Post #701 made 13 years ago
PistolPatch wrote:So, it's all happening Paudle :P. Congratulations :salute:. That must have been a long brew day but a sensible way to go given the kettle size :peace:. A second kettle and bag or a larger kettle will make life much easier. Hope all went smoothly enough though ;).
I just opened the first bottle yesterday night. It tastes great! Thanks for all your help
Last edited by paudle on 20 Sep 2012, 23:43, edited 9 times in total.

Post #702 made 13 years ago
Thanks for the help Yeasty and PistolPatch!

My porter is now in the fermenter. Everything went pretty smoothly, only 1 small boil over early on. My OG matches the recipe so here's hoping it tastes good at the end.

:drink:

Post #703 made 13 years ago
Hello every one,

I'm trying to move to all grain to make less beer at a time. 20L is just too much of "1 beer". My LHBS is not so good and I have to by grain in 500G, 2KG or 25KG. so I'm trying to get a simple recipe going, using only a single grain.

So here is what my first try is going to be:
SMaSH APA:
http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f12/smash-apa-87816/

I have a 19L steel enamel canning pot and I'm trying to scale to 2KG of grain. The diameter is about 33.5 CM. give or take 1CM

The bottom is domed about 2-3cm in the centre. I.e if I put only 1-2cm of water I get a doughnut shape ring of water. Is it worth manually calibrating the pot or are the values from "The calculator" good enough?

I included my attempts to fill out the forms.

Thank you
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Post #704 made 13 years ago
loonyscientist wrote:Hello every one,

I'm trying to move to all grain to make less beer at a time. 20L is just too much of "1 beer". My LHBS is not so good and I have to by grain in 500G, 2KG or 25KG. so I'm trying to get a simple recipe going, using only a single grain.
I'm going to assume the height of your kettle is about 22cm which with your diameter gives ~19.4L. If you want to use 2Kg of what I assume is 2-row you can make a 1.050 OG beer but it will be very close to the top of the kettle so maybe hold some water back if it looks like its going to overflow for the mash and just add some back for the boil or run hot water through the grain bag (see maxiBIAB) to get a bit better efficiency (shouldn't matter for this recipe).

Here's what I came up with for a brew length of 9L at 1.050 OG

Use your 2kg of grain and have 17.25 liters of strike water which will be about 17.6L once heated up to strike temp as water expands with a rise in temp. I'm going to assume you would like to mash at about 66C so your strike water should be about 68.3C but I would err on the lower end of that for a pale beer like this. Your thermometer is probably inaccurate any way so if you have 3 or so that would be best.
As far as the hops go we have an estimated 47IBU if you use .35oz
(10G) of a 9%aa hop for the 60 and then .5oz(15G) for the 20 and 5 minute addition.

If you want to mash with a little bit less water that would be fine since you would have the hot strike water at 20cm height and with the grain would bring it to about 22cm height which is very close. Once again you could add water back to the boil or pour mashout/sparge water through the grain prior to boil which would be a maxibiab.

The biab boils are 90 minutes and my calculator assumes about 5.6L of boil off leaving you with 11L at the end of the boil which would be about 12.4CM in your kettle. at ambient temp/ after chill if you do that it would appear to be 10.5L or 12Cm in your kettle. not a huge difference but you can see water does shrink as it comes to room temp. The calc assumes you will lose 1.5L to trub and this leaves you with 9L into the fermentation apparatus. Then you will lose some to siphoning and you should end up with 8.33L or so into packaging.
Last edited by kartoffel on 23 Sep 2012, 23:37, edited 9 times in total.

Post #705 made 13 years ago
Hi All

Under duress i have to brew a fruit beer for the missus. It's also gonna be my first BIAB experience having moved from Extract with grains.

I plan on doing a wheat beer as a base and have just bought 1kg of pilsner 2 row and 1kg of wheat malt. I have calculated that this will make me a 2gal batch with a FG of 1048.

Could someone please tell me what volume of water to use in the mash and sparge processes?

And is it as simple as:

mash, sparge, boil (with hop additions), cool, pitch, ferment.

Cheers
Dave

Post #706 made 13 years ago
It's even more simple that that Dave:

mash, boil (with hop additions), cool, pitch, ferment.

Provding you have a proper size kettle, there is no sparge in full-volume BIAB. You can even skip the "cool" step if you use the no-chill method.

---Todd
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Post #708 made 13 years ago
Have you seen the calculator Dave ? how big is your pot ? since its a small batch I assume its gonna be on your cooker hob, check out this section on Mini Biabs
Don't worry mate we'll keep you right. :salute:

Yeasty
Last edited by Yeasty on 24 Sep 2012, 19:11, edited 9 times in total.
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Post #710 made 13 years ago
Ok Dave, I take it you have access to the calculator, let me have the diameter of your pot and I can input a basic recipe into the calculator to get you going.

Yeasty
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Post #711 made 13 years ago
bradfordlad wrote:cheers for that. So just mash in say 3gal of water, remove grain and continue through to the end?
Yeasty and the boys will help with the calculator but I can explain the basic water volume formula:

total water needed = (desired finish volume of beer) + (amount you will boil off) + (amount of water grain will absorb) + (any equipment losses)

* equipment losses such as small mounts left in bottom of kettle after draining, trub left in bottom of fermenter, etc) are usually minimal and can be dialed in as you learn your system, I wouldn't worry about this number too much until you become more advanced...just figure a litre or so to start with.

---Todd
Last edited by thughes on 24 Sep 2012, 20:14, edited 9 times in total.
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Post #712 made 13 years ago
Cheers Todd :)

yeasty...... The diameter of my pan is 17" (45cm)

I think i am getting the hang of the calculator after having read the link you put up regarding the mini-biab. Would be good to check against yours though :)

Post #713 made 13 years ago
This is what i end up with (see attached file)

22.84L of water seems alot for 2Kg of grain. I though a mash had to have the correct ratio?

Or am i reading it wrong?
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Post #714 made 13 years ago
Forget what you have been told about "correct" mash ratios, BIAB blows that myth "out of the water" (pun intended). ;)
Last edited by thughes on 24 Sep 2012, 21:09, edited 9 times in total.
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Post #716 made 13 years ago
Hi Dave

That doesn't look to bad.

Change your gravity to 1.048 in cell B10 if that is what strength you want.
Change the efficiency in B9 to 81% you should acheive more than this but as its wheat and your first go so 81 is a good starting point.

Now change the value in B5 (probably up) until the grain bill in B18 equals 2000g. It will then give you your water volume and more importantly your Mash Volume which is how much space your grain and water combined is going to take up. your kettle needs to be big enough to take it all with abit of space left over for when you pull ya bag.
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Post #717 made 13 years ago
Cheers Yeasty. I get it now. I was getting too worked up on mash ratios i think. Time to stick to just this one forum and not loads of others ;)

Cheers everyone. I'll let you know how it goes!

Post #718 made 13 years ago
Sorry. One more question.

I am gonna add some pureed fruit to the Secondary FV as i said. Is there a formula for how fermentable fruit is and what it will do to the ABV? I want it fruity but not stupidly high alcohol, say no more than 7%

Post #719 made 13 years ago
bradfordlad,

Check this out http://beersmith.com/blog/2010/04/02/br ... rt-1-of-2/ A little knowledge goes a long way!

http://beersmith.com/blog/2010/04/11/br ... rt-2-of-2/
Last edited by BobBrews on 25 Sep 2012, 00:25, edited 9 times in total.
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tap 3 Czech Pilsner
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Pipeline: Mulled Cider 10% ABV

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Post #721 made 13 years ago
[Very nice post above kartoffel. Hope you get some thanks for that one :peace:]
Lylo wrote:I guess I am just saying is "Don't we need a target?"! :dunno:
Yep, you are absolutely right Lylo.

If I was designing a recipe from scratch, I would definitely use the BJCP guidelines. I am thinking they would be based on scientific measurements rather than the formulas we are forced to use.

The main problem occurrs (like with any recipe conversion) when you try to convert the BJCP IBU's (or any IBU's, for that matter) into a recipe. I buggered up the link in my last post here. Have edited it now. There you will see that the exact same recipe can give three totally different IBU predictions depending on the formula used.

So...

Make sure that whatever program/calculator you use to estimate those IBU's given by the BJCP uses the TInseth formula.

Finally, check that the program or calculator you use, matches the IBU's given in The Calculator (or THe BIABacus when it is released) as there are a lot of errors in Tinseth calculations in existing software.

:peace:
PP

P.S. I'm having eyesight problems atm which makes it very difficult to read and write. Apologies to Yeasty and others that I won't be able to help out here for a while. (Yeasty, by the look of his last post, I reckon kartoffel will definitely be able to help out :thumbs:)
Last edited by PistolPatch on 27 Sep 2012, 21:38, edited 9 times in total.
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Post #722 made 13 years ago
Hello

Can someone help or show me what i am missing? Been staring at this for hours now and cant get my head round it!
I have attached 2 screenshots from the maxi-biab calculator.
The first one (of the Maxi-BIAB tab) shows as 30.62L whereas the Mash Volume is 42.97L in the 2nd screenshot (Volumes Tab)

Is this correct or am I missing something obvious?

Cheers
Dave
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Post #723 made 13 years ago
Hi Dave,I'n no Maxi-biab expert at all but it looks to me like you have a maxi calc in the first shot and a full mash calc in the second.
Mash volume refers to the volume you will have after you add the grains to the strike water.This helps to prevent over filling the kettle.
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