Just squeeze the bottle to fill the spout 1/4 full. Full is 5 gallons or 19 liters. I am just thinking that 19-(20) liters is a full bucket? If you want about a quarter bucket 20/4 = 5? It's just approximate? Since you can reuse it you can make a full application and split it up if you want. I think a little too strong a mixture is better than to weak a mixture? Don't worry or get hung up on exact or the most cost effective mixtures. I don't do metric well but 6ml seems a bit low?

look here for a cool conversion chart. http://www.worldwidemetric.com/measurements.html

Beer Drinker wrote:Thanks guys, lots of good tips!

Bob, how much starsan would you use to make 4 litres?
6ml of starsan?

Lee

the manufacturer says 1.5ml StarSan per 1 liter of water.
thats what i do.

shibolet wrote:

Beer Drinker wrote:Thanks guys, lots of good tips!

Bob, how much starsan would you use to make 4 litres?
6ml of starsan?

Lee

the manufacturer says 1.5ml StarSan per 1 liter of water.
thats what i do.

+1 on shibs post.
I've just fired up my calculator and 1.5X4 = 6ml of Starsan in 4L of water is the correct answer!

Thanks Shibolet!

Looking at the instructions! Why didn't I think of that? Oh right, I don't do numbers! Lee, Never ask me anything specific! I deal in "close too's" and "about", "around". Never trust my "numbers"!!!

Bob,
actually the manufacturer doesn't say 1.5ml per liter.
they say: 1 ounce per five gallons or 30ml per 20 liters (which is "close too's" and "about", "around").

but why would i ever make five gallons or 20 liters of sanitizer?
2 liters is plenty for a brew.

(they just want you to use more and buy more)

shibolet wrote:Bob,
actually the manufacturer doesn't say 1.5ml per liter.
they say: 1 ounce per five gallons or 30ml per 20 liters (which is "close too's" and "about", "around").

but why would i ever make five gallons or 20 liters of sanitizer?
2 liters is plenty for a brew.

(they just want you to use more and buy more)

See my post on the bottom of the first page of this thread.

I usually make 20L of Starsan at a time. I keep it in a spare keg and dish it out when I need it.

I splash it around like no-ones business! once used, I put it into a spray bottle for on the fly sanitising!

After a quick calculation, I have enough to make about 1200L! I don't think I'll be using it all in a hurry which is why I am so liberal with it.

HC

I like to fill a 5 gal bucket and use it for dunking larger parts and pumping through my auto siphon.

Beer Drinker wrote:Hi Guys

Nearly there getting all of the equipment - just waiting on my BIAB [which hopefully should arrive soon] and I will be ready to begin.

Have bought the Starsan and PBW as recommended earlier in this thread, as follows [hopefully these are the correct ones];

http://www.the-home-brew-shop.co.uk/aca" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; ... _454g.html
http://www.the-home-brew-shop.co.uk/aca" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; ... _454g.html

Can anybody advise how much starsan to use to no rinse sanitize equipment/fermenter [in metric - grams/litres] and same with the PBW for cleaning? also noticed a lot of warnings on the labels do you have any tips/advise to use these products safely? as not used them before

Thanks for your kind assistance

Lee

Starsan, 1.5ml/L. Buy a baby medicine syringe from a chemist which goes to 5ml. You can then make up 3L with hot water and 4.5ml. I find 3L is pretty much all I need on a brew or ferment day. I refill my starsan spray bottle from the left overs each time I make a new batch

Pbw, I use 30ml ie 1 ounce, whih I measure with an old laundry powder scoop. If I want weak I might use 1 scoop in 20L (1 oz in 5 US gallons) or I might use two if I want it strong. I generally keep the PBW around for a few weeks in a soaking tub (aka a bin) by the laundry door.

Best to use rubber gloves with PBW, but not 100% necessary

Good Day, I am a bit curious... Does anybody leave the bag in the boiler as it goes to full boil????
I mash out at 170F/75C and remove my False bottom, I stir the boil a few times to keep stuff from settling.

Just a thought,

Beer Drinker wrote:Hi Joshua
I intend to take the bag out before boiling the wort but was wondering what to do with the rack
Lee

Tie a bit of string to it and tie the other end to ou pot handle. Then after removing your bag pull on the string to remove your rack.

Oh and I've used a bent cake rack that was square. worked ok for me.

Joshua,

I use a bungee cord around the top of the kettle to keep the bag off the bottom. When I do a mashout I pull down on the bag ends and the bag rises in the kettle keeping it far away from the hot bottom. When (if) I turn the burner off I may lower it back down to keep it (the mash) submerged. So in fact I don't use anything to protect my grain bag from melting. The bungee cord keeps it high enough off the bottom to protect it.

When I first started brewing BIAB I did melt the bag because I let it fall to the bottom during mashout heating! It melted the bag but it didn't leak out any grain. I resewed the bag and I am still using it five years later! I haven't had a problem since. The bungee cord does the trick!

Specifically (finally)! I do leave the bag in the pot while raising the temperature to boiling. I can drain hot water out too dump on top of the mash to stabilize temperatures quickly. Depending on the beer or my mood I may turn the burner down to stay at mashout temperature or slowly go through it? I have been experimenting with adding some grains to the mash at mashout!

I pull the grains and and cake rack out after mash out. A piece of string tied to a handle is the trick

How did you measure your gravities so precisley?

Yep, that's beer.

Good Day BeerMaker,
If you have good Yeast, good wort, and the proper temperature for the yeast....

Your lag time will be less than 3 hours, a full kruasen in about 10-12 hours, and a full drop of kruasen in 24-30Hours.

The Gravity at that time can be 1.020 or less, then, 3 weeks later the gravity can be 1.012 or less!

Just my observations over my last 30 batches.