maevans, That's right. Sparging is a pita, the further up you can add the water the better. 15% is acceptable, adding before the boil starts, for example, if not possible there, during the boil, if not then in the fermenter.
My file directly above this post is a MAXI.
Post #1152 made 12 years ago
Great, thanks - I was just considering a bit of a "dunk" style sparge. i was finding that without it the grain bill was increasing and I was concerned there'd be too much grain for too little water.Mad_Scientist wrote:maevans, That's right. Sparging is a pita, the further up you can add the water the better. 15% is acceptable, adding before the boil starts, for example, if not possible there, during the boil, if not then in the fermenter.
My file directly above this post is a MAXI.
It's a ruddy juggling act this!
I'll check out your file.
Last edited by maevans on 20 Mar 2013, 21:55, edited 7 times in total.
Post #1153 made 12 years ago
Hey Pistolpatch. I finally brewed that witbier you helped me with. I hit most of my volumes pretty darn close. However I missed my O.G. by ten points. (1.040 instead of 1.050). I plugged my info into an efficiency calculator and it said I had 68 percent efficiency. My efficiency for my first biab was about the same. So far I have only mashed for 60 minutes. Do you think if I did 90 it would make up for my low gravity? I also squeezed the grain bag this time which should have increased my efficiency somewhat, but I did not do a mash out. Should I at some point set my efficiency to 68 percent? Here is my biabicus with the actuals plugged in. Thanks for your help!
Metalhophead
Metalhophead
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Post #1154 made 12 years ago
The lower efficiency could be attributable to alot of different things.These things may or maynot be a permanent problem. I wouldn't worry about it unless it happens in repeated brews. You may want to lower your efficiency somewhat but don't jump all the way to the bottom. 2 pecentage points at a time is the most I would do.
Check your mash ph if you can and be super carefull with your grain weighing.
Check your mash ph if you can and be super carefull with your grain weighing.
AWOL
Post #1155 made 12 years ago
I've been trying for the last couple of days to do simple math (on paper) based on my BIABacus recipe 'actuals' from Sections L and M as per what I learned from stux on this thread here;
http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f36/biab-qu ... ost3542475
http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f36/biab-qu ... ost3542475
where you can get 'a neat double-check on your efficiency'.
My simple math is;
GIK * VIK is 60 * 12.76 = 766
EOBG * EOBV-A is 72 * 10.57 = 761
My efficiencies line up the best in Section P when I change my EOBG to 1.070, then I get a 76.4% and 76.8%.
I'm pretty sure I didn't get the best sample for my refractometer reading for the EOBG. My reading was actually a 1.074 which doesn't give me that 'neat double-check on efficiency'.
If based on my actual volumes being correct in Section L, can I conclude that my EOBG was 1.070 were they do match up the closest?
Is there another 'check point' we can use, such as the PLG reading multipled my some formula, to have '3 neat triple-check efficiency' checks?
http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f36/biab-qu ... ost3542475
http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f36/biab-qu ... ost3542475
where you can get 'a neat double-check on your efficiency'.
My simple math is;
GIK * VIK is 60 * 12.76 = 766
EOBG * EOBV-A is 72 * 10.57 = 761
My efficiencies line up the best in Section P when I change my EOBG to 1.070, then I get a 76.4% and 76.8%.
I'm pretty sure I didn't get the best sample for my refractometer reading for the EOBG. My reading was actually a 1.074 which doesn't give me that 'neat double-check on efficiency'.
If based on my actual volumes being correct in Section L, can I conclude that my EOBG was 1.070 were they do match up the closest?
Is there another 'check point' we can use, such as the PLG reading multipled my some formula, to have '3 neat triple-check efficiency' checks?
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Post #1156 made 12 years ago
at the suggestion of Yeasty I am posting my BIABabacus figures here to see if anyone can assist in determining why my OG figure didn't hit the expected 1.057.
The grain was cracked about two and half weeks ago and I didn't get the time to do the brew until yesterday. Oh, and was in sealed plastic bags. I do know that the grain is supposed to be used asap after cracking, so is this part of the problem?
The grain was cracked about two and half weeks ago and I didn't get the time to do the brew until yesterday. Oh, and was in sealed plastic bags. I do know that the grain is supposed to be used asap after cracking, so is this part of the problem?
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Last edited by Dadoffrosty on 24 Mar 2013, 03:46, edited 7 times in total.
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Post #1157 made 12 years ago
IS THIS the same recipe you are trying to convert?
Last edited by HbgBill on 24 Mar 2013, 05:51, edited 7 times in total.
Bill
Hop Song Brewing-Santa Rosa, California
Hop Song Brewing-Santa Rosa, California
Post #1158 made 12 years ago
Apologies guys that I still haven't answered some questions I promised I would. I have no idea when I will get the time sorry.
Just a few things on some more recent posts...
Always save the BIABacus as an .xls file
metalhophead - Your file is in .xlsx format instead of .xls and unfortunately a lot of it can't be read. The BIABacus must never be saved on any other format beside .xls otherwise it can become unreadable. See here for details.
Efficiency Questions
metalhophead and Dadoffrosty both have questions on their EIK. Firstly metal, you don't need to plug any numbers into an efficiency calculator as the BIABacus already has that in Section P. (See how it says 65.4% and 53.6% there?)
As for what to do when your EIK is low, you firstly need to realise that on a single brew, anything can go wrong. If your EIK or EIF (see here for what these terms mean) continue to be much lower from what the BIABacus predicts, then you will definitely have a problem of some sort.
Here is a list of some reasons why your EIK may be suffering. Many of these things can be checked before you brew again so go for it!
PP
Just a few things on some more recent posts...
Always save the BIABacus as an .xls file
metalhophead - Your file is in .xlsx format instead of .xls and unfortunately a lot of it can't be read. The BIABacus must never be saved on any other format beside .xls otherwise it can become unreadable. See here for details.
Efficiency Questions
metalhophead and Dadoffrosty both have questions on their EIK. Firstly metal, you don't need to plug any numbers into an efficiency calculator as the BIABacus already has that in Section P. (See how it says 65.4% and 53.6% there?)
As for what to do when your EIK is low, you firstly need to realise that on a single brew, anything can go wrong. If your EIK or EIF (see here for what these terms mean) continue to be much lower from what the BIABacus predicts, then you will definitely have a problem of some sort.
Here is a list of some reasons why your EIK may be suffering. Many of these things can be checked before you brew again so go for it!
PP
Last edited by PistolPatch on 26 Mar 2013, 17:41, edited 7 times in total.
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Post #1159 made 12 years ago
Thanks Pistolpatch. I will try another an see how I go.
Hi HbgBill -no it isn't that recipe, but one that Dave's Home Brew at North Sydney gave me out of a book he has. I just stole the name.
Hi HbgBill -no it isn't that recipe, but one that Dave's Home Brew at North Sydney gave me out of a book he has. I just stole the name.
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Post #1160 made 12 years ago
That's a good ale. We get it here in bottles but would be great on tap.
Did you use Pacman yeast? Man, there are SO many great yeasts out now. Not just the breweries have them.. altho, I'm sure they have "changed" them in the brewhouse over time.
Did you use Pacman yeast? Man, there are SO many great yeasts out now. Not just the breweries have them.. altho, I'm sure they have "changed" them in the brewhouse over time.
Bill
Hop Song Brewing-Santa Rosa, California
Hop Song Brewing-Santa Rosa, California
Post #1161 made 12 years ago
Hi all, I have done 6 extract brews with my brothers over the past few months and we're ready to try all grain, using BIAB of course!
We'd like to do a vanilla stout, but don't really have a recipe to convert from, this is just a generic try from looking at a lot of different stout recipes. Please feel free to make suggestions. We're looking for something smooth & creamy, but not too sweet. I've tried to put all the details into BIABacus, but since this is my first time I'm sure I have plenty to learn.
Kettle size is 40 quart / 10 gallon and is 14 3/5" diameter by 14 2/5" depth. This will be the first time using it, so I don't know what the evaporation rate will be. Primary fermentor is a 6 gallon glass carboy.
Thanks!
Rob
[center]BIABacus Pre-Release 1.3 RECIPE REPORT[/center]
[center]BIAB Recipe Designer, Calculator and Scaler.[/center]
[center](Please visit http://www.biabrewer.info" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; for the latest version.)[/center]
[center]Vanilla Stout - Batch 1[/center]
Recipe Overview
Brewer: Rob Anderson
Style: Stout
Source Recipe Link: n/a
Original Gravity (OG): 1.045
IBU's (Tinseth): 30
Bitterness to Gravity Ratio: 0.67
Colour:
ABV%: 4.24
Efficiency into Kettle (EIK): 84.8 %
Efficiency into Fermentor (EIF): 72.7 %
Note: This is a Pure BIAB (Full Volume Mash)
Times and Temperatures
Mash: 60 mins at 67.7 C = 153.9 F
Boil: 60 min
Ferment: 21 days at 19 C = 66.2 F
Volumes & Gravities
Total Water Needed (TWN): 31.03 L = 8.2 G
Volume into Kettle (VIK): 29.48 L = 7.79 G @ 1.038
End of Boil Volume - Ambient (EOBV-A): 23.92 L = 6.32 G @ 1.045
Volume into Fermentor (VIF): 20.5 L = 5.42 G @ 1.045
Volume into Packaging (VIP): 18.98 L = 5.01 G @ 1.012 assuming apparent attenuation of 73 %
The Grain Bill (Also includes extracts, sugars and adjuncts)
Note: If extracts, sugars or adjuncts are not followed by an exclamation mark, go to http://www.biabrewer.info" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; (needs link)
73.7% Maris Otter 3156 grams = 6.96 pounds
10.5% Barley, flaked 451 grams = 0.99 pounds
5.3% Crystal Malt, 80L 226 grams = 0.5 pounds
5.3% Chocolate Malt 226 grams = 0.5 pounds
5.3% Barley, roasted 226 grams = 0.5 pounds
The Hop Bill (Based on Tinseth Formula)
30 IBU East Kent Goldings Pellets (5%AA) 54.1 grams = 1.907 ounces at 60 mins
Mash Steps
Mash Type: Pure BIAB (Full Volume Mash) for 60 mins at 67.7 C = 153.86 F
Mashout for for 10 mins at 77 C = 170.6 F
Miscellaneous Ingredients
2 Vanilla Beans - flavor
Chilling & Hop Management Methods
Hopsock Used: N
Chilling Method: Ice water bath
Fermentation& Conditioning
Fermention: Wyeast Irish Ale #1084 for 21 days at 19 C = 66.2 F
Secondary Used: N
Crash-Chilled: N
Filtered: N
Special Instructions/Notes on this Beer
2 vanilla beans will be split open, and soaked in rum, then added to the primary after 7 days when most of the fermentation is complete.
We'd like to do a vanilla stout, but don't really have a recipe to convert from, this is just a generic try from looking at a lot of different stout recipes. Please feel free to make suggestions. We're looking for something smooth & creamy, but not too sweet. I've tried to put all the details into BIABacus, but since this is my first time I'm sure I have plenty to learn.
Kettle size is 40 quart / 10 gallon and is 14 3/5" diameter by 14 2/5" depth. This will be the first time using it, so I don't know what the evaporation rate will be. Primary fermentor is a 6 gallon glass carboy.
Thanks!
Rob
[center]BIABacus Pre-Release 1.3 RECIPE REPORT[/center]
[center]BIAB Recipe Designer, Calculator and Scaler.[/center]
[center](Please visit http://www.biabrewer.info" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; for the latest version.)[/center]
[center]Vanilla Stout - Batch 1[/center]
Recipe Overview
Brewer: Rob Anderson
Style: Stout
Source Recipe Link: n/a
Original Gravity (OG): 1.045
IBU's (Tinseth): 30
Bitterness to Gravity Ratio: 0.67
Colour:
ABV%: 4.24
Efficiency into Kettle (EIK): 84.8 %
Efficiency into Fermentor (EIF): 72.7 %
Note: This is a Pure BIAB (Full Volume Mash)
Times and Temperatures
Mash: 60 mins at 67.7 C = 153.9 F
Boil: 60 min
Ferment: 21 days at 19 C = 66.2 F
Volumes & Gravities
Total Water Needed (TWN): 31.03 L = 8.2 G
Volume into Kettle (VIK): 29.48 L = 7.79 G @ 1.038
End of Boil Volume - Ambient (EOBV-A): 23.92 L = 6.32 G @ 1.045
Volume into Fermentor (VIF): 20.5 L = 5.42 G @ 1.045
Volume into Packaging (VIP): 18.98 L = 5.01 G @ 1.012 assuming apparent attenuation of 73 %
The Grain Bill (Also includes extracts, sugars and adjuncts)
Note: If extracts, sugars or adjuncts are not followed by an exclamation mark, go to http://www.biabrewer.info" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; (needs link)
73.7% Maris Otter 3156 grams = 6.96 pounds
10.5% Barley, flaked 451 grams = 0.99 pounds
5.3% Crystal Malt, 80L 226 grams = 0.5 pounds
5.3% Chocolate Malt 226 grams = 0.5 pounds
5.3% Barley, roasted 226 grams = 0.5 pounds
The Hop Bill (Based on Tinseth Formula)
30 IBU East Kent Goldings Pellets (5%AA) 54.1 grams = 1.907 ounces at 60 mins
Mash Steps
Mash Type: Pure BIAB (Full Volume Mash) for 60 mins at 67.7 C = 153.86 F
Mashout for for 10 mins at 77 C = 170.6 F
Miscellaneous Ingredients
2 Vanilla Beans - flavor
Chilling & Hop Management Methods
Hopsock Used: N
Chilling Method: Ice water bath
Fermentation& Conditioning
Fermention: Wyeast Irish Ale #1084 for 21 days at 19 C = 66.2 F
Secondary Used: N
Crash-Chilled: N
Filtered: N
Special Instructions/Notes on this Beer
2 vanilla beans will be split open, and soaked in rum, then added to the primary after 7 days when most of the fermentation is complete.
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Last edited by roblanderson on 26 Mar 2013, 23:09, edited 7 times in total.
Post #1162 made 12 years ago
Good stuff. Let us know though if the problem happens again. Double check your grain weights if you can somehow.Dadoffrosty wrote:Thanks Pistolpatch. I will try another an see how I go.
Rob, congratulations. You have filled that out perfectlyroblanderson wrote:I've tried to put all the details into BIABacus, but since this is my first time I'm sure I have plenty to learn.
. Impressive stuff!Only one tiny thing I can see... At the top of Section C, you only need to put the 1.045 on the left hand side. The only situation where you would put anything on the right is say if you had an existing recipe and wanted to make it stronger or lighter for some reason.
Nice job!
PP
Last edited by PistolPatch on 27 Mar 2013, 06:51, edited 7 times in total.
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Post #1163 made 12 years ago
PistolPatch - thanks so much for taking a look. I'll report back in a few days with how things went.PistolPatch wrote:Rob, congratulations. You have filled that out perfectly
Only one tiny thing I can see... At the top of Section C, you only need to put the 1.045 on the left hand side. The only situation where you would put anything on the right is say if you had an existing recipe and wanted to make it stronger or lighter for some reason.
Nice job!
PP
Last edited by roblanderson on 27 Mar 2013, 10:48, edited 7 times in total.
Post #1164 made 12 years ago
Hi all,
I'm going to be brewing the beer I posted on page 46 of this thread on Friday. I initially received a couple of positive comments, but then PP seemed to have a little hesitation about it. I know he is really busy and hadn't had time to get back to it, but if anyone else could take a look and point out any opportunities for improvement I sure would appreciate it. My BIABacus file and the original recipe sheet from Northern Brewer are on the previous page.
Thanks!
I'm going to be brewing the beer I posted on page 46 of this thread on Friday. I initially received a couple of positive comments, but then PP seemed to have a little hesitation about it. I know he is really busy and hadn't had time to get back to it, but if anyone else could take a look and point out any opportunities for improvement I sure would appreciate it. My BIABacus file and the original recipe sheet from Northern Brewer are on the previous page.
Thanks!
Post #1165 made 12 years ago
I'm still new enough to not know all the in's n out's.. but PP did say to put the 1.045 on the LEFT side. Not to include a number on the right side unless you wanted to change the1.045 up or down. I would think if you want it to stay 1.045..there would be no harm in doing what you did.. BUT.. as I said.. I don't know enough about it yet.
Bill
Hop Song Brewing-Santa Rosa, California
Hop Song Brewing-Santa Rosa, California
Post #1166 made 12 years ago
mtate, sorry I didn't get back to you earlier. I wanted to check up on what the correct EOBV-A was to use for Northern Brewer recipes based on some detective work we did previously and then ran out of time etc. Anyway, for a normal Northern Brewer recipe, the correct EOBV-A is 20.83 L (5.5 gal). After losing 0.5 gal to trub you end up with 5 gal in the fermentor. However, in this recipe, because of the massive hop bill and therefore kettle trub, they mention the recipe being formulated for 6 gallons'of wort'. When they say this, they do mean EOBV_A just as you have assumed so that is good .
You have done an excellent job on the file by the way - extract adjustments, checklist, notes etc. Here are a few changes I've made...
1. Removed 120 from second line of Section D as you are copying a recipe not designing one.
2. Changed mash time from 60 to 90 mins. The extra half hour makes a difference especially on a huge grain bill like this one.
3. In Section X, I have over-ridden the KFL by 100% effectively doubling the kettle trub auto-estimate. I have done this because of the massive hop bill and you may actually get even more trub than the 4.16 L the file is now predicting.
4. The change I made to the kettle trub auto-estimate means that your mash volume became too big for the kettle. To get around this, I have held back 5 litres of water from the mash and that 5 L would be added to the kettle before the boil - see Section W. Doing this is costing you in grain though. If you already have your grain, then delete the 5 l from Section W and just set a smaller VIF in Section B.
Another alternative, and I'd probably go for it in this instance, would be to sparge that 5 Litres although you will need the equipment to do so. You'll need something to heat 5 litres of water in (big saucepan) and a food-grade bucket to do your 'sparge' in. If you are going to do this, make sure you move that 5 L in Section W up to 'Water Used in a Sparge' as it will affect the grain bill.
Hope the above is not too confusing mtate. I'll keep an eye on this thread in case you have any more questions before tomorrow. Hope you got the 'Hopburst Blend' worked out.
PP
.You have done an excellent job on the file by the way - extract adjustments, checklist, notes etc
. Here are a few changes I've made...1. Removed 120 from second line of Section D as you are copying a recipe not designing one.
2. Changed mash time from 60 to 90 mins. The extra half hour makes a difference especially on a huge grain bill like this one.
3. In Section X, I have over-ridden the KFL by 100% effectively doubling the kettle trub auto-estimate. I have done this because of the massive hop bill and you may actually get even more trub than the 4.16 L the file is now predicting.
4. The change I made to the kettle trub auto-estimate means that your mash volume became too big for the kettle. To get around this, I have held back 5 litres of water from the mash and that 5 L would be added to the kettle before the boil - see Section W. Doing this is costing you in grain though. If you already have your grain, then delete the 5 l from Section W and just set a smaller VIF in Section B.
Another alternative, and I'd probably go for it in this instance, would be to sparge that 5 Litres although you will need the equipment to do so. You'll need something to heat 5 litres of water in (big saucepan) and a food-grade bucket to do your 'sparge' in. If you are going to do this, make sure you move that 5 L in Section W up to 'Water Used in a Sparge' as it will affect the grain bill.
Hope the above is not too confusing mtate. I'll keep an eye on this thread in case you have any more questions before tomorrow. Hope you got the 'Hopburst Blend' worked out.
PP
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Post #1167 made 12 years ago
Thanks so much PP! This isn't confusing at all. I've got a couple of enamel ware pots and an extra bucket so holding the water back won't be an issue. I can pick up more grain from the LHBS today. Do those enamel ware pots work okay on a propane burner? If not I'll have to go back and forth between the garage and kitchen upstairs. To what temperature should I heat the water if I sparge?
Due to the massive hop bill and my previous volume accuracy issues I was thinking about using hop socks. How much would that thrown off the work you've done? My only concern with the hop socks is that they would be too full to get good utilization. If I don't use them that is a prep step I can take out and it allows me to do something I haven't done before (i.e. sparge).
How can I calculate my GIK taking into account the fact that the corn sugar will not be added until the end of the boil? Last night I was actually reading the chapter in How to Brew where Palmer talks about calculating gravity and efficiency but I was exhausted and it was going over my head.
Thanks again! I really appreciate you taking the time to go over this.
Due to the massive hop bill and my previous volume accuracy issues I was thinking about using hop socks. How much would that thrown off the work you've done? My only concern with the hop socks is that they would be too full to get good utilization. If I don't use them that is a prep step I can take out and it allows me to do something I haven't done before (i.e. sparge).
How can I calculate my GIK taking into account the fact that the corn sugar will not be added until the end of the boil? Last night I was actually reading the chapter in How to Brew where Palmer talks about calculating gravity and efficiency but I was exhausted and it was going over my head.
Thanks again! I really appreciate you taking the time to go over this.
Post #1168 made 12 years ago
Mtate75, Be careful not to overfire the Enamal/Porcelin pot they can crack and pop off the coatings.
Sparge water is perfect at 172F and 6.0ph, or better at 174F and 5.4ph.
If you have an extra BIAB bag, use that as a Hop Sack. It really works well.
PP, can answer that GIK question.....
Sparge water is perfect at 172F and 6.0ph, or better at 174F and 5.4ph.
If you have an extra BIAB bag, use that as a Hop Sack. It really works well.
PP, can answer that GIK question.....
Honest Officer, I swear to Drunk, I am Not God.
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Post #1169 made 12 years ago
[EDIT: Just saw josh's post above so ignore my bit on the porcelain below. Sounds like it still should be fine unless you have one of those burners that sound like a jet engine 
]
Good stuff. I can't see any probs with the enamelware on the burner, pretty sure that will be fine. You can just bring the sparge water to boiling and let it cool for a few minutes before sparging or just bring it up to 78 C.
On the hop sock thing, it had a Y in your file so I assumed you were going to be using a hop sock. Without one, your trub would be pretty huge. So, current file assumes hop sock.
As for the prep step bit, just do your sparge and then drain your bag. Once drained, get rid of the grain and then give your bag a quick rinse under the tap. Then you can use that as a hop sock. If you can hang it somehow so it floats lazily around the boil, you will find no loss of utilisation.
Let me think on the GIK with the corn sugar bit while I have a sleep
.
]Good stuff
. I can't see any probs with the enamelware on the burner, pretty sure that will be fine. You can just bring the sparge water to boiling and let it cool for a few minutes before sparging or just bring it up to 78 C.On the hop sock thing, it had a Y in your file so I assumed you were going to be using a hop sock. Without one, your trub would be pretty huge. So, current file assumes hop sock
.As for the prep step bit, just do your sparge and then drain your bag. Once drained, get rid of the grain and then give your bag a quick rinse under the tap. Then you can use that as a hop sock. If you can hang it somehow so it floats lazily around the boil, you will find no loss of utilisation.
Let me think on the GIK with the corn sugar bit while I have a sleep
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Post #1170 made 12 years ago
Thanks PP and Josh!
I'm really excited about this brew. Feeling much more prepared for this one than any before it. Hopefully all will go smooth.
EDIT: For the sparge, should I dunk the bag in the bucket and stir or should I just pour the water over the bag over the kettle? I don't have any way to ensure a steady, even flow if I pour the water.
I'm really excited about this brew. Feeling much more prepared for this one than any before it. Hopefully all will go smooth.
EDIT: For the sparge, should I dunk the bag in the bucket and stir or should I just pour the water over the bag over the kettle? I don't have any way to ensure a steady, even flow if I pour the water.
Post #1171 made 12 years ago
Yep, go for the dunk to make things easy.
As for the GIK thing, it's a bit tricky in the BIABacus when you have sugars. Firstly as you know, they are added during the boil and secondly, the 'Efficiency into Kettle' of a sugar is always 100%. If we wanted to account for sugars perfectly correctly in the BIABacus we'd need to add in another column in Section Y and it's a pretty low priority atm.
Anyway, here's some calcs for you but don't get too hung up on them. This is a big brew and who knows what will happen? Just let the brew ride through taking at least two sets of volume and gravity measurements if you can and then at the end if you want to make any adjustments, do them then.
The Calcs to Confuse You
In your file, I am assuming you have moved your 5 L in Section W to "Water Used in a Sparge". I'll attach a new file here just in case.
In this recipe, you will be using about 2.21 pounds of sugar at 46.2 points per pound per gallon. Therefore 46.2 * 2.21 = 102 gravity points will be contributed to the brew by the corn sugar.
In the file below, in Section K you will see that the estimated VIK is 7.39 gallons and that the Gravity into Kettle in Section L is predicted to be 1.077/3. That means there will be...
7.39*77.3=571 gravity points in the kettle. But! 102 of those gravity points won't really be there as we haven't added the sugar so...
571-102=469 gravity points will really only be in the kettle.
At the beginning of the boil this means that the specific gravity should really be
469/7.39=63.5ppg or 1.063/5 specific gravity.
So, when your boil begins, your specific gravity should be around 1.063/5 assuming you have 7.39 gal VIK.
Next brew, no sugars please
.
Two more things.
I just noticed your boil time on this is only 60 mins. On an imperial IPA, which this is, it really should be 90 minutes. There is a lot of stuff that the boil needs to deal with here. Changing the boil time to 90 minutes won't cause any hassles on this brew. It just requires an extra litre or so of water and a bit less grain. Everything else stays the same.
Finally, I'm not sure why the corn sugar is getting added at 0 minutes. I know bugger all about sugars but surely that should be getting a good 15 minute boil???
Anyway, all should be good I reckon. Have fun!
PP
As for the GIK thing, it's a bit tricky in the BIABacus when you have sugars. Firstly as you know, they are added during the boil and secondly, the 'Efficiency into Kettle' of a sugar is always 100%. If we wanted to account for sugars perfectly correctly in the BIABacus we'd need to add in another column in Section Y and it's a pretty low priority atm.
Anyway, here's some calcs for you but don't get too hung up on them. This is a big brew and who knows what will happen? Just let the brew ride through taking at least two sets of volume and gravity measurements if you can and then at the end if you want to make any adjustments, do them then.
The Calcs to Confuse You
In your file, I am assuming you have moved your 5 L in Section W to "Water Used in a Sparge". I'll attach a new file here just in case.
In this recipe, you will be using about 2.21 pounds of sugar at 46.2 points per pound per gallon. Therefore 46.2 * 2.21 = 102 gravity points will be contributed to the brew by the corn sugar.
In the file below, in Section K you will see that the estimated VIK is 7.39 gallons and that the Gravity into Kettle in Section L is predicted to be 1.077/3. That means there will be...
7.39*77.3=571 gravity points in the kettle. But! 102 of those gravity points won't really be there as we haven't added the sugar so...
571-102=469 gravity points will really only be in the kettle.
At the beginning of the boil this means that the specific gravity should really be
469/7.39=63.5ppg or 1.063/5 specific gravity.
So, when your boil begins, your specific gravity should be around 1.063/5 assuming you have 7.39 gal VIK.
Next brew, no sugars please
.Two more things.
I just noticed your boil time on this is only 60 mins. On an imperial IPA, which this is, it really should be 90 minutes. There is a lot of stuff that the boil needs to deal with here. Changing the boil time to 90 minutes won't cause any hassles on this brew. It just requires an extra litre or so of water and a bit less grain. Everything else stays the same.
Finally, I'm not sure why the corn sugar is getting added at 0 minutes. I know bugger all about sugars but surely that should be getting a good 15 minute boil???
Anyway, all should be good I reckon. Have fun!
PP
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Last edited by PistolPatch on 29 Mar 2013, 10:21, edited 7 times in total.
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Post #1172 made 12 years ago
We brewed the stout last night - overall it went very well. I've attached the spreadsheet with the numbers from the process.PistolPatch wrote:Good stuff. Let us know though if the problem happens again. Double check your grain weights if you can somehow.Dadoffrosty wrote:Thanks Pistolpatch. I will try another an see how I go.Rob, congratulations. You have filled that out perfectlyroblanderson wrote:I've tried to put all the details into BIABacus, but since this is my first time I'm sure I have plenty to learn.
Only one tiny thing I can see... At the top of Section C, you only need to put the 1.045 on the left hand side. The only situation where you would put anything on the right is say if you had an existing recipe and wanted to make it stronger or lighter for some reason.
Nice job!
PP
As expected working with new equipment for the first time we did have trouble maintaining our target mash temp. The target was 154. After adding the grain and stirring it was at 156. Over 45 minutes it gradually fell to 151.5, so we turned the burner on with 15 minutes to go, left it on a bit too long and it went back up to 156 for the rest of the mash.
No problems with the mash out and pulling the grain bag. I was very glad to see the 1.038 gravity reading, which was exactly what the BIABacus had predicted for pre-boil gravity. After chilling original gravity was 1.043.
I was surprised by the lack of trub in the kettle after siphoning to the carboy. We dumped about 3/4 gallon of pretty clear looking wort. I will also say that while the chilled wort didn't taste bad, it wasn't as sweet tasting as others we've had. Had a bit of a grainy taste to it as well.
It has been fermenting now for 24 hours and is bubbling along happily. Thanks to all!
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Last edited by roblanderson on 30 Mar 2013, 09:01, edited 7 times in total.
Post #1173 made 12 years ago
Rob, thanks for your post above and the one prior to that as well. That's great that you were able to record so many actual figures - good on you .
It's good to see that a lot of actuals, like yours, coming in from the BIABacus are showing that the auto-estimates seem to be getting most brewers in the ballpark if not hitting a home run. Don't get a shock though when you have a brew where the numbers are out of the ballpark. This does happen and will happen for as long as you brew
.
Once again thanks for recording so many actuals. It helps see if any numbers are consistently working or not working in the BIABacus. (Nice to see 'Mash Volume' recorded as we don't often see that.)
PP
.It's good to see that a lot of actuals, like yours, coming in from the BIABacus are showing that the auto-estimates seem to be getting most brewers in the ballpark if not hitting a home run. Don't get a shock though when you have a brew where the numbers are out of the ballpark. This does happen and will happen for as long as you brew
.Once again thanks for recording so many actuals. It helps see if any numbers are consistently working or not working in the BIABacus. (Nice to see 'Mash Volume' recorded as we don't often see that.)
PP
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Post #1174 made 12 years ago
Hi all, if anyone has a minute or so I'd really appreciate it if you to have a quick look over this file as I'm about to brew it tomorrow. I've taken the recipe from here:http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f64/captain ... ner-29740/.
So far I have had really good results with the BIABacus but have been pretty slack on taking measurements etc. For this brew I want to get my act together and really focus on efficiencies and recording as much as possible. I notice that the original Brewhouse efficiency that the recipe is based on is around 67%. Do I need to adjust anything in the BIABacus to account for this?
I'm not a fan of sparging etc (as more work)but I don't really have a option until I find a bigger pot for full volume BIAB. Is there any trickery you would suggest to brew smarter vs harder.
Thanks in advance,
lee
So far I have had really good results with the BIABacus but have been pretty slack on taking measurements etc. For this brew I want to get my act together and really focus on efficiencies and recording as much as possible. I notice that the original Brewhouse efficiency that the recipe is based on is around 67%. Do I need to adjust anything in the BIABacus to account for this?
I'm not a fan of sparging etc (as more work)but I don't really have a option until I find a bigger pot for full volume BIAB. Is there any trickery you would suggest to brew smarter vs harder.
Thanks in advance,
lee
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Post #1175 made 12 years ago
BrewBagMan, that is over 50% dilution, twice the maximum. PP doesn't exceed 15%. I heard 25% is the max.
If you are brewing regardless, I'd after mashing add 1/2 gallon of water and start the boil, then try to add 3/4 to 1 gallon along the way to replace the evaporation, then add the remaining in the fermenter.
EDIT: Your efficiency might just be around 67% because of not adding all the water up front...
If you are brewing regardless, I'd after mashing add 1/2 gallon of water and start the boil, then try to add 3/4 to 1 gallon along the way to replace the evaporation, then add the remaining in the fermenter.
EDIT: Your efficiency might just be around 67% because of not adding all the water up front...
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