Post #476 made 13 years ago
Bek I should have mentioned that I use a jiggler and really like it.
AWOL
Post #477 made 13 years ago
Lylo, it was chilled but only for a few hours. Always thought that was plenty of time. So its not an infection? (asks looking hopeful) - i doubt its over carbonated, as i tend to like a slightly flatter beer.
Thanks as always for all the great advice.
Bek
Thanks as always for all the great advice.
Bek
Post #478 made 13 years ago
The girls always liked Lylo better then me. 
WWBBD?
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Post #479 made 13 years ago
Sorry thughes!!
Turns out i cant siphon or read!
So just pretend that message was addressed to you!
Bek
Turns out i cant siphon or read!
So just pretend that message was addressed to you!
Bek
Post #480 made 13 years ago
LOL!
Todd, how many times do I have to tell you? Take your photo down!thughes wrote:The girls always liked Lylo better then me.
Last edited by PistolPatch on 22 Feb 2012, 16:56, edited 9 times in total.
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Post #481 made 13 years ago
jimbobrewer had a question in this post re the scaling of the Schwartzbier (Black Beer) recipe using BeerSmith2.
Okay Jimbo, there's a few problems here so let's have another crack
.
The BeerSmith Sample Recipe
The Beersmith sample recipe should have come from this site but for some reason your recipe has half the roasted barley that it should. I checked with Pat and he said that in all the communications with BeerSmith and the major rush, there may be some erros in the sample recipes and to always use BIABrewer where possible for the source recipe. However, in your scaled recipe, I'm also seeing that it is not matching the original recipe in IBU's. So, I will attach what should be the correct BeerSmith2 sample recipe. Be careful with the sample recipes as it is very easy to accidentally over-write them with changes you don't want.
So, firstly, delete your exisiting BeerSmith2 Sample Recipe for the Schwartz and replace it with the one I have attached here. Your Equipment Profile
You've done a pretty good job here I reckon. I'm going to change a few things here though and I'm going to talk in US measuremanets as I think that is what you want. If you need metric, activate The Converter ADMIN NOTE: Unfortunately the edget being referred to here is no longer available. Please read this post for alternatives. and metric figures will appear on this page. I'm going to give you a profile that matches the latest default BIABrewer figures. This will help until you get a few brews under your belt.
1. I'm changing your specific heat to zero as this is what the setting should be for BIAB.
2. I'm guessing your 15 gallon pot is goping to have a diameter of around 16.4 " and therefore we'll estimate that the evfaporation rate will be 1.52 gal/hr.
3. I'm leaving your Volume into Fermentor (what BeerSmith calls batch size but not necessarilly what many BeerSmith users mean) to 5.5 gal.
4. I'm increasing your boil time to 90 minutes as it is a safer boil time and matches the original recipe. (Don't use BeerSmith to change boil times in the design view. Your scaling will be incorrect.)
5. I'm setting your Loss to Trub and Chiller to 0.91 gallons and your fermentor loss to 0.41 gallons.
6. The BIABacus (a more advanced version of The Calculator not available yet) is telling me that your efficiency into kettle for a 1.050 gravity brew and with the settings above will be around 83.5% whilst your efficiency into kettle (what BeerSmith calls brewhouse efficiency but not necessarilly what many BeerSmith users mean) will be around 71.6%.
I have attached this new equipment profile below. Import it into your equipment profiles. Scaling the Recipe
You now need to open up the BeerSmith 2 Sample Recipe - Schwarzbier Lager (Black Beer Ale) - the one I attached above. Click on 'Scale Recipe', then click on 'Pot (18.5 Gal/70 L) and Cooler (9.5 Gal/40) - All Grain'. From the drop-down list, select 'Jimbo's 15 US Gal Pot - BIAB' and press OK. Then press OK again. You should get the same as the 'Jimbo' recipe as I have attached below. Make sure you save your scaled recipe under a different name so as you can compare the two. If you have a read through BeerSmith2 Guide for BIABrewers and all the links there, you'll see that it is quite difficult to learn how to drive BeerSmith2 without making errors. You also really need to set up several different equipment profiles. For example, a high gravity brew requires a different pofile from a low gravity brew. A 90 minute brew requires a different profile than a 60 minute brew etc, etc. Setting up a correct equipment profile is not easy. In fact, I use the calculator to set them up. Scaling hops of different AA%'s is also time-consuming in BeerSmith. So, make sure you check anything you scale in BeerSmith2 against the Calculator and make sure the numbers you get are in the same ballpark. The Calculator requires no equipment profiles or repeated fiddling with hop quantities, just the changing of a few numbers.
Let me know if you have any questions Jimbo
,
PP
Okay Jimbo, there's a few problems here so let's have another crack
.The BeerSmith Sample Recipe
The Beersmith sample recipe should have come from this site but for some reason your recipe has half the roasted barley that it should. I checked with Pat and he said that in all the communications with BeerSmith and the major rush, there may be some erros in the sample recipes and to always use BIABrewer where possible for the source recipe. However, in your scaled recipe, I'm also seeing that it is not matching the original recipe in IBU's. So, I will attach what should be the correct BeerSmith2 sample recipe. Be careful with the sample recipes as it is very easy to accidentally over-write them with changes you don't want.
So, firstly, delete your exisiting BeerSmith2 Sample Recipe for the Schwartz and replace it with the one I have attached here. Your Equipment Profile
You've done a pretty good job here I reckon. I'm going to change a few things here though and I'm going to talk in US measuremanets as I think that is what you want. If you need metric, activate The Converter ADMIN NOTE: Unfortunately the edget being referred to here is no longer available. Please read this post for alternatives. and metric figures will appear on this page. I'm going to give you a profile that matches the latest default BIABrewer figures. This will help until you get a few brews under your belt.
1. I'm changing your specific heat to zero as this is what the setting should be for BIAB.
2. I'm guessing your 15 gallon pot is goping to have a diameter of around 16.4 " and therefore we'll estimate that the evfaporation rate will be 1.52 gal/hr.
3. I'm leaving your Volume into Fermentor (what BeerSmith calls batch size but not necessarilly what many BeerSmith users mean) to 5.5 gal.
4. I'm increasing your boil time to 90 minutes as it is a safer boil time and matches the original recipe. (Don't use BeerSmith to change boil times in the design view. Your scaling will be incorrect.)
5. I'm setting your Loss to Trub and Chiller to 0.91 gallons and your fermentor loss to 0.41 gallons.
6. The BIABacus (a more advanced version of The Calculator not available yet) is telling me that your efficiency into kettle for a 1.050 gravity brew and with the settings above will be around 83.5% whilst your efficiency into kettle (what BeerSmith calls brewhouse efficiency but not necessarilly what many BeerSmith users mean) will be around 71.6%.
I have attached this new equipment profile below. Import it into your equipment profiles. Scaling the Recipe
You now need to open up the BeerSmith 2 Sample Recipe - Schwarzbier Lager (Black Beer Ale) - the one I attached above. Click on 'Scale Recipe', then click on 'Pot (18.5 Gal/70 L) and Cooler (9.5 Gal/40) - All Grain'. From the drop-down list, select 'Jimbo's 15 US Gal Pot - BIAB' and press OK. Then press OK again. You should get the same as the 'Jimbo' recipe as I have attached below. Make sure you save your scaled recipe under a different name so as you can compare the two. If you have a read through BeerSmith2 Guide for BIABrewers and all the links there, you'll see that it is quite difficult to learn how to drive BeerSmith2 without making errors. You also really need to set up several different equipment profiles. For example, a high gravity brew requires a different pofile from a low gravity brew. A 90 minute brew requires a different profile than a 60 minute brew etc, etc. Setting up a correct equipment profile is not easy. In fact, I use the calculator to set them up. Scaling hops of different AA%'s is also time-consuming in BeerSmith. So, make sure you check anything you scale in BeerSmith2 against the Calculator and make sure the numbers you get are in the same ballpark. The Calculator requires no equipment profiles or repeated fiddling with hop quantities, just the changing of a few numbers.
Let me know if you have any questions Jimbo
,PP
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Last edited by PistolPatch on 03 Mar 2012, 17:37, edited 9 times in total.
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Post #482 made 13 years ago
When I open the recipe in Beersmith in Design tab, under the ingredients,there is a Style Guide Comparison bar chart colored red,yellow, green, yellow, and red. Once I change the Equipment to my 15 gallon pot then the Estimated Original Gravity is in the red far right at 1.058. Bitterness and color are within the green zone. The Estimated ABV is in the red far right at 5.7%. Under that is Profiles for Mash, Carbonation, and Aging. Under Mash I selected BIAB, Full Body.PistolPatch wrote:
Hello PP,
Thanks for the work on my Beersmith recipe. I made a change on #2 below.
1. I'm changing your specific heat to zero as this is what the setting should be for BIAB.
2. I'm guessing your 15 gallon pot is goping to have a diameter of around 16.4 " and therefore we'll estimate that the evfaporation rate will be 1.52 gal/hr.
I have an 18 inch diameter pot so I used Calculator and it gives me an evaporation rate of 1.85g/hour. I put this number into my equipment profile in Beersmith. Does everything else stay the same in equipment profile?
3. I'm leaving your Volume into Fermentor (what BeerSmith calls batch size but not necessarilly what many BeerSmith users mean) to 5.5 gal.
4. I'm increasing your boil time to 90 minutes as it is a safer boil time and matches the original recipe. (Don't use BeerSmith to change boil times in the design view. Your scaling will be incorrect.)
5. I'm setting your Loss to Trub and Chiller to 0.91 gallons and your fermentor loss to 0.41 gallons.
6. The BIABacus (a more advanced version of The Calculator not available yet) is telling me that your efficiency into kettle for a 1.050 gravity brew and with the settings above will be around 83.5% whilst your efficiency into kettle (what BeerSmith calls brewhouse efficiency but not necessarilly what many BeerSmith users mean) will be around 71.6%.
I have attached this new equipment profile below. Import it into your equipment profiles. Scaling the Recipe
You now need to open up the BeerSmith 2 Sample Recipe - Schwarzbier Lager (Black Beer Ale) - the one I attached above. Click on 'Scale Recipe', then click on 'Pot (18.5 Gal/70 L) and Cooler (9.5 Gal/40) - All Grain'. From the drop-down list, select 'Jimbo's 15 US Gal Pot - BIAB' and press OK. Then press OK again. You should get the same as the 'Jimbo' recipe as I have attached below. Make sure you save your scaled recipe under a different name so as you can compare the two.
If I click on Adj Gravity, It seems I can bring down the Gravity into the green zone. This is the beauty of Beersmith if I can tweak all these settings and the ingredients list changes accordingly.
Some people on the forums said they like to cut out the roasted barley and replace it with an equal amount of Carafa I or Carafa II. Weight by weight. Can I try this in Beersmith? Instead of 1.8oz of roasted barley I replace it with 1.8oz of Carafa II. Now that would be cool. First I will just try to make a basic Black Beer and see if that comes out ok. Then I'll start to tweak it and compare the differences. But I'm really exited at what the program can do, i.e., substitute grain ,adjust IBU's, OG's, SRM's, and ABV etc. Thanks for all the help. I will be brewing as soon as I can order my ingredients.
Cheers
Jimbo
Last edited by jimbobrewer on 07 Mar 2012, 17:52, edited 9 times in total.
Post #483 made 13 years ago
Hi ya Jimbo,
Changing your evap rate is fine in the equip profile. Everything else can stay the same.
Everything should be in green in the Style Guide Comparison Chart. I'd say what you have done is just changed the equipment to your equipment instead of scaling it to your equipment. This is one of the traps. Make sure you scale the recipe according to the procedure I wrote in the last post. Using other methods of changing your recipe (eg Adj Gravity, boil times etc) can cause problems so when scaling a recipe, always use the Scale Recipe button.
If you do this, you'll end up with the recipe I attached in the last post (the last attachment.) Download that and click on it and you'll see everything is in the green.
The carafas are roasted barleys and you can substitute these on your first brew if you like. HAve fun!
PP
Changing your evap rate is fine in the equip profile. Everything else can stay the same.
Everything should be in green in the Style Guide Comparison Chart. I'd say what you have done is just changed the equipment to your equipment instead of scaling it to your equipment. This is one of the traps. Make sure you scale the recipe according to the procedure I wrote in the last post. Using other methods of changing your recipe (eg Adj Gravity, boil times etc) can cause problems so when scaling a recipe, always use the Scale Recipe button.
If you do this, you'll end up with the recipe I attached in the last post (the last attachment.) Download that and click on it and you'll see everything is in the green.
The carafas are roasted barleys and you can substitute these on your first brew if you like. HAve fun!
PP
Last edited by PistolPatch on 07 Mar 2012, 18:29, edited 9 times in total.
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Post #484 made 13 years ago
Thank you PistolPatch,PistolPatch wrote:Hi ya Jimbo,
Changing your evap rate is fine in the equip profile. Everything else can stay the same.
Everything should be in green in the Style Guide Comparison Chart. I'd say what you have done is just changed the equipment to your equipment instead of scaling it to your equipment. This is one of the traps. Make sure you scale the recipe according to the procedure I wrote in the last post. Using other methods of changing your recipe (eg Adj Gravity, boil times etc) can cause problems so when scaling a recipe, always use the Scale Recipe button.
If you do this, you'll end up with the recipe I attached in the last post (the last attachment.) Download that and click on it and you'll see everything is in the green.
The carafas are roasted barleys and you can substitute these on your first brew if you like. HAve fun!
It worked like you said and all is in the green. I'm ready to brew. I set the Profiles for Mash, Carbonation, Aging to BIAB - Full Body.Now I can print out the steps and follow them easily. I heat 40.84 qt of water at 159.9F. Mash for 60 minutes at 156F. Mash out for 10 min at 168F.
Is there an easier program you use to do all this? Mainly for BIAB? Thanks for all your help.
Jimbo.
Last edited by jimbobrewer on 07 Mar 2012, 20:00, edited 9 times in total.
Post #485 made 13 years ago
Glad to see you got it sorted Jimbo 
,
I mash that beer at 66 C so heat your strike water to 68 C and that will get you close. (The medium body profile is slightly higher than this). I recommend doing a 90 minute mash and boil. It's not necessary but with some waters etc, it can prevent a few problems. Your volume of strike water is correct.
There's a group of guys from this site working on software now. It's a very major project but the end result will be great. You can read more on it here.
Cheers Jimbo,
PP
,I mash that beer at 66 C so heat your strike water to 68 C and that will get you close. (The medium body profile is slightly higher than this). I recommend doing a 90 minute mash and boil. It's not necessary but with some waters etc, it can prevent a few problems. Your volume of strike water is correct.
There's a group of guys from this site working on software now. It's a very major project but the end result will be great. You can read more on it here.
Cheers Jimbo,
PP
Last edited by PistolPatch on 07 Mar 2012, 20:55, edited 9 times in total.
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Post #486 made 13 years ago
Hi Guys-
My first BIAB coming up this weekend; I'd appreciate it if someone with experience can look over what I've done here
and let me know how i've managed to cock it up
I attach my calculator.
Im attempting the GW Black Sheep Ale recipe in a 40L buffalo boiler. I've measured the ID as 383mm.
I've chosen a 19l brew length for the simple reason that the calculator says anything bigger will push me out of the 40L
rig and I want to do a full volume sparge for simplicity. Ill be kegging into a cheapo pressure keg which has plenty of room for 23l so guidance here would be appreciated. I've no shortage of ingredients.
not BIAB specific but I'm planning to use White Labs WLP007 dry english ale yeast which is a new one on me; any experiences with that?
My first BIAB coming up this weekend; I'd appreciate it if someone with experience can look over what I've done here
and let me know how i've managed to cock it up
I attach my calculator.
Im attempting the GW Black Sheep Ale recipe in a 40L buffalo boiler. I've measured the ID as 383mm.
I've chosen a 19l brew length for the simple reason that the calculator says anything bigger will push me out of the 40L
rig and I want to do a full volume sparge for simplicity. Ill be kegging into a cheapo pressure keg which has plenty of room for 23l so guidance here would be appreciated. I've no shortage of ingredients.
not BIAB specific but I'm planning to use White Labs WLP007 dry english ale yeast which is a new one on me; any experiences with that?
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Post #487 made 13 years ago
Hi Rens
I'll check this over for you as I've got GW's book and I actually did his Old Perculiar this past weekend. (had to tweak it a bit as I didn't have all the crystal and Chocolate malt for the batch size I wanted.
)
I'll try to get to it today sometime if I get finished with the work stuff
or tonight..
Yeasty
I'll check this over for you as I've got GW's book and I actually did his Old Perculiar this past weekend. (had to tweak it a bit as I didn't have all the crystal and Chocolate malt for the batch size I wanted.
)I'll try to get to it today sometime if I get finished with the work stuff
or tonight.. Yeasty
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Post #489 made 13 years ago
Hi rens
I've used WLP007 towards the end of last year for a porter. It was slow to start fermentation but it did finished the job. It's highly flocculent and my beer was very clear. The beer did improve with age - it was much better at 6 weeks than at 4 weeks. I don't know if that was due to the yeast characteristics!
B
I've used WLP007 towards the end of last year for a porter. It was slow to start fermentation but it did finished the job. It's highly flocculent and my beer was very clear. The beer did improve with age - it was much better at 6 weeks than at 4 weeks. I don't know if that was due to the yeast characteristics!
B
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Post #490 made 13 years ago
Looks like Yeasty is looking after you rens. You're in great hands!
I had a very quick look and I think you have put all the numbers in correctly. Good on you. With this gravity brew, a 90 minute boil and your evap rate, I think you can change your efficiency into kettle from 79% to 83.5%. It will be a better figure to work from.
PP
I had a very quick look and I think you have put all the numbers in correctly. Good on you. With this gravity brew, a 90 minute boil and your evap rate, I think you can change your efficiency into kettle from 79% to 83.5%. It will be a better figure to work from.
PP
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Post #491 made 13 years ago
Hi rens
Not bad for a first effort, there are a couple of mistakes if you could call them that. They are really the result of different brewers doing things different ways. This is the way I scale new recipes it may be long winded but I find it highlights mistakes/errors I'll try to explain as I go along,
The first thing is to set your OG and efficiency along with the kettle details. You have done the OG and kettle so I will just change the efficiency to 75% which is what GW works to (don't worry we will adjust it later). Now we need to look at volumes.
GW's volume figures are End Of Boil Volumes (EOBV) so keeping to your original plan we'll use GW's 19L recipe. As you have entered 19 into cell B5 you will see that the figure in cell B11 is 23.94. This needs to be reduced to 19 to match GW, so by playing about with the B5 figure you will see that you can alter the value in cell B11. Entering 15.08 sets the EOBV to 19..
That's all on the volumes sheet for now, I now moved on to the grain bill.
You have entered all the grains and GW's weights correctly and the calculator has formulated the scaled weights.
You will see a difference between the original and scaled weights. This is because GW used an extraction figure of 300 in his calculations and the calc uses 307 plus there is a rounding error related to the OG calcs. Don't worry things are good.
Thats the grains sorted now for the hops. This is often the most difficult part as there is no standard method as you will see. It may also get a bit complicated, you might want to open your original spread sheet and follow what I have done above then tackle the hops as per below.
First thing is to enter the recipe EOBV figure into Cell E8 which is 19L then enter all the hop details which again you have done correctly. You have also entered the same AA% on the scaled side which is also the right thing to do at this stage.
The recipe EBU (or IBU they are both the same) is 36. You will see that the calculator gave us 43.4
The reason for this is 2 fold.
1. The calculator uses an average of wort gravity for its calculations, and is more accurate if IBU's are entered in E11 to E17
2. GW doesn't include his 10 minute additions in his bittering calculation.
What i did was create a column with GW's bittering calculations, this then gave me some numbers to enter in cells E11 to E17.
(note: GW seems to round down his long numbers)
I have kept the EKG Cell E14 blank as per GW's design (entering 0 will give you a 0 scaled amount..try it and see).
This gives you 39.9 IBU's which is probably the true bittering. If you delete the EKG amounts in B14 the IBU's given are 36 so we know we are on the right track.
Nearly there now
So now things are looking good, our grain bill is ok considering the slight differences in formulas and our hops are spot on..
What we need to do next is go back to the volumes sheet and see the max we can get out of our boiler.
The first thing to alter is the efficiency, as per PP's recommendations we will set it at 83.5%. We can now alter the Brew Length cell B5 whilst keeping our eye on Cell B21 to stay within limits of our boiler.
20L gives you 38.4 mash volume which I think is doable..if you think this may be too close reduce your brewlength a tad or you could take out a couple of litres of water before adding your grain then putting it back after the mash.
and lastly don't forget to enter the AA% of your own hops into the cells J11 - J14..
Sorry for the essay
Yeasty
Not bad for a first effort, there are a couple of mistakes if you could call them that. They are really the result of different brewers doing things different ways. This is the way I scale new recipes it may be long winded but I find it highlights mistakes/errors I'll try to explain as I go along,
The first thing is to set your OG and efficiency along with the kettle details. You have done the OG and kettle so I will just change the efficiency to 75% which is what GW works to (don't worry we will adjust it later). Now we need to look at volumes.
GW's volume figures are End Of Boil Volumes (EOBV) so keeping to your original plan we'll use GW's 19L recipe. As you have entered 19 into cell B5 you will see that the figure in cell B11 is 23.94. This needs to be reduced to 19 to match GW, so by playing about with the B5 figure you will see that you can alter the value in cell B11. Entering 15.08 sets the EOBV to 19..
That's all on the volumes sheet for now, I now moved on to the grain bill.
You have entered all the grains and GW's weights correctly and the calculator has formulated the scaled weights.
You will see a difference between the original and scaled weights. This is because GW used an extraction figure of 300 in his calculations and the calc uses 307 plus there is a rounding error related to the OG calcs. Don't worry things are good.
Thats the grains sorted now for the hops. This is often the most difficult part as there is no standard method as you will see. It may also get a bit complicated, you might want to open your original spread sheet and follow what I have done above then tackle the hops as per below.
First thing is to enter the recipe EOBV figure into Cell E8 which is 19L then enter all the hop details which again you have done correctly. You have also entered the same AA% on the scaled side which is also the right thing to do at this stage.
The recipe EBU (or IBU they are both the same) is 36. You will see that the calculator gave us 43.4
The reason for this is 2 fold.1. The calculator uses an average of wort gravity for its calculations, and is more accurate if IBU's are entered in E11 to E17
2. GW doesn't include his 10 minute additions in his bittering calculation.
What i did was create a column with GW's bittering calculations, this then gave me some numbers to enter in cells E11 to E17.
(note: GW seems to round down his long numbers)
I have kept the EKG Cell E14 blank as per GW's design (entering 0 will give you a 0 scaled amount..try it and see).
This gives you 39.9 IBU's which is probably the true bittering. If you delete the EKG amounts in B14 the IBU's given are 36 so we know we are on the right track.
Nearly there now
So now things are looking good, our grain bill is ok considering the slight differences in formulas and our hops are spot on..
What we need to do next is go back to the volumes sheet and see the max we can get out of our boiler.
The first thing to alter is the efficiency, as per PP's recommendations we will set it at 83.5%. We can now alter the Brew Length cell B5 whilst keeping our eye on Cell B21 to stay within limits of our boiler.
20L gives you 38.4 mash volume which I think is doable..if you think this may be too close reduce your brewlength a tad or you could take out a couple of litres of water before adding your grain then putting it back after the mash.
and lastly don't forget to enter the AA% of your own hops into the cells J11 - J14..
Sorry for the essay
Yeasty
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Post #492 made 13 years ago
Yeasty, PP, Lambert; thank you so much. No worries on the essay Yeasty, I followed your explanation and it makes perfect sense....I should be set up well for the next recipe, and I will most certainly revert on how this one goes.
Lambert, thanks for the tip. I generally let them sit at least 4 weeks anyway so should be OK. Im hoping to achieve something close to black sheep, which I love, but less sweet. I guess I should relax!
Rens
Lambert, thanks for the tip. I generally let them sit at least 4 weeks anyway so should be OK. Im hoping to achieve something close to black sheep, which I love, but less sweet. I guess I should relax!
Rens
Post #493 made 13 years ago
Glad it makes sense.. 
I might brew this myself in a couple of weeks, I like GW's BYORAs as being Ales they do ok in a Uk style plastic barrel/keg.
Yeasty
I might brew this myself in a couple of weeks, I like GW's BYORAs as being Ales they do ok in a Uk style plastic barrel/keg.Yeasty
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Use this thread to convert recipes to suit your equipment...
Post #494 made 13 years ago
So, this went well, but not exactly to plan. But ended up with an OG around 41 rather than 46, and pre-boil of 31 rather than 36. It seemed to me that there was less water lost to the grain than planned .....after the boil I had like 27 litres not 25.5. I could have boiled it down more I reckon but had already chilled and was lazy.
I mashed is at strike 69, 67 going in, 65.5 after 90 minutes and then did a mash out going up to 75 over 10 minutes.
I don't think I got the 83.5 planned efficiency. I did this without agitating the mash...just left it for 90mins. I will do this exact recipe again stirring the mash and adding heat to see if that improves efficiency. But not right away as I have a hankering for a Belgian dry, dark abbey ale.
Hopefully the balance with the hops will work out. My hops were lower alpha than GWs so I scaled up, which I guess will end up with more vegetal tastes relative to the IBU. The wort tasted great, at least, and I left it bubbling away merrily
Rens
I mashed is at strike 69, 67 going in, 65.5 after 90 minutes and then did a mash out going up to 75 over 10 minutes.
I don't think I got the 83.5 planned efficiency. I did this without agitating the mash...just left it for 90mins. I will do this exact recipe again stirring the mash and adding heat to see if that improves efficiency. But not right away as I have a hankering for a Belgian dry, dark abbey ale.
Hopefully the balance with the hops will work out. My hops were lower alpha than GWs so I scaled up, which I guess will end up with more vegetal tastes relative to the IBU. The wort tasted great, at least, and I left it bubbling away merrily
Rens
Post #495 made 13 years ago
Hey rens you made beer. 
You hit 80% so thats not to bad..the main thing is not to get to hung up on numbers. It takes a few BIABs to dial in your volumes to match your equipment.
Yeasty
You hit 80% so thats not to bad..the main thing is not to get to hung up on numbers. It takes a few BIABs to dial in your volumes to match your equipment.
Yeasty
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Post #496 made 13 years ago
Good on you rens ,
As Yeasty said, "Don't get hung up on the numbers." A single brew can't tell you too much about your numbers. For example, if your hydrometer was two points out, your efficiency would vary by about 4%.
All you need to do is brew again. Once you get some numbers up your sleeve, they become more like brewing tools rather than brewing gods - much less scary
.
On your next brew, see if you can get a pre-boil volume as well the pre-boil gravity. That way you'll have a nice double check of your post-boil numbers as well as an idea on grain absorption as well as evaporation. Lots of value can be gained from collecting pre and post-boil volumes and gravities.
Collecting three out of four of these on your first brew is great.
PP
,As Yeasty said, "Don't get hung up on the numbers." A single brew can't tell you too much about your numbers. For example, if your hydrometer was two points out, your efficiency would vary by about 4%.
All you need to do is brew again. Once you get some numbers up your sleeve, they become more like brewing tools rather than brewing gods - much less scary
.On your next brew, see if you can get a pre-boil volume as well the pre-boil gravity. That way you'll have a nice double check of your post-boil numbers as well as an idea on grain absorption as well as evaporation. Lots of value can be gained from collecting pre and post-boil volumes and gravities.
Collecting three out of four of these on your first brew is great.
PP
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Post #497 made 13 years ago
Thanks folks. Actually, I did capture all the numbers (water in, post mash, etc.) so I will definitely have good records of this
over time. Habits acquired from being an engineer I guess!
Rens
over time. Habits acquired from being an engineer I guess!
Rens
Post #498 made 13 years ago
I suspected you might have Rens . Good on you! As a matter of interest, what was your water in and pre-boil volume?
. Good on you! As a matter of interest, what was your water in and pre-boil volume?If you have found the above or anything else of value on BIABrewer.info, consider supporting us by getting some BIPs!
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Use this thread to convert recipes to suit your equipment...
Post #499 made 13 years ago
Apologies for the slow response, I've been travelling.
Water in was 35.33 litres measured by weight.
Pre- boil was 34liters, at 1.031 though I might have dropped in another 200ml from late drips from the bag back in, mid boil.
It's tasting quite good now! Aggressively hoppy, but that will smooth out In the keg I reckon. The 007 yeast is giving it a nice dry finish. It's down to about 1.014 and still working.
Water in was 35.33 litres measured by weight.
Pre- boil was 34liters, at 1.031 though I might have dropped in another 200ml from late drips from the bag back in, mid boil.
It's tasting quite good now! Aggressively hoppy, but that will smooth out In the keg I reckon. The 007 yeast is giving it a nice dry finish. It's down to about 1.014 and still working.
Post #500 made 13 years ago
Rens, thanks for that.
Haven't had much time the last week but have just had another look at your last three posts and here's a few things to consider...
There's one dodgy bit of the Calculator. All the volumes are based on the temperature at ambient. But down the bottom it implies the opposite on some numbers. I didn't even notice this ambiguity until a few weeks ago. So, if you measure hot, you need to multiply the volume you get by 0.96 to bring it back to the temperature at ambient. Put the resulting figure into the Efficiency Calculator sheet to get your efficiency numbers.
So, if you measured both your pre-boil and post-boil volume numbers hot - 34L and 27 L, your true ambient volumes are really 32.64 L and 25.92 L. This would give you 72.9% EIK and 76.6% post-boil efficiency.
If you measured your end of boil volume cold, your post-boil efficiency would be 79.7% instead of 76.6%.
All the above are nothing to worry about but I'm thinking that your efficiency might well be on the low side and there might be a few things you can do before your next brew. Also, it's a shame to let good figures go to waste so it would be great to know if you made any adjustments on your pre-boil volume (multiplied it by 0.96) and whether you measured your post-boil volume prior to chilling or not.
PP
Haven't had much time the last week but have just had another look at your last three posts and here's a few things to consider...
There's one dodgy bit of the Calculator. All the volumes are based on the temperature at ambient. But down the bottom it implies the opposite on some numbers
. I didn't even notice this ambiguity until a few weeks ago. So, if you measure hot, you need to multiply the volume you get by 0.96 to bring it back to the temperature at ambient. Put the resulting figure into the Efficiency Calculator sheet to get your efficiency numbers.So, if you measured both your pre-boil and post-boil volume numbers hot - 34L and 27 L, your true ambient volumes are really 32.64 L and 25.92 L. This would give you 72.9% EIK and 76.6% post-boil efficiency.
If you measured your end of boil volume cold, your post-boil efficiency would be 79.7% instead of 76.6%.
All the above are nothing to worry about but I'm thinking that your efficiency might well be on the low side and there might be a few things you can do before your next brew. Also, it's a shame to let good figures go to waste so it would be great to know if you made any adjustments on your pre-boil volume (multiplied it by 0.96) and whether you measured your post-boil volume prior to chilling or not.
PP
Last edited by PistolPatch on 27 Mar 2012, 18:07, edited 9 times in total.
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