So after doing a few brew kits and not being massively impressed with the taste I though I'd have a go at biab. I've followed the Mini BIAB guide using the NRB's Amarillo pale ale, but substituting the Amarillo for Cascade. I wasn't focusing on quantity just getting a feel for the process. The OG was about there (1051) and the volume looks about right. The wort smells amazing and is fermenting away nicely. So what else could I need to know?
Well, advice here as been good so far so I want to make sure I did a couple of things correctly before I started, and need to double check a few things for later.
I calculated my amount of cascade by simply entering the AA % from the bag of hops and adjusting the weight in the calculator until the IBUs matched the original values for the Amarillo. Wa this assumption correct?
How long is recommended in the fermenter. 2 Weeks?
I will be bottling this brew how should I prime, how long should I secondary ferment and how long to condition?
Many thanks in advance,
Cabbage.
Post #2 made 14 years ago
Great job, congrats! 
I would allow at least 2 weeks in the fermenter and would recommend 3 weeks (if you can stand to be patient), then bottle. Unless you are dry hopping or adding fruit, there really is no need for racking it to a secondary.
As to priming, we need to know the final volume you will be bottling to calculate the amount of priming sugar you will need. Another option (albeit a bit expensive in the long run) is carb tabs. Just drop a few in each bottle as per the instructions:
http://www.homebrewit.com/aisle/p/1984
After I bottle I like to wait a minimum of 3 weeks (at 70F) for beer to carb up and condition a bit. You will have some "fizz" at 1 week but no real carbonation, at 2 weeks you will likely have a good amount of carbonation but the beer will get better with additional time. At 3 weeks you will likely have reached full carb and your beers should be pretty tasty! And remember to chill your bottles for at least 48 hours before opening to allow the CO2 to be absorbed into the beer and the yeast to settle out.
Oh yes, get a few more batches going while you are waiting on this one so that you won't be waiting for beer to condition in the future. Pipeline, baby!!!
---Todd
I would allow at least 2 weeks in the fermenter and would recommend 3 weeks (if you can stand to be patient), then bottle. Unless you are dry hopping or adding fruit, there really is no need for racking it to a secondary.
As to priming, we need to know the final volume you will be bottling to calculate the amount of priming sugar you will need. Another option (albeit a bit expensive in the long run) is carb tabs. Just drop a few in each bottle as per the instructions:
http://www.homebrewit.com/aisle/p/1984
After I bottle I like to wait a minimum of 3 weeks (at 70F) for beer to carb up and condition a bit. You will have some "fizz" at 1 week but no real carbonation, at 2 weeks you will likely have a good amount of carbonation but the beer will get better with additional time. At 3 weeks you will likely have reached full carb and your beers should be pretty tasty! And remember to chill your bottles for at least 48 hours before opening to allow the CO2 to be absorbed into the beer and the yeast to settle out.
Oh yes, get a few more batches going while you are waiting on this one so that you won't be waiting for beer to condition in the future. Pipeline, baby!!!
---Todd
Last edited by thughes on 17 Jan 2012, 03:47, edited 3 times in total.
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Post #3 made 14 years ago
Good Day Cabbage, Well Done, looks like your batch came out very well. Your Hop addition sounds correct, as that is the way it is done.
How long to ferment depends on the Temperature and the yeast.
So the easist way to go, is let it sit for 7-8 days, then check the gravity.
If it is down to 1.015 or so, it is very close to being finished.
Then you can look at clarity, the clearer the beer goes into the bottle, the less "dregs" there will be in the bottle. The beer can be VERY clear and still have enough yeast to bottle.
It is not uncommen to wait 4-5 weeks to bottle ales. Lagers may take twice as much time as ales.
To determine how much sugar to prime with check http://kotmf.com/tools/prime.php it will tell how much sugar to add for what style of beer.
After bottling keep the bottles near 20C - 23C or around 72F for 2 weeks or more, then cool to serving temperatures. Only cool the beer once, or re-warming will restart fermentation and lead to problems.
Your question on using a secondary fermenter is an ongoing discussion around the world, It's up to you, and is a good idea if you only have 1 large fermenter, and a few smaller secondary's.
Hope this helps and your brew is great!
How long to ferment depends on the Temperature and the yeast.
So the easist way to go, is let it sit for 7-8 days, then check the gravity.
If it is down to 1.015 or so, it is very close to being finished.
Then you can look at clarity, the clearer the beer goes into the bottle, the less "dregs" there will be in the bottle. The beer can be VERY clear and still have enough yeast to bottle.
It is not uncommen to wait 4-5 weeks to bottle ales. Lagers may take twice as much time as ales.
To determine how much sugar to prime with check http://kotmf.com/tools/prime.php it will tell how much sugar to add for what style of beer.
After bottling keep the bottles near 20C - 23C or around 72F for 2 weeks or more, then cool to serving temperatures. Only cool the beer once, or re-warming will restart fermentation and lead to problems.
Your question on using a secondary fermenter is an ongoing discussion around the world, It's up to you, and is a good idea if you only have 1 large fermenter, and a few smaller secondary's.
Hope this helps and your brew is great!
Last edited by joshua on 17 Jan 2012, 05:19, edited 1 time in total.
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Post #4 made 14 years ago
Thank you both, I guess I'll avoid touching it for a week or so and then check the clarity and SG and take a view from there on how to proceed.
The calculator for the priming sugar is genius, just what was needed thanks. I'll use the suggested quantity and condition for at least 2 weeks.
As for getting another brew on the go, a possibility - I have enough grain and cascade to do the same recipe again. Was thinking of seeing how this one tuned out first, but that could mean a big gap in beer!
I have 100g of Summit, so could have another go with this hop instead. I'm very interested in Hops and like the idea of hop showcase beers to help me learn how they taste, with a view to making my own recipies.
I'll let you know how this one progresses.
Thanks again.
The calculator for the priming sugar is genius, just what was needed thanks. I'll use the suggested quantity and condition for at least 2 weeks.
As for getting another brew on the go, a possibility - I have enough grain and cascade to do the same recipe again. Was thinking of seeing how this one tuned out first, but that could mean a big gap in beer!
I have 100g of Summit, so could have another go with this hop instead. I'm very interested in Hops and like the idea of hop showcase beers to help me learn how they taste, with a view to making my own recipies.
I'll let you know how this one progresses.
Thanks again.
Post #5 made 14 years ago
Another method for scaling hops is to treat the late hops as grams/L and then adjust the bitterness addition to maintain overall bitterness
Ie, don't change the 20,5 or 0 minute additions, but adjust the 60 minute
Ie, don't change the 20,5 or 0 minute additions, but adjust the 60 minute
Fermenting: -
Cubed: -
Stirplate: -
On Tap: NS Summer Ale III (WY1272), Landlord III (WY1469), Fighter's 70/- II (WY1272), Roast Porter (WY1028), Cider, Soda
Next: Munich Helles III
5/7/12
Cubed: -
Stirplate: -
On Tap: NS Summer Ale III (WY1272), Landlord III (WY1469), Fighter's 70/- II (WY1272), Roast Porter (WY1028), Cider, Soda
Next: Munich Helles III
5/7/12
Post #6 made 14 years ago
Good one Stux, never thought of doing it that way..stux wrote:Another method for scaling hops is to treat the late hops as grams/L and then adjust the bitterness addition to maintain overall bitterness
Ie, don't change the 20,5 or 0 minute additions, but adjust the 60 minute
Last edited by Yeasty on 19 Jan 2012, 19:13, edited 3 times in total.
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Post #7 made 14 years ago
Well took my first SG this morning a week on. Down 1011 already! When I've brewed kits before the krausen has dropped before the fermentation has finished. This time I have about 2- 3mm of yeasty stuff on the top. It doesn't look fine and frothy like krausen I've seen before, it looks more like trub, glossy/dense. The hydrometer sample tastes good, no off smells, and the beer is pretty clear underneath.
I'd like to bottle this one off if fermentation is finished (i'll take another couple of samples over the next 2 days to check)
Any advice, I'm going to wait till later in the week/next weekend to bottle it if the fermentation has finished. Just not sure how to handle the krausen situation.
I'd like to bottle this one off if fermentation is finished (i'll take another couple of samples over the next 2 days to check)
Any advice, I'm going to wait till later in the week/next weekend to bottle it if the fermentation has finished. Just not sure how to handle the krausen situation.
Post #8 made 14 years ago
Good Day Cabbage, From my experience it can be the DRYED kruasen/yeast from the full krausen you had.
Gently, rock the fermenter, if you can, and see if the skum breaks apart and settles. It probably is the top fermenting yeast that meny collect at "FULL" krausen.
You may find the S.G. settles out around 1.008 or less at 10 days post pitching.
It is better to wait for most of the clouds to settle, as you will get less Dregs in the bottles.
Hope this turns out to be the best beer you have ever made!
Gently, rock the fermenter, if you can, and see if the skum breaks apart and settles. It probably is the top fermenting yeast that meny collect at "FULL" krausen.
You may find the S.G. settles out around 1.008 or less at 10 days post pitching.
It is better to wait for most of the clouds to settle, as you will get less Dregs in the bottles.
Hope this turns out to be the best beer you have ever made!
Honest Officer, I swear to Drunk, I am Not God.
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Post #9 made 14 years ago
Well the shake worked, it clumped to gather into large clumps and has now dropped out. Just needed a light encouragement.
Post #10 made 14 years ago
The beer has all now been drunk, and was it has to be said fantastic. the last half a dozen bottles were by far the best. I think I need a little more patience in future!
Second brew same recipe with summit hops is now conditioning in the bottle. Looking at doing a stout next.
Second brew same recipe with summit hops is now conditioning in the bottle. Looking at doing a stout next.
Post #11 made 14 years ago
Good Day, your correct, a few weeks in the bottle to "Age" does make a big difference. That is why a brew often to see how the brew finishes over time.
Honest Officer, I swear to Drunk, I am Not God.
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Post #12 made 14 years ago
I totally agree with that, I had a porter that was very astringent in the first couple of months but now it's like a completely different beer.joshua wrote:Good Day, your correct, a few weeks in the bottle to "Age" does make a big difference. That is why a brew often to see how the brew finishes over time.
It's was my mistake kinda sparging(kinda because my method is a bit strange...) with very hot water
Last edited by kostass on 20 Feb 2012, 03:48, edited 3 times in total.
