First brew suggestions please!

Post #1 made 12 years ago
Hi all
Well the boiler arrived today and everything seems ok, the material for the bag should be here tomorrow so it's time to buy the mrs them chocolates :kisswink: .
The next thing is to decide on a recipe, and I'm hoping thats where you guys come in. I haven't got my head fully around formulating my own recipes yet so I'm looking for a fairly straight forward beginners pale ale.
Any suggestions welcome.
Cheers
Jools

Post #2 made 12 years ago
Jools,

Here is where you can start. http://www.northernbrewer.com/shop/brew ... grain-kits

Read the description and click on the name. Then click on "additional Information" The recipe is there. Save the .pdf file or read and print!
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Last edited by BobBrews on 12 Jun 2013, 04:12, edited 2 times in total.
tap 1 Raspberry wine
tap 2 Bourbon Barrel Porter
tap 3 Czech Pilsner
tap 4 Triple IPA 11% ABV

Pipeline: Mulled Cider 10% ABV

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Post #3 made 12 years ago
Hi Jools, Welcome to the forum.

Im new here too and did my first BIAB just 3 weeks ago.

Here is a link to the forum where my first BIABacus can be downloaded, If an IPA is something your interested in brewing (Scroll down to the second BIABacus I uploaded) http://www.biabrewer.info/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=2099. Its going to be another week before its ready to drink so I cant provide you with any tasting notes but it definitely smelt awesome when I was bottling it.

Zymeck Started a great topic with lots of pictures for his simple Marris Otter and Amarillo Hop recipe, this looks like a great first brew, nice and simple. http://www.biabrewer.info/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=2110

Good luck

Let us know how it goes.

Balli.

Post #4 made 12 years ago
Jools wrote:...I'm looking for a fairly straight forward beginners pale ale.
Jools, this is the perfect storm for you.

NRB's Amarillo APA is a crowd pleaser, my house beer, it's easy as and it is in the BIABacus :party:. If you are happy to go with it, then just go with that. If you need a hand understanding the BIABacus side, ask your questions here.

:peace:
PP
Last edited by PistolPatch on 12 Jun 2013, 18:48, edited 2 times in total.
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Post #6 made 12 years ago
Thanks for the advice guys.
Looks like NRB's Amarillo APA is a good place to start - thanks PistolPatch.
Think I need to get my head round this BIABacus thing though. At the moment it all looks a little confusing. Do I just put my boiler size in (40ltrs) and follow the instructions? - Sorry but I'm a complete beginner :? .
Any pointers to help me understand BIABacus would be really handy.

Post #7 made 12 years ago
Hello Jools,

Yes, enter your kettle size in Section B and your desired VIF, if different. As is, this recipe exceeds your pot as the mash volume is 44.41 L, but don't worry, we will advise you on this.

Let us know what you want as your VIF first.

~richard
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Post #8 made 12 years ago
My interior pot size is 34cm diameter x 40cm height. BIABacus calculates 33.6 litre kettle capacity. I was hoping to do a VIF of around 23 litres. It looks like the mash volume exeeds the kettle size. Does that mean I should aim for a smaller VIF to suit my boiler?

Post #9 made 12 years ago
You can keep the VIF at 23 L.

You can move 6 L to Section W as 'Water Added Before the Boil'. Your grain bill increases and the efficiency decreases, but that is the trade off. This is called a MAXI BIAB.
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Post #11 made 12 years ago
Jools wrote:Will keep plugging away until it becomes clearer!
Hi there Jools. Don't worry, it's not as hard as it looks ;). Seeing as we haven't written the process down as yet of how to change an existing BIABacus recipe to suit your own equipment let's have a crack here.

I am going to attach a BIABacus file here for you. It is version 1.3A which is exactly the same as 1.3 except one of the warnings that went AWOL has been re-instated.
BIABacus PR1.3A - American Pale Ale - NRB's Amarillo APA - jools.xls
The notes below might look long but it is all pretty quick and easy stuff to do. Just focus on the red circles and ask questions on anything that isn't clear.

[center]PART 1 - Initial Set-Up[/center]

Step 1 - Fill in Section B (Completed)

You have put in your kettle height and diameter and you have also typed in s desired VIF. Simple!

Step 2 - Look for Volume Warnings (Completed)

The first warning you would have noticed would have been at the bottom of Section B where it would have said, WARNING: Mash volume exceeds kettle size. There are several ways to get rid of this warning. For example you can reduce the Desired Volume into Fermentor in Section B and/or hold back some water from the mash by using Section W as Mad-Scientist suggested.

To make things comfortable for you, I have not only put 6 L (1.59 gal) beside 'Water Added Before the Boil' in Section W as suggested by Mad-Scientist but I have also reduced your 'Desired Volume into Fermentor' in Section B to 20.5 l (5.42 Gal). This still gives you 19 L or 5 Gal to put into a keg or bottles.

Step 3 - Look for Other Warnings (Completed)

At the bottom of Section K, you will see, Advanced trub management has been used - See G and/or H. This is referring to the 'Y' that has been put beside 'Hopsock (Y/N) in Section G. I am leaving this in but ask questions on it if you like.

Step 4 - Remove any Substitutions in Sections C and D

In Sections C and D of the BIABacus for NRB's Amarillo APA, you would have noticed in your version, various things written under 'Substitutions' in sections C and D. Get rid of them as you will hopefully be using the same grains and hops as used in the original recipe.

[center]PART 2 - Ordering the Ingredients[/center]

Step 1 - Find out the AA% of the Hops you will Use

It is extremely unlikely that the hops you have on hand or will be buying, will have the same AA% as those in the original recipe. In your case Jools, you will need to find out the AA% of the AMarillo hops that you will be buying. Either ring your home brew shop or, if they are online, see if the AA% of their Amarillo hops is noted.

I am assuming that you have rung your shop and they have told you that their Amarillo hops have an AA% of 8.7%. I have typed this into the BIABacus file below but you will have to over-write those numbers.

Step 2 - Order the Weights listed under 'What you will use...'

Here's the weights that you should order (assuming your hops are 8.7% ;))...
BIABacus - Weights to Order.JPG
[center]PART 3 - On Brew Day[/center]

Step 1 - Prepare Strike Water

Let's have a look at how Section K looks...
BIABacus - TWN and SWN.jpg
If you were doing a pure BIAB (full-volume mash), the circled numbers, TWN and SWN, are really easy to explain. For example, in a full-volume brew, if TWN said 30 L, then SWN would say 30.59 L. Why? Because water swells as we heat it up. So, 30 L heated to mash temperature will, at that temperature, occupy 30.59 L of volume.

So far, so good? The BIABacus. at present, assumes that all new all-grainers will full-volume mash (pure BIAB). In reality, this is not the case. QUite a few first-timers, like yourself will not be full-volume mashing. In your case, you will be holding back 6 L from the mash. This makes TWN and SWN a bit harder to explain but not too hard I hope...

32.05 L - 6.0 L = 26.05 L In other words, 26.05 L of cold water is what you will need for your mash. Why then does SWN say 26.56 L? Well, when you heat your 26.05 L to mash temp, it will take up a volume of 26.56 L.

So, in summary, put 26.05 L into your kettle, heat it to mash temp at which stage, it will fill 26.56 L of your kettle. (See PostScript)

Step 2 - And On

Once you have heated up your water to strike temperature, all you have to do is add your bag and grain and follow the procedures explained in The Commentary. The only thing you have to remember that won't be in The Commentary is to add 6 L into the kettle after you pull your bag but before the boil starts.

If you have a saucepan that can bring 6 L of water to the boil then bring it to the boil on your stovetop as this will speed things up a bit.

Finally

If you get time to take some measurements, try and take the following measurements. Don't stress though. It's interesting if you can get them but it is nothing to worry about.

1. A volume and gravity reading before the boil - Cool your sample before measuring the gravity.

2. End of Boil Gravity (EOBG)- A gravity reading at the end of the boil. Cool the sample.

3. Kettle to Fermentor Loss (KFL) - After you drain your kettle, pour what is left into a jug and measure the volume.

4. Volume into Fermentor (VIF)

5. Original Gravity (OG) - Unless you diluted your wort after the boil or added DME, your OG should be the same as your EOBG. Doing a double check is interesting though as you'll sometimes find discrepancies.

:peace:
PP

PostScript

On the second sheet of the BIABacus, there is a 'Water/Wort Expansion and Contraction' section. In the BIABacus file I have attached here, it looks as follows...
2.JPG
You'll see a discrepancy between the 26.04 displayed here and the 26.05 I mentioned above. This is simply due to rounding. (i.e. Change 26.56 to 26.564 and 26.04 will then change to 26.05).
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Last edited by PistolPatch on 13 Jun 2013, 18:28, edited 2 times in total.
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Post #12 made 12 years ago
That's excellent PistolPatch, and much appreciated.

I looked at it last night and started to suss it out but your post has made things a lot clearer. I was thinking on my first brew to just reduce the VIF to about 20 litres to keep things simple, but if it's as easy as adding 6 litres of hot water after I've taken the bag out, then I'll go for 23.

It's going to be a couple of weeks before I get the time to do my first BIAB so I should be fairly clued up by then.

Can't wait to get going with this!

Thanks again

Post #13 made 12 years ago
If you are ordering the grains crushed, ask the supplier to double-crush them. If you are crushing the grains yourself, then run them through the grain mill twice. The finer crush will help your conversion and with BIAB you don't have to worry about a stuck sparge.

Post #14 made 12 years ago
No problems Jools,

I fully understand that there is a lot to take in above and the BIABacus at it's current stage without any great help can be very daunting. The PS and file I wrote in this post might help a bit - hopefully :scratch:.

smyrna has written above about double-crushing. This is appropriate in some cases but it very much depends on the mill being used. Too fine a crush is probably a much worse thing than a too coarse crush as there are no quality issues in a too coarse crush.

More info here
Last edited by PistolPatch on 16 Jun 2013, 21:24, edited 2 times in total.
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