Hello,
I am into my third AG brew now and I think Im getting the hang of it. The other day I added a yeast starter to my brew and I was wondering if Biabacus can help me compensate with some more grain and hops to reach the desired IBU and OG?
,Olle
Post #2 made 12 years ago
Olleman
If you add your starter in section W (water added to fermenter) you will see a slight change in the grain bill that you will use. I believe that's what you want.
Majorphill
If you add your starter in section W (water added to fermenter) you will see a slight change in the grain bill that you will use. I believe that's what you want.
Majorphill
Post #3 made 12 years ago
But that assumes I add water with no added sugar or DME (OG 1.000). A Yeast starter is often somewhere near OG 1.040.majorphill wrote:Olleman
If you add your starter in section W (water added to fermenter) you will see a slight change in the grain bill that you will use. I believe that's what you want.
Majorphill
,Olle
Last edited by olleman on 26 May 2014, 20:24, edited 1 time in total.
Post #4 made 12 years ago
Olleman - we may need a little more info here then.
Are you adding your yeast starter to your wort before, after, or mid way during "propagation"?
If after propagation then majorphill's advice is still good.
If not, we would need to know what residual sugar was remaining in your starter and at what volume to compensate.
This is presuming you are using a similar wort & yeast. If not, then that extra info may help us too.
Are you adding your yeast starter to your wort before, after, or mid way during "propagation"?
If after propagation then majorphill's advice is still good.
If not, we would need to know what residual sugar was remaining in your starter and at what volume to compensate.
This is presuming you are using a similar wort & yeast. If not, then that extra info may help us too.
G B
I spent lots of money on booze, birds and fast cars. The rest I squandered
I've stopped drinking, but only when I'm asleep
I ONCE gave up women and alcohol - it was the worst 20 minutes of my life
I spent lots of money on booze, birds and fast cars. The rest I squandered
I've stopped drinking, but only when I'm asleep
I ONCE gave up women and alcohol - it was the worst 20 minutes of my life
-
- SVA Brewer With Over 100 Brews From Great Britain
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Post #5 made 12 years ago
Hmm my main reason for doing this is to have a good tool to calculate OG and IBU and in the end the ABV of the brew. If im adding a starter that is half way fermented or fermented all the way shouldnt really make a difference since the final ABV would be affected the same way, right?mally wrote:Olleman - we may need a little more info here then.
Are you adding your yeast starter to your wort before, after, or mid way during "propagation"?
If after propagation then majorphill's advice is still good.
If not, we would need to know what residual sugar was remaining in your starter and at what volume to compensate.
This is presuming you are using a similar wort & yeast. If not, then that extra info may help us too.
Olle
Last edited by olleman on 27 May 2014, 02:15, edited 1 time in total.
Post #6 made 12 years ago
I tend to let my starters settle, decant most of the wort then swirl and pitch the rest. I don't class the starter wort as beer and want as little of it as possible in the finished product. This is because I don't necessarily ferment my starters at the same temperature as my beer and the flavour profile won't be the same.
Yeasty
Yeasty
Why is everyone talking about "Cheese"
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Post #7 made 12 years ago
I would agree IF your starter & wort are at the same OG, and are using the same wort (identical fermentability), as you have just got an efective "not, partially, or fully fermented" wort addition. However, if you were using a 1.040 starter in a 1.090 RIS for example, then you will have some dilution (of OG). Hence my reason for asking for a bit more info.olleman wrote:If im adding a starter that is half way fermented or fermented all the way shouldnt really make a difference since the final ABV would be affected the same way, right?
In your original question, you asked to compensate for IBU & OG, so I presumed your wort & starter were different gravities & there were no hops in the starter?
If the gravities & fermentability were the same, then you only need to compensate for the IBU's.
I hope you can see where I am heading in requesting a little more info?
Last edited by mally on 27 May 2014, 03:30, edited 1 time in total.
G B
I spent lots of money on booze, birds and fast cars. The rest I squandered
I've stopped drinking, but only when I'm asleep
I ONCE gave up women and alcohol - it was the worst 20 minutes of my life
I spent lots of money on booze, birds and fast cars. The rest I squandered
I've stopped drinking, but only when I'm asleep
I ONCE gave up women and alcohol - it was the worst 20 minutes of my life
-
- SVA Brewer With Over 100 Brews From Great Britain
-
Post #8 made 12 years ago
Absolutely, the starter had an approximate OG of 1.040 and no hops boiled with it. The main wort had an OG of 1.060 and a calculated IBU of 40.mally wrote:I would agree IF your starter & wort are at the same OG, and are using the same wort (identical fermentability), as you have just got an efective "not, partially, or fully fermented" wort addition. However, if you were using a 1.040 starter in a 1.090 RIS for example, then you will have some dilution (of OG). Hence my reason for asking for a bit more info.olleman wrote:If im adding a starter that is half way fermented or fermented all the way shouldnt really make a difference since the final ABV would be affected the same way, right?
In your original question, you asked to compensate for IBU & OG, so I presumed your wort & starter were different gravities & there were no hops in the starter?
If the gravities & fermentability were the same, then you only need to compensate for the IBU's.
I hope you can see where I am heading in requesting a little more info?
I know of course how to calculate the compensation of hops and malts in the main brew but I was wondering if there's a more automated method of doing this with the help of biabacus which I've grown very fond of btw
.
Last edited by olleman on 27 May 2014, 04:30, edited 1 time in total.
Post #9 made 12 years ago
Not beer then.olleman wrote:Absolutely, the starter had an approximate OG of 1.040 and no hops boiled with it.
Seriously is this something to worry about ? The whole point of a starter is to ensure that you have the correct quantity of health ready to go yeast for your size of brew/OG. The wort its grown in has done its job and can be discarded.
Yeasty
Last edited by Yeasty on 27 May 2014, 05:10, edited 1 time in total.
Why is everyone talking about "Cheese"
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Post #10 made 12 years ago
I agree With Yeasty, its negligible and not even worth worrying about.
For me I get my Starter going 2 - 3 days prior to brewday. Usually a 1 litre starter. (Unless using Dry yeast then I dont bother with a Starter)
On the morning of my Brewday I take the Starter off the Striplate, and let it sit in the fridge. The yeast starts to drop out of suspension. Then when I am ready to pitch I decant off the wort from the Starter, Pitch the Yeast slurry and you are away.
So in Reality maybe pitching 200mls in a 23Litres batch - most of that is yeast, maybe 100ml of left over wort - its nothing.
For me I get my Starter going 2 - 3 days prior to brewday. Usually a 1 litre starter. (Unless using Dry yeast then I dont bother with a Starter)
On the morning of my Brewday I take the Starter off the Striplate, and let it sit in the fridge. The yeast starts to drop out of suspension. Then when I am ready to pitch I decant off the wort from the Starter, Pitch the Yeast slurry and you are away.
So in Reality maybe pitching 200mls in a 23Litres batch - most of that is yeast, maybe 100ml of left over wort - its nothing.
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