Okay, the percentages in the original recipe are percentages of the extract (sugar contribution), not percentages by weight. Use the first file, the one where you inputted the weights.

In Section D, the VAW of the original recipe is not 23 litres. It is 25 litres. There is 23 litres VIF - Volume into Fermentor (BrewBuilder's Knockout) and 2 litres of KFL - Kettle to Fermentor Loss (BrewBuilder's Kettle Loss). Add these two together to get 'VAW - Volume of Ambient Wort'. (Have a read of this and the two stickie in this forum that contain the word integrity.). So change the first line of Section D to 25 litres.

Don't tweak the hops! Now that you have the correct VAW in Section D, if you put the original hops on the left, the BIABacus will give you the correct hops to use on the right.

The EBC (colour) thing in BrewBuilder is also a contribution not the actual colour of the grain so I have typed in normal EBC's for you in the file below. These are approximations. You'd have to contact Mark for the actuals although it is unimportant.

I have also changed your weights from kilos to grams eg 4.53 to 4530

As for Whirfloc and BrewBright, I would use one or the other not both.

Also change your mash time to 90 minutes (I would assume at about 66 C) and your boil time to 90 minutes.

Stone and Wood Pacific Ale is a bloody nice beer .
PP

Rick wrote:I did some digging, and here's what I found ...

Looks to me like actual OG is more like 1.064, and the champagne yeast kicks the attenuation up to 90% or so to hit that 7.6%ABV.

So yeah, this recipe you found isn't a very convincing clone.

http://brooklynbrewery.com/brooklyn-bee" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; ... orachi-ace

Spec Sheet

Style: Single-hop Farmhouse Saison
Malts: German two-row Pilsner Malt
Additions: Brewer’s white sugar
Hops: Washington-grown Sorachi Ace
Yeast: Our special Belgian strain (primary); Champagne yeast (secondary)
Alcohol by Volume: 7.6%
IBUs: 34
Original Gravity: 15.7° Plato
Calories: 208 (per 12oz)
Food Pairings: Pork buns, fish tacos, shrimp, smoked salmon, sushi, prosciutto, curries, salads, grilled meats and fresh goat cheese (such as Westfield Bulk Chevre.)
Availability: Year-round
Format: 750ml cork-finished bottles and (new in 2012) draft
Awards

So Rick, I guess it's not going to taste much like the original. That's a bummer as I didn't mean to waste your time with this.

Dazzbrew wrote:Hi PP, thanks very much!
I should have picked the VAW thing, it makes perfect sence.
Not that the finished colour of the beers i make (up until now being can brews) are important to me as the most important goal for me is to make great tasting beer, if i search the net hard enough will i find a list of common malt EBC's on the net somewhere?
Ah, offcourse, it says grams at the top, not kilograms, ha ha!
I think maybe Mark preferes to sell Brewbright instead of Whirfloc as it's the one listed in the recipe. Does Brewbright come in a tablet ie 3 x tablets needed? or is it a weight measure? (what does the 3 x in the original recipe mean?).
Will my mash temp be 66C for every beer or does it vary depending on what the beer is?
I really like Pacific Ale also, im glad that it seems fairly simple to make (not too many different ingredients or hop additions). Before i saw the recipe i would never have thought that would be the case, once again, thanks for your time/help.

No probs. The VAW thing is hard to clue on to at first because it is usually very hard, often impossible number to find in other programs and recipe reports. Colour formulas are very inaccurate so they are very unimportant. As for common malts,here is a list but all the colours are in lovibond. Fairly nicely laid out though. I'm not familiar with BrewBright but on the little research I have done, looks good! Check with him on the 3 x.

Mash temps vary on the style of beer. I think 66C will be fine for that beer.

Say hi to Mark form me when you next see him.

shetc wrote:

Rick wrote:I did some digging, and here's what I found ...

Looks to me like actual OG is more like 1.064, and the champagne yeast kicks the attenuation up to 90% or so to hit that 7.6%ABV.

So yeah, this recipe you found isn't a very convincing clone.

http://brooklynbrewery.com/brooklyn-bee" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; ... orachi-ace

Spec Sheet

Style: Single-hop Farmhouse Saison
Malts: German two-row Pilsner Malt
Additions: Brewer’s white sugar
Hops: Washington-grown Sorachi Ace
Yeast: Our special Belgian strain (primary); Champagne yeast (secondary)
Alcohol by Volume: 7.6%
IBUs: 34
Original Gravity: 15.7° Plato
Calories: 208 (per 12oz)
Food Pairings: Pork buns, fish tacos, shrimp, smoked salmon, sushi, prosciutto, curries, salads, grilled meats and fresh goat cheese (such as Westfield Bulk Chevre.)
Availability: Year-round
Format: 750ml cork-finished bottles and (new in 2012) draft
Awards

So Rick, I guess it's not going to taste much like the original. That's a bummer as I didn't mean to waste your time with this.

not a problem, this is precisely what this thread is for! We both learned something here I'm sure, that alone is worth the time to me.

You have a few options here. The recipe you brought in initially, you can brew it as is or tweak it. Whatever you do will provide a starting point, and then you can use your tastebuds to guide you.

Make it your own? I do think there's enough information here to get you in the ballpark.

krazypara3165 wrote:...I am looking for 23l of wort is there anyone that could point me to the right direction?

Welcome to the forum krazy . I think I can probably help you here.

The first thing to get your head around in home brewing is that on the 'numbers' side of things, there is a lot of garbage information floating around. Let's see if the following makes some sense....

If someone put out a sign in front of their petrol station which said, "Buy my petrol and you will all be able to drive exactly 500 kms before you run out of fuel," what would you think?

A small car with a small engine is obviously going to go a lot further than a V8 given the same amount of fuel. Also, if both cars will be heading downhill, they will both get a lot further than if heading uphill.

Most recipes on the internet, even given by 'experienced' brewers, ignore your local terrain and the car you drive. They just assume that you drive the same car as them and live in the same terrain.

...

In this scenario, there are several problems. Dennis might be an experienced brewer but that doesn't mean he can teach you how to drive.

For example, he hasn't really told you how far he drove on that 5kg of fuel. He sort of says he drove 23 kms litres but we can't know if that was uphill or downhill and if he waited at any or a lot of traffic lights or even if he used high or low octane fuel. The information is simply not there.

...

The above deals with grain. We now need to move to hops. Dennis has written that he used 15 grams of Galaxy hops at 90 minutes.

If I asked you to throw in 15 garlics (the whole bulb) into a cooking recipe, wouldn't you ask me, "Do you mean weak or really potent garlic bulbs?" It's exactly the same with hops. This year we might have a very weak crop and the next year might be very potent. Weight alone means nothing.

That last paragraph is actually a gross oversimplification as we don't really even know the 'true' volume (Volume of Ambient Wort) that the 'garlic was applied to.

So, re-consider Dennis .

...

When you mention that you can't get your head around the BIABacus, in some ways that is good and in some ways bad. It's good in the way that the BIABacus is the only program that will make you stop and ask the right questions whihc you have done . But it is bad because the help for the BIABacus has not yet been written .

For example, your last question about your 33 litre Burco and you wanting to be able to get 23 litres of wort is a great one that the BIABacus can answer. No other program can do it. This question is like me saying to you, "Someone has given me 10 litres of fuel and I will be driving to Whereverland."

The real question, and what Dennis and most other software do not ask is, "Where do you want to go and is it uphill or downhill?" These are the proper questions. Ask them and then we can tell you how much fuel you will need to get there.

Also study this thread. Dennis is not alone.

And welcome to the forum ,
PP

krazy, I don't think you are understanding all that...

The BIABacus and this whole site is about education and making things very simple. It's hard uneducating and re-educating though. You say a simple brew day should be simple and I totally agree.

If you, when you started out in brewing, started on this site, you wouldn't be struggling.

This site, and no other, is actually very easy...

Tell us what gravity beer you want.
Tell us what bitterness beer you want.
Tell us how much beer you want.
And we'll tell you the ingredients you need to buy.

Other sites work on the exact opposite.

And many/most of them have wrong formulas. Pretty much all have wrong terminology.

Turning a Simple Brew Day into a Complex One.

The BIABacus can make your brew day totally simple. All you need to know is how much grain to use, how many hops and how much water. That's it. There is no need to go any further.

....

Just re-read that paragraph above please.

...

The problem with the BIABacus is that it can actually do a lot more and shows it all on one page.

The decision that any brewer has to make is as to whether they want to follow advice/recipes blindly or really understand them. I think this is the only forum that can currently do the latter.

Hi Krazy,

If i could offer you advice i would suggest download a copy of the BJCP (Beer Judge Certificate Program) Guidelines. This will contain most beer styles guidelines and give you a great starting point as to where you want your recipe to go. From what i see above your doing a reasonably hoppy pale ale so could easily fall under the American Pale Ale category.
From the BJCP guidelines it would tell you that these are generally
Vital Statistics: OG: 1.045 – 1.060
IBUs: 30 – 45 FG: 1.010 – 1.015
SRM: 5 – 14 ABV: 4.5 – 6.2%.

If you want to keep it simple i would suggest go bang in the middle of all them figures. Should turn out nice. I wouldnt worry about color for a while. Get your head around the OG, IBU's and what they will mean to the finished product.

Post up what you have filled in so far and we'll be happy to help with filling out the rest.
The thing to remember when you get to brewing though is to change the AA on the hops to what you actually. That applies to where you use Biabacus or Beersmith or whatever else.
Like i say have a stab at it and if i need any info ill pm you.

Ok,

No worries.
Couple of items Ive noticed.
When entering the OG. Enter in format of 1.050. This is the common terminology for Gravity readings.
I worked out the IBU with these hops at above times to be 54IBU. This is filled in in Section D. This is what Pistol Patch was getting at earlier. If you want to copy a recipe you will want to know a few things in order to copy it. The target IBU is one of them.

The next point is i would add bittering hops at 60mins. Wont get a whole lot of extra bitterness with a 90 min addition.

From there it is a matter of filling in sections G & H.

As you can see the red warning stating that the mash volume exceeds the kettle size in section B. As you are not doing full volume mash this is where Section W will come into play. This is simply a matter of inputting the amount of water held back from them mash and entered be it to the boil or sparge or whatever your doing. In this case i would enter 5L added as a sparge in section W. This should see the warning go away and effect the mash volume etc.

Hopefully this is making some sense. If not hit me up for a please explain.
Cheers

You will see a red warning message in section B if you are approaching or exceeding the limit of your kettle. What you do with the additional 5 liters is up to you. You could use a second pot if you have one large enough to do a sparge in. Or you could just add it to your kettle when you have the space. Using a second pot will be more hassle, but will help with efficiency because the grain will have access to more water.

Is this a kit that you bought, or do you still need to purchase the ingredients? If it's a kit, then I would just brew with what you have.
You could also make up the difference with some DME/LME.

Have you decided whether you will do a sparge or kettle top up? The answer will affect your grain bill/OG. If you think the store will modify the kit for you, then you might as well.

I'll just jump in here quickly as this is getting complicated and it should be very simple. Short on time but I've had a bit of a look at the files above and have made sense of the original recipe.

Basically when you have a kit (in other words, you have a fixed quantity of grain etc, you need to fiddle with the desired Volume into Fermentor so that the right hand side of Section C matches the grain weight you are buying.

I've done this. You will get 23 litres at the end of the boil and 19 litres (probably more) into your fermentor with the kit.

Don't worry about sparging as the most you can sparge with is 6 litres (otherwise your Volume into Boil will be too much) and this will only gain you a few glasses of beer compared to just adding those 6 litres before the boil after you pull your bag. After that, add 2 litres during the boil. This will keep you from having your kettle full to the brim.

(By the way, the above cannot be done in BeerSmith .)

Here's the file of what you should do
PP

(Version PR 1.3 is very old btw)