Problem with brew - final gravity is way too high - Help!

Post #1 made 10 years ago
I'm on my third mini-BIAB - I'm following a recipe from Brewing Classic Styles, the American Amber Ale recipe.
I've scaled the recipe for my brew pot and I've just finished the boil and I've wrapped it up and I'm leaving it to cool overnight and then I'll transfer to the fermenter and pitch the yeast tomorrow.

The problem I have is that the pre-boil gravity was supposed to be 1.043 but my measurement came out as 1.057 !
My end of boil ambient gravity reading came out as 1.075 and it's supposed to be 1.052 !

I've no idea why this has happened, only possible thing I can think of is that I either ordered my grain bill incorrectly although I don't think so or maybe the home brew store measured it incorrectly. The grains came as ordered, already milled and mixed up in a single bag and I didn't weigh it before I mashed, I assumed it was good. I did notice that my mash volume seemed bigger than it was supposed to be which made me think there was more grain than there should have been.

So, I was thinking that I could add some boiled/cooled water to my fermenter tomorrow when I transfer my cooled wort and hence dilute my brew down to a more reasonable final gravity. Would this be fine to do? How would it effect the hops aspect, I assume it would dilute this bitterness/aroma as well?
Is there anyway to estimate the volume of additional water I need to add in order to bring down the final gravity by a certain amount? (maybe using the BIABacus)?

I've added my BIABacus as well, I'd really appreciate someone giving it the once over to make sure I haven't done anything stupid in the initial setup.

Thanks.

EDIT: I was thinking, I worked out somewhere on the internet that if I add 2.5L of water then this should drop the FG to about 1.060 which would be fine. However, the IBUs would now be off - just a thought but I was thinking I could boil this 2.5L with some additional hops and then allow to cool overnight and add this into the fermenter when cool, this way I also get some additional bitterness back into the wort. You think this seems reasonable?
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Post #2 made 10 years ago
Chesl73, Do you have the VIB(volume into the BOIL), and the VAW(Volume of ambient Wort)?

If you started the boil with less than 12.73L or ended with a VAW less than 11.08L, The gravity's would be Off.

JMHO.
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Post #3 made 10 years ago
joshua wrote:Chesl73, Do you have the VIB(volume into the BOIL), and the VAW(Volume of ambient Wort)?

If you started the boil with less than 12.73L or ended with a VAW less than 11.08L, The gravity's would be Off.

JMHO.
Hi

I've attached my BIABacus, I measured VIB and it was 13.70L and volume at flame out was 11.30.
It all appears to be in order, that's why I'm a bit confused as to the gravity readings, doesn't make much sense.

Any thoughts?

Also, any thoughts on rectifying the situation as per my question, ie, adding water?

Thanks for the response.
Last edited by chesl73 on 21 Nov 2015, 20:16, edited 1 time in total.

Post #4 made 10 years ago
The the grain bill was high, you would need to 8.5 pound/3900Gr, vs 5.34 pound/2420gr.

Adding water to lower the Gravity will work, But the Hop bill will be reduced too.(Flavor/Bitterness).

Also, how big is your Fermentor, since to volume to lower 1.075 @ 11.08L would be 15.98L @ 1.052 or 4.9L more, since you want to drop the OG 30%.
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Post #5 made 10 years ago
Let's just keep things simple here for a second and get back to basics...

Here's a few...

Rule 1: You can't trust a single reading on a single brew.

chesl, from what I can see of his BIABacus has taken some excellent measurements during his brew. :salute:

Rule 2: You can't trust your output measurements, no matter how good, unless you double-check your input measurements. chesl, your actual measurements balance really nicely with each other but, one cause of this could be that too much grain went into the brew in the first place. It's not a great double-check but see in Section L how your actual mash volume is 18.000 L versus the estimated 17.37 L? This is a sign (a very poor one) that maybe your grain bill was over-weight.

....

I'm thrilled at your diligence in the measurements I can see you have taken. Very few brewers will do that when starting out. The great thing about you taking such care is we can so quickly narrow down if you have a real fault in your brewing process or just an anomaly.

If your first two brews went as expected, then don't read too much into this one, just try and find a way of double-checking your grain bill weight and water volume.

Top job I reckon :thumbs:,
PP
Last edited by PistolPatch on 21 Nov 2015, 22:40, edited 1 time in total.
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Post #6 made 10 years ago
Chesel. You could simply dry hop in the fermenter. I'm not sure how much bitterness it would add but you would gain some aroma back.
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Post #7 made 10 years ago
PistolPatch wrote:Let's just keep things simple here for a second and get back to basics...

PP
Thanks PP. My guess would be the grain weight, the others have turned out fine.
I'm going to top up with some water and I'll throw into the fermenter a small amount of hops as well.

One question I had about measurements, at the end of the brew, the BIABacus works out various efficiencies such as
EIB, EAW, EIF and on the previous brews, my actual has been very close to the estimated.

Do these relate to other measures I've seen (outside BIABacus) such as 'brewhouse efficiency' or 'mash efficiency'?
And can measurement of these be used in anyway feedback into my calculations? ie, I can see my EIB or EAW but so what? Does it have any use knowing this or than 'it's nice to know'?

Thanks
Last edited by chesl73 on 22 Nov 2015, 08:54, edited 1 time in total.

Post #8 made 10 years ago
I've just adjusted the volume and pitched the yeast.
I measured again the gravity and it was 1.073 of the ambient wort.
I added 2.5L of water that overnight was boiled for 60mins with an addition of hops to increase the bittering.
The gravity now reads 1.056 which I'm happy with and should hopefully give me a final ABV around 5.5% which is a bit more palatable.

Post #9 made 10 years ago
Knowing your efficiency at different points helps in zeroing in on where problems started. EIB would be your mash efficiency and to me brewhouse efficiency would be post fermentation efficiency.
Some people are like slinkies. Not good for much, but bring a smile to your face when pushed down the stairs.

Weehoosebrewing.ga
    • SVA Brewer With Over 20 Brews From Canada

Post #10 made 10 years ago
I would have thought that there would be an ability to feedback these measured efficiencies for your own brewing back into BIABacus rather than just keeping the same values for everyone every time?

I assume there must be a reason that the spreadsheet doesn't allow for this?

Post #12 made 10 years ago
Why do people care about efficiency More than good Beer.

I make a good beer, using BIABACUS, and get Efficiency between 68% and 84% from different Recipes.

There is No awards for those Numbers, the Beer is what matters.

Temperatures, Time, Ingredients, and Age, in what is important.

JMHO, YMMV, and YOHO is what matters.
Honest Officer, I swear to Drunk, I am Not God.
    • SVA Brewer With Over 100 Brews From United States of America

Problem with brew - final gravity is way too high - Help!

Post #13 made 10 years ago
I think some people care about efficiency far too much as an absolute number that they try to target specifically. Often my observation is that they have spent big chasing it and need to think it's important.

For others it is about being able to hit your numbers with only minor variation from a specific recipe. Obviously efficiency for BIAB is much better if you are making a mild than it is if you are making a barley wine but for a same target gravity you need to know roughly what you will get out.

Generally that is more about being able to brew consistently than trying to save a few handfuls of grain.

Post #14 made 10 years ago
The reason I hit my Numbers is, I use a refracormeter.

Then Mash until I hit the projected Number.

Then FWH, so I do not need to Time the Bitterness addition.

Then Boil until 1 of 2 things happen, VFO, or the OG, is met.

Then Hop stand/whirlpool hop for Flavor, and Aroma.

Then, Slo-Chill.

Since I brew, to hit the projected Numbers, Efficiency is meaningless.
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Problem with brew - final gravity is way too high - Help!

Post #15 made 10 years ago
A refractometer can only tell you what is currently happening. It won't help you in designing a recipe so you have the right amount of grain and water to get your desired volume at a desired OG.

Whatever recipe formulation you use is clearly dialed in well to the efficiency of your system. Whether or not it is a figure that you consider when you are brewing or not it is still there!

Post #16 made 10 years ago
Contrarian, BIABACUS is the Design Program.
Image
Post #14 is the 'Process" I use to make some Great Beer.
Image
Last edited by joshua on 24 Nov 2015, 21:35, edited 1 time in total.
Honest Officer, I swear to Drunk, I am Not God.
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Post #17 made 10 years ago
Josh, you have to come clean and say that you are an extremist (put it in your signature!) :lol:. Didn't you have some exhaust fan or something going to try and make the evaporation equal on all your brews? I'm definitely on Contrarian's side here sorry mate :).

Let's back up a bit...

Firstly, nice job chesl on Post #8. Perfect and great decision-making :thumbs: :clap: :salute: :champ:.
chesl73 wrote:One question I had about measurements, at the end of the brew, the BIABacus works out various efficiencies such as EIB, EAW, EIF and on the previous brews, my actual has been very close to the estimated.
This is the aim of The BIABacus. It makes the difficult estimates for you whereas...
chesl73 wrote:...other measures I've seen (outside BIABacus) such as 'brewhouse efficiency' or 'mash efficiency'?
are terms used in other programs which are, firstly, very poorly defined. For example, brewhouse efficiency, in one program, can mean kettle efficiency whilst in another it will mean fermentor efficiency. Worse still two brewers using exactly the same program might think brewhouse efficiency means kettle efficiency while the other thinks it means fementor efficiency :shock:. The only useful and standardised terminology has been developed on this site here.

Most people who use the word efficiency actually have no idea that there is even a vast differences between kettle and fermentor efficiencies. It's a term widely used by all-grain home brewers, not just on forums but in magazines etc,. Thanks to the BIABacus, it is no longer a term that beginners and even advanced brewers need to be familiar with or knowledgeable about. It is only when your actuals stray significantly from your estimates that we need to pay a bit more attention.

Make sense or not?
chesl73 wrote: I would have thought that there would be an ability to feedback these measured efficiencies as Contrarian mentioned, there is but it should not be necessaryfor your own brewing back into BIABacus rather than just keeping the same values for everyone every time? I assume there must be a reason that the spreadsheet doesn't allow for this?
The hardest thing about the BIABacus is when people have used other software or have read other forums (which 99% of brewers will have done :)).

This is a fantastic question and I'm not too sure I can answer it anywhere near as well as I would like to but will have a crack.

Let's look at other software first...

Other Software Works Like This

1. Type in your batch size (there is no standard definition of batch size so this can vary from program to program and from brewer to brewer).
2. Estimate your evaporation rate (even the most popular commercial software used a percentage instead of a fixed amount per hour until BIABrewer.info corrected it.) Your evaporation rate should not be measured as a percentage when home-brewing.
3. Estimate your 'efficiency'. As mentioned, most brewers have no idea if these means kettle or fermentor efficiency. Furthermore, all software besides the BIABacus, treats it as a constant whereas it is a variable.
4. Estimate your kettle and fermentor losses.

So, the other software makes no decisions for you but will recommend the same defaults for everyone.

The BIABacus Works Like This...

1. Type in your desired Volume into Fermentor.
2. Type in your kettle dimensions.
3. Type in the OG of this batch.

So, type in three knowns of your system and the BIABacus actually tailors (considers) the individual batch and then gives you excellent estimates on the ingredient weights and water required but also with a sensible safety margin.

It is a whole new paradigm where the software is making the important decisions for you whereas all other brewing software requires you, the brewer, to make very uneducated guesses.

That is an incredible difference.

One Important Thing

Sorry Josh, going to disagree with you again here. I've written this a heap of times... "Commercial breweries do not produce the same beer on each batch. They do blending etc to make sure they are in the ballpark but each batch is different. In craft breweries, the difference between each batch becomes more noticeable." As a home brewer, you have one advantage, you can freeze pellet hops etc of this year's vintage and so get consistent brews until they run out but net year's crop could be a whole new ballgame. Any good brewer, commercial or home should get very comfortable with the fact that...
many aspects of a brew are not in your control.
All skilled brewers do not expect to be consistent in their readings or flavours because they know they can't be. What they are skilled at is manipulating the ingredients they have available on the day correctly and adjusting post-boil.

In fact, you limit yourself to a large extent when you think things can be controlled as you miss the opportunity to blend your beers etc. Gordon Strong who won the massive comp in America several times did it by submitting thirty entries but many of those were blends.

Rambled for way too long here now but one last thing...

Really Taste Your Home Brew Batch Before You Criticise It.

One of the best home brews I have had was a kit beer fermented at about a billion degrees in a shed. I didn't know that before I tasted it. All I knew was that I was gong to have a taste of the guy's home brew. It was the clearest and cleanest of lagers but with some dimension to it. It was brilliant!

Upon questioning, I found out about the fermentation conditions etc but it went one better...

The kit he had brewed was for an India Pale Ale. Seriously!

:)
PP
Last edited by PistolPatch on 24 Nov 2015, 23:26, edited 1 time in total.
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Post #18 made 10 years ago
PP, Once you Program BIABACUS, it will tell you the GIB, so Mashing until the GIB is reached, you keep Mashing, until you realize the Mash is finished at or Short of the BIABACUS Number. Just check the gravity after you Stir, and Check Temperature.

Mash-out Pull the Bag, and Drain.

Hop sack the FWH hops, and move on the the Boil.

After some time Check the GAW of the Boil, and if it is Close(due the Hot wort vs the Ambient Wort), check the VFO.
If your at VFO, and the GAW is close, Flame-out, and add the Whirlpool/Hopstand additions, and get the Overnight 'Slow Chill' towel and lid ready.

When the wort has cooled to Hopstand Minimums, pull the Hop sacks, and put on the towel and Lid, and Put the Kettle to sleep.

It does not matter the times it took to Brew the Batch, nor the type/Style of beer your Making, And the ingredients you Choose.

I am looking for the Gravity, and Volumes projected by BIABACUS.

Depending of the Beer GODS, and the Yeasty's you have, No two Batches will 'ever' finish the Same.

But, it is Great Beer!!!
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Post #19 made 10 years ago
PistolPatch wrote:
Thanks for the responses PP, very helpful. Funnily enough I've learnt a lot from my overly strong wort last weekend and I've noted a number of small things I'll be changing in my brew day process. Haven't been doing all-grain/BIAB for long but loving it, really enjoying the process and the learning and best of all the end result is beer. And really, for all the detailed discussions on this and that, even if a few things don't go to plan you'll generally still end up with a good beer out of it.
joshua wrote:
When the wort has cooled to Hopstand Minimums, pull the Hop sacks, and put on the towel and Lid, and Put the Kettle to sleep.
And joshua, you told me about this slow-chill process of tea-towel and pillowcase on a previous post as the chill process in a water bath was slow and painful. I've given it a go now a few times and it works brilliantly and makes the whole process quicker and easier so thanks for that suggestion.

Thanks guys for the info, really helpful.
Last edited by chesl73 on 25 Nov 2015, 17:02, edited 1 time in total.

Post #20 made 10 years ago
chesl, great post above. You have a really good and sensible approach which is rare to see and your conclusions are spot on. Top job :thumbs:.

...

Looks like chesl is sorted Josh so it's down to you and me now :lol:.

I know the way you brew and that it works for you so that is all fine but I would not recommend the approach of "chasing" numbers for many reasons and I'm going to write a few of them...

1. The BIABacus can 'estimate' gravities and volumes better than anything else around but it cannot 'predict' them.

To do so would firstly require that the brewer had accurate stats on each and every malt that went into his/her brew and, even if you are buying tons of malt in one go, even the specs you are given will be based on a small sample. So, any software that claims to predict anything or make your brewing predictable is misleading. It is simply not possible and even the largest of commercial breweries cannot make identical batches although most drinkers will think they are identical.

2. You can't rely on single measurements on a single brew.

Even assuming that you have double-checked the weight of ingredients and volume of water into your mash using two different measurement methods, there is no way you can get accurate refractometer or hydrometer readings without either taking several samples and/or giving them time.

3. Don't be scared of post-boil adjustments.

Assuming you have taken a few measurements during the brew, this is the best place to make any adjustments as you have confirmation of your readings. Contrary to the belief (also unconfirmed) of several years ago and which all hop bitterness formulas work on, gravity into boil does not affect hop utilisation much at all. Many other things do and they really can't be measured so, make a brew plan, brew it and dilute to desired gravity once your numbers are confirmed.

KISS!!!! There are no advantages to complicating this process.

:peace:
PP
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