Before I do that
Even though nearly all readers will not read a long post, I think it is extremely important that some things are explained in detail. Some people will read it and some even actually want a long post
Imagine though if I had just typed...
"Don't bother sparging," and provided none of the logic. If I was huhih, I would have totally ignored me because there are literally thousands of posts on the internet telling people who BIAB to sparge because it increases efficiency. It doesn't if your kettle is large enough to handle full-volume mashing.
But why would anyone in their right mind believe me, and many others, if we didn't give an explanation? (I could actually write pages on just this one area of sparging and probably a book on how brewing myths are created and spread
So, detail is often a good thing. Often too much detail is a bad thing. Just like Maxi-BIAB!!!
huhih's question.
Amongst huhih's post was a question, I think, about what sparging actually is. "...didn't fit in the initial mash for so to top-up during the boil. However, I understand this as being sparging."
Bugger! Can't quite work out the question sorry huhih. I think the "for so" bit is a typo or something. Not sure if this helps but any water that doesn't come into contact with the grain is not sparge water. You'd call them dilutions.
Any water that does come into contact with the grain is either strike water (that used in the mash) or sparge water. In full-volume BIAB, these are one and the same.
A Summary
1. If you can full-volume mash then do it. [Go to 7]
2. If you can't full-volume mash, mash with as much of the 'Total Water Needed' as possible. (Don't be silly about this. Leave ample headspace in your kettle.) [Go to 3]
3. Sparging requires a second heat source, two more vessels and more labour. Doing all this will save you grain. The BIABacus can tell you how much grain you will save. In nearly all scenarios, it should be very little saving and can therefore be avoided. [Go to 4]
[You have to make a judgement call here on what your needs are. The Maxi-BIAB guide that currently exists on this site has errors and the pic in this post shows some of the extremes in that guide. It's not a very practical guide but maybe you are prepared to go to those lengths? Notice how some wort is held back from the start of the boil? There are a lot of practical and potential problems in that guide.][Go to 4]
4. If any of the 'Total Water Needed (TWN)' remains, it is best added to the kettle as soon as possible before or during the boil. (This sterilises that water and increases hop utilisation.) [Go to 5]
5. If any of the 'Total Water Needed (TWN)' remains after the boil, this should be added to the fermentor. As a general rule, fermentor top-up water should not be greater than 30%. [Go to 6]
6. If your top-up water is of low quality, you should boil it before adding it to the fermentor. [Go to 7]
7. THE END
