Ok, Majorphil, I think your presumptions are correct having rechecked my recipe. However, I think my workings (though by a different route) arrived at a similar result. I went back and used your technique then put the vaw in at 23. I then removed the 78.6 from the efficiency and set my desired VIF to 12L as I had done with the previous recipe and bingo, all the estimated volumes in section k are the same for your technique and mine (which had given a VAW of 24.03). The what you will use grain bills for both techniques match. The only difference is in the hop bill which with your technique requires slightly more than what my technique and produced and a slightly higher IBU.
In summary, I think your assumption that the makes figure of 23L is the VAW in the book. I'm happy to use either of these methods to work out a conversion.
Post #2052 made 10 years ago
If you switch to hopsock being used to Y, change the VIF to 20.82L/5.5G(typical VIF number) ... VAW becomes 23.11L. Enter that into Sec D. and your IBU's for the hop bill become 41.7. Grains calculate within 300g-ish of original bill.
This is why I felt you did a great job, 23L VAW is what I think it is. Of course, ambiguity in recipes leaves for many "correct" interpretations. To me, this one seems just fine.
This is why I felt you did a great job, 23L VAW is what I think it is. Of course, ambiguity in recipes leaves for many "correct" interpretations. To me, this one seems just fine.
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Post #2053 made 10 years ago
Thanks Rick. The more I play with these recipes the more I learn about biabacus.
Post #2055 made 10 years ago
Sorry Mar-Paul. I have just spent 45 mins writing an answer to you on the above and have just lost the lotMarPaul wrote:Hi, I'm new here and tried plugging a traditional recipe into the BIABacus and was curious when I saw the recipe called for less grain but more hops, I was thinking that both ingredients would move up or down in proportion to one another. Just curious if thats a normal result. Thanks!!
Recipe source: http://www.morebeer.com/products/snowfl ... anced.html
I've attached the BIABacus with the ingredients filled in.
. (My main keyboard blew up a week ago and am using an old one which somehow managed to delete everything written.) I'll re-write it all again tomorrow but for now, hold on on what you are doing.PP
(Key Points: Don't duplicate original efficiency - your brewery is not the same as the original brewery. Grain is based on 'efficiency'. Hops are based on 'seasoning' of VAW. If every recipe piublished their VAW, all would be easy and I would not have lost all the above time!!!!!!!! incl 15 mins writing this
.)You do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post.
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Post #2056 made 10 years ago
Okey dokey, here we go again.
Firstly Mar-Paul, your question re malt and hops moving up and down in proportion to each other is a good one. The malt and hop bill however depend on different things.
The Grain Bill Depends On...
If we are brewing the same gravity brew and want the same 'Volume into Fermentor (VIF)' on two brewing systems, the amount of grain required will be identical if and only if:-
1. Both brewers have identical 'Efficiency into Kettle - EIK'
2. Both brewers have the same 'Kettle to Fermentor Loss - KFL'
However, in reality, the above two things rarely exist. For example, BIAB is a very kettle efficient brewing system so it is not uncommon for the kettle efficiency (EIK) to be say, 10% higher than another brewer in many situations. In other words, the BIAB brewer would need 10% less grain to get the same 'Volume of Ambient Wort (*VAW)'. The VAW is the volume of wort at the end of the boil once it has been chilled.
Now imagine those same two brewers had different trub management practices. One brewer might use a hop sock and therefore would have less KFL than the other brewer. If it turned out that the BIAB brewer was the brewer with better trub management practices, then they would need even less grain again than the other brewer to get the same Volume into Fermentor because they are wasting less. (In other words, they do not need to make as much VAW in the first place).
This is how two brewers can require two different grain bills to get the same VIF.
Make sense?
The Hop Bill though, Depends On...
If we are brewing the same gravity brew and want the same 'Volume into Fermentor (VIF)' on two brewing systems, the amount of hops required will be identical if and only if:-
1. Both brewers have identical 'Kettle to Fermentor Loss (KFL)'
or, another way of saying this is,
1. If both brewers have the same VAW. (VAW is really just VIF plus KFL).
I have assumed that the two brewers will be using exactly the same hops. For example, the hops have identical Alpha Acid percentages.
Should I Adjust the BIABacus so the Weights Match the Original Recipe?
Mad-Scientist showed you some ways of adjusting the BIAbacus so that you can emulate the original brewer's system but I just want to make sure that you know that you should not do this unless you will be brewing on exactly the same system as the original brewer (which you won't be!). In other words, leave all the BIABacus advanced sections alone. The BIABacus has been carefully written to auto-estimate very well and safely how your system is likely to operate. If you play around so everything matches the original brewer, then you would need to match their efficiency into kettle as well as their kettle to fermentor loss.
So, just use the file I posted above*.
...
The other thing to be aware of is 'recipe integrity'. A lot, if not most, brewing software and/or nomenclature and/or poor formulas can lead to a rapid distortion of a recipe. For example, in this particular recipe, I think there is a major error in the hop bill. But, because not enough info is supplied (as always) in the original recipe, to investigate this further I'd have to type in the recipe into a few different programs and then make further guesses to eventually stumble on something that made sense. This alone would take an hour but even if I did do that, I'm pretty sure, in this case, I would not be able to get things to balance.
Make sure you read a few of the stickied threads in the this forum (BIABrewer.info and BIAB for New Members) that contain the word integrity. These will explain many of the problems with trying to copy recipes. ALso search my posts for 'Garetz' until you find a picture of different IBU formula results.
PP
* You had one error in your hop bill which I forgot to fix. Your third hop edition should be half an ounce on the left hand side. This is not the cause of our hop problem though.
Firstly Mar-Paul, your question re malt and hops moving up and down in proportion to each other is a good one. The malt and hop bill however depend on different things.
The Grain Bill Depends On...
If we are brewing the same gravity brew and want the same 'Volume into Fermentor (VIF)' on two brewing systems, the amount of grain required will be identical if and only if:-
1. Both brewers have identical 'Efficiency into Kettle - EIK'
2. Both brewers have the same 'Kettle to Fermentor Loss - KFL'
However, in reality, the above two things rarely exist. For example, BIAB is a very kettle efficient brewing system so it is not uncommon for the kettle efficiency (EIK) to be say, 10% higher than another brewer in many situations. In other words, the BIAB brewer would need 10% less grain to get the same 'Volume of Ambient Wort (*VAW)'. The VAW is the volume of wort at the end of the boil once it has been chilled.
Now imagine those same two brewers had different trub management practices. One brewer might use a hop sock and therefore would have less KFL than the other brewer. If it turned out that the BIAB brewer was the brewer with better trub management practices, then they would need even less grain again than the other brewer to get the same Volume into Fermentor because they are wasting less. (In other words, they do not need to make as much VAW in the first place).
This is how two brewers can require two different grain bills to get the same VIF.
Make sense?
The Hop Bill though, Depends On...
If we are brewing the same gravity brew and want the same 'Volume into Fermentor (VIF)' on two brewing systems, the amount of hops required will be identical if and only if:-
1. Both brewers have identical 'Kettle to Fermentor Loss (KFL)'
or, another way of saying this is,
1. If both brewers have the same VAW. (VAW is really just VIF plus KFL).
I have assumed that the two brewers will be using exactly the same hops. For example, the hops have identical Alpha Acid percentages.
Should I Adjust the BIABacus so the Weights Match the Original Recipe?
Mad-Scientist showed you some ways of adjusting the BIAbacus so that you can emulate the original brewer's system but I just want to make sure that you know that you should not do this unless you will be brewing on exactly the same system as the original brewer (which you won't be!). In other words, leave all the BIABacus advanced sections alone. The BIABacus has been carefully written to auto-estimate very well and safely how your system is likely to operate. If you play around so everything matches the original brewer, then you would need to match their efficiency into kettle as well as their kettle to fermentor loss.
So, just use the file I posted above*.
...
The other thing to be aware of is 'recipe integrity'. A lot, if not most, brewing software and/or nomenclature and/or poor formulas can lead to a rapid distortion of a recipe. For example, in this particular recipe, I think there is a major error in the hop bill. But, because not enough info is supplied (as always) in the original recipe, to investigate this further I'd have to type in the recipe into a few different programs and then make further guesses to eventually stumble on something that made sense. This alone would take an hour but even if I did do that, I'm pretty sure, in this case, I would not be able to get things to balance.
Make sure you read a few of the stickied threads in the this forum (BIABrewer.info and BIAB for New Members) that contain the word integrity. These will explain many of the problems with trying to copy recipes. ALso search my posts for 'Garetz' until you find a picture of different IBU formula results.
PP
* You had one error in your hop bill which I forgot to fix. Your third hop edition should be half an ounce on the left hand side. This is not the cause of our hop problem though.
Last edited by PistolPatch on 20 Jan 2015, 19:31, edited 6 times in total.
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Post #2057 made 10 years ago
Hello. I am new to this forum and also to the BIAB method. I have done one BIAB so far with good results and now I am looking to start using the BIABacus program to help with calculations for my next brew which I am planning for this weekend. I have already put all of my information into the attached BIABacus file and everything looks pretty good to me except for one number. The strike at temperature of 155.7F that the program is giving seems to be low to me for a mash temp of 154F. I was expecting the strike temp to be around 160F. Can any of you with experience with the BIABacus program please take a look at my file and let me know if you think it is correct and why my strike temp might be lower than expected?
Thanks,
Brad
Thanks,
Brad
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Post #2058 made 10 years ago
In section X ... set your Strike Water Temp Adjustment Factor (1-5) to 4.
The default for 1.3T is definitely low in my experience as well. It is set for heavier kettles and burners, which absorb a lot of heat which continues to heat the mash after you flame out.
4 works for me, YMMV.
The default for 1.3T is definitely low in my experience as well. It is set for heavier kettles and burners, which absorb a lot of heat which continues to heat the mash after you flame out.
4 works for me, YMMV.
Last edited by Rick on 23 Jan 2015, 22:08, edited 6 times in total.
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Post #2059 made 10 years ago
PERFECT! Looks much better now. Thanks for the help!Rick wrote:In section X ... set your Strike Water Temp Adjustment Factor (1-5) to 4.
The default for 1.3T is definitely low in my experience as well. It is set for heavier kettles and burners, which absorb a lot of heat which continues to heat the mash after you flame out.
4 works for me, YMMV.
Last edited by bradford0113 on 23 Jan 2015, 23:10, edited 6 times in total.
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Post #2060 made 10 years ago
I believe Greg Hughes owns the Brew UK home brew online shop and associated forum so you should be able to clarify any details there and report back, this should also help raise the integrity of the recipes in the boon for everyone once any ambiguities are removed.
Post #2061 made 10 years ago
Not sure if this info has been captured elsewhere, but these are the VAW values I've been using in section D for recipes from various books:
BCS : 21.82 L
British Real Ale 3rd edition : 22.11 L
Microbrewed Adventures : 19 L
Cheers,
BDP
BCS : 21.82 L
British Real Ale 3rd edition : 22.11 L
Microbrewed Adventures : 19 L
Cheers,
BDP
Last edited by BDP on 05 Feb 2015, 12:08, edited 1 time in total.
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Post #2062 made 10 years ago
bradford0113, the other thing to remember, which you may or may not know, is that full-volume brewing is much less sensitive to the vagaries of strike water. For example, if you imagine your bag of grain as one block of ice, dropping it into a large volume of water makes much less difference than dropping it into a small volume. The settings that Rick mentions above actually relate more to y0our equipment and no other program does this simply, if at all. Heavy burners and kettles actually will continue to heat after you turn your flame off. 'Thinner' set-ups such as urns, will stop heating as soon as the element stops.
MarPaul, spent more than two hours on the questions above and they haven't even been read
. Maybe a mod should email him as I really can't afford that sort of time.
.
Northern Brewer recipes are 20.83 L or 5.5 US Gal
Any possibility you can add the above (and the Imperial equivalent) to this thread?
If so, can you then PM 2 trout and tell him he has big responsibilities here - he needs to update his first post and reply in the Birthday Cheers thread
.
(Only half-joking there. I really want his thread to be kept up to date as we'll be needing the info there very soon.)
Thanks BDP
MarPaul, spent more than two hours on the questions above and they haven't even been read
. Maybe a mod should email him as I really can't afford that sort of time.Nice one BDPBDP wrote:Not sure if this info has been captured elsewhere, but these are the VAW values I've been using in section D for recipes from various books:
BCS : 21.82 l
British Real Ale 3rd edition : 22.11 l
Radical Brewing : 18.92 l
Microbrewed Adventures : 19 l
.Northern Brewer recipes are 20.83 L or 5.5 US Gal
Any possibility you can add the above (and the Imperial equivalent) to this thread?
If so, can you then PM 2 trout and tell him he has big responsibilities here - he needs to update his first post and reply in the Birthday Cheers thread
.(Only half-joking there. I really want his thread to be kept up to date as we'll be needing the info there very soon.)
Thanks BDP
Last edited by PistolPatch on 02 Feb 2015, 20:18, edited 6 times in total.
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Post #2063 made 10 years ago
Thanks Rick and PistolPatch. I set my Strike Water Temp Adjustment Factor to 4 as Rick suggested. Just brewed this past weekend using that factor and the strike temp suggested by BIABacus and hit my target mash temp right on the nose!PistolPatch wrote:bradford0113, the other thing to remember, which you may or may not know, is that full-volume brewing is much less sensitive to the vagaries of strike water. For example, if you imagine your bag of grain as one block of ice, dropping it into a large volume of water makes much less difference than dropping it into a small volume. The settings that Rick mentions above actually relate more to y0our equipment and no other program does this simply, if at all. Heavy burners and kettles actually will continue to heat after you turn your flame off. 'Thinner' set-ups such as urns, will stop heating as soon as the element stops.
Last edited by bradford0113 on 02 Feb 2015, 22:13, edited 6 times in total.
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Post #2064 made 10 years ago
Hi All,
I have attached the BIABacus for Randy Mosher's Belgian IPA as discussed at http://biabrewer.info/viewtopic.php?f=21&t=3133. I'm a little concerned about the strike temperature that is suggested in Section E, that is, 66.7 C (152 F) for a mash temp of 66.0 C (150.8 F). Pretty sure from past experience that strike temp will be too low. Did I set something wrong in the BIABacus?
Thanks,
Steve
I have attached the BIABacus for Randy Mosher's Belgian IPA as discussed at http://biabrewer.info/viewtopic.php?f=21&t=3133. I'm a little concerned about the strike temperature that is suggested in Section E, that is, 66.7 C (152 F) for a mash temp of 66.0 C (150.8 F). Pretty sure from past experience that strike temp will be too low. Did I set something wrong in the BIABacus?
Thanks,
Steve
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Last edited by shetc on 07 Feb 2015, 12:38, edited 6 times in total.
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Post #2065 made 10 years ago
Have a read of posts #5 through to #9 in this thread shetc 
.
Funnily enough, BDP has been exploring what VAW to use for Randy's book and has just sent me a PM today. He's done a great job and is just trying to tidy up a few loose ends. Until further notice, I think use 20.82 L / 5.5 gal as the VAW in Section D.
Hold on, also... No need to type 60 in for Ahtanum as that is already on the left of Section D. You will need though, on the right of Section D, to type in the AA% of the Saaz you will be using in the brew.
.Funnily enough, BDP has been exploring what VAW to use for Randy's book and has just sent me a PM today. He's done a great job and is just trying to tidy up a few loose ends. Until further notice, I think use 20.82 L / 5.5 gal as the VAW in Section D.
Hold on, also... No need to type 60 in for Ahtanum as that is already on the left of Section D. You will need though, on the right of Section D, to type in the AA% of the Saaz you will be using in the brew.
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Post #2066 made 10 years ago
Absolutely superb, Pat According to Amazon, my 44 quart Bayou Classic is made from 20-gauge stainless-steel, and the bottom has no cladding. Pretty thin so I'm going to set the Strike Water Adjustment Factor to 4, which gives me a strike temp of 68.7C (156F) for a mash temp of 66C (151F). Thanks very much!!!
According to Amazon, my 44 quart Bayou Classic is made from 20-gauge stainless-steel, and the bottom has no cladding. Pretty thin so I'm going to set the Strike Water Adjustment Factor to 4, which gives me a strike temp of 68.7C (156F) for a mash temp of 66C (151F). Thanks very much!!!-
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Post #2067 made 10 years ago
I brewed a Pale Ale (my first AG), the recipe is from the brewer at the Kernel Brewery (a London based brewery that's getting very successful, great beers...)
Recipe:
5,900g Marris Otter
123g Carapils
123g Caragold
FWH 16.3g Simcoe @ 13.4%AA
20mins 12.2g Simcoe @ 13.4%AA
15mins 14.8g Simcoe @ 13.4%AA
10mins 17g Simcoe @ 13.4%AA
5mins 20.5g Simcoe @ 13.4%AA
35 liters spring water
70 minute mash (between 63C / 67c, majority at 63c to 65c)
60 minute boil
30 minute cool time (immersion chiller)
23 liters into fermenter
pitched 11.5g US-05
I missed my target gravity - I hit 1.047 (target was 1.055) - I put this down to my mash temps - had one too many beers and forgot to check until 35 mins in and had to reheat. I've attached my BIABacus if you'd like to see more / give any feedback. My log shows (for the Mash):
16:10 67C (152.6f), add bag and start to dough in
16:20 Dough in complete, 65C (149f) temp, wrapped boiler
16:55 Temp 62C (143.6), remove bag / place in fermenter, turn on boiler
17:10 Temp 67C (152.6f), add bag, wrap boiler
17:30 Bag out, Temp 63C (145.4f), Turn on boiler, add FWH
18:09 Rolling boil
As the majority of the mash was spent at 63c to 65c (145.4f to 149f), I'm slightly worried that I'll end up with a thin beer with little body (or worse case watery) that'll be a touch over hopped. The temp range is right in the sweet spot for Beta amylase (54-65C / 129.2-149f) and a bit too low for Alpha amylase (68-75C / 154.4-167f), so there will be a load of highly fermentable sugars and minimal complex sugars.
No way to tell until I can taste it in a few weeks when getting ready to dry hop / prime for bottling and judge for myself. Does anyone have any thoughts / experience about the lower Mash temp? Maltodextrin at priming time can help (so I've read) but will see...
Recipe:
5,900g Marris Otter
123g Carapils
123g Caragold
FWH 16.3g Simcoe @ 13.4%AA
20mins 12.2g Simcoe @ 13.4%AA
15mins 14.8g Simcoe @ 13.4%AA
10mins 17g Simcoe @ 13.4%AA
5mins 20.5g Simcoe @ 13.4%AA
35 liters spring water
70 minute mash (between 63C / 67c, majority at 63c to 65c)
60 minute boil
30 minute cool time (immersion chiller)
23 liters into fermenter
pitched 11.5g US-05
I missed my target gravity - I hit 1.047 (target was 1.055) - I put this down to my mash temps - had one too many beers and forgot to check until 35 mins in and had to reheat. I've attached my BIABacus if you'd like to see more / give any feedback. My log shows (for the Mash):
16:10 67C (152.6f), add bag and start to dough in
16:20 Dough in complete, 65C (149f) temp, wrapped boiler
16:55 Temp 62C (143.6), remove bag / place in fermenter, turn on boiler
17:10 Temp 67C (152.6f), add bag, wrap boiler
17:30 Bag out, Temp 63C (145.4f), Turn on boiler, add FWH
18:09 Rolling boil
As the majority of the mash was spent at 63c to 65c (145.4f to 149f), I'm slightly worried that I'll end up with a thin beer with little body (or worse case watery) that'll be a touch over hopped. The temp range is right in the sweet spot for Beta amylase (54-65C / 129.2-149f) and a bit too low for Alpha amylase (68-75C / 154.4-167f), so there will be a load of highly fermentable sugars and minimal complex sugars.
No way to tell until I can taste it in a few weeks when getting ready to dry hop / prime for bottling and judge for myself. Does anyone have any thoughts / experience about the lower Mash temp? Maltodextrin at priming time can help (so I've read) but will see...
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Post #2068 made 10 years ago
Jack, welcome to the forum and congratulations on your first AG and a great post above 
. Apologies that you haven't received a response as yet to your post above but, on this forum, atm especially, sometimes everyone gets busy at the same time 
. I'm just catching up a bit today and think I have answered three first AG posts already so it looks like everyone is busy!
Besides congratulating you on your first AG, I also want to say you have done a lovely job on the BIABacus and your recording of actuals. Very nice. There's a few corrections/investigations we need to make before your next brew so post back in this thread before our next brew. (For example, we need to work out why we have 1.052 on the left of Section C and 1.055 on the right. Similarly, we need to resolve the VAW and desired IBU's in Section D. Not big issues in this circumstance though.)
We also need to look at the 60 minute mash and 60 minute boil times. These are not the optimum even though you'll see them written in books, magazines, forums etc, often with 'scientific supporting evidence', time and again. For example, an article might say an iodine test shows that all starches are converted to sugars after x minutes, but that is actually just sage 1 of the mashing process. A 60 minute mash time may or may not complete Stage 1, let alone say Stage 3. Your excellent measurements show a deficiency in your kettle efficiency. The BIABacus, purposely under-estimates kettle efficiency and you are under that. Most of that, if not all will be because of your 60 minute mash time. So, bear that in mind.
A 60 minute versus 90 minute boil will not reveal itself in numbers, only quality. Most brewers (probably me included), on most styles, with most waters, would not be able to detect the difference between a 60 and 90 minute boil. A 90 minute boil though is the safest starting point on all brews. I still do it on every brew as it gives me more time to sort hops out etc. Why not take things easy instead of rushing?
Congrats again,
PP
. Apologies that you haven't received a response as yet to your post above but, on this forum, atm especially, sometimes everyone gets busy at the same time . I'm just catching up a bit today and think I have answered three first AG posts already so it looks like everyone is busy!Besides congratulating you on your first AG, I also want to say you have done a lovely job on the BIABacus and your recording of actuals. Very nice
. There's a few corrections/investigations we need to make before your next brew so post back in this thread before our next brew. (For example, we need to work out why we have 1.052 on the left of Section C and 1.055 on the right. Similarly, we need to resolve the VAW and desired IBU's in Section D. Not big issues in this circumstance though.)We also need to look at the 60 minute mash and 60 minute boil times. These are not the optimum even though you'll see them written in books, magazines, forums etc, often with 'scientific supporting evidence', time and again. For example, an article might say an iodine test shows that all starches are converted to sugars after x minutes, but that is actually just sage 1 of the mashing process. A 60 minute mash time may or may not complete Stage 1, let alone say Stage 3. Your excellent measurements show a deficiency in your kettle efficiency. The BIABacus, purposely under-estimates kettle efficiency and you are under that. Most of that, if not all will be because of your 60 minute mash time. So, bear that in mind.
A 60 minute versus 90 minute boil will not reveal itself in numbers, only quality. Most brewers (probably me included), on most styles, with most waters, would not be able to detect the difference between a 60 and 90 minute boil. A 90 minute boil though is the safest starting point on all brews. I still do it on every brew as it gives me more time to sort hops out etc. Why not take things easy instead of rushing?
Congrats again
,PP
Last edited by PistolPatch on 14 Feb 2015, 15:51, edited 6 times in total.
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Post #2069 made 10 years ago
So I set the Strike Water Adjustment Factor to 4, which resulted in a mash temp of 65.4C/149.7F (this includes stirring when taking the temp) -- I will try a SWAF of 5 for my next brew. I think the real issue is that the Bayou Classic stainless steel stockpot is pretty thin. I am going to try this insulation method for my next mash http://nbcba.org/forum/equipment/insula ... /#msg32031 (without the valve).shetc wrote:Absolutely superb, Pat
Last edited by shetc on 16 Feb 2015, 09:39, edited 6 times in total.
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Post #2070 made 10 years ago
Hi all,
I am really new to brewing, only 1 extract brew under my belt, and saw a recipe I wanted to try and need some help adjusting it to meet my needs / equipment. I don't have any real idea about where to start, so any help or direction is greatly appreciated.
The recipe is BierMuncher's Cream of 3 Crops that he posted here.
Cream Ale Recipe
Recipe Type: All Grain
Yeast: Safale - 05
Yeast Starter: Prior Slurry
Batch Size (Gallons): 11.5
Original Gravity: 1.040
Final Gravity: 1.005
IBU: 14.3
Boiling Time (Minutes): 90
Color: 2.9
Primary Fermentation (# of Days & Temp): 14 Days at 68 Degrees
Additional Fermentation: Kegged and chilled for 10 days
This is a very simple, inexpensive cream ale recipe that will get every BMC drinker in the room enjoying homebrew. So named because of the three different crops that go into the grist (Barley, Corn and Rice).
I brewed up 10 gallons of this and after kegging, bottled up a case to take to a family event (Mothers Day). Even my 78-yr old FIL, who is strict Miller Lite drinker, ended up having two pints. The chics dug it and we ran out well before the end of the evening.
The grain bill is cheap and in this case, you can use Minute Rice instead of flaked rice. No step mashing required. Simply combine the ingredients and follow a simple single infusion mash at around 152 degrees. I also mashed this for 90 minutes to get a highly attenuated beer. FG was 1.005...leaving a very dry, crisp beer with no noticeable graininess.
While this doesn't adhere to the strict beer laws, and I don't consider this one of my "craft" efforts, it is without a doubt the beer that I get the most "you really made this beer?" comments.
So if you've got some hard core "If it ain't Budweiser it ain't beer…" drinking friends…give this a try.
This beer clears up quickest of any of my recipes.
Batch Size: 11.50 gal
Boil Size: 14.26 gal
Estimated OG: 1.040 SG
Estimated Color: 2.9 SRM
Estimated IBU: 14.3 IBU
Brewhouse Efficiency: 75.0 %
Boil Time: 90 Minutes
Ingredients:
------------
12.00 lb Pale Malt (2 Row) US (2.0 SRM)
4.00 lb Corn, Flaked (1.3 SRM)
1.00 lb Minute Rice (1.0 SRM)
1.00 oz Willamette [5.20%] (60 min)
1.00 oz Crystal [3.50%] (60 min)
My Equipment
------------
My Kettle Size: 27 L
My Kettle Diameter: 29.8 cm
My Kettle Height: 38.7 cm
Fermenter Size: 24.6 L
Not sure if it is essential for this recipe to adjust the hops but mine are as follows:
My Ingredients
------------
Willamette [4.80%]
Crystal [5.40%]
Thanks in advance for all the hard work you all put in to help new guys like me!
-sh3rlock
edit- I would like to get 20.82 L VIF if at all possible.
I only have the following ingredients on hand:
2722 g of Pale Malt (2 Row) US
907 g Flaked Maize
454 g Minute Rice
I played around with the BIABacus but I am really lost at how I can get my VIF with the ingredients I have currently.
Thanks!
I am really new to brewing, only 1 extract brew under my belt, and saw a recipe I wanted to try and need some help adjusting it to meet my needs / equipment. I don't have any real idea about where to start, so any help or direction is greatly appreciated.
The recipe is BierMuncher's Cream of 3 Crops that he posted here.
Cream Ale Recipe
Recipe Type: All Grain
Yeast: Safale - 05
Yeast Starter: Prior Slurry
Batch Size (Gallons): 11.5
Original Gravity: 1.040
Final Gravity: 1.005
IBU: 14.3
Boiling Time (Minutes): 90
Color: 2.9
Primary Fermentation (# of Days & Temp): 14 Days at 68 Degrees
Additional Fermentation: Kegged and chilled for 10 days
This is a very simple, inexpensive cream ale recipe that will get every BMC drinker in the room enjoying homebrew. So named because of the three different crops that go into the grist (Barley, Corn and Rice).
I brewed up 10 gallons of this and after kegging, bottled up a case to take to a family event (Mothers Day). Even my 78-yr old FIL, who is strict Miller Lite drinker, ended up having two pints. The chics dug it and we ran out well before the end of the evening.
The grain bill is cheap and in this case, you can use Minute Rice instead of flaked rice. No step mashing required. Simply combine the ingredients and follow a simple single infusion mash at around 152 degrees. I also mashed this for 90 minutes to get a highly attenuated beer. FG was 1.005...leaving a very dry, crisp beer with no noticeable graininess.
While this doesn't adhere to the strict beer laws, and I don't consider this one of my "craft" efforts, it is without a doubt the beer that I get the most "you really made this beer?" comments.
So if you've got some hard core "If it ain't Budweiser it ain't beer…" drinking friends…give this a try.
This beer clears up quickest of any of my recipes.
Batch Size: 11.50 gal
Boil Size: 14.26 gal
Estimated OG: 1.040 SG
Estimated Color: 2.9 SRM
Estimated IBU: 14.3 IBU
Brewhouse Efficiency: 75.0 %
Boil Time: 90 Minutes
Ingredients:
------------
12.00 lb Pale Malt (2 Row) US (2.0 SRM)
4.00 lb Corn, Flaked (1.3 SRM)
1.00 lb Minute Rice (1.0 SRM)
1.00 oz Willamette [5.20%] (60 min)
1.00 oz Crystal [3.50%] (60 min)
My Equipment
------------
My Kettle Size: 27 L
My Kettle Diameter: 29.8 cm
My Kettle Height: 38.7 cm
Fermenter Size: 24.6 L
Not sure if it is essential for this recipe to adjust the hops but mine are as follows:
My Ingredients
------------
Willamette [4.80%]
Crystal [5.40%]
Thanks in advance for all the hard work you all put in to help new guys like me!
-sh3rlock
edit- I would like to get 20.82 L VIF if at all possible.
I only have the following ingredients on hand:
2722 g of Pale Malt (2 Row) US
907 g Flaked Maize
454 g Minute Rice
I played around with the BIABacus but I am really lost at how I can get my VIF with the ingredients I have currently.
Thanks!
Last edited by sh3rlock on 25 Feb 2015, 22:04, edited 7 times in total.
Post #2071 made 10 years ago
Sher, your recipe looks just like Olympia Bree....Go Oly!!!
Honest Officer, I swear to Drunk, I am Not God.
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Post #2072 made 10 years ago
Sh3rlock, this is the thread to post your BIABacus file, so why not post it?
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Post #2073 made 10 years ago
This is my first attempt using BIABacus. I'm trying to clone Wadworth 6X British Best Bitter. Does this look right?
My brew kettle is 38.4175 cm (15.125 inches) internal diameter and 34.925 cm (13.75 inches) internal height - Capacity 39.75 Liters or 42 US Quarts with straight sides
Propane burner outside and employ a wort chiller
Condition mash water by diluting tap water with 25% Distilled water and adding gypsum and lactic acid
Primary Fermenter: Plastic bucket 22 Liters or 6 US Gallons
Secondary Fermenter: Glass carboy 22 Liters or 6 US Gallons
Wadworth 6X Profile from website: 93% Pale Malt, 4% Crystal Malt, 3% Cane Sugar, IBU 23, SRM 16, OG 1.040 FG 1.008 ABV 4.3%. I used BeerSmith to create the recipe.
Wadworth 6X BIABacus Report
Brewer: Chuck McIntosh
Style: British Best Bitter
Source Recipe Link: BeerSmith
ABV: 4.3% (assumes any priming sugar used is diluted.)
Original Gravity (OG): 1.042
IBU's (Tinseth): 23
Bitterness to Gravity Ratio: 0.55
Colour: 14-16 SRM
Kettle Efficiency (as in EIB and EAW): 86.1 %
Efficiency into Fermentor (EIF): 77.5 %
Note: This is a Multi-Step Mash - See 'Mash Steps' Below
Times and Temperatures
Mash: 90 mins at 66.7 C = 152 F
Boil: 90 min
Ferment: 14 days at 20 C = 68 F
Volumes & Gravities
Total Water Needed (TWN): 32.92 L = 8.70 G
Volume into Boil (VIB): 31.48 L = 8.32 G @ 1.03
Volume of Ambient Wort (VAW): 23.11 L = 5.55 G @ 1.042
Volume into Fermentor (VIF): 20.82 L = 5.5 G @ 1.042
Volume into Packaging (VIP): 20.05 L = 5.3 G @ 1.011 assuming apparent attenuation of 75 %
The Grain Bill (Also includes extracts, sugars and adjuncts)
86.5% 2-Row Pale Malt (6 EBC = 4 SRM) 3268 grams = 7.2 pounds
5.9% Crystal Malt 120 (236.45 EBC = 120 SRM) 223 grams = 0.49 pounds
3% Black Patent (985 EBC = 500 SRM) 114 grams = 0.25 pounds
4.6% Invert Sugar 173 grams = 0.38 pounds! (Boiled Only)
The Hop Bill (Based on Tinseth Formula)
18 IBU Fuggles Pellets (4.5%AA) 34 grams = 1.198 ounces at 60 mins
5 IBU Goldings Pellets (5%AA) 17 grams = 0.599 ounces at 15 mins
Mash Steps
Mash Type: Multi-Step Mash - First Step: Saccharifiaction for 90 mins at 66.7 C = 152 F
Strike Water Needed (SWN): 33.57 L = 8.87 G 69.2 C = 156.6 F
Mash Out for 10 mins at 75.556 C = 168.0008 F
Chilling & Hop Management Methods
Hopsock Used: Y (Pulled 0 mins after boil end.)
Whirlpool: 0 mins after boil end.
Chilling Method: Wort Chiller (Employed 5 mins after boil end.)
Fermentation & Conditioning
Fermentation: London Ale Wyeast 1028 for 14 days at 20 C = 68 F
Diacetyl Rest: 14 days at 20 C = 68 F
Secondary Used: Y
Crash-Chilled: Y
Filtered: N
Req. Volumes of CO2: 1.2
Serving Temp: 5 C = 41 F
Condition for 14 days.
Special Instructions/Notes on this Beer
Add 1/2 Whirlflock tablet 5 min before flameout - Add one white oak honeycomb stick for 7 days in secondary - Add 1/2 tsp gelatin in keg if necessary for fining
My brew kettle is 38.4175 cm (15.125 inches) internal diameter and 34.925 cm (13.75 inches) internal height - Capacity 39.75 Liters or 42 US Quarts with straight sides
Propane burner outside and employ a wort chiller
Condition mash water by diluting tap water with 25% Distilled water and adding gypsum and lactic acid
Primary Fermenter: Plastic bucket 22 Liters or 6 US Gallons
Secondary Fermenter: Glass carboy 22 Liters or 6 US Gallons
Wadworth 6X Profile from website: 93% Pale Malt, 4% Crystal Malt, 3% Cane Sugar, IBU 23, SRM 16, OG 1.040 FG 1.008 ABV 4.3%. I used BeerSmith to create the recipe.
Wadworth 6X BIABacus Report
Brewer: Chuck McIntosh
Style: British Best Bitter
Source Recipe Link: BeerSmith
ABV: 4.3% (assumes any priming sugar used is diluted.)
Original Gravity (OG): 1.042
IBU's (Tinseth): 23
Bitterness to Gravity Ratio: 0.55
Colour: 14-16 SRM
Kettle Efficiency (as in EIB and EAW): 86.1 %
Efficiency into Fermentor (EIF): 77.5 %
Note: This is a Multi-Step Mash - See 'Mash Steps' Below
Times and Temperatures
Mash: 90 mins at 66.7 C = 152 F
Boil: 90 min
Ferment: 14 days at 20 C = 68 F
Volumes & Gravities
Total Water Needed (TWN): 32.92 L = 8.70 G
Volume into Boil (VIB): 31.48 L = 8.32 G @ 1.03
Volume of Ambient Wort (VAW): 23.11 L = 5.55 G @ 1.042
Volume into Fermentor (VIF): 20.82 L = 5.5 G @ 1.042
Volume into Packaging (VIP): 20.05 L = 5.3 G @ 1.011 assuming apparent attenuation of 75 %
The Grain Bill (Also includes extracts, sugars and adjuncts)
86.5% 2-Row Pale Malt (6 EBC = 4 SRM) 3268 grams = 7.2 pounds
5.9% Crystal Malt 120 (236.45 EBC = 120 SRM) 223 grams = 0.49 pounds
3% Black Patent (985 EBC = 500 SRM) 114 grams = 0.25 pounds
4.6% Invert Sugar 173 grams = 0.38 pounds! (Boiled Only)
The Hop Bill (Based on Tinseth Formula)
18 IBU Fuggles Pellets (4.5%AA) 34 grams = 1.198 ounces at 60 mins
5 IBU Goldings Pellets (5%AA) 17 grams = 0.599 ounces at 15 mins
Mash Steps
Mash Type: Multi-Step Mash - First Step: Saccharifiaction for 90 mins at 66.7 C = 152 F
Strike Water Needed (SWN): 33.57 L = 8.87 G 69.2 C = 156.6 F
Mash Out for 10 mins at 75.556 C = 168.0008 F
Chilling & Hop Management Methods
Hopsock Used: Y (Pulled 0 mins after boil end.)
Whirlpool: 0 mins after boil end.
Chilling Method: Wort Chiller (Employed 5 mins after boil end.)
Fermentation & Conditioning
Fermentation: London Ale Wyeast 1028 for 14 days at 20 C = 68 F
Diacetyl Rest: 14 days at 20 C = 68 F
Secondary Used: Y
Crash-Chilled: Y
Filtered: N
Req. Volumes of CO2: 1.2
Serving Temp: 5 C = 41 F
Condition for 14 days.
Special Instructions/Notes on this Beer
Add 1/2 Whirlflock tablet 5 min before flameout - Add one white oak honeycomb stick for 7 days in secondary - Add 1/2 tsp gelatin in keg if necessary for fining
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Last edited by cfmcintosh on 27 Feb 2015, 02:35, edited 6 times in total.
Post #2074 made 10 years ago
Chuck McIntosh, are you referencing this website? ; http://www.britishbrewer.com/tag/wadworth-6x-clone/
MS
MS
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Post #2075 made 10 years ago
sh3rlock, I find that you only need 3745 grams of grain bill to make your 20.82L VIF.
With a smaller kettle, you will need to withhold 8L of water initially from the mash. You'll add 2.5L B4 the boil and add 5.5L into the fermenter.
I can provide additional info/help, if needed.
MS
With a smaller kettle, you will need to withhold 8L of water initially from the mash. You'll add 2.5L B4 the boil and add 5.5L into the fermenter.
I can provide additional info/help, if needed.
MS
Last edited by Mad_Scientist on 13 Jan 2017, 08:32, edited 7 times in total.
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