I'm sure you get this post once a week so most simple introduction ever - Rob, 22, Birmingham England, moving from partial mash to biab, I hope.
My current setup is a 2 gallon stockpot boil, its done the job until now but I want to move on. Here we can buy a 33 litre boiler for just 60 quid - I want to use this to start biab - I have no qualms with topping up providing I'm not using extract, we have brilliant water.
Someone has recommended that I mash in the boiler using maximum space, then sparge through the grain after to get my boil volume. Does this sound about right? If so, its a perfect solution to what I want to achieve.
I'm all clued up on general mashing, sewing a bag etc, so no worries there. As far as chilling goes, a wort chiller would be fine but could I pour from the boiler tap to the fv to aerate and just pitch the next day?
Thanks in advance from a very excited brewer!
Post #2 made 14 years ago
Good Day RobWalker, Sounds like you want to Maxi-Biab where you can use a 33L kettle to make a 23L Batch check out http://www.biabrewer.info/viewtopic.php?f=89&t=352 it is a way to make great beer on a stove/hotplate/ (or the thing the British call it).
Honest Officer, I swear to Drunk, I am Not God.
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- SVA Brewer With Over 100 Brews From United States of America
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Post #3 made 14 years ago
Are you saying you would chill in the kettle with an immersion chiller then drain through the spigot? If so, this wouldn't be the best practice. Draining chilled wort into a container then letting it sit without yeast allows for an increased possibility of contamination. I'm sure you've read about no-chill methods (and maybe that's what you're talking about). The reason that works so well is because boiling wort is drained into the fv where it sterilizes any bugs. Then, assuming the container isn't opened, no bugs are introduced into the chilled wort and it remains sanitary for quite a long time. By first chilling then draining into the fv, you can't be 100% sure that everything the chilled wort touches is sanitary.robwalker wrote:As far as chilling goes, a wort chiller would be fine but could I pour from the boiler tap to the fv to aerate and just pitch the next day?
Everything else looks good.
Last edited by BrickBrewHaus on 31 Dec 2011, 02:57, edited 3 times in total.
Post #4 made 14 years ago
aah cheers BrickBrewHaus, good to know as I've never chilled before, just let it chill overnight in the bucket or topped up with cold water - not had a problem but hey, needs must! thanks for that 
joshua, is it not possible to achieve good efficiency with a standard sparge step in one 33L vessel? I will read through the maxi-biab stuff you sent me - thanks dude
joshua, is it not possible to achieve good efficiency with a standard sparge step in one 33L vessel? I will read through the maxi-biab stuff you sent me - thanks dude
Post #5 made 14 years ago
Good Day RobWalker, A large collender that can sit in the top of the kettle, can hold the bag open after mashout.
Then a slow pour or spray or Fly sparge can be done with 160F/72C water as much as, or as many times to rinse the grains and top up the boil. The grains can be totally washed out and then boiled down to 27L to leave the trub alone. It takes time and observation, But is worth it for the beer you can make!
Then a slow pour or spray or Fly sparge can be done with 160F/72C water as much as, or as many times to rinse the grains and top up the boil. The grains can be totally washed out and then boiled down to 27L to leave the trub alone. It takes time and observation, But is worth it for the beer you can make!
Honest Officer, I swear to Drunk, I am Not God.
-
- SVA Brewer With Over 100 Brews From United States of America
-
Post #6 made 14 years ago
Yeah, that's the method I'm leaning towards for sure. My friend made a sparger from a 99p washing up bowl and drilled holes it in...sounds very cheap :p
Thanks for the help, I will let you know how I get on!
Thanks for the help, I will let you know how I get on!
