My first ever brew.

Post #1 made 12 years ago
Hi

Over the last week I have collected my brew bits and pieces. Now the time has come to figure out what beer to try to make.
I found one for Schwartzbier on this site. It is from PistolPatch.
--
Style: Schwartzbier. This recipe can be brewed equally as well as a lager or an ale.
Name:
Yeast: If brewing as a lager use Saflager S23 (or a German or Bohemian liquid equivalent). If brewing as an ale use US-056.
Original Gravity: The Calculator = 1.048
Total IBU's: The Calculator = 23.2 IBU's
Colour (EBC):
Efficiency at End of Boil: 79%
Mash Length (mins): 90
Boil Length (mins): 90
Your Vessel Type (Pot/Keggle/Urn): Pot
Source/Credits: Various
Notes/Instructions/Comments: If fermenting with US-56, ferment on the low side of 16 C to 18C. Brewed as an ale, this beer can be fermented and ready for consumption in a very short time.

Volumes etc.

Your Vessel Volume (L or gal): 70
Your Vessel Diameter (cm or in): 45
Water Required (L or gal): 40.41 L
Mash Temperature (C or F): 66 C
Volume at End of Boil (L or gal): 26.84 L
Volume into Fermenter (L or gal): 23 L
Brew Length (L or gal): 21.3 L
Total Grain Bill (g or oz): 5356 g

Grains - Colours - Percentages and/or Weight (g or oz)

Grain 1: Munich 1 = 3000 g
Grain 2: Weyermann Pilsner Malt = 1900 g
Grain 3: Chocolate Malt = 200 g
Grain 4: CaraMalt = 150 g
Grain 5: Carafa = 100 g
Grain 6: Roasted Barley 100 g

Hops - AA% - IBUs - Weight (g or oz) at Minutes

(IBU's below are as according to The Calculator)

Hop 1: Hallertau - 4.0% - 16.5 IBU - 45 g at 80 min
Hop 2: Hallertau - 4.0% - 6.3 IBU - 30 g at 20 min
Hop 3: Hallertau - 4.0% - 0.3 IBU - 20 g at 1 min

---

I was wondering if the recipe would work if I changed the following:

1. Grain 5: Carafa = 100 g --> Thomas Fawcet Roasted Wheat
2. Hop 1-3: Hallertau 4.0% --> Tettnanger pellet 3.8%
3 yeast : US-56 --> Danstar - Nottingham Ale

The reason for the change is that it seem hard to get the original ingredients here in Finland.

I will post my BIABacus summary when I get my pot so I can measure the diameter, hope tomorrow :pray:


-Yngve

Post #2 made 12 years ago
It will work but just taste a bit different. Don't worry it will be a good beer!
tap 1 Raspberry wine
tap 2 Bourbon Barrel Porter
tap 3 Czech Pilsner
tap 4 Triple IPA 11% ABV

Pipeline: Mulled Cider 10% ABV

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Post #3 made 12 years ago
Welcome to the forum Yngve :salute:,

I think all your substitutions will be great except for the Nottingham yeast. We want a clean, neutral yeast for this beer. There are many choices in the dried yeast for this recipe. We can use the ale yeast US-56 and ferment at 15 C or you could go for Saflager W34-70 and ferment at 10 C.

This is a lager style and using Nottingham will throw it I think.

Good luck on the pot arriving!!!!
PP
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Post #4 made 12 years ago
i've seen many references to using Nottingham at a cold fermentation temp to produce a "pseudo lager".
Cube:
fermenter: Sourdough Spelt Ale, Classic Lambic, Oud Brune, Barrel Aged Belgian Dubbel
Kegs: Bob's Black IPA, Blanc Blond, Soda...
to be brewed:

Post #5 made 12 years ago
Hi All

Thanks for the reply's. I can get hold of Saflager W34-70 but currently cannot ferment at colder than 18 C, is this to warm for a Schwartz?

I have an old refrigerator that I will rebuild to a fermentation chamber. Maybe i should go for a Brown Ale for the first brew....

No sight of the pot yet :(

Post #6 made 12 years ago
yeriksen,

It is better to walk before you run. The whole premise for BIAB is "Keep It Simple Stupid" (KISS) It may be in your best interest to make a simpler beer to start off? Getting the process right is half the battle. On my first BIAB I panicked over something and dumped the hops into the mash? Why I did that I can't remember. The beer turned out just fine and I have been going gangbusters ever since!

As I look at it again it is not that complicated of a beer so as long as you are ready, go for it. I would wait for the pot. It makes boiling so much simpler. :lol:
tap 1 Raspberry wine
tap 2 Bourbon Barrel Porter
tap 3 Czech Pilsner
tap 4 Triple IPA 11% ABV

Pipeline: Mulled Cider 10% ABV

http://cheesestradamus.com/ Brewers challenge!
    • SVA Brewer With Over 100 Brews From United States of America

Post #7 made 12 years ago
yeriksen wrote:I can get hold of Saflager W34-70 but currently cannot ferment at colder than 18 C
This is definitely too hot for that yeast but it would be fine for the US-05 on this recipe.

What I am finding strange Yngve is why you can't get hold of the US-05. I'm saying this because it would be the biggest selling dried yeast there is. I can't imagine any shop stocking W34 and not stocking US-05.

:scratch:
Last edited by PistolPatch on 08 Jul 2013, 21:51, edited 2 times in total.
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Post #9 made 12 years ago
Hi

Finally my pot is here, so now I can do all the water needed calculation with BIABcaus. No qjuestion can I post the full xls here so somebody can check if I got the water needs rigth?

Cheers
Yngve

Post #10 made 12 years ago
Good stuff Yngve. I'm following this thread so it will be fine to post the file here.

Glad to see you got the yeast sorted and that your kettle has arrived :party: :party: :party:.
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Post #11 made 12 years ago
Hi.

Was putting my equipment together yesterday and also finished rebuilding my old refrigerate to a fermenting chamber. It keeps within +/- 0.5 deg C from 5C to a bit over ambient :) . Also filled in the BIABcaus.

I will test everything with just water and then try to make the Schwatzbier as in attachment. But sadly it has to wait will I take my family for vacation, the delay off pot did blow my schedule :sad:

Next "investigation" will be to fine out how to sanitizing my fermenting buckets taps (read the post that they may be a source of infections).

Anyway I again want to thank for the excellent forum and all the help.


Yngve
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Post #12 made 12 years ago
Yngve, you champion :champ: :champ: :champ:.

I have to race out the door but I just downloaded and checked your file and it is excellent. Tomorrow I'll actually post your file (without the substitutions) to the original Schwarzbier thread so thank you :salute:.

I could only find one very unimportant thing. In Section C, on the top line, you have 1.048 typed in twice. There is no need for the second one.

So, great job. The tettnanger will be fine as a substitute for the Hallertau. And it looks like with your new kettle you can handle a higher Volume into Fermentor if you want to.

Nice work ;)
PP

P.S. Just noticed a #VALUE error in the colour bit of Section C. Can't remember now what caused this but it's been fixed since then. I'll use the latest version when I post to the original thread.
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Post #13 made 12 years ago
Hi

Finally I got around to brew my first beer. The "outdoor sauna" I brew in smelled like my home town when they made beer there, I guess that is a good sign :)

I had some miss steps I will try to fix next time.

1. I was low on gravity into kettle (goal 1.035, measured 1.025-1.030) had some issue with the hydrometer sticking to the wall.
2. I used my potato masher inside and outside the bag (when rising the temp, it looks like I lost 1 C per 1/2 h), this transferred some grain to the outside of the bag.
3. I boiled for 20 min extra to compensate for the low gravity, but in the end I ended up with correct "EOBV-A" and a gravity of 1.042-1.046 (again some issue with the hydrometer).
4. I had a "LOT" of sediment in the beer and lost in total 7 liters before the worth was in the fermentor. I split the worth into two cubs of 10 liters and the next day both had more than 2 liters visible sediments in the bottom. The same was true in the kettle.

Is it normal that beer has that much sediment?

Anyway now the worth tasted good and is now bubbling away happy at 15C and I will bottle it in 14 days time.

Post #14 made 12 years ago
Hi

I think I will make my next bag from dobbed material and try to use leaf hops as a filter like in this thread. I have simulate type of hops filter in my kettle, so with a slow flow rate and leafs instead of pellet hops, I hope I get a clearer worth next time.
Last edited by yeriksen on 31 Jul 2013, 04:58, edited 2 times in total.

Post #15 made 12 years ago
Progress update.

The worth has been fermenting for 12 days now and the yeast has settled out on the bottom. The last couple of days there has been almost no bubbles so I took a gravity reading today morning. After shaking out the CO2 and let the foam settle the gravity was between 1.013 and 1.014. So i guess the worth is beer!

It did taste a bit bitter and sharp alcohol, and it is hazy. I was thinking to bottle the beer tomorrow and hope the taste will mellow out in a couples of weeks.

Should I condition the bottles on the same temp as I did the fermentation, i.e. 15 C?

The problems I had with reading the gravity before was caused by to narrow buret. For some reason all online shops was sold out of burets and no shop around here sold it, so in the end I made my own from transparent plastic tubing.
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Post #16 made 12 years ago
Yeriksen
Should I condition the bottles on the same temp as I did the fermentation, i.e. 15 C?
As long as the bottled beer is in the yeast's normal temperature range it will be OK. If you go a little high it is no problem. if you are to low it may take a long time to ferment enough for good carbonation? Don't worry about it! Good GOING!
Last edited by BobBrews on 09 Aug 2013, 20:18, edited 2 times in total.
tap 1 Raspberry wine
tap 2 Bourbon Barrel Porter
tap 3 Czech Pilsner
tap 4 Triple IPA 11% ABV

Pipeline: Mulled Cider 10% ABV

http://cheesestradamus.com/ Brewers challenge!
    • SVA Brewer With Over 100 Brews From United States of America

Post #18 made 12 years ago
One in the bottles and one in the fermenter.

I waited 2 more days and cheeked SG again and it was the same, so now the beer is on the bottles.

Made and other batch of Brown Ale and put it in the fermenter last night, first time with a liquid yest Wyeast 1098. This was a direct pitch yeast, so I did not make any started. No activity after 12 h, starting to get a bit nervous, but I guess I have to give it a day or two more before pitching a new yeast.

Anyway this time I used the hop strainer in my kettle and hop leaves (25 grams for 5 G), this made the beer much cleaner into the cubs and I was able to collected all the wort expected without almost any break material.

Post #19 made 12 years ago
yeriksen,
No activity after 12 hrs
:smoke:

Don't fret. Some time it takes a little longer to start. :sleep: Also I have had a few leaks in the cover where air leaked out and never went through the air lock. It looks like no activity but it's fermenting away! As long as your yeast is not shocked (or killed) with hot or cold wort you will be OK. By the time you read this it will be working away. The ultimate test is the hydrometer in a couple of weeks.
Last edited by BobBrews on 13 Aug 2013, 19:58, edited 2 times in total.
tap 1 Raspberry wine
tap 2 Bourbon Barrel Porter
tap 3 Czech Pilsner
tap 4 Triple IPA 11% ABV

Pipeline: Mulled Cider 10% ABV

http://cheesestradamus.com/ Brewers challenge!
    • SVA Brewer With Over 100 Brews From United States of America

Post #20 made 12 years ago
Update on Schwartzbier.

The Schwartzbier turned out really nice and tasty, I only have a few bottles left, which I will save for later, to see how it age. The Schwartzbier was actually so tasty that I thought my next brew a NC brow ale was watery, but yesterday my wife had a NC brown ale out on the town, and her comment was that my beer had more taste....

Post #21 made 12 years ago
yeriksen,

Sounds like you did OK! Remember that the "Mouth-feel" is effected by the mash temperature. With a little bit warmer mash you might have added that thickness (mouth-feel) that you needed?? Keep us informed on your next brew!
tap 1 Raspberry wine
tap 2 Bourbon Barrel Porter
tap 3 Czech Pilsner
tap 4 Triple IPA 11% ABV

Pipeline: Mulled Cider 10% ABV

http://cheesestradamus.com/ Brewers challenge!
    • SVA Brewer With Over 100 Brews From United States of America
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