Hello this is going to be my 1st attempt at BIAB. I've got a SQ-14 burner w/windshield and a keggle w/ball lock, sight glass and thermo.
My main dilemma is I can't find anything that tells me about how long to boil (I'm assuming 90mins) but I know what assume means. How much my boil off will be, whats my mash temp, strike water temp,how much trub loss will occur etc... Can someone lead this horse to water so he can drink?
Below is everything I know and or should expect from this recipe
R/
Brian
Briess White Wheat 6lbs 120z
Briess 2-Row brewers malt 4lbs 04oz
Caramel Vienne 0lbs 12oz
Amarillo 1oz @ FWH
Amarillo 1oz @ 30 Mins
Amarillo 1oz @ 15 Mins
Amarillo 1oz @ 5 Mins
Amarillo 1oz @ Dry Hop
SAFBREW WB-06 Wheat Beer
OG- 1.056 - 1.075 (1.066) FG-1.010-1.018 (1.017)
IBU-40-70 (63.1) SRM-6-15 (6.76) ABV-5.50-7.50 (6.42)
Post #2 made 13 years ago
Hi Crypto_Sailor,
I am new to AG & BIAB, so i do not profess to know a great deal. However; i did find "the calculator" invaluable for giving me the info i needed for my first attempt.
Apologies if you already have it. If not, look at the Master Guide section, and you should be able to download it. BTW you will need MS Excel to run it.
Hopefully you will now only need to work out whether to boil for 90 minutes or more/less, and i guess that is something that maybe the original recipe could help with.
Alternatively, there are are many experienced members on here that may be able to help you further.
Good luck
I am new to AG & BIAB, so i do not profess to know a great deal. However; i did find "the calculator" invaluable for giving me the info i needed for my first attempt.
Apologies if you already have it. If not, look at the Master Guide section, and you should be able to download it. BTW you will need MS Excel to run it.
Hopefully you will now only need to work out whether to boil for 90 minutes or more/less, and i guess that is something that maybe the original recipe could help with.
Alternatively, there are are many experienced members on here that may be able to help you further.
Good luck
G B
I spent lots of money on booze, birds and fast cars. The rest I squandered
I've stopped drinking, but only when I'm asleep
I ONCE gave up women and alcohol - it was the worst 20 minutes of my life
I spent lots of money on booze, birds and fast cars. The rest I squandered
I've stopped drinking, but only when I'm asleep
I ONCE gave up women and alcohol - it was the worst 20 minutes of my life
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- SVA Brewer With Over 100 Brews From Great Britain
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BIAB gumballhead 1st attempt
Post #3 made 13 years ago
Mally thanks I've looked at a few different calculators and maybe I need to check them out when I'm not at work. I'm also going to contact brewmasters warehouse where I bought the clone kit from and see I they have any of the info I might need.
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Post #4 made 13 years ago
Hi Crypto..
Mally is right in directing you towards the calculator, have a look through The Master Guide if you haven't got excell it will work with Open office
Unfortunatly you have gone down the route of many a new brewer and bought a recipe kit which you now have to convert to Biabing. I'm not saying this kits are rubbish, its just that you now have to work backwords and they don't always convert exactly so there is always a bit of a compromise which can be confusing to the new brewer.
Saying that I'm sure we can get you sorted. You've said you are contacting the supplier for more info which is a good move. Let us know what they ome back with and we will take it from there.
Yeasty
Mally is right in directing you towards the calculator, have a look through The Master Guide if you haven't got excell it will work with Open office
Unfortunatly you have gone down the route of many a new brewer and bought a recipe kit which you now have to convert to Biabing. I'm not saying this kits are rubbish, its just that you now have to work backwords and they don't always convert exactly so there is always a bit of a compromise which can be confusing to the new brewer.
Saying that I'm sure we can get you sorted. You've said you are contacting the supplier for more info which is a good move. Let us know what they ome back with and we will take it from there.
Yeasty
Last edited by Yeasty on 04 Oct 2012, 23:01, edited 2 times in total.
Why is everyone talking about "Cheese"
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Post #5 made 13 years ago
I threw it into the calculator and used some assumptions and came up with this. If you want to end up with 5 gallons of beer into bottles/keg which is about 20L or 5.3G in the carboy (pushing the limits of a 6gal unless fermcap) you would get about 1.055 starting gravity using exactly what you have and mashing with 9.3 cold gallons of water or what would look like 9.5 gal at ~150F. Assuming your keggle is 15.5G this would work nicely and the mash vol with the grains would be about 10.5Gal. You would have about 6.4Gal after the boil with an assumed evaporation over 90 minutes of 2.35Gal maybe less with a keggle. That gives you 5.3Gal into the carboy after you account for trub using a whirlpool + wirfloc(makes a huge difference). The strike water temp can be figured out depending on your grain temp but around 155-160F is probably where you will need to be.
you can mash at whatever you would like but for this pale ale/IPA I would suggest 150-155 as a good range and use all the hops you have as recommended you would be in the right range per the guidelines you gave. If you want a bit higher starting gravity you could mash with a little bit less water and get less into packaging or you would have to use more grain. You could also use a bit more water but I'll assume your carboy is 6Gal.
Also if you haven't heard the word about thermometers I suggest reading
http://www.biabrewer.info/viewtopic.php ... 83&p=12274
and
http://www.biabrewer.info/viewtopic.php?f=51&t=927
as it is probably the easiest most overlooked way to improve your beer quality for cheap.
you can mash at whatever you would like but for this pale ale/IPA I would suggest 150-155 as a good range and use all the hops you have as recommended you would be in the right range per the guidelines you gave. If you want a bit higher starting gravity you could mash with a little bit less water and get less into packaging or you would have to use more grain. You could also use a bit more water but I'll assume your carboy is 6Gal.
Also if you haven't heard the word about thermometers I suggest reading
http://www.biabrewer.info/viewtopic.php ... 83&p=12274
and
http://www.biabrewer.info/viewtopic.php?f=51&t=927
as it is probably the easiest most overlooked way to improve your beer quality for cheap.
BIAB gumballhead 1st attempt
Post #6 made 13 years ago
Wow thanks a bunch kartoffel I'm prob going to brew Monday since I'll be off work and the wife will be at work! I'll be sure to post and let you guys know how it goes.
And I'll be sure to read the links posted!
R/
Brian
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And I'll be sure to read the links posted!
R/
Brian
Sent from my iPhone 4S using Tapatalk
BIAB gumballhead 1st attempt
Post #7 made 13 years ago
So I contacted brewmasters warehouse and this is the response I receive.Crypto_Sailor wrote:Mally thanks I've looked at a few different calculators and maybe I need to check them out when I'm not at work. I'm also going to contact brewmasters warehouse where I bought the clone kit from and see I they have any of the info I might need.
Sent from my iPhone 4S using Tapatalk
Nothing other than to mash on the high side to make it more fermentable and get it to finish nice and dry.
~Eric
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Last edited by Crypto_Sailor on 09 Oct 2012, 03:11, edited 2 times in total.
Post #8 made 13 years ago
Well thats the biggest load of BS I've ever read..Crypto_Sailor wrote:So I contacted brewmasters warehouse and this is the response I receive.
Nothing other than to mash on the high side to make it more fermentable and get it to finish nice and dry.
~Eric
Last edited by Yeasty on 09 Oct 2012, 03:25, edited 2 times in total.
Why is everyone talking about "Cheese"
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BIAB gumballhead 1st attempt
Post #9 made 13 years ago
Yep and needless to say I might not purchase another kit from them if this is the type of responses I'll receive.Yeasty wrote:Well thats the biggest load of BS I've ever read..Crypto_Sailor wrote:So I contacted brewmasters warehouse and this is the response I receive.
Nothing other than to mash on the high side to make it more fermentable and get it to finish nice and dry.
~Eric
Sent from my iPhone 4S using Tapatalk
Last edited by Crypto_Sailor on 09 Oct 2012, 05:19, edited 2 times in total.
Post #10 made 13 years ago
Classic, I love quality advice from surposed "professionals" I certainly wouldn't be asking them for any more advice anywayYeasty wrote:Well thats the biggest load of BS I've ever read..Crypto_Sailor wrote:So I contacted brewmasters warehouse and this is the response I receive.
Nothing other than to mash on the high side to make it more fermentable and get it to finish nice and dry.
~Eric
Last edited by Aces high on 09 Oct 2012, 06:39, edited 2 times in total.
Post #11 made 13 years ago
Good Day, The Load of BS is Correct, It is wrong.
John Palmer "How to Brew" says.....
"The practical application of this knowledge allows the brewer to customize the wort in terms of its fermentability. A lower mash temperature, less than or equal to 150°F, yields a thinner bodied, drier beer. A higher mash temperature, greater than or equal to 156°F, yields a less fermentable, sweeter beer. This is where a brewer can really fine tune a wort to best produce a particular style of beer."
This is way.
John Palmer "How to Brew" says.....
"The practical application of this knowledge allows the brewer to customize the wort in terms of its fermentability. A lower mash temperature, less than or equal to 150°F, yields a thinner bodied, drier beer. A higher mash temperature, greater than or equal to 156°F, yields a less fermentable, sweeter beer. This is where a brewer can really fine tune a wort to best produce a particular style of beer."
This is way.
Honest Officer, I swear to Drunk, I am Not God.
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Post #12 made 13 years ago
"mash on the high side to make it more fermentable and get it to finish nice and dry"
Last edited by thughes on 09 Oct 2012, 07:24, edited 2 times in total.
WWBBD?
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Post #13 made 13 years ago
Bummer - maybe things have changed there in the last couple years... I always had really great service from brewmasters warehouse (back in 2009-2010). Seemed like good people. Very responsive, happy to adjust their mill for a finer crush...
BIAB gumballhead 1st attempt
Post #14 made 13 years ago
I had no problem placing the order not with having the grains double crushed. Just tried to see if they would provide mash temps, etc.HenryBruer wrote:Bummer - maybe things have changed there in the last couple years... I always had really great service from brewmasters warehouse (back in 2009-2010). Seemed like good people. Very responsive, happy to adjust their mill for a finer crush...
I always give businesses a 2nd chance so I won't rule them out yet. Just will know what to expect next time.
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Last edited by Crypto_Sailor on 10 Oct 2012, 00:19, edited 2 times in total.
Post #15 made 13 years ago
To be fair they should be given the chance to correct there mistake. We've all done it, thought one thing and typed another..
Why is everyone talking about "Cheese"
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Post #16 made 13 years ago
I worked at a retail store when I was younger for many years. Adjusting the mill to a finer crush probably means nothing, most likely. The chances they actually do anything differently is minimal. When customers would ask to have iron pipe threads cut extra deep we would just take extra time and do the exact same cut as the machine was set at. The mills at most LHBS are locked in place with a set screw which is probably held in with some sort thread-adhesive. Even so, a pipe with too deep of threads is dangerous, if its gas pipe, and we knew better so would not listen to the customers requests. I suspect due to human nature the employees at the LHBSs around think they know better, and in a similar way, will just keep the mill set to default. Same thing cutting keys too when people want them cut so the key is not as deep to help negate the effects of worn pins. It would have took 30 minutes to adjust the cut depth because the industrial grade machines are meant to stay precise for longer periods than consumer grade ones would. This meant heavy duty locking systems to keep everything within tolerance. My LHBS has a mill the public can use it its grain room. That one has a metal cover over the adjustment so that customers can't fiddle with it. I bet the mail order customers don't get the employee willing to unbolt the cover to change their crush. They won't even for people in the store. Sorry for all the negativity. Any pictures Crypto_Sailor ?
BIAB gumballhead 1st attempt
Post #17 made 13 years ago
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Last edited by Crypto_Sailor on 10 Oct 2012, 08:28, edited 2 times in total.
BIAB gumballhead 1st attempt
Post #18 made 13 years ago
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Last edited by Crypto_Sailor on 10 Oct 2012, 08:30, edited 2 times in total.
Post #19 made 13 years ago
The first picture looks like they didn't even run the wheat through the mill?
(wheat kernels are smaller than barley kernels and I always set my crush tighter when running wheat through the mill)
(wheat kernels are smaller than barley kernels and I always set my crush tighter when running wheat through the mill)
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Post #20 made 13 years ago
I am preparing for my first mini-biab. I was wondering if the stovetop option would fill the house with a strong smell which raises complaints by non-beer-loving members of the house. I was thinking about doing it on my BBQ plate. Has anyone else done that?
Post #21 made 13 years ago
It will absolutely fill the house with the wonderful aromas of brewing. You've heard of 'acquired tastes'? like coffee - can't stand it until you love it? Brewing is an 'acquired smell'. You must brew inside often until everybody in the house loves the smell. 
This is most quickly accomplished by associating the smell of brewing with other good things like the dinner you just cooked and a spotless kitchen when you're done.
I brewed inside (a lot!) when my son was younger. I could start the mash just before dinner, then mashout and drain after. The ramp up to boiling (which does take a bit longer on the stovetop) happened while I was reading my son to sleep. Then I had the solitude to finish the boil/cleanup after he was asleep. It really worked pretty well - I was brewing once a week at that point.
Sorry, can't help with the BBQ plate question. Any idea about the BTUs?
This is most quickly accomplished by associating the smell of brewing with other good things like the dinner you just cooked and a spotless kitchen when you're done.I brewed inside (a lot!) when my son was younger. I could start the mash just before dinner, then mashout and drain after. The ramp up to boiling (which does take a bit longer on the stovetop) happened while I was reading my son to sleep. Then I had the solitude to finish the boil/cleanup after he was asleep. It really worked pretty well - I was brewing once a week at that point.
Sorry, can't help with the BBQ plate question. Any idea about the BTUs?
Post #22 made 13 years ago
Hi Crypto_SailorCrypto_Sailor wrote:Hello this is going to be my 1st attempt at BIAB. I've got a SQ-14 burner w/windshield and a keggle w/ball lock, sight glass and thermo.
My main dilemma is I can't find anything that tells me about how long to boil (I'm assuming 90mins) but I know what assume means. How much my boil off will be, whats my mash temp, strike water temp,how much trub loss will occur etc... Can someone lead this horse to water so he can drink?
Below is everything I know and or should expect from this recipe
R/
Brian
Briess White Wheat 6lbs 120z
Briess 2-Row brewers malt 4lbs 04oz
Caramel Vienne 0lbs 12oz
Amarillo 1oz @ FWH
Amarillo 1oz @ 30 Mins
Amarillo 1oz @ 15 Mins
Amarillo 1oz @ 5 Mins
Amarillo 1oz @ Dry Hop
SAFBREW WB-06 Wheat Beer
OG- 1.056 - 1.075 (1.066) FG-1.010-1.018 (1.017)
IBU-40-70 (63.1) SRM-6-15 (6.76) ABV-5.50-7.50 (6.42)
Are you still waiting to mash all of these ingredients?
If so, I would be tempted to just continue with "the calculator" volumes (& 90 mins boil). Or do what Kartoffel advised. I would guess the worst that can happen (if all done correctly) is that you will have a great tasting beer that is not that similar to the original recipe. Who knows, it might even be identical or at least close
For future reference, i would be tempted to run recipes/ingredients by the experienced forum members here. At least then you will be armed with info that is close to achieving your goal.
Last edited by mally on 10 Oct 2012, 14:46, edited 2 times in total.
G B
I spent lots of money on booze, birds and fast cars. The rest I squandered
I've stopped drinking, but only when I'm asleep
I ONCE gave up women and alcohol - it was the worst 20 minutes of my life
I spent lots of money on booze, birds and fast cars. The rest I squandered
I've stopped drinking, but only when I'm asleep
I ONCE gave up women and alcohol - it was the worst 20 minutes of my life
-
- SVA Brewer With Over 100 Brews From Great Britain
-
BIAB gumballhead 1st attempt
Post #23 made 13 years ago
Yes Mally only cause it was purchased as a clone kit. But yes next time I'll do a little more research before I pull the trigger on a purchase.mally wrote:Hi Crypto_SailorCrypto_Sailor wrote:Hello this is going to be my 1st attempt at BIAB. I've got a SQ-14 burner w/windshield and a keggle w/ball lock, sight glass and thermo.
My main dilemma is I can't find anything that tells me about how long to boil (I'm assuming 90mins) but I know what assume means. How much my boil off will be, whats my mash temp, strike water temp,how much trub loss will occur etc... Can someone lead this horse to water so he can drink?
Below is everything I know and or should expect from this recipe
R/
Brian
Briess White Wheat 6lbs 120z
Briess 2-Row brewers malt 4lbs 04oz
Caramel Vienne 0lbs 12oz
Amarillo 1oz @ FWH
Amarillo 1oz @ 30 Mins
Amarillo 1oz @ 15 Mins
Amarillo 1oz @ 5 Mins
Amarillo 1oz @ Dry Hop
SAFBREW WB-06 Wheat Beer
OG- 1.056 - 1.075 (1.066) FG-1.010-1.018 (1.017)
IBU-40-70 (63.1) SRM-6-15 (6.76) ABV-5.50-7.50 (6.42)
Are you still waiting to mash all of these ingredients?
If so, I would be tempted to just continue with "the calculator" volumes (& 90 mins boil). Or do what Kartoffel advised. I would guess the worst that can happen (if all done correctly) is that you will have a great tasting beer that is not that similar to the original recipe. Who knows, it might even be identical or at least close
For future reference, i would be tempted to run recipes/ingredients by the experienced forum members here. At least then you will be armed with info that is close to achieving your goal.
R/
Brian
Sent from my iPhone 4S using Tapatalk
Last edited by Crypto_Sailor on 10 Oct 2012, 21:56, edited 2 times in total.
BIAB gumballhead 1st attempt
Post #24 made 13 years ago
Update brewed my gumballhead clone today with the help of a friend. 1st mistake I think we made was put the 1st wort hop in for the full boil. 2nd was we didn't mash out. 3rd was I pitched the yeast then shook the bucket. Other than that everything else seemed close. Pre Boil gravity was 1.039 and beersmith said it should have been 1.038. Overall I feel better about this then I did when I made my 1st and only extract kit.
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Post #25 made 13 years ago
1) FWH hops are supossed to stay in for the duration of the boil
2) mashout really doesn't net you much more then a few gravity points but seeing that 3) you hit your pre-boil gravity I'd say life is good and you had a succesful brew day!
---Todd
2) mashout really doesn't net you much more then a few gravity points but seeing that 3) you hit your pre-boil gravity I'd say life is good and you had a succesful brew day!
---Todd
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