should I harvest the yeast for the above recipe, or pour the wort on the old yeast cake, or just use safale s-04 or safale us-05 which I allready have? The reason I ask about the harvesting is because I have read that a highly hoped beer can mutate the yeast? maybe I'm trying to be to technical?

Edit: Just cleaned the post up a bit.
Last edited by chefeffect on 23 Jun 2011, 09:46, edited 9 times in total.
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