Post #1126 made 13 years ago
mtate75 wrote:Would y'all mind taking a look and letting me know if I'm on track or need to make any changes?
mtate, nice post I reckon :salute:.

All the regulars here must be drunk though as they missed the main thing :).

They should have asked if you had a link to the original recipe because your question is mainly a scaling one. Unless you know the EOBV-A of the original recipe, you are flying blind.

Personally, I think (nup, want to think on this more...)

Sorry, I am way tired now but my next question in this thread would be... "Are all BIABrewers/BIABacus experts happy with my comment, 'Assuming 7.5% AA for the blend comes out pretty close to the 120 IBUs that Northern Brewer shows on the pro-mash report so I guess I'm comfortable running with that.'"

Well, they shouldn't be.

Brain's run out of steam but I don't think you should have been given a yes on this recipe.

PP

P.S. I fully expect Yeasty and mally to retract or at least expand on their prior answers :).
P.S.S. I realise that would take hours mally/yeasty so, maybe instead, just try and dig up some old threads.
Last edited by PistolPatch on 16 Mar 2013, 00:45, edited 7 times in total.
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Post #1127 made 13 years ago
Hey guys,

Thanks so much looking this over for me. This is a great tool and forum.

yeasty - I made the adjustment in BIABacus as recommended. This dropped the 2-row by about a half pound and the C60 and corn sugar by really small amounts. Does this sound right?

PP -Hereis the original recipe sheet from Northern Brewer. It shows that the recipe was originally formulated to yeild 6 gallons of 1.090 wort. I started with the recipe as is and backed off on the VIF until I got to something that would fit into my kettle.

If I'm way off base on the IBU I would really appreciate some input on what I should do. I would also welcome any thoughts about dry-hopping this recipe.

Thanks again!
Last edited by mtate75 on 16 Mar 2013, 01:44, edited 7 times in total.

Post #1128 made 13 years ago
Having my first day off work in ages tomorrow so should be able to give you some sane answers then mtate :P. We didn't look after you very well in this thread back in mid-February when everyone was pretty busy. I'll try and correct this tomorrow unless Yeasty or mally beat me to it :lol:.

Between now and then, can you do the following?...

1. Post your actual BIABacus file here - this will help us check a couple of things.

2. As for the IBU thing I reckon this post is probably one of my more sensible ones on this issue. Can you have a read of that and let me know if that sheds light on the slightly 'out there' post I made above yesterday ;).

Good on you,
PP
Last edited by PistolPatch on 16 Mar 2013, 17:58, edited 7 times in total.
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Post #1129 made 13 years ago
Hello all,

Celebrated St. Patty's day with a few beers and bottling the Centennial Blonde I made. :salute:
So I punched in my FG and looked over the results. As you could see from my BIABacus below, my EIF was low. I thought my other efficiencies were better. I did a search here, typing "improving EIF" but didn't find what I was looking for. :scratch:
On brew day, I siphoned as much as I could before hitting the trub layer. I thought I got most of the clear wort. Any tips on how to improve this number?

I'm looking forward to this carbing over the next 3 weeks. It tasted pretty good flat. I carb'ed to 2.5 volumes using dextrose.(I bottle)
Thanks
Stew
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Post #1130 made 13 years ago
BabyFaceFinster, Looking over the .xls,78% is not too bad bad for 90 minutes at 150F/65.55C.

You may get a EIF of 80% if you mash at 153F/57C. It is the best Temperature for all enzyemes.

A few degees, do mean a few %!
Honest Officer, I swear to Drunk, I am Not God.
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Post #1131 made 13 years ago
[NOTE: Josh, that answer above is a bit misleading sorry. Two main things to note are the difference between EIK and EIF (see below). Secondly, while temp does affect EIK, assuming a full-volume mash, the gravity of the brew has a far greater affect on the result than mash temp. This is why the BIABAcus auto-efficiency estimates change when you change the OG for example.]

BabyfaceFinster

Before we get to your question, just wanted to note that your EIF was estimated at 78.0% while you scored 74.3%. That is totally within the ball-park and isn't worth a second look especially on a single brew. So, yo have nothing to worry about :party:.

As to your question though...

My EIK is fine but my EIF is low. WHat does this mean?

If your 'Efficiecny into Kettle (EIK)' is fine but your 'Efficiency into Fermentor (EIF)' is low, all this means is that your your 'Kettle to Fermentor Loss (KFL)' is high. In other words, you are probably leaving too much wort behind in the kettle.

Things like a hopsock or whirlpool may help to reduce this. Also remember that on very hoppy beers, you will get more kettle trub and therefor a higher KFL than on less hoppy beers.

A search here on "trub management" may come up with some more ideas.

The BIABacus File

Your file looks great. One possible big problem though is that you don't have an EOBV-A in Section D or a Desired Tinseth number. This means that there are no numbers on the right hand side of Section D and therefore the recipe theoretically cannot be brewed. A good rule to follow would be, "If nothing is displayed under 'What you will use...' in Section C or D then something is not right."

Let me know if that makes sense.

:peace:
PP
Last edited by PistolPatch on 18 Mar 2013, 06:40, edited 7 times in total.
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Post #1132 made 13 years ago
The BIABacus File

Your file looks great. One possible big problem though is that you don't have an EOBV-A in Section D or a Desired Tinseth number. This means that there are no numbers on the right hand side of Section D and therefore the recipe theoretically cannot be brewed. A good rule to follow would be, "If nothing is displayed under 'What you will use...' in Section C or D then something is not right."

Let me know if that makes sense.

:peace:
PP

Thanks to both of you.

Yep, the EOBV-A was blank and I don't know why. :idiot: I thought I went through all the recipes and filled that in.

So, I popped that number in and it gave me my IBU number. I also just changed the recipe for next time. I added my new 15 gallon kettle :party: and removed the water held back.

I see now that my EIF was reasonable. I guess I'm all set there now. After looking at those expected numbers, I guess I'm doing ok for a young bagger :lol:

BTW PP, I'm reading an interesting biography right now of a man who was an officer on a US WWII submarine. A good portion of the book takes place near Perth. I guess there was a large sub base in Fremantle back then, then again maybe there still is.
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Last edited by BabyfaceFinster on 18 Mar 2013, 07:19, edited 7 times in total.

Post #1133 made 13 years ago
PP

Thanks for the link to the IBU post. It certainly shed some light on your response.

As requested I am attaching the BIABacus file. I figure I missed your work day, but I won't be brewing this until March 29 so there no hurry. Thanks in advance for looking it over.
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Post #1134 made 13 years ago
Hello all,

Would anyone mind giving me a hand with the BIABacus?

I've done a few mini-BIABs and now I'm tempted to try a Maxi to up my output. I have a relatively small pot so mini-BIAB means I don't end up with a huge amount of beer. I'm actually quite happy to do less than a standard 23L/5G batch, but I'm intrigued to see how big I could go with the limitations of my equipment.

So, I want to do a maxi-BIAB version of "NRBs all American Pale Ale". The original recipe is here: http://www.biabrewer.info/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=158

I previously brewed a scaled down version which was delicious.

My boiling pot is straight sided, and 29cm wide and 24 deep.

Let me know if anymore information is needed!

Thanks all.:salute:
maevans.
Last edited by maevans on 19 Mar 2013, 16:21, edited 7 times in total.

Post #1135 made 13 years ago
The best way to start maevans is to download and fill out the BIABacus as much as you can,then post it here and someone will go over it for you and offer their guidance.
AWOL

Post #1136 made 13 years ago
Hi Maevans, You can download BIABacus here (read the intro there too). There are two that you can download. One is blank, and one is filled in which can be changed or referred to. Start by filling in section A, and B with your pot dimensions, then move on to section C.

Until the instructions are written, it’s kind of like doing a puzzle, and if you are not in a hurry to start using it, it can be a lot of fun, and very rewarding figuring it out. You will keep discovering new and amazing things that it can do, and interestingly as time goes on and you discover more and more, it will feel as though it is your own creation, even though it isn’t.

BIABacus is an amazing toy for adults, and a great complement to the hobby of beer making.

Don’t be in a hurry though. It’s a leisure activity for now. Who wants instructions for a puzzle any way? It would take all the fun out of it :)
Last edited by GuingesRock on 19 Mar 2013, 17:15, edited 7 times in total.
Guinges

Post #1137 made 13 years ago
Lylo wrote:The best way to start maevans is to download and fill out the BIABacus as much as you can,then post it here and someone will go over it for you and offer their guidance.
Thanks for the advice. I have found a copy of the biabacus with the pale recipe already plugged, and have added my kettle dimensions, along with a desired volume into fermenter and attached it here.

Where I get stuck is on how to do the maxi-BIAB sections/calculations - I can work out how much water I need to add by deducting the total pot capacity from the total required water, but I'm unclear on how to work out when to add it - i.e. how much to add to add to top up during the boil or how much to add afterwards!

Generally speaking, this is where it quickly comes apparent I've missed something incredibly obvious, or it's really simple - "just add as much as you can during the boil, and sling the rest in the FV"! :blush:
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Last edited by maevans on 19 Mar 2013, 17:24, edited 7 times in total.

Post #1138 made 13 years ago
Still pretty busy on this other project but would like to see if I can catch up on a few posts I am still owing here...

maevans: Just saw your post. Good advice from Lylo and GR. Maxi-BIAB is a juggle. Please read this post and the summary at the end of this post. They should get you thinking along the most practical lines ;).

BabyfaceFinster: Good on you for getting the figures plugged in*. I better not say too much on Fremantle as I'll get side-tracked :). I live in East Fremantle though and it has had a naval history for a long time as Fremantle is at the mouth of the Swan River. Perth is located about 7 miles up the river. Years ago when I was in pubs in Fremantle, the Americans would invite hotel management out onto the ships. One of these was the biggest aircraft carrier in the world at the time. That was pretty cool!

* Whoops! Just opened the file. I'm a bit worried that the 21.0 L should actually be 23.31 L so that it matches the EOBV-A in Section K. (21.0 L is the VIF in Section K). Double-check that one.

mtate75: Thanks for reading up on the IBU stuff. It's an important area to be aware of I think and most brewers are not told about it. The other thing that is really important is this EOBV-A thing. We didn't address it properly when you first posted in mid-February. We need to do that now.

I was hoping to find another link to a post already written on this but can't find one that explains the importance of EOBV-A very well unfortunately. (Quite amazing as I thought I'd written a book on this already. Go figure :interesting:) Let's have a look at this from another angle...

[I'm going to post the next part, "Three People and a Cup of Tea," otherwise it will get lost here.]
Last edited by PistolPatch on 19 Mar 2013, 18:47, edited 7 times in total.
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Post #1139 made 13 years ago
maevans wrote:
Lylo wrote:The best way to start maevans is to download and fill out the BIABacus as much as you can,then post it here and someone will go over it for you and offer their guidance.
Thanks for the advice. I have found a copy of the biabacus with the pale recipe already plugged, and have added my kettle dimensions, along with a desired volume into fermenter and attached it here.

Where I get stuck is on how to do the maxi-BIAB sections/calculations - I can work out how much water I need to add by deducting the total pot capacity from the total required water, but I'm unclear on how to work out when to add it - i.e. how much to add to add to top up during the boil or how much to add afterwards!

Generally speaking, this is where it quickly comes apparent I've missed something incredibly obvious, or it's really simple - "just add as much as you can during the boil, and sling the rest in the FV"! :blush:

Hi maevans,

You're going to love the BIABacus once you get a working knowledge of it. I don't think I'm even at that point yet, but I have enough (with the help of the folks here) to brew with confidence. There is quite a learning curve. :geek:

I don't claim to know enough yet to offer much counsel, but one thing I noticed is that your kettle dimensions numbers seem very small. If you look at the outcome, your kettle is coming out to be a little over 3 gallons which is too small for your brew. Perhaps you plugged inches into the cm section? You'll notice the red letters telling you your brew is too big for your kettle. Each section of this tool has an affect on the other sections so you have to be as accurate as possible. I'll leave the other sections to more knowledgable folks here.
Welcome :peace:
Stew
Last edited by BabyfaceFinster on 19 Mar 2013, 20:19, edited 7 times in total.

Post #1140 made 13 years ago
[Pre-Amble: Any new/old brewer who after reading/studying the following, can simultaneously say, "How ridiculous is that!" and, "How right is that!" can be sure, at the very least, that they aren't 'Kool-Aid' brewers*.]

[center]Three People and a Cup of Tea[/center]

Have you ever met anyone that always leaves a bit (or a lot) of tea or coffee at the bottom of their mug? They let it sit for so long it becomes too cold to drink?

Let's say that you have a friend like this and that you both make your tea exactly the same way. You both have it with two sugars (10 grams) and steep it in 200 mls of boiling water. The only difference between you two is that your friend never drinks 50 ml of that 200 ml, he just throws it down the sink.

Imagine if the two of you had a third friend over one day and they loved the way that you and your friend made your tea. The third person loved it so much you actually gave them a teabag to take home.

The day after you shared that tea, the third friend emailed you both though and asked...

The Question

"How did you make that great cup of tea? I have the teabag but am not sure what to do with it."

The Useful Answer

"Put the teabag in 200mls of just-boiled water and remove after 3 minutes. Then add 10 grams of sugar." (Something like that.)

The Useless Answer

"Ten grams of sugar gives me a 150ml cup of that great tea. Put the teabag in just-boiled water for three minutes before adding the sugar." (Notice that there is no mention of the 50 mls thrown down the sink or, alternatively, the 200 mls of just-boiled water?)

[center]How do I know if I have been given a Useful or a Useless Answer?[/center]
Let's pretend that brewing software is meant to be your recipe 'checkpoint'. Well, pre-BIABAcus software reminds me of the following...

One of my favourite books is, "Holidays in Hell," by P.J. O'Rourke. In it, he talks not about checkpoints but 'roadbloacks.' He says,
One thing you can count on in [certain] countries is trouble. There’s always some uprising, coup or marxist insurrection going on, and this means military roadblocks. There are two kinds of military roadblocks, the kind where you slow down so they can look you over, and the kind where you come to a full stop so they can steal your luggage. The important thing is that you must never stop at the slow-down kind of roadblock. If you stop, they’ll think you are a terrorist about to shoot them, and they’ll shoot you. And you must always stop at the full-stop kind of roadblock. If you just slow down, they’ll think you are a terrorist about to attack them, and they’ll shoot you. How do you tell the difference between the two kinds of roadblocks? Here’s the fun part: You can’t!
In this thread, occasionally we can tell the difference but more often it is a guess at best.

[center]What this thread/post 'boils' down to.[/center]
Excuse the pun, but this thread/post is nothing more than about trying to find out the answer to the most basic of questions. In this thread, we have to work out whether we have enough information to determine how many mls really 'made' the cup of tea.

I can't think of any software besides the BIABacus that does this. The BIABacus clearly says it is 200 mls made up of 150 mls + 50mls. Other software can say 150 mls when they really mean 200 mls. It's a big problem.

[center]The Next Step[/center]
mtate, because we have some time up our sleeve, can you let me know if the above 'tea' analogy helps? I'd also prefer to take this whole thing step by step if you don't mind.

The next step is determining whether the 22.71 l (6 gal) you have in Section D of your file is correct. Before we go there, it would be nice to see if what is written above makes a bit of sense. Once it does, then we can start to look more at what that 22.7 L (6 gal) might really mean.

:peace:
PP

Post-Script

If I had time to write the above post again I would re-write it with a different analogy. I would have talked more about making a pot of tea. When you make a pot of tea, there are always dregs. How you handle those dregs varies from tea brewer to tea brewer.

* Give two tea brewers 50 grams of tea and what is relevant is how much water they put in the pot NOT what they get out of it.

[If you get that last sentence, put yourself into the top 2-5% of brewers. It's that easy and that hard.]
Last edited by PistolPatch on 19 Mar 2013, 20:52, edited 7 times in total.
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Post #1141 made 13 years ago
Hi maevans,

I don't claim to know enough yet to offer much counsel, but one thing I noticed is that your kettle dimensions numbers seem very small. If you look at the outcome, your kettle is coming out to be a little over 3 gallons which is too small for your brew. Perhaps you plugged inches into the cm section? You'll notice the red letters telling you your brew is too big for your kettle. Each section of this tool has an affect on the other sections so you have to be as accurate as possible. I'll leave the other sections to more knowledgable folks here.
Welcome :peace:
Stew
Yeah you're right, I have a small kettle - holds c.15L, so for mini-BIABs I end up woth c6.5L of beer. I was hoping to up that by doing a maxi-BIAB and adding extra water at the end or topping up during the boil. I'll have to go away and read up on it!

Cheers all.
Last edited by maevans on 19 Mar 2013, 21:21, edited 7 times in total.

Post #1142 made 13 years ago
* Give two tea brewers 50 grams of tea and what is relevant is how much water they put in the pot NOT what they get out of it.
Is it not also very important to know how much water was still in the pot (EOBV-A)before they started drinking it?
AWOL

Post #1143 made 13 years ago
PP, when you have the time, you do such a fantastic job of helping us noobs (and not so noobs) the components of the picture, not just the picture itself. Sometimes, the picture is overwhelming.. but, when you eat the elephant piece by piece.. it's not so daunting a task. :) Thanks for your helps.
Bill
Hop Song Brewing-Santa Rosa, California

Post #1144 made 13 years ago
PP,

Since volume and gravity are things I've had an issue with on every non-extract brew I've made I'm happy, and grateful, to take this step by step.

If I understand the analogy correctly, to put it simply, if you don't start with the correct volume of water for the given ingredients and process you will not achieve the intended result (i.e. 'x' gallons of beer with a gravity of 'y' and IBUs of 'z'.) I understand that there are variables along the way (mash inneficiency, boil off, trub management, etc.) that can also throw off the intended result, but starting with the wrong amount of water is key to everything else going as planned along the way.

Am I understanding correctly? Is there something that you intended that I have missed?

Thanks so much for the time you are putting into this!

(Woohoo! My kit for this beer was just delivered.)

Post #1145 made 13 years ago
Heey Everybody, I know I have been away for a while life has been a bit overwhelming lately, but not all bad.

First off I'll start by reposting a question for PP, that I should have done months ago.
Another question, how does making a brewing at higher efficiency affect the flavor profile given by the malt?
Does being 10% points more efficient make for a completely different tasting beer.
I'm still really curious about that.

As for the good news, We bottled and conditioned our 2nd brew, an IPA with an FWH, and it has been a real surprise. It is an absolute stunner! I'm amazed that I made a beer that tasted like that. We are definitely brewing this recipe again to see if we can brew consistently.
Friends (all foodies), were surprised and gave alot of positive comments. However, not all of the ladies appreciated the bitterness of the beer.

Our 3rd beer which is a more balanced APA, now 1 week in conditioning, showed us that we are atleast on the right track of brewing. We make some mistakes (mainly transfers) and we should not start to become cocky, but it seems we are doing things right flavorwise.

Our 4th beer is still in fermentation and is ready to be bottled its a Dogfish head 60min ipa clone, semi-continuously hopped.

After Brew #4, and playing around alot with Biabacus, I was wondering whether it is possible to make an expandable hops bill section, or an extra sheet with a hops bill override.
Once you start to do continuous hopped beers or work with a complicated hops bill, the 8 fields become a bit limited.
I don't know whether this is a rare or luxury problem.

I would like to thank you guys again for creating the Biabacus, because I think it has been a major part of our early brewing success :D

Now it's time to catch up on my reading!
Last edited by Dauthi on 20 Mar 2013, 01:25, edited 7 times in total.

Post #1146 made 13 years ago
"The Question

"How did you make that great cup of tea? I have the teabag but am not sure what to do with it."

The Useful Answer

"Put the teabag in 200mls of just-boiled water and remove after 3 minutes. Then add 10 grams of sugar." (Something like that.)

The Useless Answer

"Ten grams of sugar gives me a 150ml cup of that great tea. Put the teabag in just-boiled water for three minutes before adding the sugar." (Notice that there is no mention of the 50 mls thrown down the sink or, alternatively, the 200 mls of just-boiled water?)"

I think I understand this. Like PP has also stated before, so many recipes will never allow you to make the beer like the author meant. Either conditions will be different, or more importantly for this thread, the recipe is doomed for failure because it doesn't not provide all the necessary steps to reach the end goal. Water management is so important. I see that now. It is one of the biggest things I've taken away from this site. When it comes down to it, you got your solute and your solvent. The dance between them is what it is all about, and it's a lot like a cup of tea.

Post #1147 made 13 years ago
“How do I know if I have been given the useful or the useless answer?”

In the case of making tea you will need to know

1. That the water is just boiled.
2. The volume of water
3. The amount of tea (one tea bag).
4. How long to steep the tea bag in the water
5. When to add the sugar
6. How much sugar to add

So in order to know if you have been given a useful, or a useless answer, you need to first identify the important information you need, and then consider whether all the information is given in the answer. If there is just one piece of information missing then the chances of replicating that special cup of tea are infinitesimally small.

I think that’s where a lot of the frustration comes from with the beer recipes. One piece of information not there and you may as well start from scratch and make your own recipe.

Starting from scratch and making your own recipe isn’t a bad idea any way. It’s more fun and more creative designing your own beer. That way you can take all kinds of ideas from all the junk recipes and figure out a beer to call your own.

How depressing would it be to go to all the effort of brewing a junk beer, from a junk recipe, and have to call it someone else’s beer?
Last edited by GuingesRock on 20 Mar 2013, 05:48, edited 8 times in total.
Guinges

Post #1148 made 13 years ago
GuingesRock wrote:“How do I know if I have been given the useful or the useless answer?”


I think that’s where a lot of the frustration comes from with the beer recipes. One piece of information not there and you may as well start from scratch and make your own recipe.

Starting from scratch and making your own recipe isn’t a bad idea any way. It’s more fun and more creative designing your own beer. That way you can take all kinds of ideas from all the junk recipes and figure out a beer to call your own.
Hear Hear, thats what I have been doing. I see other recipes as sources of inspiration and style directions. :)
Last edited by Dauthi on 20 Mar 2013, 06:01, edited 7 times in total.

Post #1149 made 13 years ago
Nobody mentioned about squeezing the tea bag.

In my case, I think I used too many tea bags, assumed the cube of sugar given me was 10 grams, or something was in the water, or it was a PICNIC! This is my 2nd BIABacus recipe. This one had a normal 'sugar' bill compared to the first. Why did my 'actual' sugar gravity come in much higher than the estimate? Maybe my sugar was 'high grade'...??
BIABacus PR1.3 - Mad Scientist American Rogue Dead Guy Clone-BIAB (1).xls
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Last edited by Mad_Scientist on 20 Mar 2013, 06:36, edited 7 times in total.
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Post #1150 made 13 years ago
PistolPatch wrote:
maevans: Just saw your post. Good advice from Lylo and GR. Maxi-BIAB is a juggle. Please read this post and the summary at the end of this post. They should get you thinking along the most practical lines ;).
so I've gone away and had a think and read the links and think I have got this maxi-biab lark sorted in my head! Could someone tell if there is anything drastically wrong with my thinking below?

So to create a maxi-BIAB recipe with the BIABacus and set a sensible limit for the amount of beer I can make from my pot I need to:

- Plug in the normal recipe & my equipment details
- Set the desired amount into fermenter
- See how much extra water is needed to make the recipe that won't fit into my pot during the mash
- divide that water up as best I can between adding as sparge water (as much as I can), adding to the boil and diluting into the fermenter

However, the above is subject to some practical limits:

- I don't want too insane a grain/water ratio during the mash. One of the links said that c.3KG per 10L of water would be about the max I could get away with in my pot.
- During/Post boil dilutions should be limited to no more than around 30%.

So the practical limitations of my pot and my recipe can be discovered by fiddling with all the entries until I get a recipe that has no more than c. 3KG of grain, and leaves a during/post boil dilution percentage of no more than 30% once I've sparged.

Doing this has led me to make the atatched recipe - anything standing out as obviously wrong/mad? If not, I'll give this a go - I guess as well as learning the theory of this I'll have to work out the practicalities by just doing it!
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Last edited by maevans on 20 Mar 2013, 21:05, edited 7 times in total.

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