Post #901 made 12 years ago
Novaris;
Maybe it is the yeast in the coopers that is more attenuative than 75%?

BYO clone recipe
Another interesting read here.
Basically says it is the yeast that matters! I would be tempted to just forge ahead and see where it finishes.
If it is a special yeast (like brettanomyces), it will attenuate well, and you will end up with a dry (almost like champagne) beer, which i am guessing is what you are looking for? :luck:
Last edited by mally on 29 Jan 2013, 15:45, edited 7 times in total.
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Post #902 made 12 years ago
Hello fellow brewers.
While I'm patiently waiting for Todd's IPA to be ready I'm deciding what beer to make next. Just finishing off a keg of ESB (extract with steeped grains), yummy! Thinking of changing things up a bit with perhaps a blonde (don't tell the girlfriend), since I have most of the ingredients needed.
I downloaded Biabacus (not sure if it's the latest version) & plugged the info into it. I took a guess at the SRM's of the grains from the original recipe. For some reason I can't get the IBU's to work in the hops field. Not sure what the AA is with my Willamette, not marked & had them for a while.
The total SRM for the recipe is 5 & the total IBU is 20.

Thanks for any help & have a great day.
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Post #903 made 12 years ago
Strengthnhealth wrote:Hello fellow brewers.
While I'm patiently waiting for Todd's IPA to be ready I'm deciding what beer to make next. Just finishing off a keg of ESB (extract with steeped grains), yummy! Thinking of changing things up a bit with perhaps a blonde (don't tell the girlfriend), since I have most of the ingredients needed.
I downloaded Biabacus (not sure if it's the latest version) & plugged the info into it. I took a guess at the SRM's of the grains from the original recipe. For some reason I can't get the IBU's to work in the hops field. Not sure what the AA is with my Willamette, not marked & had them for a while.
The total SRM for the recipe is 5 & the total IBU is 20.

Thanks for any help & have a great day.
This file is password protected ?? well it is when I down load it :headhit: can you repost with an accessable copy I can look at ?

EDIT: We are on version PR1.2 are we not. I'm confused :headhit: :headhit: :sneak: someone put me straight :lol: please :pray:
Last edited by Yeasty on 02 Feb 2013, 00:33, edited 7 times in total.
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Post #907 made 12 years ago
File attached.

For the hop section to work you need to add a EOBV-A figure into section D. For Jamils recipes he uses 22.7L. I also changed the VIF figure in section B to 20.8. This reflects Jamils recipe design volumes from his book, which I would think he would use for all his recipes.

For reference they are.

End of boil Volume (EOBV-A) 22.7L
Volume into Fermenter (VIF) 20.8L
Volume into packaging (VIP) 18.9L

So if you see another JZ recipe you fancy use the above figures and you will be ok.

:luck:

Yeasty
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Post #908 made 12 years ago
Thanks Yeasty.
All the volume # are from his book, not the link I supplied with the recipe? I looked for the others but the only one I could find with the link was the 19 L.
I just finished making a starter for the Wyeast 1056 & will start the batch tomorrow morning.
Thanks again.

Post #909 made 12 years ago
Brew day done. Went much smother than the 1st one. LOL. Can't wait to taste these bad boys & running low on beer. I decided to forgo the secondary on these batches & leave them on the yeast cake for the whole fermentation.
If your volumes are a little low do you top them up & if so when is the best time?

Post #910 made 12 years ago
S&H,

Good man! For a beer like that and 1056, I keep my fermentation low for the first 7 days (15C if you can) and then let it ride up to say 20C or higher for the next 7 days. That's an easy schedule for me and keeps flavours 'crisp'.

Dilutions are always best done as early as possible. In other words, boil start is best. You're into fermentation though now so are best to wait until it is finished. You'll need to boil and cool some water as you are adding late in the cycle. If you are bottling, you might be able to add your priming sugar to that boil and add it to the priming bucket. If you do this, do it as close as possible to bottling time and cool it quickly.

;)
PP
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Post #911 made 12 years ago
The following post relates to a maxi-BIAB question that Joco asked here.

Joco, I've attached the BIABacus file set-up I mentioned in the other thread at the end of this post. Thanks for reading those posts I linked in the other thread. I'm glad they made some sense.

Here's the things to note in the file below...

I've made a few minor corrections to the original recipe. For example, whirfloc should be added at 5 mins before boil end, not 10. Also increased mash out temp by a tad as 78C is fine. There's also no need to mash out for any length of time with BIAB so I set the mash out time to 1 min.

I have also in Sections G and H made the assumption that you will use advanced trub management in the form of a hop sock during the boil and a secondary fermentor or bottling bucket. There are advantages and disadvantages to the latter so bear that in mind.

Maxi-BIAB Adjuting

From those posts I linked and your reply in the other thread, I think you've understood my logic at avoiding sparging when possible. This means we try and dilute as early as possible in the brew cycle without over-flowing the kettle.

I can't remember if those links I gave you talked about the 'maxi-BIAB juggle' but that's what maxi-BIAB is. We are juggling time, effort, money and recipe integrity to try and get more volume from our kettle.

If you look at Section W, you'll see I have gone 7, 6 and 3 litres in dilutions. (I've also put those numbers in the checklist to the right of Section W so you can do some playing around.)

See how the 6 litres in 'Water Added During the Boil' closely matches your evaporation rate in Section K? That's often the easiest number to put in first when maxi-BIAB adjusting.

Then what I did was started playing with 'Water Added Before the Boil' and 'Water Added to Fermentor'. What I was dong here is waiting for all red warnings to disappear. This means that 'Mash Volume' and Volume into Kettle (VIK)' in Section K are at manageable levels.

It ends up that 7, 6 and 3 in Section W gets you your Desired Volume into Fermentor (VIF) of 23 L but...

Do I like what I have done?

Once you get the volumes working, the next thing to do is look at the cost and recipe integrity.

On the cost, you'll see in the current file, the recipe requires a grain bill of 7175 grams (see right hand side of Section C). If your kettle was bigger and you could full-volume mash, that grain bill would drop to 5526 grams. You can see this by deleting the 7, 6 and 3 from Section W. (As a matter of interest, you'll also see a red warning pop up under Sectioin B.)

When I see such a large discrepancy, we know that our maxi-BIAB adjustments are quite large and are affecting our 'Efficiency into Kettle' considerably. In this case by 63.7 versus 82.7% EIK and EOBE.

So, not only is the brew costing us more in grain (and hops to some extent), it is also probably going to affect our recipe integrity to some degree. The more you vary from the original recipe's EIK, the more likely you are to get a taste discrepancy.

I think this one is doable though.

A stout is always going to be a robust recipe I think, so, if you are happy to wear the increased grain and hop cost, go for it. Nothing really worries me with the figures in the file below.

If you are not happy with the increased cost, then there are many compromises in between. They will however all involve you lowering your VIF in Section B and doing more juggling. (For example, if you want to full-volume mash, you'll be down to a VIF of somewhere between 13 and 14 litres before red warnings disappear.)

This is not an easy area Joco and English is not your native tongue so please let me know if anything above is unclear. I have no second language and am always amazed at people like yourself who communicate so well.

:salute:
PP
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Post #912 made 12 years ago
Thank you PP, that makes perfectly good sense, your explanations is as good and thorough as usual!

I've been playing around with the numbers and will be doing it for a day or two before I decide what to do with the volumes.

I might cut down the wif (hehe autocorrect wanted it to be wife, I guess she don't want that) to about 20 l and also dunk sparge 5 litres. I guess that it's a good compromise in the juggle.



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Post #913 made 12 years ago
Joco wrote:I've been playing around with the numbers and will be doing it for a day or to before I decide what to do with the volumes.

I might cut down the wif (hehe autocorrect wanted it to be wife, I guess she don't want that) to about 20 l and also dunk sparge 5 litres. I guess that it's a good compromise in the juggle.
Lol at the expense of Mrs Joco :lol:.

That's the perfect reply Joco :salute:. I didn't spend enough time doing the juggle to cover every possibility as there are simply too many.

If you are prepared to go with a Desired VIF (not WIFE :P) of 20 litres, then try 'Water Added During Boil' of 5 L. Now experiment between adding 5 L as 'Water Used in a Sparge' and the alternative of adding those 5 L as 'Water Added Before the Boil'.

The question then becomes, "Should I buy 5,417 grams of grain and avoid the hassle of sparging or buy 5,008 grams of grain and sparge?" Sparging is just a bit more time and effort. There is no right or wrong answer here.

By the way, if possible can you see if you can find out if the original recipe publisher used BeerSmith1? If they did, I'd love to see their .bsm file. It's not important but it would be interesting to at least know what program they were using.

Have fun juggling and, if you get a chance, see if you can put a few 'actual' figures into the BIABacus on brew day.

:peace:
PP
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Post #914 made 12 years ago
I managed to get a screenshot of the authors original recipe, unfortunatley it´s not a full bsm-file, I guess he dont know how to send me one.. I hope that it will give you something that you were looking for (atleast we can give you points for figuring out it was a Beersmith recipe :thumbs: ).

FYI, the swedish word for barley is "Korn" hence the misuse of flaked corn in the original recipe.
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Post #915 made 12 years ago
Hia,

please be patient if I've done something wrong, I'm new to this ;)

could someone cast an eye over what I've inputed into the Biabacus and let me know if there's any howling mistakes in there.

[center]BIABacus 1.0 RECIPE REPORT[/center]
[center]BIAB Recipe Designer, Calculator and Scaler.[/center]
[center](Please visit http://www.biabrewer.info" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; for the latest version.)[/center]
[center]cotleigh tawney - Batch 2[/center]

Recipe Overview

Brewer: cotleigh
Style: Tawney
Source Recipe:British Real Ale, Graham Wheeler

Original Gravity (OG): 1.038
IBU's (Tinseth): 20.9
Bitterness to Gravity Ratio: 0.55
Colour: 7.3 SRM = 14.3 EBC
ABV%: 3.92

Efficiency into Kettle (EIK): 88.9 %
Efficiency into Fermentor (EIF): 80.1 %

Note: This is a Pure BIAB (Full Volume Mash)

Times and Temperatures

Mash: 90 mins at 67 C = 152.6 F
Boil: 90 min
Ferment: 5 days at 18 C = 64.4 F

Volumes & Gravities

Total Water Needed (TWN): 25.31 L = 6.69 G
Volume into Kettle (VIK): 24.65 L = 6.51 G @ 1.028
End of Boil Volume - Ambient (EOBV-A): 17.76 L = 4.69 G @ 1.038
Volume into Fermentor (VIF): 16 L = 4.23 G @ 1.038
Volume into Packaging (VIP): 15.41 L = 4.07 G @ 1.008 assuming apparent attenuation of 80 %

The Grain Bill (Also includes extracts, sugars and adjuncts)

Note: If extracts, sugars or adjuncts are not followed by an exclamation mark, go to http://www.biabrewer.info" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; (needs link)

92.1% CM-2-row pale (2.5 SRM = 4.9 EBC) 2361 grams = 5.21 pounds
7.9% GW-Crystal 40 L (76.1 SRM = 149.9 EBC) 203 grams = 0.45 pounds


The Hop Bill

Based on pellet hops and Tinseth IBUs.

12.7 IBU challenger Flowers (8.1%AA) 10.2 grams = 0.359 ounces at 90 mins
8.2 IBU fuggle Flowers (5.2%AA) 10.2 grams = 0.359 ounces at 90 mins

0 IBU golding Flowers (5.2%AA) 3.1 grams = 0.11 ounces at 0 mins


Mash Steps

Mash Type: Pure BIAB (Full Volume Mash) for 90 mins at 67 C = 152.6 F

Mashout for for 10 mins at 77 C = 170.6 F


Miscellaneous Ingredients


Chilling & Hop Management Methods

Hopsock Used: y

Chilling Method: Immersion Chiller (Employed 0 mins after boil end.)

Fermentation& Conditioning

Fermention: for 5 days at 18 C = 64.4 F
Diacetyl Rest: 3 days at 5 C = 41 F
Secondary Used: n
Crash-Chilled: y
Filtered: n


Special Instructions/Notes on this Beer
Last edited by taff.. on 09 Feb 2013, 03:22, edited 7 times in total.

Post #916 made 12 years ago
I just had a quick look taff and what jumped out at me is that your EIK may be a little opotmistic.Maybe give it a run using somethong around 78% until you dial it in.
AWOL

Post #918 made 12 years ago
Hi Taff

I would rather see the actual Biabacus file as I can relate to that better than the report. I've attached mine ( I'm a GW fan) for you to compare. The only thing that stands out is your IBUs which seem low at 20 and don't match the recipe. Mine match so see if you can figure out whats wrong.

Lylo mentioned the EIK being optimistic, I think otherwise since it is a low OG at 1.038 you are going to get better extraction. I'd leave it as is until you have some brew data for your system and you are more confident with the calculator.

Let me know how you get on,

Yeasty
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Post #919 made 12 years ago
Nice job taff :peace:. Yeasty is the best guy to help you with that recipe. Hold on... I see he's just posted :thumbs:. EIK is fine. Low gravity brew equals high EIK. High gravity brew equals low EIK.

Never get worried about posting your file as well in a post. They don't take up much 'bandwidth'.

Good on you :salute:
Joco wrote:I managed to get a screenshot of the authors original recipe, unfortunatley it´s not a full bsm-file, I guess he dont know how to send me one.. I hope that it will give you something that you were looking for...
Ah! Now things are making a bit more sense.

We can't tell much from the pic he sent you as it has no estimated efficiency figure or volume figures but, what I did notice were the following...

1. Our recipe has 250 grams of wheat which the original recipe doesn't.

2. The weight of the hops was 40 grams but we have 45 for some reason.

These two changes get everything balancing nicely when we assume an End of Boil Volume at Ambient (EOBV-A) in Section D of 20 litres instead of the 23 litres we first came up with *.

The attached file shows how the 'original' recipe looks to me now in the BIABAcus. See how colour, IBU's and the left and right side of the grain bill weights match quite? The latter occurs when I set the efficeincy to 75% which is probably what the original guy used in his profile.

Don't worry about understanding the above. The main thing is...

In your recipe formulation, change the first field in Section D to 20 litres rather than the 23 we had before. (It would be nice to work out why the two discrepancies in the grain and hop bill occurred but they are nothing to worry about too much.)

Nice work on being able to obtain and post the pic Joco :clap:.
PP

* Note that BeerSmith 2 does not have the colour and IBU formula errors I mentioned earlier. These only apply to BS1.
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Post #921 made 12 years ago
Lylo wrote:Sorry Yeasty I didn't notice that OG of 1.038.
What are you saying sorry for :lol: :lol: I only looked into the EIK because you mentioned it and I wondered what it was in my version of the Biabacus recipe. I'd call it "Team work" :shoot:

:thumbs:

Y
Last edited by Yeasty on 09 Feb 2013, 09:24, edited 7 times in total.
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Post #922 made 12 years ago
Cheers folks, thanks for taking the time to look, I didn't know I could upload the whole file, I've done it now.

Yeasty - it looks like I made a mistake in the hops, I'd put in 13, 13, 4 in stead of 16, 16, 6. don't know how that happened :think:

anyhow, I've put that right and the IBU's are still slightly lower than yours but I'll go with that this time.


:thumbs:
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Post #923 made 12 years ago
Morning Taff

Great effort there mate just a couple of things to tweak.

Section C:

You don't need to enter a second OG value if you are keeping the recipe as per the original.

Section D:

Your EOBV-A for GW recipes is the volumes GW quotes in his book, 19,23 or 25. I worked this out some time ago by cross checking against his extract recipes and a bit of maths. I don't know if this is End of boil or End of boil at ambient, Its only 4% different so doesn't matter much. You need to change the 22.7 to 19.

You whirlfloc goes into section F.

Your hop AA% doesn't add up because the source recipe hop AA% values are wrong. GW has a section in his book showing the AA of his hops (on page 21 in my book.)

Challanger = 7.6%
Fuggles = 4.9%
Golding = 5.7%

Your hop AA% values need to be entered under the substitutions heading. Just the AA% needs to be added unless you want to use a different hop or change the addition time.

Diacetyl Rests:

For this you raise the temperature not lower it. The aim is to get the yeast to mop up any diacetyl. I never bother with this when brewing bitters, only when brewing lagers.I'd delete this bit.
JP Linky for more info here.

Change the above and I think you should be good to go.

:peace:

Yeasty
Last edited by Yeasty on 09 Feb 2013, 18:37, edited 7 times in total.
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Post #924 made 12 years ago
I've made the tweaks that you recommend and things become a little bit clearer WRT the ingredient substitutions, thanks :clap:

I've just put the kettle on to warm the mash water, so it's time to weigh out the grain and hops, here goes.....
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Post #925 made 12 years ago
taff.. wrote:I've made the tweaks that you recommend and things become a little bit clearer WRT the ingredient substitutions, thanks :clap:

I've just put the kettle on to warm the mash water, so it's time to weigh out the grain and hops, here goes.....
Don't forget the full post brew report :P With pictures :lol:

:luck:

Yeasty
Last edited by Yeasty on 09 Feb 2013, 20:05, edited 7 times in total.
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