Questions on keg conversion...

Post #1 made 15 years ago
I am an extract brewer and want to try BIAB.
I am also in the process of converting a keg to a brewing vessel. I've cut and cleaned it up and am ready to install whatever I should...
I have been brewing in a Polar Ware 10g kettle w/ a therm and ball valve installed.
My question is this- I know I can transfer the SS ball valve to the keg, but should I move the thermometer as well? It seems most folks here use floating or inserted thermometers.
Does the thermowell interfere with the bag? Not recommended?
Also, if doing BIAB, do I need to install a dip tube?

Thanks all, great forum.

Post #2 made 15 years ago
Hi ya Ben and welcome to the forum :peace:

My advice would be not to attach a ball-valve or thermometer to your kettle for now. This is not because you are going BIAB but more because holes/taps in your kettle often cause more problems than convenience. I have strong opinions on this as I have just found by searching posts made by me with the words, "kettle" and "ball-valve." :lol:

Wading through these posts might be educational or boring. I'm not sure :drink:.

In my situation, changing from a syphon to a kettle tap/ball-valve was a mistake.

I also seem to have very strong opinions on thermometers by the look of my posts on this subject :roll:.

But, I do stand by those posts.

We need to do a bit more work on syphons to make them convenient. One of our members (wizard78) is working on this.

On thermometers, mash brewers need to be very careful and I'm sure you won't have to scroll through too many of my posts to see why.

If you do choose to drill for your probe thermometer, then, if it has the sharp pointy end, you will need to make a cage for it. Personally, I'd sell it on Ebay :lol:.

I'm not too sure of your 'dip tube' question ben? A quick answer would be, "No," because BIAB really just needs a kettle, a bag, a good thermometer and a syphon (or tap!)

:peace:
PP
Last edited by PistolPatch on 11 Mar 2011, 22:21, edited 5 times in total.
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Post #3 made 15 years ago
Thanks for the quick reply.
I understand the reasoning behind your postion on both the therm and the tap, and I can see that I will probably not add the therm to the new keggle, but when I weigh the disadvantages of the tap install against the advantages...well, that ones not as clear to me.

If the plastic ones are inadequate and the SS one is only in the prototype stages, wouldn't a clean 1/2" SS ball valve to a plate chiller to your fermenter be a good option? Doesn't it take at least as much time to sanitize a plastic or SS siphon as it does to insure a ball valve is clean?
If the main problem is sanitation, I have no problem with that.
She'll be clean ;)
Please know that I'm not trying to be argumentative and I do appreciate your response. :peace:

Post #4 made 15 years ago
Be aware that there is dead space in a ball valve where wort nasties can hide brew to brew, bu as long as you clean it properly there is no problem with a tap

I use a stainless steel jiggle siphon and heavy duty silicon 1/2" tubing
Fermenting: -
Cubed: -
Stirplate: -
On Tap: NS Summer Ale III (WY1272), Landlord III (WY1469), Fighter's 70/- II (WY1272), Roast Porter (WY1028), Cider, Soda
Next: Munich Helles III

5/7/12

Post #5 made 15 years ago
Hi there Ben,

No need to apologise for your post - it makes perfect sense.

The plastic auto-syphons work fine for chilled wort but will bend if you used them in a no-chill situation where you are transferring hot wort. wizard78 is working on a stainless steel version to solve this problem and improve the ease of a syphon's use.

Auto-syphons are very easy to clean and sanitise. They only consist of two sections which slide apart.

The problem with ball-valves is the dead space that stux mentioned above. Most people think that when you close a ball-valve, there is no liquid left in the valve. There is and this part of the valve with most set-ups will not reach boiling point. One brewer lost 1,500 litres of beer before finding this problem.

I think if you do use a ball-valve, you should pull it apart completely after say every 5 brews. I also think that before every brew, you should attach a hose to the valve and then put the other end of the hose in your nostril and 'smell' while opening and closing the valve several times. If it smells strange at all, you should pull the tap apart completely before brewing.

Some people never do the above and never get a problem but I think it is best to stay on the safe side and do the above.

Cheers Ben,
PP
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Post #6 made 15 years ago
Australia's selection of siphons is rather poor currently. I have used most of them (as I did not want to cut or drill my stainless kettle) and have binned all of them.

All my current siphons are stainless steel, cost about $13 a piece, have no moving parts that break, and are activated by my blowing into a tube with a hepa filter disc on them (demi/carboy use), and come fully kitted out with included flexible tubing, hose clamp, tubing flow stop/clamp, hepa filter, etc, and they can also fit around demijohns and carboys air tight as well as they include all the rubber caps that fit. Full flexibility in use.

The only problem is you need a friend from the USA to bring you one or a suitcase full. My local club (Canberra Brewers) were not clued in to give a damn about a bulk buy at the time so I went on my own. I'm a happy little Vegemite now but I do feel for everyone else when reading about all the problems with the current Australian offerings for siphons.

I can go back through my old order links when I was originally trying to organise a bulk buy if anyone is interested, just be aware that you need to organise it in bulk as small item shipping costs are prohibitive with the new USPO international postage rates.

Cheers,
Brewer Pete

Post #7 made 15 years ago
Brewer Pete,

Order links would be great.

A blow started syphon sounds good, i'm thinking an O2/Air bottle start for hot wort and CO2 for a Carboy ( if this unit is any good I will buy Carboy as want to move away from plastic), I know the HEPA filter should do the job but opening a valve is easier than blowing.

Cheers Mick

Post #8 made 15 years ago
Mick71 wrote:Brewer Pete,

Order links would be great.

A blow started syphon sounds good, i'm thinking an O2/Air bottle start for hot wort and CO2 for a Carboy ( if this unit is any good I will buy Carboy as want to move away from plastic), I know the HEPA filter should do the job but opening a valve is easier than blowing.

Cheers Mick
Image
:champ:
http://morewinemaking.com/search/103266 ... or_Carboys :thumbs:

We don't have all the parts in Oz to build it ourself at non-insane prices so I picked up 3 or 4 from the USA.

The whole kit only costs :evil: $14.95 now $18.95/$19.95 from falling US Dollar.

**EDIT: If you want good deal on shipping from the USA even if sites won't or charge too much then Price USA (google them) will let you ship to their Oregon USA location and then get 65% off the price of FedEx shipping to Australia and won't give you any run arounds.

Now depending on the bulk deal you have to factor in some international shipping cost component, then shipping locally postage + packaging. To save on local posting costs if every local brew club in Australia participates then its only a single mini-bulk mailing to the club officer who will then bring them to the next meeting for all club members.

The easiest way to start a siphon. In 2 seconds you have your siphon working with no effort and no contamination as the hepa filter is involved (we can get the hepa filter locally but the price in Oz is close to $9 and then add shipping on top of that. So almost the whole price of the whole kit from the USA!)

The movie is here to see no moving parts to break, and siphon in seconds: Link to Movie of Siphon in action.
http://morebeer.com/public/video/siphonstartweb.mov :argh:


What you get in the kit:

26 inch Stainless Racking Cane (66 cm long)
Red Sediment Reduction Tip (on the bottom of the cane)
Yellow Carboy Hood for 6.5 Gallon Carboy (fits demijohns, carboys, anything you slide the rubber hood down and make a seal for the 2 seconds for starting siphon)
5' 3/8" ID Vinyl Tubing
Stainless Hose Clamp
Sterile Air Filter (hepa filter)



Of course this is for full size fermenters and would be big for 5 litres but if you buy and ship over a 5 litre size siphon you are stuck in case you want to use it with big fermenters. With the large fermenter kit you can look silly but still get it in a 5 litre glass Growler is my thinking.

From the site:

Simply blow into the sterile filter, which slightly pressurizes the carboy, causing beer to flow out. This is hands down superior to the numerous other methods of starting a siphon (and we have tried them all!) No sucking the end of the tube, no plungers with faulty gaskets, no shaking, no filling up the tube with unsterilized water, nothing to break, no contamination, no disturbing the sediment, and no fuss. Can you tell we really like it!

How to Use Attach the Sterile Siphon starter assembly by firmly pushing the orange or yellow carboy hood over the mouth of the carboy. Slide the stainless racking cane to the desired depth, just about the sediment level and blow into the white, sanitary air filter for 2-3 seconds. Blowing through the filter forces beer out through the racking cane, starting the siphon. There is no need to worry about contamination from your mouth, as the sanitary filter removes 99.98% of airborne bacteria. For a video demonstration, check out the video below.

Tip to Remove Oxygen in Line We suggest that as your starting the siphon you pinch the clear, flexible tubing near the racking cane. Release the pinch on the tubing after 1-2 seconds, while continuing to blow through for an additional second. This will cause the clear vinyl tubing to fill completely with beer, eliminating oxidation that can occur in siphoning when your line is not completely full and beer is mixing with oxygen.

Special Tip for Additional Use of Sterile Siphon Starter on Brew Day
During the brew day fill your carboy with sanitizer as normal. Take the red tip off the end of the stainless racking cane and insert Siphon Starter assembly into carboy filled with sanitizer. Blow on filter to begin siphoning sanitizer out of carboy. As the sanitizer empties the carboy fills with filtered air, leaving a sanitized, bacteria free environment to fill your beer into.

About the White Sterile Filter: There are two sides to the filter - an "in" and an "out". The direction you use doesn't matter, however, you want to take note of which way you first push air through it and always keep it that way. There is an arrow on the edge of the filter housing that we use to keep the air flow going one direction when using it. The filter should never get wet, so don't try and sanitize it by dunking it in sanitizer. If you want to clean the outside of it, use Alpet D2. To store the filter, use a little tinfoil on the "In" of the filter and store in a zip-lock bag.
Last edited by Brewer Pete on 23 Mar 2011, 18:06, edited 5 times in total.

Post #9 made 15 years ago
originalben
I have a keggle with a thermometer and ball valve. Now that I have switched from 3 tier to BIAB I find that the thermometer is not really needed. I do like the valve. I draw off hot water from the valve and dump it on my grain to get a even temperature in my mash. I find that the water below my brew bag is much hotter than the digital prob that I stick in the mash. If my mash temp seems perfect and I cover my mash and wait my hour? I find that the mash temp actually rises to the temperature of the water above the burner to put me too hot! So I draw off the hotter water below and dump it on my mash to average out the water-mash temperatures.

I always cube my wort now so I love just putting a temperature safe hose on my spout and going straight into the cube. I do StarSan the hose but the boiling wort does the trick anyway! When I clean my keggel I run the left over StarSan through the valve and close it in progress.

This is just my way of doing it. I am not saying that this is right or better than any other way, just my way.
Here is a link to some exciting water averaging photos. http://www.stempski.com/biab.php
Last edited by BobBrews on 23 Mar 2011, 21:52, edited 5 times in total.
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